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deimos posted:What? That's a really good ATNG designed power supply that is extremely cheap in Japan for it's capacity, to the order of being a better deal than most 400-600W units available at the price range. It's a fine, well informed choice. In that case, if it's an ATNG unit, it's a different story. The company states though that it's 80 Plus Certified acquired but I can't seem find it being listed on the official 80 Plus website at all. deimos posted:Just because you don't know who manufactures a PSU does not automatically make it bad. Still it does not mean it be should an advisable buy unless we initially know for certain who the manufacturer is.
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Oct 8, 2014 16:38
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Hakarne posted:Edit: Just to make sure I don't gently caress this up this is the right WIFI adapter right? http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=33-106-190 Close. Right adapter, but you want the desktop kit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106192&cm_re=intel_7260-_-33-106-192-_-Product Unfortunately it's out of stock at Newegg right now.
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Oct 8, 2014 16:43
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overdriveGTO posted:I don't suppose there is a Pentium Anniversary bundle with an ITX motherboard option, is there? No, but if you get the bundle and sell the motherboard you can get something else you want for less
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Oct 8, 2014 16:49
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Factory Factory posted:Close. Right adapter, but you want the desktop kit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106192&cm_re=intel_7260-_-33-106-192-_-Product Doh, thanks. For a power supply, would a 550W still be ok for this set up? I'd prefer 600w+ but I don't want to break $100 on the PSU or get another lovely one that will burn out. Also I looked around and people on other forums are saying the Gigabyte gtx 970 will fit in the HAF 922 so I'll stick with that card/case. If it ends up not fitting I'll take it as a sign it's time to upgrade my case as well. Thanks again!
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Oct 8, 2014 18:19
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WhiskeyJuvenile posted:32GB is to avoid scratch as much as possible. So basically you're not sure what software she uses and whether or not she even needs a blu-ray drive. You should know more about her needs in detail before going ahead and building a computer like this. How intensive is her work? Is she actually going to be able to use all 32GB of RAM? Will she actually fully benefit with 8 threads and hyper-threading from a Core i7 for her work?
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Oct 8, 2014 18:53
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Hakarne posted:Doh, thanks. For a power supply, would a 550W still be ok for this set up? I'd prefer 600w+ but I don't want to break $100 on the PSU or get another lovely one that will burn out. Yeah, 550W is plenty. Look at a Rosewill Capstone or a SeaSonic G series, e.g. SSR-550RM or S12G. E: I'll break it down: 88W CPU TDP, 140W for the 970, 50W for the ~everything else. The 970 has a max 125% power target (175W) and the maximum 24/7 safe overclock will kick the CPU up to no more than 150W. So 375W for a theoretical maximum actual power draw. Experience tells me that this will really likely be more like 300W, but going with it: 20% margin (minimum): 450W 100% margin (maximum sane): 750W 550W is enough power. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Oct 8, 2014 |
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Oct 8, 2014 18:58
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I live on a boat now, so looking to build a tiny gaming PC that I can stick in a cupboard or something and use a wireless mouse/keyboard with since my old gaming PC is huge. I'm guessing a mini-ITX case/mboard is what I am looking at? And I guess a nvidia 750 Ti? Any recommendations? I would LOVE it if I could find a PSU that natively used 12V so I could run it off my house battery instead of having to use an inverter, but the largest I can find of those is only 120 Watts
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Oct 8, 2014 21:15
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Factory Factory posted:Yeah, 550W is plenty. Look at a Rosewill Capstone or a SeaSonic G series, e.g. SSR-550RM or S12G. I really appreciate all of your advice! I think this will be my new set-up after this round of upgrades: CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($204.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Toshiba Solid State Drive 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($499.95 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($375.91 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master HAF 922 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) Monitor: Asus VH238H 23.0" Monitor ($157.58 @ Newegg) Monitor: Acer V173DJOb 75Hz 17.0" Monitor Monitor: Planar 997-7318-00 75Hz 15.0" Monitor ($183.99 @ Newegg) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260HMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($49.99 @ Newegg) Other: Active DisplayPort Adapter ($26.99) Total: $2121.33 The upgrade cost ends up being ~$1050 which seems pretty decent for a nice rig like this. Later on I'll probably get some better RAM to swap in, which will let me take the rest of my old parts and make a beater computer for the kids. Perfect!
