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Syrinxx
Mar 28, 2002

Death is whimsical today

Harminoff posted:

Planning on brewing this over the weekend. Anyone else try it? 11 day fermentation is pretty awesome considering it's a stout.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/milk-oatmeal-stout-182975/
Every time I use Windsor I get irritated because it doesn't floc for poo poo. The recipe seems good but I'd probably use 1084 for the yeast if you are bottle conditioning and/or don't like using fining agents. I bookmarked that recipe because a lot of people ask me for lacto stouts and I haven't made one before so I think I will now!

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BLARGHLE
Oct 2, 2013

But I want something good
to die for
To make it beautiful to live.
Yams Fan

Jo3sh posted:

I'm not sure if this got answered before. I generally don't bother with nutrients in cider, basically because it seems to work pretty well without. I did use champagne yeast once, and it didn't seem to have any trouble getting through the sugars - I found it to be too dry, and I think I remember that it finished at 0.995 or something like that. In fact, I've deliberately used lower-attenuating strains like Sweet Mead every batch since, just so it would be a little off-dry.

I use nutrients in my ciders, just to keep things consistent. Champagne is really my go-to cider yeast, because it imparts basically no flavors beyond "alcohol" on the finished cider. It does absolutely dry them out, though...it'll eat through any and every bit of sugar available to it, until you get into rock candy levels of super saturation.

I think I've only tried the sweet mead yeast once several years ago, and I seem to recall getting a bad smack pack and having to pitch champagne on top of it, so I can't really speak to its efficacy.

I am getting low on ciders, so maybe I'll give them both another run soon.

Josh Wow
Feb 28, 2005

We need more beer up here!

Harminoff posted:

Planning on brewing this over the weekend. Anyone else try it? 11 day fermentation is pretty awesome considering it's a stout.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/milk-oatmeal-stout-182975/

That recipe looks fine but you aren't getting anything from the oats. You have to mash the oats with some 2 row to get them to convert. Your options are to either do a partial mash and add 1-2 lbs of 2 row to your steeping grains (and adjust your extract to hit your target OG) or to drop the oats. Of course nothing bad will happen if you just steep the oats, but you won't get any sugar from them so it's kinda pointless.

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004

Zaepho posted:

Rehydrate your dry yeast before pitching!

If it's already fermented, most of those sugars are gone though, so I doubt this would be an issue.

Lawson
Apr 21, 2006

You're right, I agree.
Total Clam

Jo3sh posted:

I'm not sure if this got answered before. I generally don't bother with nutrients in cider, basically because it seems to work pretty well without. I did use champagne yeast once, and it didn't seem to have any trouble getting through the sugars - I found it to be too dry, and I think I remember that it finished at 0.995 or something like that. In fact, I've deliberately used lower-attenuating strains like Sweet Mead every batch since, just so it would be a little off-dry.

Thanks -- also to BLARGHLE for the advice. As it turns out the question is pretty much moot by now. The thing is bone dry (1.000) after only 3 days in the fermenter. Additional nutrients wouldn't do anything useful, the only thing left to do is age it for a while. It probably would have been OK w/o the initial dose of nutrients and energizer.

The taste reminds me of German Ebbelwoi more than any cider you'd buy in the US. Thinking about adding some blueberry puree during aging, maybe I should split the batch. Hm.

Harminoff
Oct 24, 2005

👽

Josh Wow posted:

That recipe looks fine but you aren't getting anything from the oats. You have to mash the oats with some 2 row to get them to convert. Your options are to either do a partial mash and add 1-2 lbs of 2 row to your steeping grains (and adjust your extract to hit your target OG) or to drop the oats. Of course nothing bad will happen if you just steep the oats, but you won't get any sugar from them so it's kinda pointless.

Thanks for the input. So I won't get any flavor from the oats? I've never done a partial mash but could try. My stove is electric though so temp control is hard.

