|
nm posted:What do you shoot? Landscapes, architecture, events. Not much into portrait work generally. I really should look at upgrading my tripod, I've just been using a really cheap one up till now.
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 06:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 10:14 |
|
|
I wouldn't bring a 70-300mm to Italy unless I knew I'd use it, but it's a good lens for he money.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 06:56
|
|
|
Also the fixed aperture Sigma is softer than its cheaper twin.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 09:15
|
|
|
I've posted this in the Canon thread but I thought I'd post here as well as it's a little more active. I'm going on a week long trip to Iceland in October and will be looking for a good multi purpose walkaround lens for it. I've finally realised my 18-55 kit lens for my 450d just won't be up to the task, as it's a bit poo poo. I was looking at the 24-105mm 4.0 L but have read that it's not too good unless it's on a full frame body. Is there much truth to this? I really want a good, sturdy, well built lens with this kind of image quality and zoom. If the 24-105 wouldn't be great on my cropped body, does anyone have any other recommendations for a similar kind of lens? I'll be shooting mostly landscapes and architecture, usual Iceland stuff. Budget would be around £500. Edit: Having a quick look around I can see the 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 possibly being alright. It would be good to have a wider angle on it too. Would this be a pretty good choice? Aphex- fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Sep 22, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 11:51
|
|
|
NaDy posted:I've posted this in the Canon thread but I thought I'd post here as well as it's a little more active. The 24-105 is great. On a crop it will be marginally sharper. But it's also not as great a walk around focal length, at a field of view equivalent to 38-162.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 13:25
|
|
|
torgeaux posted:The 24-105 is great. On a crop it will be marginally sharper. But it's also not as great a walk around focal length, at a field of view equivalent to 38-162. Yeah that's the thing I'm not too sure about. I'd probably want a wider focal length for the landscapes. My friend has a 10-22 lens but I don't really want to keep borrowing it all the time when we're out there really.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 14:07
|
|
|
On my Iceland trip, the lens I used 90% of the time was a 70-300 on full frame, and sometimes I took out a 24mm TS-E for landscapes. You'll be happy with the 24-105, just complement it with a Sigma 8-16 or something.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 14:53
|
|
|
Get the ultra wide for Italy because you'll be taking photos of large monuments in small spaces. I never even touched my telephoto when I was there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 16:35
|
|
|
HPL posted:Get the ultra wide for Italy because you'll be taking photos of large monuments in small spaces. I never even touched my telephoto when I was there. Agreed. I can see the use for a long telephoto mostly for nature or lining up monuments / buildings, if that makes sense. One thing to consider is that if you go in historical places, streets may be so narrow that they are in shadow for most of the day. Which means, even if the place is sunny, expect to use wide apertures (bring fast lenses). If you happen to be around Bologna/Firenze drop me a note, always up for a little photo walk. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 16:49
|
|
|
Yeah I've been fortunate to do a lot of travelling with my camera gear and I've found I'm very rarely using glass longer than 35 to 40mm Telephotos do have their place though, especially if you go looking for wildlife or something.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 17:03
|
|
|
Yeah, it's the other way around for Iceland, since there are often interesting mountain peaks, glaciers, and waterfalls in the distance. There are almost no trees in Iceland, so your telephoto shots tend to be conveniently unobstructed. Plus the puffins and poo poo are cool.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 17:16
|
|
|
It's Italy. I don't think there's any unique wildlife there that you couldn't see elsewhere. Also, Firenze was awesome. One of those places you visit once then swear you'll return to. I stayed in the "Room With A View" hotel room when I was there. HPL fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Sep 22, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 17:18
|
|
|
