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Jadunk posted:Yeah if you plan on replacing trap nuts and washers every time you touch them. Nothing worse than having to follow up a homeowner DIY project where they have somehow managed to fit 15 slip joint nuts worth of connections into place with a mixture of brass and plastic. Eh, I've seen slip nuts lasting for 20+ years in DIY installations. The only ones I've even seen fail at work are the ones where somebody hulked out and tore them to poo poo by tightening them on with 18 inch Channelocks. Even then, they still lasted 10 years before they failed. There are wings on those nuts for a reason.
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Oct 3, 2014 03:09
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I'm feverishly taking notes on all of this. Thanks, everyone. So this weekend I plan on sawing off the pipe leading to the wall. But I'll be doing some repainting and re-tiling before I do the piping. But in the mean time I'll have a big gaping hole in the pipe with sewer gas flowing in. What's the best way to temporarily seal off an exposed drain pipe?
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Oct 3, 2014 05:44
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melon cat posted:What's the best way to temporarily seal off an exposed drain pipe? Plastic bag and a rubber band.
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Oct 3, 2014 06:05
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kid sinister posted:Plastic bag and a rubber band. Yep that'll work fine or a rag shoved in the pipe or you can buy rubber caps /w band clamps that tighten down.
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Oct 3, 2014 16:43
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I'll opt for the rag + rubber band method. I ripped apart the old sink (Yay! Spiders everywhere!) but I still can't get the union off. It turned a few inches, then just stopped. It's really on there. Any harm in just sawing off the whole assembly at the dotted line below?  
melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Oct 4, 2014 |
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Oct 4, 2014 01:43
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melon cat posted:Any harm in just sawing off the whole assembly at the dotted line below? Well, the trap is currently full of water. Put a bucket or big towel underneath before you drop that trap.
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Oct 4, 2014 02:43
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kid sinister posted:Well, the trap is currently full of water. Put a bucket or big towel underneath before you drop that trap. 
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Oct 5, 2014 20:43
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melon cat posted:Good suggestion. I ended up just drilling a hole into the pipe to drain it before I took a saw to it. Only thing is my sawing skills weren't perfect. There's a slide angle to the cut pipe. Will this give me any major problems when I glue the new marvel adapter onto it? I'm just hesitant to correct it because I might make it worse, and the last thing I want to do is chop off any more of this already-short pipeline. How bad of an angle? How about a pic? Could you fix it with a utility knife?
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Oct 6, 2014 01:35
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kid sinister posted:How bad of an angle? How about a pic? Could you fix it with a utility knife?  Don't judge me! 
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Oct 6, 2014 06:50
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melon cat posted:
Use a utility knife. Go slow and try to cut away from yourself.
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Oct 6, 2014 08:40
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I don't really know why I have a bug up my rear end to redo the plumbing here, it seems to be 'fine' so far and at this point I'll maybe just skip it for a while longer and let the feeling pass. It must be because I have time off work and need to do something. Sort of small/low quality, but just to give a glimpse.  This is how I think water is coming into my mobile home: Top left: Point where water enters trailer. Heat tape plugs in and shutoff valve. I've always used this valve to shut off all water. It connects to a line that is running about 15 feet away. (Not pictured: That line) Top right: Where water comes out of the ground, about 15 feet away. Bottom: Hole where water comes out of the ground. At first I felt a valve in the insuluation of the ground connection and figured it was another shut off valve, but it seems to be an outdoor bibcock I never knew about. I didn't want to try fiddling with it. I'm assuming I'll need to get the lot owner to shut off my water supply from something on his end. If I were to start replacing this, though, what would be the best way to connect the PVC to the metal valves? edit: Or should I be using CPVC? I can't seem to get a good answer because it seems the material (written, anecdotal, and actual physical products) I find about it for what I want to do seems like neither/both fit into what I want to do. PVC seems like there are far fewer available connectors out there for it, but it also says on everything that it's for 'pressurized cold water' (which I'm not sure how much pressure my incoming supply would have. It's also a more rigid pipe than the CPVC and I'm not sure if that makes connecting a heat tape to it safer or not. JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Oct 7, 2014 |
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Oct 6, 2014 18:24
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Leaking gate valve to the expansion tank. Leaking where the red arrows are pointed: It's not leaking at the stem its leaking at the valve body. Doing a few google searches it seems that everything is related to the packing nut and not the case that screws into the valve body. Are there repair kits for this or should I just replace it with a ball valve? Thanks
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Oct 7, 2014 21:57
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KennyLoggins posted:Leaking gate valve to the expansion tank. Leaking where the red arrows are pointed: That looks more like a globe valve than a gate valve. The good news is that globe valves can be serviced. Turn off the water, take out the stem and take it down to a mom and pop hardware store. They tend to have a better selection of washers for those things.
