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Looking to try out zenithal priming on one of my new warjacks for warmachine. Will it look weird next to my other robots if they weren't done this way? Painting red if it matters. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Oct 1, 2014 |
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Oct 1, 2014 21:15
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| # ? May 18, 2024 09:37 |
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It should look fine, besides you need to try out new techniques or your painting skills will never expand.
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Oct 1, 2014 21:36
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having never done zenithal, should I be going black to white, or black to red?
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Oct 1, 2014 22:17
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So while I was working on Slenderman, I painted this Rackham figure, a Cynwäll Elf, Mäelyn, in the space of two evenings.
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Oct 1, 2014 22:51
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My understanding is black to white, then overpaint in thin layers and the effect should be subtle but clear.w00tmonger posted:having never done zenithal, should I be going black to white, or black to red?
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Oct 1, 2014 22:53
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w00tmonger posted:having never done zenithal, should I be going black to white, or black to red? Mix 50/50 dark blue and red then go through to red 50/50 with orange. You can zenith all base coat as opposed to priming.
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Oct 1, 2014 23:20
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thespaceinvader posted:My understanding is black to white, then overpaint in thin layers and the effect should be subtle but clear. That's what I do when I do zenithal priming. The paint goes on more or less at the consistency of a glaze.
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Oct 1, 2014 23:49
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I found a thing at Ikea. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70198031/  This is a cork-lined paper file tray holder thing. It also doubles as a fantastic WIP shelving unit as the shelves are designed to slide out and be removeable, they're lined with cork, and each shelf has about 65mm clearance. It fits in an expedit/kallax cube also. $20
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Oct 2, 2014 04:05
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w00tmonger posted:having never done zenithal, should I be going black to white, or black to red? I did a guide just for you! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&pagenumber=1172&perpage=40#post433075475
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Oct 2, 2014 04:56
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Zenithal is love. I did both zenithal priming and basecoating on my last mini (black to grey to white on the primer, then shadow up to highlight through the airbrush). Advice time! Has anyone worked with resin forgeworld models? I'm planning to hollow out a plague toad to put the LED from a fake candle inside, painting it up like a pumpkin. How much asspain is this likely to be? If I use a dremel, what bit should I be using for most of it?
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Oct 2, 2014 06:14
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I work mostly in resin. Its a lot like plastic, but softer, so you will require less pressure. No idea about the tool however, as all I have is a pin vice.
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Oct 2, 2014 07:10
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dr_ether posted:So while I was working on Slenderman, I painted this Rackham figure, a Cynwäll Elf, Mäelyn, in the space of two evenings. This looks great!
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Oct 2, 2014 09:07
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I'm having a slight issue with paint matching... my main Eldar colour is Vallejo Model Color Dark Sea Blue 70898. Having just bought an airbrush, I decided to grab the equivalent from The Combat Company, Model Air Color Dark Sea Grey 71087. Except, that's not what it is, the bottle says Steel Blue 71087, and is very much a midnight blue as opposed to a blue tinged ocean grey. I've checked around, and the internet seems evenly split over whether or not 71087 is Dark Sea Blue or Steel Blue, with the Vallejo site saying Steel Blue. What gives? Was there a change? Is there actually a model air equivalent, or am I going to have to resort to thinning?
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Oct 2, 2014 10:23
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First paint job in more than a year and a half: Fun to be painting again
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Oct 2, 2014 13:49
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signalnoise posted:I found a thing at Ikea. That's pretty neat! May pick one up, I need SOMETHING to organise my grey mans.
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Oct 2, 2014 14:48
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I use 10 of these, stacked in a 2x5 row to hold my mans.  Without the casters of course. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40196241/#/50264927 They work amazingly, the lower drawrs are tall enough for large figures like Infinity TAGS to stand upright.  
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Oct 2, 2014 16:48
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I'm sure this has been posted here dozens of times but I didn't see it in the OP, what size magnets should I be buying if I'm looking to magnetize my Hordes models?
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Oct 2, 2014 19:07
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The Kvissle looks awesome, but it's $40 here in Australia. WTF Ikea! I might see about making my own somehow. Great product though.