How different the wildlife is in a place is ENTIRELY dependent on where you're coming from. Italy will have mostly the same stuff as the rest of Europe, though there will be plenty of Mediterranean stuff that is very rare north of the Alps. So if you're coming from North America around 80-90% of the birds will be unfamiliar species, though mostly in familiar families. There's probably more commonality between northern Europe (UK & Scandanavia especially) and the northern half of the eastern USA than between northern Europe and southern Italy due to the wide ranges of higher-latitude species and the presence in Italy of lots of species at their northern range limits. Kind of like how Florida and southern Texas get lots of Caribbean or Mesoamerican critters that the rest of North America never sees. That only applies to somebody interested in the wildlife. Binder didn't say anything about birds or wildlife, so this point probably doesn't apply. Still voting "Get the cheaper Sigma ultrawide", push up the ISO a little when you're in those narrow shady streets. And/or use a tripod, if you can - some tourist places seem to hate tripods, I guess they get in the way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 17:27
|
|
|
I just rented the Zeiss 21mm and 135mm for a shoot and they're so, so nice. The 21mm especially—I've never shot with such a lovely wide angle before. At least they're expensive enough that I won't be tempted to buy them. My poor little Nikon AF-D lenses seem so sad in comparison though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 19:24
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:How different the wildlife is in a place is ENTIRELY dependent on where you're coming from. Italy will have mostly the same stuff as the rest of Europe, though there will be plenty of Mediterranean stuff that is very rare north of the Alps. So if you're coming from North America around 80-90% of the birds will be unfamiliar species, though mostly in familiar families. There's probably more commonality between northern Europe (UK & Scandanavia especially) and the northern half of the eastern USA than between northern Europe and southern Italy due to the wide ranges of higher-latitude species and the presence in Italy of lots of species at their northern range limits. Kind of like how Florida and southern Texas get lots of Caribbean or Mesoamerican critters that the rest of North America never sees. Well yes the mainland country is similar to an island, to an extent, being "sealed" up north by the Alps and there are several proper islands as well of course. There are thousands of endemic species. I mentioned animals because there are opportunities to do some "safari" shooting in most regions, especially in the center and north and with the country being so small after all you don't need to travel much to get to them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 10:29
|
|
|
I don't think there is such a thing as the best lens for a specific place. I think whatever you're artistically inclined to use is the best. If you like shooting wide, then get a ultra wide (my vote goes to the sigma 8-16). Some people love shooting with telephoto, some wide, and others are fine with a fixed normal lens. Me, I split my time between ultrawide and telephoto and stay away from the normal range most of the time. If you enjoy shooting wide, shoot wide. The argument could also be made that there are great lenses for specific tasks, however, I think that's dangerous thinking as well. Conventional photography "wisdom" says wide angle is for landscape, telephoto for portraits. I've done some cool portraits on an ultrawide and like Bub, made some awesome landscape shots on a telephoto. Go with whatever your vision tells you and don't worry if you're using the right lens for the job. Sometimes you gotta figure out for yourself what works.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 03:33
|
|
|
I'm hoping this is the right place for this. I've got a Fuji x100 and I'm looking for a cheap-rear end speedlight. I'm pretty new to actually taking pictures, although I've been interested in it for a long time, nothing really clicked for me until I got the Fuji. Anyhow, I'm trying to get into off camera lighting and stuff. Every time I search around online I just end up confusing myself more. From what I can gather though, I don't need anything fancy/TTL (which I think would just limit me to 3 Fuji flashes anyway?). Will any hot shoe mounted speedlight work? Should I get a hot shoe cord or one of the cheaper wireless hot shoe thingies to work with it remotely? Ideally I'd like to get the flash for under $50. I was thinking of something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissin-360TW-Shoe-Mount-Flash-Manual-Filters-/131303480201?pt=Digital_Camera_Flashes&hash=item1e924c1b89 although I'm a bit worried it's going to be huge mounted onto the Fuji, and looking for any other suggestions in general on cheap speedlights to play around with.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 15:07
|
|
|