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Oct 8, 2014 00:06
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I'm having a weird problem with one of my showers. I live on the 17th floor of a 34 floor condo. Two bathrooms. One shower has no issues whatsoever, but the other...the temperature fluctuates wildly. It's a tub with a showerhead, and when water comes out of the tub faucet, the temperature stays constant. However when you put it up to the shower, it fluctuates like crazy. I've tried changing the cartridges, to no avail. Could it be the showerhead itself? This problem doesn't happen anywhere else in the house.
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Oct 8, 2014 23:27
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MA-Horus posted:I'm having a weird problem with one of my showers. Do you have access to the plumbing behind it (access panel in a closet in an adjoining room perhaps?). It would be helpful to see what it looks like before making a lot of assumptions about what might be a solution.
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Oct 8, 2014 23:54
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There is a small access panel underneath the vanity to get to the shut-offs. It's a little tricky to get to. But as for the piping to get up to the shower itself, no. There's no access at all. I don't think it'd be a feed issue, as the water coming thru the tub stays a constant temperature.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:00
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MA-Horus posted:There is a small access panel underneath the vanity to get to the shut-offs. Nothing that exposes the back of the valve(s)? The shutoffs are likely nowhere near where you need to see what's going on back there. I'm asking because I'm curious if there is a mixing/anti scald valve back there that has gone bad.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:01
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Motronic posted:Nothing that exposes the back of the valve(s)? The shutoffs are likely nowhere near where you need to see what's going on back there. No. The only shut-offs (that are 100% for the the tub/shower, as I used them to change out the cartridges) are about 5 feet to the left of the shower under a vanity. It's bare copper running behind the walls to the shower, with no further access.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:09
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MA-Horus posted:No. The only shut-offs (that are 100% for the the tub/shower, as I used them to change out the cartridges) are about 5 feet to the left of the shower under a vanity. It's bare copper running behind the walls to the shower, with no further access. Well, I'm out of good ideas. I'd want to see if there is something that can be pulled out of the wall the get behind it with an inspection camera to minimize damage.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:13
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Motronic posted:Well, I'm out of good ideas. I'd want to see if there is something that can be pulled out of the wall the get behind it with an inspection camera to minimize damage. Would changing out the shower head do anything? It's one of those handheld types.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:19
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MA-Horus posted:Would changing out the shower head do anything? It's one of those handheld types. I doubt it. That's long past where the hot/cold water should have mixed. This sounds like a bad valve or a bad separate anti-scald which may only be causing issues with increased back pressure (coming from the tap vs the shower head). Hopefully someone else reading will have run into this type of issue before and have some more ideas. The only times I've seen it have been bad anti scalds and I'm not about to suggest you to tear a wall apart to go on an recon mission for one.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:26
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MA-Horus posted:Would changing out the shower head do anything? It's one of those handheld types. The only thing I can think of is that there's not enough flow for whatever is regulating pressure. If you take off the showerhead will the temperature not fluctuate?
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Oct 9, 2014 01:02
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Qwijib0 posted:The only thing I can think of is that there's not enough flow for whatever is regulating pressure. If you take off the showerhead will the temperature not fluctuate? Good question. I'll test and find out.
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Oct 9, 2014 01:10
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kid sinister posted:That looks more like a globe valve than a gate valve. The good news is that globe valves can be serviced. Turn off the water, take out the stem and take it down to a mom and pop hardware store. They tend to have a better selection of washers for those things. Went to a plumbling supply shop and they said just to replace it. I can't find any parts for it online. So for an interim fix I unscrewed it out of the bonnet and put some thread tape on it and now it doesn't leak.
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Oct 9, 2014 04:06
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I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING. The toilet in that bathroom runs. It runs off the same cold-water feed that supplies the shower. If it runs while the shower is on, would THAT cause a fluctuation in temperature?
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Oct 9, 2014 22:34
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MA-Horus posted:I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING. Yes, and fixing the toilet is a cheap and easy fix.
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Oct 9, 2014 23:31
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WeaselWeaz posted:Yes, and fixing the toilet is a cheap and easy fix. ...that will pay for itself eventually
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Oct 10, 2014 03:20
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Speaking of cartridges, I'm having a hell of a time replacing one of mine. Naturally, it's stuck, I've destroyed everything plastic on it pretty much (it's a Moen 1222), but here's the stupid part. You know that clip that holds it in? Yeah, well the dumbfucks that built this place built the wall over it, so you cannot reach it without cutting into the wall. I really don't want to do this because it's tile. I managed to work it out with combimnation small phillips screwdriver/needle nose pliers. However, you cannot get the clip out in the open, it's just stuck behind the wall, so I left it sitting on top of the faucet. In my struggles to get this piece of poo poo out, it fell down the wall. It's gone forever. How important is this thing? Will the water pressure push the new cartridge out (assuming I ever get the old one out)? Can you buy new ones? I didn't notice any when I bought the cartridge.