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Oct 8, 2014 21:34
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I've built a computer for gaming/general use which should hopefully last for a while: CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£148.00 @ Aria PC) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£64.99 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£64.00 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card (£149.71 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case (£50.00 @ Amazon UK) Total: £476.70 Does this look alright?
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Oct 8, 2014 21:41
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BurnBlackJay posted:I've built a computer for gaming/general use which should hopefully last for a while: Depending on your local market pricing and resolution, it might be worth looking for a cheap R9-280X if you're at 1080p or stretching the budget for a GTX 970 if you play at 2560x1440. What are you doing for storage and PSU?
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Oct 8, 2014 21:48
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Twerk from Home posted:Depending on your local market pricing and resolution, it might be worth looking for a cheap R9-280X if you're at 1080p or stretching the budget for a GTX 970 if you play at 2560x1440. I've already got a fairly new PSU at 500W and hard drive which I wanna replace at some point in the future, and yeah I have a 1080p monitor The nvidia's cheaper than the ati one, on amazon anyway 
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Oct 8, 2014 21:51
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BurnBlackJay posted:I've already got a fairly new PSU at 500W and hard drive which I wanna replace at some point in the future, and yeah I have a 1080p monitor The 760 is fine for 1080p anyway, I only asked because a month ago the R9-280X was both cheaper and faster than the 760 here in the US and I wasn't sure what your local pricing situation was like. The 760 has had some nice price cuts in the last couple weeks.
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Oct 8, 2014 21:58
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Derp, someone else got there first.
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Oct 8, 2014 22:03
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BurnBlackJay posted:I've built a computer for gaming/general use which should hopefully last for a while: I would have advised to try and get the 4690 over the 4590 if you were able to but otherwise it's not a big deal. Your memory is fully compatible. Though my critique would be that it has tall fins and costs more than the cheapest RAM set. The fins are completely useless and, due to their height, can potentially limit your upgrade path in regards to CPU coolers. (Out of curiosity, what power supply unit are you using?)
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Oct 8, 2014 22:08
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Titor posted:I would have advised to try and get the 4690 over the 4590 if you were able to but otherwise it's not a big deal. I was wondering what the hell the fins were supposed to be, is there a brand in particular you'd recommend? there's a lot in the OP, and this is my current PSU.
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Oct 8, 2014 22:26
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BurnBlackJay posted:I was wondering what the hell the fins were supposed to be, is there a brand in particular you'd recommend? there's a lot in the OP, and this is my current PSU. Fins and tall heatspreaders pretty much serve for aesthetic purposes only. Memory operating at 1.5v and below generally do not need a heatspreader. Overall brand doesn't really matter at all so people always advise to go with the cheapest compatible set. That power supply unit is high quality and an ideal wattage for your machine. If it's nearing 5 years of age though then you should consider replacing it.