toadee posted:I'm hoping this is the right place for this. I've got a Fuji x100 and I'm looking for a cheap-rear end speedlight. I'm pretty new to actually taking pictures, although I've been interested in it for a long time, nothing really clicked for me until I got the Fuji. Anyhow, I'm trying to get into off camera lighting and stuff. Every time I search around online I just end up confusing myself more. From what I can gather though, I don't need anything fancy/TTL (which I think would just limit me to 3 Fuji flashes anyway?). Will any hot shoe mounted speedlight work? Should I get a hot shoe cord or one of the cheaper wireless hot shoe thingies to work with it remotely? You are stuck with full manual controls unless you purchase a Fuji flash. I have used Phottix Strato II triggers in Nikon flavor with 95% success (a few misfires here and there) with an SB600/700/800/910 and SB28 without any problems on an X100 and XE1/XE2 and rented XT1. That flash will be huge, sure. It will fire without issue if you buy one made for Nikon. Fuji and Nikon have had a good relationship unofficially.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 16:37
|
|
|
Musket posted:You are stuck with full manual controls unless you purchase a Fuji flash. I have used Phottix Strato II triggers in Nikon flavor with 95% success (a few misfires here and there) with an SB600/700/800/910 and SB28 without any problems on an X100 and XE1/XE2 and rented XT1. That flash will be huge, sure. It will fire without issue if you buy one made for Nikon. Fuji and Nikon have had a good relationship unofficially. This, and if you're going to buy a random Nissen one or something like that, make sure the trigger voltage won't destroy your camera.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 16:39
|
|
|
All of the nikon speedlights are safe trigger voltage and most of them are pretty cheap these days. I use an SB-22 on the GF1 and it's not too lopsided. Only two auto modes but it's cheap and reasonable power for the size. Much bigger and it becomes pretty unweildy. I have used the SB80DX on the GF1 on a tripod for family portraits and it was kind of silly. Those cheap cowboystudio wireless triggers on amazon work great if you don't mind the extra work. Just DON'T leave batteries in them, you'll end up with a leaked mess.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 16:42
|
|
|
So are there any especially cheap Nikon flashes? Looking at them the SB-22 seems quite cheap although it has no tilting head which seemed like a good feature. The SB-600/800/900 look great but are way more than I was looking to spend. drat flashes are confusing as hell.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 17:05
|
|
|
toadee posted:So are there any especially cheap Nikon flashes? Looking at them the SB-22 seems quite cheap although it has no tilting head which seemed like a good feature. The SB-600/800/900 look great but are way more than I was looking to spend. Any knock off that is Nikon compatible will be ok. I went with what I already had on hand since before Mirrorless, I was a Nikon user. The SB600 is worth the money USED. http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Profe...11575184&sr=1-2 seems to have a good recommendation from a few respected users around these parts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 17:13
|
|
|
I have a Nikon SB-700 and a Fuji X100S. Would a flash cord get me TTL with it? If not, why do I see a lot of pictures of this exact setup with a flash cord, when the SB-700 can be triggered remotely with the X100 flash as a commander?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 17:30
|
|
|
404notfound posted:I have a Nikon SB-700 and a Fuji X100S. Would a flash cord get me TTL with it? If not, why do I see a lot of pictures of this exact setup with a flash cord, when the SB-700 can be triggered remotely with the X100 flash as a commander? No a Nikon flash will not get TTL on a Fuji camera.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 20:00
|
|
|
SB80DX is the next best for price/performance if size isn't an issue for you, imo. It's overlooked by many, I think, because it's perceived to be D-TTL only but it's got basically the same extremely variable thyristor modes and output as the current flagship as it was the flagship at the time. Gobs of power, bounce/swivel/zoom, built in bounce card and wide angle diffuser, external batt terminal in the front, pc sync terminal on the side. For ~100USD, it's the best deal in shoe flashes right now. The price difference between it and the 28DX isn't enough to look at the 28. Avoid the 50DX, while fairly cheap, it has no thyristor modes and manual mode is full only. It does make an awesome film TTL flash however, since its EV adjustment isn't behind any menus so it pairs well with older bodies if you'd like TTL fill. Novelty option- SB-15. They are ridiculous cheap, $5-15. You do get swivel for portrait bounce but the whole flash pivots on its mount. I'm sure it made sense to somebody at the time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 20:24
|
|
|
The SB-26, and to a lesser extent the SB-28, are both impossibly good flashes, which sadly people seem to have noticed, so while they aren't as cheap as they once were, they're still a pretty good value if you look around for a good price. Like good to the point where an SB26 is basically an SB800 without TTL metering.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 20:32
