|
Thanks for the heads up for free. Hopefully, I can snag one when I get a chance to call later. I use WiFi calling with them all of the time and half of the time at home it'll cut out after 30s or so. I'm thinking it's my e2000 getting a big long in the tooth. I'd be curious to see what they changed to improve call connections, etc.
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2014 21:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
Flameingblack posted:I need help setting up what's essentially, a home network for a small business. Phone-posting, but since this is a business a VPN concentrator would be the best choice. Opening up RDP ports facing the internet also doesn't sound like the best idea, either. Look into some kind of UTM device with a VPN concentrator which would replace their "home" router and plug the switch into it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 06:20
|
|
|
calandryll posted:Thanks for the heads up for free. Hopefully, I can snag one when I get a chance to call later. I use WiFi calling with them all of the time and half of the time at home it'll cut out after 30s or so. I'm thinking it's my e2000 getting a big long in the tooth. I'd be curious to see what they changed to improve call connections, etc. I just got a notification that they are backordered, so it may take a while to show up when you order.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 13:13
|
|
|
Slimy Hog posted:I just got a notification that they are backordered, so it may take a while to show up when you order. Thanks for the update, I ordered it last night and the CSR said next Friday. I'm guessing they didn't realize a bunch of people were going to jump on it. I did get it for free with free shipping as well. Ryang, did you notice what they were doing to improve the Wifi calling option? Edit: I am on Verizon FiOS and my current setup is coax cable -> Verizon modem -> e2000 -> my network. The modem is currently set to just bridge the coax cable. I did run some RJ45 from the outside connector to where my router is but never got around to calling Verizon to tell them to switch output from coax to the RJ45 connection. There are two connection options at the FiOS box outside my house. I am assuming it would be better make that switch correct? calandryll fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Oct 2, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 17:15
|
|
|
I'm looking for a new router for my sister. She's not very technologically inclined so I would need something where I could just set it and forget it. Is there a router that would work that costs less than $50?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 17:17
|
|
|
Jesus Christ, Realtek. When I leave the box idling during data migration, it musters up to 58MB/s via Samba on the gigabit link. But oh if I let Google Music play some tunes in the browser, the performance drops to half for no reason. Why are these terrible things still being built into mainboards?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 17:49
|
|
|
calandryll posted:
Yes, do this. It's so nice getting that Verizon router out of the picture.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 19:10
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:Jesus Christ, Realtek. When I leave the box idling during data migration, it musters up to 58MB/s via Samba on the gigabit link. But oh if I let Google Music play some tunes in the browser, the performance drops to half for no reason. Why are these terrible things still being built into mainboards? That's probably just SMB1 being rear end. The super cheap onboard NICs are pretty good at basic accelerated TCP connections for quite a few years, UDP is terrible though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 23:50
|
|
|
How up to date is the OP with it's router recomendations? I really need a new one, my current one is dying. Needs to be capable of ethernet and wifi and able to plug into our cable modem. Whats the best value for money?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 06:41
|
|
|
A Saucy Bratwurst posted:How up to date is the OP with it's router recomendations? I really need a new one, my current one is dying. Needs to be capable of ethernet and wifi and able to plug into our cable modem. Whats the best value for money? The most frequently recommended routers seem to be an Apple airport extreme (refurbished units aren't ridiculously expensive) and the ASUS RT-N66U or RT-AC66U or RT-AC68U (price goes up as more wifi features go on). Some folks have had overheating with the N66U and it's not immune to what seems to be the normal "you might have to reset it sometimes and it may only last a few years" issues that most consumer routers have these days, but in general they're okay. It helps that they also support third party firmware which can sometimes alleviate firmware bugs from the manufacturer. Cheaper consumer routers tend to lose features, lifespan, and stability, although there may be some folks who like their cheap routers that can recommend them in the thread. I wouldn't buy anything made by linksys at this point, and Netgear seems to be hit or miss depending on the router release.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 07:38
