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For what its worth all the radial saws around here are craftsmans going for quite a price in the midwest. Is there a general opinion on ideal compound miter saw size? I'm mostly going to be doing smaller projects so I don't see a good reason to go with a 12" inch beastly dewalt vs a 10 inch or even the 8.5" makitas.
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Oct 4, 2014 19:24
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Sylink posted:For what its worth all the radial saws around here are craftsmans going for quite a price in the midwest. I wouldn't go smaller than 10". People seem to like most all the big brands these days, Dewalt, Makita, Bosch, etc.
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Oct 5, 2014 00:37
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Sylink posted:For what its worth all the radial saws around here are craftsmans going for quite a price in the midwest.
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Oct 5, 2014 01:34
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12" sliding from Harbor Freight
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Oct 5, 2014 01:38
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I should start buying these up, haha. There's an identical Delta 12" RAS for $200 to mine, a half dozen Delta/Craftsman/Dewalt for ~$100 and I know where another MMB is for $50.
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Oct 5, 2014 04:45
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If anyone wants to come pick up my early 60s Craftsman RAS they can have it for free. No stand and a lovely blade but it's got a new Mr. Sawdust table I built for it.
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Oct 5, 2014 05:53
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I like my 12" ridgid slider. I use the extra capacity more than I thought I would. If I had to move it much I think a 10" would be better; mine with its stand weighs about 130 lbs
dyne fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Oct 6, 2014 |
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Oct 6, 2014 04:02
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I'm in the market for a tilecutter, but I'm seeing them priced anywhere from $40 to $600. What's a good price point for a half-decent tilecutter? And what brands are good for a guy like me who's just doing the occasional re-tile?
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Oct 6, 2014 06:56
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I bought one for 65 euros and it's what we used to put up tiles in the kitchen and sauna, works well. After I'm done with the tiling for sure I'm thinking of turning it into a plate sander.
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Oct 6, 2014 07:14
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melon cat posted:I'm in the market for a tilecutter, but I'm seeing them priced anywhere from $40 to $600. What's a good price point for a half-decent tilecutter? And what brands are good for a guy like me who's just doing the occasional re-tile? Usually this depends on A) what your tolerance for bad cuts are, most tile jobs it's really no biggie to toss a few tiles you screwed up on but if you are working with expensive stuff a bad cut could be a $20-100 mistake. Some tile jobs it'd be hard to notice and easy to cover up mistakes, others you'll end up regretting every single mediocre cut you make. It all depends on what you are doing. B) what's your tolerance for making a huge loving mess is. They will all make a mess, some of them will leak like crazy.
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Oct 6, 2014 12:43
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Anubis posted:Usually this depends on A) what your tolerance for bad cuts are, most tile jobs it's really no biggie to toss a few tiles you screwed up on but if you are working with expensive stuff a bad cut could be a $20-100 mistake. Some tile jobs it'd be hard to notice and easy to cover up mistakes, others you'll end up regretting every single mediocre cut you make. It all depends on what you are doing. B) what's your tolerance for making a huge loving mess is. They will all make a mess, some of them will leak like crazy. His Divine Shadow posted:I bought one for 65 euros and it's what we used to put up tiles in the kitchen and sauna, works well. After I'm done with the tiling for sure I'm thinking of turning it into a plate sander. melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Oct 6, 2014 |
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Oct 6, 2014 15:33
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melon cat posted:I was looking at something along the lines of this kind of tile cutter. They seem to be less messy and compact, but there are so many of these that vary in price significantly. I have one of those manual ones and used it for some ceramic tiles, some 4"x6" tiles, and 12x12 sheets of small tiles in a hexagon/square pattern. It worked just fine for both of those - the limiting factor on that job was definitely my lack of skill with tiling. It requires something that breaks cleanly, I'm not sure how well it would do with a natural stone that had any sort of grain to it. There's absolutely no mess though, which is always nice.
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Oct 6, 2014 16:49
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melon cat posted:I was looking at something along the lines of this kind of tile cutter. They seem to be less messy and compact, but there are so many of these that vary in price significantly. The machine called Nutool BT180, I do not think you have it in the states, you'd basically have to look for something equivalent
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Oct 6, 2014 18:34
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captainblastum posted:I'm not sure how well it would do with a natural stone that had any sort of grain to it. I cut some really wild-grained marble tiles with a tile saw a few weeks ago, and it was hard enough to keep them in one piece with that. I wouldn't even want to think about using a scoring tool.
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Oct 6, 2014 23:11
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I ordered that benchdog router table and it was supposed to be delivered today via Amazon. Now the tracking package shows it coming to my state from Indiana, then going back to Indiana and marked as delivered/left at the dock.  