I did order enough for two batches though. Just excited about the short turnaround time. Should be ready for thanksgiving.

Adult Sword Owner
Jun 19, 2011

u deserve diploma for sublime comedy expertise
I combined 3 parts of my pretty dry cider with 1 part of my pretty sweet tepache and its REALLY GOOD

Like I'm going to make way more of this good

I'll probably do 3 individual gallons of cider and 1 gallon of tepache in a bucket, then combine it all. I don't have a free keg so I'll probably rack it off into gallon bottles. We have a party coming up so it'll be served then.

Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Oct 8, 2014

Syrinxx
Mar 28, 2002

Death is whimsical today

Harminoff posted:

Thanks for the input. So I won't get any flavor from the oats? I've never done a partial mash but could try. My stove is electric though so temp control is hard.

I did order enough for two batches though. Just excited about the short turnaround time. Should be ready for thanksgiving.
This thread might also help: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/confusion-steeping-oats-295310/

eviltastic
Feb 8, 2004

Fan of Britches
I treat cider like I treat mead for purposes of nutrient addition, and it seems to come out ready to drink in short order.

Repeating a prior experiment, I decided to try letting a cider go dry and then step feed it apple juice concentrate until the yeast tops out, then sweeten it with more concentrate to taste. Based on past results with EC-1118, I expected it to stick at around 18% like it's rated.

I started with two gallons of cider. The bloody thing's been fermenting since early August and still going strong. I'm currently getting close to two gallons of concentrate added and the gotmead calculator tells me I've cleared 20% ABV. I'm worried that if I stop feeding those yeasts, I might just make them mad :ohdear:

The wine thief is busted so I haven't tasted it recently, but it smells amazing. Maybe I'll make applejack or add more sugar and referment like this guy and see how far I can push this.

crazyfish
Sep 19, 2002

Has anyone had diacetyl issues with the whitbread strain (S-04, WY1099)? It's been about 10 days in the fermenter, and when I went to check on it, the butterscotch flavour was overwhelming; completely ludicrous like no beer I've ever had before. I don't think I underpitched too much since I used a fresh pack of WY1099 into 1.030 wort, but maybe I hosed something else up.

Fluo
May 25, 2007

crazyfish posted:

Has anyone had diacetyl issues with the whitbread strain (S-04, WY1099)? It's been about 10 days in the fermenter, and when I went to check on it, the butterscotch flavour was overwhelming; completely ludicrous like no beer I've ever had before. I don't think I underpitched too much since I used a fresh pack of WY1099 into 1.030 wort, but maybe I hosed something else up.

I haven't used it but its the same yeast which Bath Ales use for their beers, I find their beer undrinkable because of the butterscotch and people have complained for more then 8 years now (been around since 1995 but after a couple of years something went wrong or they switched yeasts to whitbread) but a lot of people seem to like it so they never fixed it. It irks me because some gigs I go to they only serve bath ales so I have to go with cider or lager.

Fluo fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Oct 8, 2014

crazyfish
Sep 19, 2002

Fluo posted:

I haven't used it but its the same yeast which Bath Ales use for their beers, I find their beer undrinkable because of the butterscotch and people have complained for more then 8 years now (been around since 1995 but after a couple of years something went wrong or they switched yeasts to whitbread) but a lot of people seem to like it so they never fixed it. It irks me because some gigs I go to they only serve bath ales so I have to go with cider or lager.

I've used S-04 in a beer before and didn't get anything approaching this ridiculous level of butterscotch. It was such an easy/cheap beer to make that I might even just dump it and remake it with a different yeast completely rather than wait forever to see if it conditions out.

Flea Bargain
Dec 9, 2008

'Twas brillig


crazyfish posted:

I've used S-04 in a beer before and didn't get anything approaching this ridiculous level of butterscotch. It was such an easy/cheap beer to make that I might even just dump it and remake it with a different yeast completely rather than wait forever to see if it conditions out.