|
|
|
Thanks. I dont trust Apple's stuff and the N66U is 170 from where I normally get computer gear. Know any decent places in Australia I can order it from? 170 was Umart.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 07:58
|
|
|
I have a set of Powerline adapters that are rated at 500mbps (D-Link DHP-308AV). I find that I am able to get around 60-70mbps through them in real world use. If I go and splash out on some 'top of the range' adapters like these, am I likely to see any better speeds? Or, typically are the top end benefits mainly going to be for those lucky people who have really good cabling? Also, I have one end of the Powerline link plugged into a 5-way power strip. Is this a bad idea?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 14:49
|
|
|
calandryll posted:Ryang, did you notice what they were doing to improve the Wifi calling option? No, I didn't play around with it before I flashed back to stock firmware. Anecdotal evidence from around the internet suggests it's not doing much.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 17:29
|
|
|
Zartans Lady Mask posted:Also, I have one end of the Powerline link plugged into a 5-way power strip. Is this a bad idea? The 600Mpbs adapters apparently do increase actual speeds a good amount, but it's impossible to really say how much it will benefit you without just buying them and trying them out, since it really depends on your quality of power wiring. Cawd Rud fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 20:08
|
|
|
Zartans Lady Mask posted:I have a set of Powerline adapters that are rated at 500mbps (D-Link DHP-308AV). I find that I am able to get around 60-70mbps through them in real world use. You're unlikely to get any higher with different hardware, and yes, it is a bad idea to have it going through a power bar, plug it right in to the wall.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 20:43
|
|
|
MrMoo posted:That's probably just SMB1 being rear end. The super cheap onboard NICs are pretty good at basic accelerated TCP connections for quite a few years, UDP is terrible though. --edit: Also, when the Realtek port is maxed out with traffic, Aero and the mouse cursor become frequently jerky. None of that on the Intel one, either.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 00:03
|
|
|
ryangs posted:No, I didn't play around with it before I flashed back to stock firmware. Anecdotal evidence from around the internet suggests it's not doing much. I actually received mine today. I looked around and didn't see anything special about it. I ended up flashing TomatoUSB onto it. I switched to the 5Ghz for my phone and not getting 200 MBps connection speed. I'm wondering if that's how they are promoting their "enhanced" wifi calling. I also ended up ditching my FiOS modem/router that was in bridge mode. It seems to be a lot faster response over ethernet from the outside box. Of course it could just be my imagination.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 02:18
|
|
|
I have TWC internet, a Motorola 6141, and a wndr 3700. Yesterday the Internet cut out randomly. After troubleshooting the modem is fine and putting out Internet over Ethernet. I plugged in my laptop and Internet works fine. The wndr says Internet is available through the genie app, however, no devices connected via wireless are able to get any Internet connectivity. Any ideas? The little light by the world (Internet icon) is Amber agentq fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Oct 4, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 04:35
|
|
|
All the amber light means is that your router negotiated a 100 Mbps connection over the Ethernet port. If it were blue, you'd be connected at gigabit. Is the 3700 set to act as a bridge or as a standard router?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 05:42
|
|
|
Binary Badger posted:All the amber light means is that your router negotiated a 100 Mbps connection over the Ethernet port. If it were blue, you'd be connected at gigabit. It is set to be a standard router. It's ofd, the Internet just cut out on Thursday.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 16:02
|
|
|
We got AT&T U-Verse small business for our house in April and it's been great from a speed perspective, but the Mortorola combo modem/router has really lovely wifi. We still have our old Netgear WNDR3700v2. If we want to see it up as just a wireless AP, is the Gargoyle router firmware on it fine or should we load up dd-wrt or something else?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 19:10
|
|
|
I know that some of the Asus 802.11ac routers were performing really poorly on 2.4GHz a while back. With the most recent firmware, is that still the case? I've been thinking about getting a new router, but even some of the most recent reviews on Newegg and Amazon complain about 2.4GHz performance.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 22:11
|
|
|