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Oct 8, 2014 02:04
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Probably the best place to ask about snow removal? I'm looking at snow removal options and am debating snow blower vs ATV & plow. I'm looking at houses wayyy up in the mountains of Colorado and some have pretty long and/or steep driveways. At some length it seems like the blower is just too much more difficult and slow and it's worth going the ATV route, anyone have any thoughts on what that cutoff would be from experience? For example one place I'm looking at has a 150ft driveway that gets pretty steep in one spot, it seems like that case would still be manageable in the winter with a higher end large snow blower, maybe tracked or just with chains on tires. My hunch is that anything beyond 200ft or so and it would probably be worth it to just blow $5K or whatever on a used 4WD ATV with a plow. Could also rely on neighbors in some places, but some houses are pretty remote and I'd be on my own to deal with the driveway on my own. Most of the people who live in these areas go with ATV + plow, but they tend to have ATVs for fun or hunting anyway so it's not the only consideration. I don't really care about either of those other ATV benefits and am just interested in having a useable driveway.
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Oct 8, 2014 17:57
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Pryor on Fire posted:Most of the people who live in these areas go with ATV + plow, but they tend to have ATVs for fun or hunting anyway so it's not the only consideration. I don't really care about either of those other ATV benefits and am just interested in having a useable driveway. You will change your mind on the fun thing but anyway. I've never used a snow blower but I used an ATV/plow when I lived in Alaska. The ATV is fun year around but takes up twice the space, snow blowers are cheaper.
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Oct 8, 2014 18:58
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Just get these and put them on your daily driver: 
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Oct 8, 2014 19:22
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Rode ATVs for fun when I was young, wayyy over that phase. More into less powered/polluting forms of having fun outside nowadays. They are only slightly less loving obnoxious than jetskis and snowmobiles so that's a plus if you're into them I guess!
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Oct 8, 2014 19:25
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Pryor on Fire posted:Probably the best place to ask about snow removal? It depends on the specific situation. If there's lots of space to push snow off to the sides, then a plow is fine, and faster than blowing. But keep in mind that you can't stack snow very high with a plow, so if you get a lot of it, you'll need to enlist somebody with a loader to move piles around eventually (the snow will be too crusty to touch with a blower at that point). So if you don't have space, like a long tree-lined driveway or a hilly yard, a blower is the best bet. There are a lot of options there too, from walk-behind for very small areas to garden tractor to compact utility tractor and on up.
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Oct 8, 2014 19:31
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Clearly the most awesome option is an ATV with a blower attachment.
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Oct 8, 2014 20:12
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 Also kinda fun in the snow (Not at all cost effective)
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Oct 8, 2014 20:35
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Pryor on Fire posted:Rode ATVs for fun when I was young, wayyy over that phase. More into less powered/polluting forms of having fun outside nowadays. They are only slightly less loving obnoxious than jetskis and snowmobiles so that's a plus if you're into them I guess! If you think those things are obnoxious then forget about snowblowers, this might be more your speed.  snowblowers are exceptionally obnoxious
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Oct 8, 2014 22:36
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wormil posted:If you think those things are obnoxious then forget about snowblowers, this might be more your speed. Snow Blowers are amazing. Especially the ones that you can bolt to the front of an ATV. Then it's like those little sidewalk clearing trucks, only even more halfassed!
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Oct 9, 2014 01:33
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melon cat posted:Any recommendations for a tile cutter? I just found out that our house's builder decided not to install floor tiles beneath the vanity we're replacing, and the new one we bought has an exposed underside. You never got a good answer on the scraper. When I took up a ton of linoleum and tile, I used this bad boy. http://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-8-in-Wide-Adjustable-Razor-Floor-Scraper-and-Stripper-62909Q/100067461 The replaceable 8" razor blades are super helpful, rather than the larger blades like you linked. I found it was worth it to go through blades quickly because a super sharp blade made it real easy. I just laid ~700 sqft of tile, and borrowed a wet saw like this from a guy at work. http://www.amazon.com/MK-Diamond-157222-MK-170-3-Horsepower/dp/B0000TN120 It was really, really helpful. I also used a tile wheel on an angle grinder for the fiddly cuts (going around doorways, bathrooms, plunge cuts) The wet saw left minimal chipping on the tiles. I laid ceramic and porcelain, and the angle grinder (even with a new wheel) chipped the porcelain tiles to death to where you couldn't have the raw edge visible. Wet saw left a crisp, clean edge on both the ceramic and porcelain. Whatever you do, don't use either of them inside or anywhere you don't want to be covered in tile dust or water. If I were doing a large quantity of tiling again, I would just buy a wet saw like that on Craigslist and resell it a few weeks later once I was finished. You can also rent them or whatever, but then you're in the time crunch space of "got to have it back by 6 or else I owe another $80"
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Oct 9, 2014 07:18
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I used the harbor freight wet saw (borrowed from my father in law) with a better blade for my glass tile install. Worked great.
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Oct 9, 2014 20:51
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I want a stud finder that can accurately find a stud through button board and plaster... does such a tool exist? I've been getting by with a magnet but that's only as good as the drunken Irish guy who nailed up the button board was.
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Oct 9, 2014 22:25
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Sointenly posted:I want a stud finder that can accurately find a stud through button board and plaster... does such a tool exist? The Bosch GMS-120 is about the best one I've used. It's still a stud finder (so it's a piece of crap) but it's like the pretty horse in the glue factory.
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Oct 10, 2014 00:33
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Pryor on Fire posted:Probably the best place to ask about snow removal? Plow truck or Kubota, you choose. ATV's are too light weight to do much good with a heavy snow load, also more time consuming due to the smaller foot print.