|
|
|
SoundMonkey posted:The SB-26, and to a lesser extent the SB-28, are both impossibly good flashes, which sadly people seem to have noticed, so while they aren't as cheap as they once were, they're still a pretty good value if you look around for a good price. I have two SB-26s that I have been using since before the strobist told everyone how cool they are and drove the prices through the roof. Great flashes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 21:22
|
|
|
8th-snype posted:I have two SB-26s that I have been using since before the strobist told everyone how cool they are and drove the prices through the roof. Great flashes. I'm still seeing them for a like $100 CAD pretty routinely which is a good price, if not as good a price as before d-hob hosed it up for everyone.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 22:30
|
|
|
Is there a goon recommended brand for colour filters (i.e. for B&W)? Is there any reason not to get tiffen filters?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 16:05
|
|
|
I prefer the cheapest Hoya filters with HMC coatings, since they're not that much more expensive than Tiffens. If you don't want to get fancy, though, Tiffens are probably fine.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 16:30
|
|
|
nop posted:Is there a goon recommended brand for colour filters (i.e. for B&W)? Is there any reason not to get tiffen filters? If it's a common size like say 52mm, then there's no reason not to buy used good filters. I have a grip of B+W filters and I would be shocked if I paid more than ten or fifteen dollars a piece for them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 16:31
|
|
|
8th-snype posted:If it's a common size like say 52mm, then there's no reason not to buy used good filters. I have a grip of B+W filters and I would be shocked if I paid more than ten or fifteen dollars a piece for them. Hmm $15 filters sound great. Where did you pick up your used stuff? I was looking on keh but either they seemed really expensive or I'm terrible at searching on their new site (probably the latter). I could probably use some larger size filters (say 67 or 72) but 52mm would cover most of my film lenses so I'd probably start there.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 01:29
|
|
|
Is a water spot on a circular polarizer a permanent blemish? I noticed I must have left water on one of my CPs recently and there's a weird spot that won't come off with gentle microfiber cloth rubbing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 01:33
|
|
|
Shouldn't be, try using some lens cleaner. But realistically it won't affect your images unless you're stopped to like f/20 or something.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 02:48
|
|
|
It's a lot easier to buy 77mm filters from the start and then get step-up rings for all of your non-77mm lenses than it is to start on a smaller filter size.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 04:50
|
|
|
Interesting article on the new Samsung NX-1: http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2014/09/27/photokina-interview-samsung-nx1-redefine-pro-performance-quantum-leap-tech Capable of reading out a full 28mp image 240 times per second, or encoding video into H265, gen-locked EVF with 5ms of lag, and some other fun stuff Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Oct 2, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 19:38
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:Interesting article on the new Samsung NX-1: http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2014/09/27/photokina-interview-samsung-nx1-redefine-pro-performance-quantum-leap-tech but can it integrate with my S5 phone and play angry birds?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 19:45
|
|
|
Also apparently they actually had it shooting/saving full 240fps video files during development, to debug their auto-shot feature. They say they didn't release it as a feature because there's no demand for it. I'd think 240fps video would *create* demand. No one wants a free high-speed-camera mode?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 22:21
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:Also apparently they actually had it shooting/saving full 240fps video files during development, to debug their auto-shot feature. They say they didn't release it as a feature because there's no demand for it. If it's as simple as having it turned on.... why not just leave the feature on?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 22:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 10:14 |
|
|
I just got a GoPro 3+ Black (it is lovely!) and one of the factory-recommended settings is 120 fps. I haven't tried it yet, but that should be fun. Twice that fps is getting into "let's spend all day popping balloons" territory.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 22:24
|
|