Josh Lyman posted:We got AT&T U-Verse small business for our house in April and it's been great from a speed perspective, but the Mortorola combo modem/router has really lovely wifi. I'm using that same model as an AP with dd-wrt and it works great. Haven't tried Gargoyle, but I'm assuming it works just as well. For dd-wrt I turned off DHCP and DNS and disabled "WAN connection type" to turn off NAT. Passes DHCP/DNS requests perfectly fine to the router.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 23:27
|
|
|
Zartans Lady Mask posted:I have a set of Powerline adapters that are rated at 500mbps (D-Link DHP-308AV). I find that I am able to get around 60-70mbps through them in real world use. I have some cheap TP Link powerline adapters which are 500 mbit/s. Due to their awesome price they only have 100 mbit/s ethernet jacks. So low throughput probably relates to those. Gigabit jacks should give you a reasonable throughout increase rather than being capped at 100 mbit/s. Note that powerline adapter speeds are listed like wifi speeds where they add the maximum speed in each direction.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2014 04:06
|
|
|
Rukus posted:I'm using that same model as an AP with dd-wrt and it works great. Haven't tried Gargoyle, but I'm assuming it works just as well. For dd-wrt I turned off DHCP and DNS and disabled "WAN connection type" to turn off NAT. Passes DHCP/DNS requests perfectly fine to the router. At least with Gargoyle (as opposed to dd-wrt), we'll get per-user bandwidth logging without having to manual install an array of packages.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2014 12:28
|
|
|
At one end of my house I have a Buffalo WZR-1750AC, at the other end I have a WRT54G2 v4 that I want to use an access point. Both routers are running DD-WRT. I want to be able to watch Netflix in my bedroom, but all my devices seem to want to connect to the Buffalo router with a lovely signal that buffers a ton. I have the SSIDs and security all set the same, I did notice that the Buffalo was set to run wifi-N on the 2.4GHz channel and the 54G of course only ran G. Would this explain why all my devices want to connect to the Buffalo even if the signal sucks? I switched both routers to G only now, so far 3 of four devices are connected to the 54G, but Netflix is still buffering a bit. Do I really need a router with more than 16MB RAM just to act as an access point? Also of note, my neighbor two houses down has like 5 wireless networks and I pick up a better signal from his routers that I get from my Buffalo router. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 02:53
|
|
|
Yeah having same ssid messes things up. If you want roaming around the house with zero handoff try ubquiti. Their n series are good but newer ac models don't have zero hand off
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 05:41
|
|
|
Crotch Fruit posted:At one end of my house I have a Buffalo WZR-1750AC, at the other end I have a WRT54G2 v4 that I want to use an access point. Both routers are running DD-WRT. I want to be able to watch Netflix in my bedroom, but all my devices seem to want to connect to the Buffalo router with a lovely signal that buffers a ton. I have the SSIDs and security all set the same, I did notice that the Buffalo was set to run wifi-N on the 2.4GHz channel and the 54G of course only ran G. Would this explain why all my devices want to connect to the Buffalo even if the signal sucks? I switched both routers to G only now, so far 3 of four devices are connected to the 54G, but Netflix is still buffering a bit. Do I really need a router with more than 16MB RAM just to act as an access point? You could always have the two access points broadcasting different SSIDs, but that's a pain to manually switch over all the time. Maybe you should ask your neighbor about his setup if his coverage is so good :p
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 06:08
|
|
|
So I'm moving to a condo and need a new router. Looking for something that can handle being in an environment with a lot of WiFi connections (other apartments). My internet speed is 40mbps and I'll be using wireless to stream movies and netflix to my TV. May be gaming using wireless on ps3 well. I guess WiFi performance is my main concern. Should I pick something from the sub 150 category of the original post or is there a better option available?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 16:01
|
|
|
ray_finkle_himself posted:So I'm moving to a condo and need a new router. Looking for something that can handle being in an environment with a lot of WiFi connections (other apartments). My internet speed is 40mbps and I'll be using wireless to stream movies and netflix to my TV. May be gaming using wireless on ps3 well. I guess WiFi performance is my main concern. If you're expecting congestion and your wireless devices support it you definitely want to look at something that handles dual band so you can use 5ghz as much as possible. While the 2.4ghz range gets saturated easily with multiple access points on the channels, 5ghz has a lot more room. 5ghz doesn't travel as well through solid objects but due to the channel issues it fits congested apartment style well. The main recommendations at the moment are the Apple Airport Extreme (a refurbished