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Oct 8, 2014 22:50
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Alctel posted:I live on a boat now, so looking to build a tiny gaming PC that I can stick in a cupboard or something and use a wireless mouse/keyboard with since my old gaming PC is huge. Hm. Lotta issues going on here. First off, you can't enclose a PC in a cabinet, period. PCs need airflow. Keep the cabinet open and make sure there's enough room around the system for air to flow. Second, a mini-ITX PC can get hella buff, if you want it to. You don't have to limit yourself to a 750 Ti, even in small form-factor cases. But the smaller you get, the more expensive and/or difficult it is to keep everything cool. The absolute smallest you can get a full-oomph gaming PC is the Gigabyte Brix Gaming, to which you add your own RAM and storage. There are three models to consider: quad-core mobile i7 with a GeForce 760, dual-core mobile i5 with a GeForce 760, and AMD A8 APU with R9-275MX. I would fit these with a 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO mSATA and an HGST Travelstar 1 TB 2.5" hard drive or Samsung (by Seagate) Spinpoint M8. 5400 RPM or 7200 RPM doesn't really matter for a bulk storage drive, but the HGST comes in 7200 RPM if you care. Because of the extremely small size, the fan on the Brix *will* get loud at full oomph. If you want to DIY, you can't get that small, but you can get quieter. Something like a Silverstone Sugo (shoebox sized) or a Silverstone Milo ML07 or Raven RVZ01 (bigger, but a different shape - a smidge larger than an Xbox One) has more room for cooling a full desktop-size processor and as big a single-GPU graphics card as you care to put in. Now, on power: There is, like, one board family with an integrated DC-DC VRM that takes a 12V input: The Gigabyte GA-_8_TN (e.g. GA-H87TN). It's a Thin Mini ITX board. It can take up to 180W of input power from 12V to 19V. However, it can only deliver 25W through the PCIe slot. I do not know if there is a way to get around this. In theory, you could get a 750 Ti with a PCIe power connector and get the other 50W from the on-board SATA power connector. Pair it with a Core i3-4130T. But I really, really do not know if that will work. It might be better to go with a standard board like an ASRock H97M-ITX and an add-in DC-DC PSU, especially one that can handle voltage dips below 12V better. I'm betting the 120W one you found was a PicoPSU. PicoPSUs do come in up to 160W sizes (PicoPSU-160-XT). There is also a 250W DC-DC PSU, the M4-ATX. You can even get an ATX enclosure for it, but the fan requires some soldering(!). It literally has no connectors besides ATX and ATX12V, though - you'd need to get some Molex connectors and wires and make your own split-offs for PCIe, SATA, etc. I guess you could start with extension cables, that'd be a good source of parts. The 160W PicoPSU would be enough for a 750 Ti and an i3-4130T with drives and fans, so you're right there. The 250W M4-ATX could probably handle an i5-4590S and a GeForce 970 with a dropped power target (i.e. underclocked), or the 4130T and no dropped power target on the 970. You could underclock the CPU, too, if you felt salty. I would not get a GPU intermediate to the 750 Ti and 970, as nothing else really approaches them on performance-per-watt. If you do a DC-DC PSU, get a multimeter and do a DIY wattage measurement. Measure the exact value for the 12V output, then measure the current, and then volts * amps = watts. Drop the GPU's power target, see where that leaves you when running, like, Furmark, and see how much you have to spare. That'll help you figure out your underclocking targets and whether you want to trade some CPU power for GPU power.
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Oct 8, 2014 23:46
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Once you've built a PC, is there any reason to upgrade the case? Because although there's nothing wrong with my Antec Three Hundred Two, the Fractal Design R4 is now $70: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352038
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Oct 9, 2014 00:12
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Josh Lyman posted:Once you've built a PC, is there any reason to upgrade the case? Because although there's nothing wrong with my Antec Three Hundred Two, the Fractal Design R4 is now $70: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352038 Same reason as any other part: if the new one will be significantly better and make you happy given the money spent.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:16
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Okay, looking for a last minute sanity check. I've gotten most of the parts but decided to cut out waiting for the GTX 960 - I can't hold off on the replacement any longer. Basic 1080 gaming use, no overclocking, nothing really super fancy. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $188.00) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $29.99) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $81.98) Memory: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Intel 530 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $119.99) Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $95.00) Video Card: ? Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $49.99) Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $29.99) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $16.99) Monitor: Acer G237HLbi 60Hz 23.0" Monitor (Purchased For $114.99) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260HMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter (Purchased For $46.99) Total: $842.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-08 20:18 EDT-0400 So two questions to go with the sanity check. 1) What's a good GPU to get? My budget won't allow for the 970 (which outperforms my needs anyhow). I'm aiming for under $250, but with the Nvidia shake-ups I'm not sure where the best cost/performance points lie and what manufacturers are best. 2) I picked up the power supply on a great sale, based on the OP. Which is apparently out of date and I haven't seen anybody suggesting Corsairs lately. How much of a Bad Choice is this? (And if I get a different GPU than the anticipated 760, how beefier should I go to account for the possibly higher power usage?)