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Oct 2, 2014 19:19
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Spigs posted:I'm sure this has been posted here dozens of times but I didn't see it in the OP, what size magnets should I be buying if I'm looking to magnetize my Hordes models? I assume you refer to beasts that you want to magnetize. 2mm and 3mm magnets did the job for me for modular jacks (Cygnar). Just don't try to magnetize any metal part (like those character kits). Magnets won't hold those.
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Oct 2, 2014 19:44
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WIP on my Newline Designs 20mm General Picton for Waterloo.    Pretty terrible detail on the model, but it painted up pretty nicely. I'm awful at painting horses though. Also, the primer gunked up a bit on the back of the model, but it only really shows on the umbrella. At that size, who'll notice? Right? Right?
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Oct 3, 2014 00:27
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My can of Army Painter black primer is pretty close to done, so on my way home from work tonight I picked up a can of P3 because goons keep talking it up. Holy gently caress, I am done buying any other kind of primer.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:57
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Just started assembling a second hand daemon prince model I have and discovered that someone has filed the poo poo out of it to make the wings fit on... backwards. I was just thinking about how I needed a good green stuff project (except not).
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Oct 3, 2014 03:47
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So everything you've heard about the FoW Open Fire! starter box Shermans is true. I think the trick is to sparingly glue the hull parts together, then mummify it in rubber bands - with a spacer between the treads on the bottom to keep it from pulling the upper hull apart. And periodically nudge everything back into shape. Then it's still going to need some gap filling putty. Sheesh. At least the plastic M4A3 box looks less hostile.
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Oct 3, 2014 04:50
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Just get PSC.
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Oct 3, 2014 07:57
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gently caress those Shermans. I ended up covering them in stowage to hide the gaps.
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Oct 3, 2014 08:36
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I just used clamps and they turned out just fine. Home Depot $1 pony mini clamps are your friend.
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Oct 3, 2014 11:05
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adary posted:First paint job in more than a year and a half: 
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Oct 3, 2014 14:59
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LumberingTroll posted:I use 10 of these, stacked in a 2x5 row to hold my mans. Are you literally Bud Dink from that show Doug
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Oct 3, 2014 15:07
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What are pony clips? My Google results have been... interesting.Forums Terrorist posted:Just get PSC. This is the best approach. The OF boxed set wound up being the best deal (most of Romania's German allied options are there) but PSC is just so much better overall.
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Oct 3, 2014 15:07
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moths posted:What are pony clips? My Google results have been... interesting. Pony Clamps, specific wording is important.
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Oct 3, 2014 15:10
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signalnoise posted:Are you literally Bud Dink from that show Doug I like stuff, what can I say?  You havent seen the other side of the room either... I should do a 360 shot some time.
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Oct 3, 2014 15:19
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Is it possible to make off-red Spirit Hosts work? Disregarding accidentally turning them pink. Or should I just accept that off-blue and off-green are the only colours that work?
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Oct 3, 2014 17:25
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Crosspostin' https://www.krmulticase.com is having an anniversary sale. Buy a bag or whatever, get a card case filled with foam for free.
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Oct 3, 2014 19:35
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Forums Terrorist posted:Just get PSC. This, except for some of their early kits. I know from experience that the Panzer IV kits are a pain in the rear end to assemble, and I've heard the same of the T-34 kit. Not Open Fire horrible, but enough that if I'd ever need more Panzer IV's (I won't), I'd pay extra for the Battlefront ones.
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Oct 3, 2014 20:30
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Presuming folks do a decent amount of painting with Reaper series paints as well, I was curious to hear what anyone thought about the shadow / highlight triad system they've got going on; I was specifically starting to eyeball picking up some of the three-paint sets for different skin tones and the like and was wondering how they handled compared to just tackling shading with flesh washes and highlights with base tones + lighter whites / other colors. I really want to nab Adamantium Black from their line, it looks pretty slick from what I have been checking out.