Bump up the temperature 2 or 3 degrees c and wait 4 days, should fix it

Adult Sword Owner
Jun 19, 2011

u deserve diploma for sublime comedy expertise
So while my condo temperature was a steady 66-67 in the summer (I know thats not technically totally stable) apparently they allow a huge swing in the winter

If its below 62 they turn the heat on
If its above 65 they turn it off


This is going to make brewing interesting.

Syrinxx
Mar 28, 2002

Death is whimsical today

crazyfish posted:

I've used S-04 in a beer before and didn't get anything approaching this ridiculous level of butterscotch. It was such an easy/cheap beer to make that I might even just dump it and remake it with a different yeast completely rather than wait forever to see if it conditions out.
Maybe just give it a diacetyl rest? Bring your temp up to like 21-22C for several days and try it again.

crazyfish
Sep 19, 2002

I need to figure out a heating solution for my chest freezer because right now it's sitting around 66 in my apartment and it's not gonna get a whole lot warmer. Maybe I'll just put a pot of hot water in there or something and change it out until the temp goes up, at least until I can figure out some kind of better heating solution. I'd use a fermwrap, but I've got two carboys in there.

eviltastic
Feb 8, 2004

Fan of Britches
I've got a two stage controller, and I just leave a cheapo heating pad in there. We keep the chest freezer in the garage, and it seemed to do OK during the winter. There are guides out there on how to disable the auto-shutoff that some of them come with.

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004

crazyfish posted:

I need to figure out a heating solution for my chest freezer because right now it's sitting around 66 in my apartment and it's not gonna get a whole lot warmer. Maybe I'll just put a pot of hot water in there or something and change it out until the temp goes up, at least until I can figure out some kind of better heating solution. I'd use a fermwrap, but I've got two carboys in there.

How about a heating lamp, like from a reptile terrarium?

RocketMermaid
Mar 30, 2004

My pronouns are She/Heir.



So uh...

Apparently I kicked the first corny I've filled after four years without my keg system... in two weeks.

I might have to fill up the pipeline a bit more aggressively.

(and drink a bit less)

RocketMermaid fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Oct 9, 2014

Bobsledboy
Jan 10, 2007

burning airlines give you so much more

crazyfish posted:

I need to figure out a heating solution for my chest freezer because right now it's sitting around 66 in my apartment and it's not gonna get a whole lot warmer. Maybe I'll just put a pot of hot water in there or something and change it out until the temp goes up, at least until I can figure out some kind of better heating solution. I'd use a fermwrap, but I've got two carboys in there.

I use something like this in a chest freezer. It works great and the heat is very diffuse so you don't get any hotspots.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS

Ubik posted:

So uh...

Apparently I kicked the first corny I've filled after four years without my keg system... in two weeks.

I might have to fill up the pipeline a bit more aggressively.

(and drink a bit less)

I think my kegs average 2 weeks if I don't deliberately limit myself :(

deedee megadoodoo
Sep 28, 2000
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one to Flavortown, and that has made all the difference.


I've been doing some reading on pre-prohibition regional styles and I came across the Pennsylvania Swankey

quote:

Another low-alcohol regional beer, Pennsylvania Swankey, is all but gone; even in 1901, Wahl and Henius described the style as 'still brewed in Allegheny' but apparently not popular much beyond the German-settled areas of the state. In some respects, Swankey seemed better-poised to survive Prohibition (at least locally), since its extremely low alcohol content allowed it to be 'classed as a temperance beverage.' Indeed, some recipes seem more akin to root beer—but the inclusion of spices such as aniseed may have helped keep this beer an acquired taste, little appreciated beyond its original ethnic enclave. Few, if any, modern examples of Pennsylvania Swankey exist beyond the homebrew scene.