previous generation one is very affordable) and the ASUS RT-N66U, RT-AC66U and RT-AC68U which go up in price based on how many new wifi things they do. No consumer router is perfect but goons have had luck with those recommendations before. The RT-N66U is about $130, AC is $160-170 and the AC68 is $200. Refurbished airport extremes are $85 for the 5th gen: http://store.apple.com/us/product/FD031LL/A/refurbished-airport-extreme-base-station and $169 for the latest gen. New the latest gen is $199 on the apple store. Note that the airports require a special utility to set them up, they don't seem to have the web page configuration that most routers do (but there's a windows version of the software: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1998 ). Note that I have not used any of these routers myself but they seem to be the most frequently recommended. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Oct 7, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 17:32
|
|
|
I posted a while back wondering if using a pair of ubiquiti nanostations to extend my wifi from my apartment 230 some feet would work. Well I bought 2 nanostation loco m2's and right now they've got a 2 bar link. I think I can get a better link with moving the "base" unit around more but I actually ran outta cable. Going to buy a window mount for one of em too. Anyway thats my story of extending my network across the neighborhood.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 18:37
|
|
|
phosdex posted:I posted a while back wondering if using a pair of ubiquiti nanostations to extend my wifi from my apartment 230 some feet would work. Did you mount them outside with a clear line of sight between the two locations? Did you do a frequency scan on both of them to help choose the cleanest channel? The distance you are going is tiny for how far these will go.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 20:17
|
|
|
phosdex posted:I posted a while back wondering if using a pair of ubiquiti nanostations to extend my wifi from my apartment 230 some feet would work. Remember that line-of-sight doesn't mean a straight line. It means the fresnel zone.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 20:37
|
|
|
I have them mounted indoors, I don't think they can handle the outdoors. I don't have line of sight at all which is why I was curious if this would work at all. I have to shoot through one house and probably the edge of another. edit; this is in airmax mode, which kinda stinks because normal client devices can't connect in this mode.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 20:49
|
|
|
They can totally handle the outdoors - I was going to put one of the M5s I'm using outdoors until I got five bars with it still inside.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 21:13
|
|
|
phosdex posted:I have them mounted indoors, I don't think they can handle the outdoors. I don't have line of sight at all which is why I was curious if this would work at all. I have to shoot through one house and probably the edge of another. Those are outdoor rated radios. Getting them outside your place and onto fixed mounts on the outside of the building will help but they will always suck a bit due to there being a building in the way. Still, it's cheaper than paying for an internet connection at the other end, I guess.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2014 00:44
|
|
|
caberham posted:Yeah having same ssid messes things up. If you want roaming around the house with zero handoff try ubquiti. Their n series are good but newer ac models don't have zero hand off I am not familiar with Ubiquiti's products, assuming I go this route what would I need? Is the UniFi AP what I need, and if so would I one work my Buffalo router or would I need two Ubiquiti APs?
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2014 02:38
|
|
|
Crotch Fruit posted:I am not familiar with Ubiquiti's products, assuming I go this route what would I need? Is the UniFi AP what I need, and if so would I one work my Buffalo router or would I need two Ubiquiti APs? Ubiquiti's Unifi products include their controller software which supports proper handoffs, so with that in mind a minimum of two are required. That model is also 2.4GHz only, but it shouldn't be a problem unless you have some really bad neighbourhood interference, since those APs should just blast right through it. Also take a look at their "long range" version of that AP, which should further help with any weak signal issues.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2014 03:07
|
|
|
Is there a particular model of switch I should look for? I just need a gigabit unmanaged switch with 6 or 8 ports.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2014 05:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
Han Nehi posted:Is there a particular model of switch I should look for? I just need a gigabit unmanaged switch with 6 or 8 ports. Check out either the Netgear or DLink unmanaged switches. Both are well reviewed, and I've got one of those Netgears running for a few years now without issues.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2014 05:48
|
|