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Oct 3, 2014 20:50
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GaistHeidegger posted:Presuming folks do a decent amount of painting with Reaper series paints as well, I was curious to hear what anyone thought about the shadow / highlight triad system they've got going on; I was specifically starting to eyeball picking up some of the three-paint sets for different skin tones and the like and was wondering how they handled compared to just tackling shading with flesh washes and highlights with base tones + lighter whites / other colors. I use mostly Reaper. The triad system is great, but my only complaint is that sometimes the 3 colors are a little too close together for the level of contrast I want so I wind up using a darker or lighter color as a final shade/highlight. The skin tones are great though, I find most "flesh" paint to be really bright and cartoony - Bronzed Flesh too orange, Elf Flesh too pink, and so on. Reaper ones are much more realistic and interesting colors and there's dozens of them. I also basically can't live without the Liners and off-whites triad at this point.
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Oct 3, 2014 21:24
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JoshTheStampede posted:I use mostly Reaper. The triad system is great, but my only complaint is that sometimes the 3 colors are a little too close together for the level of contrast I want so I wind up using a darker or lighter color as a final shade/highlight. That's really encouraging and basically fits to a tee the main thing I was mulling over--most flesh tones from other paints feeling like they're a bit cartoony. When going over the reaper paints for olive skin tones and the like they looked really great. Hair colors that aren't red, black or brown are also a bit rough for me yet, so their blonde / blond highlight for instance looked appealing as well. I saw the liners, but wasn't sure about how they're actually used in application--what I gathered was that they were mostly just particularly dark pigments? Would they be pre-laid for darker recesses similar to the black -> white approach to handling eyes?
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Oct 3, 2014 21:29
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GaistHeidegger posted:That's really encouraging and basically fits to a tee the main thing I was mulling over--most flesh tones from other paints feeling like they're a bit cartoony. When going over the reaper paints for olive skin tones and the like they looked really great. Hair colors that aren't red, black or brown are also a bit rough for me yet, so their blonde / blond highlight for instance looked appealing as well. I saw the liners, but wasn't sure about how they're actually used in application--what I gathered was that they were mostly just particularly dark pigments? Would they be pre-laid for darker recesses similar to the black -> white approach to handling eyes? The liners are dark colors with a ton of flow improver and are sort of translucent. They're meant for lining - as in darklining crevices and between armor plates and such. You can do that sort of thing with any paint but the liners just flow nicer and don't require thinning or mediums to behave the way you want it to. I do also use them for eyes, now that you mention it. both for the lining around the eye socket and for painting the pupil since I try to avoid pure white and pure black when doing eyes. I can also attest to their blonde hair triad being good. It's hard to break out of the habit of only looking at colors called skin or flesh when doing skin and only looking at stuff labeled hair to do hair, but Reaper is a good middle step in that process by having a much wider and diverse selection of those.
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Oct 3, 2014 21:35
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JoshTheStampede posted:The liners are dark colors with a ton of flow improver and are sort of translucent. They're meant for lining - as in darklining crevices and between armor plates and such. You can do that sort of thing with any paint but the liners just flow nicer and don't require thinning or mediums to behave the way you want it to. That does sound very handy then. I am putting together an order on Reaper's site and I could swear their paints used to be $3/bottle--did they have a price increase? They're $3.25 apiece now. They also sell the paints as triad sets for $9.85 which seems a little bizarre when buying them separately makes for $9.75. Edit: Whoops, 3.29, so you do save two cents on the triads I suppose. GaistHeidegger fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 21:49
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| # ? May 18, 2024 09:37 |
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GaistHeidegger posted:That does sound very handy then. I am putting together an order on Reaper's site and I could swear their paints used to be $3/bottle--did they have a price increase? They're $3.25 apiece now. They also sell the paints as triad sets for $9.85 which seems a little bizarre when buying them separately makes for $9.75. Yeah, if you are buying from the website you dont really save money on triads - I think they are packaged that way mainly to let retailers have fewer SKUs on the shelves. I'm not sure about price increases - whenever I buy from them I buy enough to get free shipping which usually winds up being 10 or 12 colors.
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Oct 3, 2014 22:05
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