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Oct 9, 2014 01:25
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Factory Factory posted:Hm. Lotta issues going on here. Wow, this is fantastic - thank you!
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Oct 9, 2014 03:27
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A few questions Here's what I'm looking at CPU:Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Micro Center) Motherboard:ASRock Z97M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard OR MSI H97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg and Amazon respectively) RAM:CORSAIR XMS3 DHX 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Dual Channel Kit (Already owned) Case:Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center) Total:~$300 My questions are: 1) Is there any meaningful difference in those motherboards if I don't plan on overclocking anything? 2) Will my RAM get along fine with either until I can afford to upgrade it? mango sentinel fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Oct 9, 2014 |
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Oct 9, 2014 03:38
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Just a quick question. I currently have an AMD CPU and am considering an upgrade at the moment. Would it be worth it for all the trouble of switching over to Intel, or should I just get a newer AMD CPU than the one I have (AMD Athlon II X4)?
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Oct 9, 2014 04:30
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SGR posted:Just a quick question. I currently have an AMD CPU and am considering an upgrade at the moment. Would it be worth it for all the trouble of switching over to Intel, or should I just get a newer AMD CPU than the one I have (AMD Athlon II X4)? Quick answer is get Intel. The long answer would be which one, but that'll need more info from you
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Oct 9, 2014 04:31
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1gnoirents posted:Quick answer is get Intel. The long answer would be which one, but that'll need more info from you So basically, yes switch to Intel? What I want to know primarily is what are the benefits of switching to the recommended Intel processor over what my current processor is? Is it considerably/significantly faster than my current CPU? PixoPoxo fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Oct 9, 2014 |
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Oct 9, 2014 04:31
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I'm looking to upgrade my PC, which is an i7 860, 12GB RAM, Radeon 7850. I've got to do my upgrades piecemeal -- video card is my purchase this month, followed by a shift to Haswell i5 next month. I'm really tempted to jump on an R9 290, since the prices are reasonable here in the UK (£230 or so), and at the moment I'd get 3 free games including Alien: Isolation. Is there any compelling reason to go for an NVIDIA alternative? Is there something in my price range (sub £250) that I'm missing that'd give me better price/performance? I'm only running one monitor, so really I just want to max out my experience at 1080p and keep myself future-proof as much as possible for my budget. Also, how limited will I be by my old-arse CPU until I can upgrade that? Will I still see a massive improvement over the current status quo just by jumping from the 7850 to the R9 290 (or whatever)?
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Oct 9, 2014 04:46
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SGR posted:So basically, yes switch to Intel? What I want to know primarily is what are the benefits of switching to the recommended Intel processor over what my current processor is? Is it considerably/significantly faster than my current CPU? Yes. The only thing that AMD really has "going for it" are more cores at lower price points. But Intel processors are so much faster per thread. The simplified answer is that a 4 core Intel processor is still going to be way faster at anything you'd ever use it for than an 8 core AMD processor. A silly analogy would be to imagine an Intel chariot being pulled by 4 horses. Now race it against an AMD chariot being pulled by 8 goats.
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Oct 9, 2014 05:00
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thorsilver posted:I'm really tempted to jump on an R9 290, since the prices are reasonable here in the UK (£230 or so), and at the moment I'd get 3 free games including Alien: Isolation. Is there any compelling reason to go for an NVIDIA alternative? Is there something in my price range (sub £250) that I'm missing that'd give me better price/performance? A GeForce 970 would take practically half the electricity to run, which would help with the total cost of ownership, and it would run significantly quieter as well. It's really the card to beat right now for high-eye-candy 1080p. It's also got DRS - a variation on supersampling that renders at up-to-4K resolution and downscales for super-high-quality antialiasing. On titles where the 970 has performance to spare, which is practically all of them at 1080p, you can use DRS instead of MSAA and it'll look fab. Your CPU... Depends. If you overclock it, not that much, really. Unless you play a lot of Planetside 2 or Starcraft 2. Even so, a GPU upgrade will give massive benefits.