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Oct 10, 2014 13:38
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I want to buy this router which seems decently rated and very cheap, and affix it to a homemade (again, cheap), router table. Whats the best way to attach it, given its non standard nature? Since its HF, I'm sure the bolt patterns are not going to be available in a traditional plate. Any recommendations for how to do this so that its easy-ish to change bits, and raise/lower the router? http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horsepower-fixed-base-router-68341-8347.html
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Oct 10, 2014 15:03
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CharlieWhiskey posted:
The bucket can be pretty rough on your sealcoat too  It gets the job done quite fast, though. My plow guy gets through my 300' driveway + turnaround in maybe 10 minutes.My long-term plan: 
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Oct 10, 2014 15:25
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Is that a heated driveway?
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Oct 10, 2014 17:00
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dhrusis posted:I want to buy this router which seems decently rated and very cheap, and affix it to a homemade (again, cheap), router table. My router table is a piece of countertop with the router fixed directly to it using the factory machine screws. I drilled a hole for the bits to poke through. It was meant to be temporary but I'm still using it 10 years later because it just works and no dip in the top. I even bought an insert to make a nicer table but just never bothered. Point being, you can have a fully functioning router table without buying inserts and worrying about bolt patterns. The downside is that I have to remove the router to change bits. To remove it I loosen a locking knob on the router base allowing the router to unscrew, same thing for changing height. Only takes a few seconds. But to answer your question, that HF router looks like a Porter Cable clone and may have the same bolt pattern. If it doesn't, just remove the plastic base and trace the mounting holes on a sheet of paper then make a new base/table insert out of anything you want.
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Oct 10, 2014 17:23
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Motronic posted:The Bosch GMS-120 is about the best one I've used. It's still a stud finder (so it's a piece of crap) but it's like the pretty horse in the glue factory. Have you tested it through plaster? I've been looking at some heavy duty scanners / stud finders and for the most part people say they still blow goats for trying to go through plaster.
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Oct 10, 2014 17:58
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sbyers77 posted:Is that a heated driveway? Yup.
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Oct 10, 2014 19:07
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Zhentar posted:The bucket can be pretty rough on your sealcoat too Not if whoever is plowing for you uses and appropriate bucket. (hint: it should have a rubber scraper on the bottom and should not just be their loose soil bucket)
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Oct 11, 2014 03:34
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wormil posted:My router table is a piece of countertop with the router fixed directly to it using the factory machine screws. I drilled a hole for the bits to poke through. It was meant to be temporary but I'm still using it 10 years later because it just works and no dip in the top. I even bought an insert to make a nicer table but just never bothered. Point being, you can have a fully functioning router table without buying inserts and worrying about bolt patterns. The downside is that I have to remove the router to change bits. To remove it I loosen a locking knob on the router base allowing the router to unscrew, same thing for changing height. Only takes a few seconds. I'll try to take a picture but I was in the Ikea "As Is" section the other day and got a 24"x36" panel that would be perfect for a router table for $5, plus some other panel that's pretty perfect for a potential fence for $2. They had a whole section of surfaced MDF of various of sizes. I'm still sort of regretting that I went for the kreg (fenceless) table that I have now. Though that may change after I use it.
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Oct 11, 2014 05:21
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wormil posted:My router table is a piece of countertop with the router fixed directly to it using the factory machine screws. I drilled a hole for the bits to poke through. It was meant to be temporary but I'm still using it 10 years later because it just works and no dip in the top. I even bought an insert to make a nicer table but just never bothered. Point being, you can have a fully functioning router table without buying inserts and worrying about bolt patterns. The downside is that I have to remove the router to change bits. To remove it I loosen a locking knob on the router base allowing the router to unscrew, same thing for changing height. Only takes a few seconds. So basically if I got that HF router, to bring it up or down I'd need to reach under the table and twist the plastic ring, and to change bits I need to remove the router, use 2 wrenches to remove the bit... do all routers have the locking knob you speak of, or is that just certain kinds? Perhaps thats where I'm getting a little lost. trying to do a router table for cheap and I think I can build a fence and table, just not sure how the router mounts
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Oct 11, 2014 06:03
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I have an old router with a ply table I built, and mine had a plastic base plate that screwed onto the base of the router. I took that off, drilled holes in the table and got some longer screws and screwed the router to the ply. Countersink your screws though. My router is old and fairly basic, but I took the springs out of the risers so I wasn't fighting against those whenever I did a height adjustment or bit change.
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Oct 11, 2014 07:52
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dhrusis posted:So basically if I got that HF router, to bring it up or down I'd need to reach under the table and twist the plastic ring, and to change bits I need to remove the router, use 2 wrenches to remove the bit... do all routers have the locking knob you speak of, or is that just certain kinds? Perhaps thats where I'm getting a little lost. trying to do a router table for cheap and I think I can build a fence and table, just not sure how the router mounts Yep exactly. I've never used the plastic ring on mine, not even sure what it does. I just turn the router in the base.
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Oct 11, 2014 16:43
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