This really appeals to me so I figured I'd try my hand at producing my own version. I was thinking something like this:

https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/pet-unicorn

Which is a modified version of a Mild recipe that was posted by another goon. I wanted it to be a little darker so I changed the malt around a bit and I switched up the yeast.

But I'm not really sure how much star anise to use. I know it can be overpowering. Any thoughts on how much to use per gallon? I want it to be present, but not overwhelming.

ChiTownEddie
Mar 26, 2010

Awesome beer, no pants.
Join the Legion.
Unless someone else has some specific experience adding it in secondary, I think most of us would tell you to make a really concentrated tea with the anise. Then proceed slowly add in small amounts to a sample of your beer until it tastes right. From there scale up how much you added to the entire batch!

That is typically the best way to add some extra flavor and then get it riiiiight to where you want it.

Adult Sword Owner
Jun 19, 2011

u deserve diploma for sublime comedy expertise

HatfulOfHollow posted:

I've been doing some reading on pre-prohibition regional styles and I came across the Pennsylvania Swankey


This really appeals to me so I figured I'd try my hand at producing my own version. I was thinking something like this:

https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/pet-unicorn

Which is a modified version of a Mild recipe that was posted by another goon. I wanted it to be a little darker so I changed the malt around a bit and I switched up the yeast.

But I'm not really sure how much star anise to use. I know it can be overpowering. Any thoughts on how much to use per gallon? I want it to be present, but not overwhelming.

I am really interested in pre- and during prohibition alcohol recipes so let me know how this turns out.

evelyn87
Mar 20, 2009

We all can be only who we are, nothing more, no less.
Help me.

I was able to find a semi-recent water report. I used the calculator in the second link to make adjustments carte blanche in hopes of creating a "base" water profile I can use for APAs, IPAs, and other medium bodied ales.

Here's the report;
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_xnzmktq9blQXRKZHk4NmZqYms/view?usp=sharing

Here is what I propose to do to the water as it is in the HLT;
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_xnzmktq9blQ3RnYy1CUlVzZ00/view?usp=sharing

Am I doing this right?
I've been running the water from this water profile through a carbon filter, is that a problem? If it is I'll have to get a water report for the water AFTER the carbon filter.

evelyn87 fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Oct 9, 2014

crazyfish
Sep 19, 2002

Bobsledboy posted:

I use something like this in a chest freezer. It works great and the heat is very diffuse so you don't get any hotspots.

This is awesome and exactly what I was looking for. I'm worried about hotspots making things weird but I think this should do pretty well. Thanks!

deedee megadoodoo
Sep 28, 2000
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one to Flavortown, and that has made all the difference.


ChiTownEddie posted:

Unless someone else has some specific experience adding it in secondary, I think most of us would tell you to make a really concentrated tea with the anise. Then proceed slowly add in small amounts to a sample of your beer until it tastes right. From there scale up how much you added to the entire batch!

That is typically the best way to add some extra flavor and then get it riiiiight to where you want it.

This seems like a good idea. Would you just do the addition of the extract when you bottle? Or should I let it sit on it for a few days in secondary?

ChiTownEddie
Mar 26, 2010

Awesome beer, no pants.
Join the Legion.

HatfulOfHollow posted:

This seems like a good idea. Would you just do the addition of the extract when you bottle? Or should I let it sit on it for a few days in secondary?

I'd do it when bottling. My normal method is to put the sugar water into the bottling bucket then rack on to it, in an attempt to get everything mixed without having to stir. That seems like the best place to get the flavor evenly distributed.

Harminoff
Oct 24, 2005

👽
Made a newb mistake and forgot to order grain bags. Local shop is too far to just grab those. Any other recommendations?

evelyn87
Mar 20, 2009

We all can be only who we are, nothing more, no less.

Harminoff posted:

Made a newb mistake and forgot to order grain bags. Local shop is too far to just grab those. Any other recommendations?