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Oct 9, 2014 05:25
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God I haven't built a new PC in ages, everyones talking about 1080 and 4k now instead of normal resolutions like 1920x1080 and I have no idea what that means
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Oct 9, 2014 06:13
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Titor posted:In that case, if it's an ATNG unit, it's a different story. Thanks for the feedback! It is mainly a gaming PC, but I want to make it a last for more than 5 years without having to upgrade if possible. I know the i7 and the extra memory are overkill for a gaming system, but I'm also considering other uses for it in the coming years (potential video editing, etc.). Can an i7 really slow down performance on some games?? Now I'm nervous about the PSU. I got it from PC Depot and it was their recommended PSU. The brand, Kurotoushikou, seems to be all over the place. I see their logo a lot when I look for pc parts. Blorange posted:If all of this stuff is sitting in your living room already, just go ahead and build the thing. You could optimize your costs a little bit, but nothing here is all that out of line. Yeah it's all here by now. I just wanted to be sure before I start opening everything. I guess it's time to take the plunge.
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Oct 9, 2014 06:17
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Josh Lyman posted:Once you've built a PC, is there any reason to upgrade the case? Because although there's nothing wrong with my Antec Three Hundred Two, the Fractal Design R4 is now $70: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352038 If you're perfectly happy with your case that money would probably be better spent on something else. The biggest difference between those two cases is the R4 is designed to be a quiet case and your current case has lots of ventilation and is not. Yea the R4 is better built and has a few extra features inside but unless noise is your concern it doesn't make a whole lot of sense imo.
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Oct 9, 2014 06:20
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SGR posted:So basically, yes switch to Intel? What I want to know primarily is what are the benefits of switching to the recommended Intel processor over what my current processor is? Is it considerably/significantly faster than my current CPU? Yeah, switch to Intel. I have an AMD FX-8350 8 core at present and even with a brand-new nVidia 980 GTX, I get lag in quite a few games that shouldn't otherwise lag, sometimes just as a matter of course or sometimes depending on the settings. The most extreme example: Metro 2033 Redux, if I keep AA completely off, it runs smooth at 60 FPS even during fairly heavy scenes (Such as the combat standoff outside in the Dead City with Bourbon against the horde of mutants) and with everything else maxed. If I turn even the lowest AA on, it slows down to between 15 and 25 FPS for no discernible nor logical reason. A number of other games have also not displayed the kind of performance jump that would be expected of a 980 being run at 1920x1080 (For example, maxed out Battlefield 4 doesn't run at a constant 60FPS on all maps, I've seen it go down to about 53 or 54 during gameplay). Unfortunately, I've had something else come up so my plans for getting a new CPU and some other stuff are on hold until that's all settled, so I can't 100% confirm that it's my CPU yet, but given everything I've heard about AMD since getting this thing as well as my own experiences with it, I wouldn't doubt that it's the problem. In short: Intel, no question. Shima Honnou fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Oct 9, 2014 |
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Oct 9, 2014 06:22
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Alctel posted:God I haven't built a new PC in ages, everyones talking about 1080 and 4k now instead of normal resolutions like 1920x1080 and I have no idea what that means 1080p is just a loan from HDTV land for 1920x1080 progressive scan, i.e. regular 1920x1080. Contrast 1080i, which is 1920x540 images interlaced. Nobody does interlacing any more, thank goodness. 4K is the new hotness of 3840x2160, which is exactly twice 1920 by twice 1080. That's a shitload of pixels for a single screen.
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Oct 9, 2014 07:10
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Alctel posted:I live on a boat now, so looking to build a tiny gaming PC that I can stick in a cupboard or something and use a wireless mouse/keyboard with since my old gaming PC is huge. There's no reason besides cost to limit yourself to a 750ti. You can build a pretty tiny PC with a full sized GPU - look at the Silverstone RVZ01. Asrock H97M-ITX/AC; i5 4690, 8gb of DDR3-1600 ram, a silverstone SFX power supply, a hard drive and an SSD and your choice of graphics card.
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Oct 9, 2014 07:13
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Hakarne posted:I really appreciate all of your advice! I think this will be my new set-up after this round of upgrades: That's a very low end cpu cooler, especially considering you are buying a high end CPU and motherboard. Get a Phanteks TC14PE, or TC12DX (check height restrictions on your case and pick one of the above accordingly)
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Oct 9, 2014 07:15
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Factory Factory posted:A GeForce 970 would take practically half the electricity to run, which would help with the total cost of ownership, and it would run significantly quieter as well. It's really the card to beat right now for high-eye-candy 1080p. It's also got DRS - a variation on supersampling that renders at up-to-4K resolution and downscales for super-high-quality antialiasing. On titles where the 970 has performance to spare, which is practically all of them at 1080p, you can use DRS instead of MSAA and it'll look fab. I'm glad I asked, that's really useful  Thanks for that. The 970 goes for about £260 if I get a Zotac one, or £275 for Windforce 3 OC... are either of those models considered OK? I can stretch my budget if it's going to do me better than the R9 290.Of course then I miss out on the 3 games from AMD, so I'll have to add another £30 to the budget for Alien: Isolation... argh.
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Oct 9, 2014 07:33
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thedmandotjp posted:Now I'm nervous about the PSU. I got it from PC Depot and it was their recommended PSU. The brand, Kurotoushikou, seems to be all over the place. I see their logo a lot when I look for pc parts. I looked more into it to after what deimos said and it seems I was mistaken about the PSU. From what I see you should technically be alright with using it.
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Oct 9, 2014 08:56
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Can I get a sanity check on this setup? The aim is 1080p gaming, but there's no room in the budget for a 970. The r9 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Micro Center) Motherboard: ASRock H97M Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($75.66 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($75.77 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($126.45 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($79.28 @ SuperBiiz) Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 280 3GB DirectCU II Video Card ($204.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($90.26 @ OutletPC) Total: $1026.37 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-09 06:33 EDT-0400 MediumWellDone fucked around with this message at 13:18 on Oct 9, 2014 |
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Oct 9, 2014 12:00
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MediumWellDone posted:Can I get a sanity check on this setup? The aim is 1080p gaming, but there's no room in the budget for a 970. The r9 290 is on special at a local shop for ~$200. The SDD is a hang over from a previous build. Thoughts? That PCPartpicker list shows an R9-280, not an R9-290 like you said. Which are you actually getting? $204 is overpriced for a 280, but an amazing steal for a 290 (although I'd make sure it's a custom cooled model, the reference cooler sucks balls and I'm not sure I'd want to subject myself to it even at that price.)
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Oct 9, 2014 12:07
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 20:03 |
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Just wanted to pop in and say thanks to the thread. I got my PC together last night and got everything right on the first try, I was fairly pleased with myself since this was my first build in probably 10 years. I ran into one annoying hiccup, after I ran windows setup and it tried to boot into windows first time, as best I could tell windows thought my monitor was 2140x1152 or something like that and my monitor would just show an error message and nothing else. I had to find an old 15" monitor I had laying around to install drivers and then my better screen worked. Very annoying! Coming from a C2D this thing screams. It just makes my woeful internet connection all that more apparent. I waited almost an hour to download steam and plex (less than 200MB total)  Now I just need to wait for my GTX970 to ship someday and I can get everything all organized and pretty.Final build: i5 4690 8GB PC1600 250GB Samsung EVO SSD ASRock H97 Pro4 Phanteks Enthoo Pro Seasonic 550W modular PSU
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Oct 9, 2014 13:12
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