Paint Strainer bags?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_126392-968-11581/12FF_0__?productId=1008385

BLARGHLE
Oct 2, 2013

But I want something good
to die for
To make it beautiful to live.
Yams Fan

eviltastic posted:

I treat cider like I treat mead for purposes of nutrient addition, and it seems to come out ready to drink in short order.

Repeating a prior experiment, I decided to try letting a cider go dry and then step feed it apple juice concentrate until the yeast tops out, then sweeten it with more concentrate to taste. Based on past results with EC-1118, I expected it to stick at around 18% like it's rated.

I started with two gallons of cider. The bloody thing's been fermenting since early August and still going strong. I'm currently getting close to two gallons of concentrate added and the gotmead calculator tells me I've cleared 20% ABV. I'm worried that if I stop feeding those yeasts, I might just make them mad :ohdear:

The wine thief is busted so I haven't tasted it recently, but it smells amazing. Maybe I'll make applejack or add more sugar and referment like this guy and see how far I can push this.

Interesting link. I hadn't thought to try anything like that before...I've just considered the apple jack the final product, and thawed it into mason jars for storage/consumption.


Also, god damnit, all of this cider talk is getting to me. I may need to grab some apple juice and whatnot when I hit costco this evening!

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Harminoff posted:

Made a newb mistake and forgot to order grain bags. Local shop is too far to just grab those. Any other recommendations?

Pantyhose should work in a pinch as well.

nmfree
Aug 15, 2001

The Greater Goon: Breaking Hearts and Chains since 2006

Ubik posted:

(and drink a bit less)
I understand each of those words individually, but when put in that order it turns into utter gibberish.

Harminoff
Oct 24, 2005

👽
Awesome thanks! Also, with the recipe I posted I didn't get any 2row. Could I use the black patent instead? Should I just skip the oats?

Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!
Patent is not diastatic, so it won't convert the oats.

Flea Bargain
Dec 9, 2008

'Twas brillig


I'm pretty sure you will get flavour from the oats whether you can convert them or not, you just won't get any sugar from them for the yeast.

RocketMermaid
Mar 30, 2004

My pronouns are She/Heir.



Just finished brewing the biggest barleywine I've ever brewed at 1.120OG (28 Plato). Hopefully a giant yeast cake and a ton of aeration does the trick!

evelyn87
Mar 20, 2009

We all can be only who we are, nothing more, no less.

Ubik posted:

Just finished brewing the biggest barleywine I've ever brewed at 1.120OG (28 Plato). Hopefully a giant yeast cake and a ton of aeration does the trick!

can you send me a bottle this time next year?

evelyn87
Mar 20, 2009

We all can be only who we are, nothing more, no less.

evelyn87 posted:

Help me.

I was able to find a semi-recent water report. I used the calculator in the second link to make adjustments carte blanche in hopes of creating a "base" water profile I can use for APAs, IPAs, and other medium bodied ales.

Here's the report;
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_xnzmktq9blQXRKZHk4NmZqYms/view?usp=sharing

Here is what I propose to do to the water as it is in the HLT;
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_xnzmktq9blQ3RnYy1CUlVzZ00/view?usp=sharing

Am I doing this right?
I've been running the water from this water profile through a carbon filter, is that a problem? If it is I'll have to get a water report for the water AFTER the carbon filter.

Any water nerds here? I really want to do this for next brew day but don't know if its wtf or not.

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toe knee hand
Jun 20, 2012

HANSEN ON A BREAKAWAY

HONEY BADGER DON'T SCORE

evelyn87 posted:

Any water nerds here? I really want to do this for next brew day but don't know if its wtf or not.

That looks fine. I personally like chalky water so I use that instead of CaCl2 (and make up some of the Cl with salt), but I know I'm in the minority there.

Hope you've got a good scale, water chemistry additions are tiny so something that goes to tenth of a gram is best.

e: also add to the mash, not the HLT. It's a pH thing.

toe knee hand fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Oct 10, 2014

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