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Oct 13, 2014 16:43
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Yes, that clip is important. You could try hitting up the manufacturer and see if that part is available separately. If all else fails, you could cut into the other side of that wall and install an access panel.
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Oct 13, 2014 19:04
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Machaon posted:Speaking of cartridges, I'm having a hell of a time replacing one of mine. Naturally, it's stuck, I've destroyed everything plastic on it pretty much (it's a Moen 1222), but here's the stupid part. You know that clip that holds it in? Yeah, well the dumbfucks that built this place built the wall over it, so you cannot reach it without cutting into the wall. I really don't want to do this because it's tile. I managed to work it out with combination small phillips screwdriver/needle nose pliers. However, you cannot get the clip out in the open, it's just stuck behind the wall, so I left it sitting on top of the faucet. In my struggles to get this piece of poo poo out, it fell down the wall. It's gone forever. How important is this thing? Will the water pressure push the new cartridge out (assuming I ever get the old one out)? Can you buy new ones? I didn't notice any when I bought the cartridge. You can cut the wall open enough to properly reach the retaining clip and still have the holy hidden behind the escutcheon unless things are weird in a way I've never seen. More than once I have used a grinder to slowly push back the edge of the tile so I didn't risk cracking tiles with a chisel. The retaining clip is 100% required unless you want the new cartridge to fly and your bathtub to be a really expensive private fountain. Keep in mind there are 2 main moen tools for pulling shower cartridges the main one you can find everywhere and then one that is shaped more like a T that you can use if you end up pulling out the center of the cartridge and the rest is still inside.
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Oct 14, 2014 03:07
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The water pressure in my house sucks. The plumbing is all PEX. I've made sure that the main water valve to the house is on all the way, so it's not that causing it. I've only had the house since June, so I don't know what the pressure was like before the PEX refit. Is there an easy and more importantly cheap way to increase the pressure?
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Oct 15, 2014 19:28
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BobbyDrake posted:The water pressure in my house sucks. The plumbing is all PEX. I've made sure that the main water valve to the house is on all the way, so it's not that causing it. I've only had the house since June, so I don't know what the pressure was like before the PEX refit. Is there an easy and more importantly cheap way to increase the pressure? http://www.supplyhouse.com/Cash-Acme-24438-SharkBite-Pressure-Gauge-with-3-4-Tee-Lead-Free Edit: wait a minute, just noticed the word "refit". Was it done a by an actual plumber or some craigslist clown? Nitrox fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Oct 15, 2014 |
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Oct 15, 2014 21:55
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Nitrox posted:Not unless there is an actual obstruction in a pipe that could be removed. ... Or a pressure regulator set too high.
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Oct 15, 2014 22:06
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About two weeks ago or so, I suddenly started having a noise issue when my well pump turns on. If the pump hasn't run for awhile, when it turns on there is a pretty loud banging, which you can hear upstairs. Been living in this house for going on four years, and never had this problem. I googled this of course, and I think it might be water hammer? From what I read, there might be a problem with a check valve or something. From what I can tell I don't see any check valves near my pump switch, though I think there's one on the pump itself. I took some pictures so you could see my setup. I'd like to have an idea of what's going on before I call a plumber. Thanks. 
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Oct 17, 2014 11:17
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porkfriedrice posted:About two weeks ago or so, I suddenly started having a noise issue when my well pump turns on. If the pump hasn't run for awhile, when it turns on there is a pretty loud banging, which you can hear upstairs. Been living in this house for going on four years, and never had this problem. I googled this of course, and I think it might be water hammer? From what I read, there might be a problem with a check valve or something. From what I can tell I don't see any check valves near my pump switch, though I think there's one on the pump itself. I took some pictures so you could see my setup. I'd like to have an idea of what's going on before I call a plumber. Thanks. your check valve: 
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Oct 17, 2014 21:09
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kid sinister posted:your check valve: So does that mean it is bad and needs to be replaced or is it something else?
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Oct 17, 2014 21:56
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Okay. I went to the store and got a bunch of supplies. But I'm not sure if I picked up a marvel/threaded adapter (I couldn't find anything labelled as such). So, here's what I got today: A. 1 1/2" ABS tubing B. Trap adapter for connecting my new sink C. New trap D. ??? (see below) E. No hub couplings. From left to right: 1 1/2" to 1 1/2", 1 1/2" to 1 1/2" (different size), 2" to 1 1/2" in. ABS cement is not pictured. I went a little... nuts. Only because I wasn't sure what I need to replace the trap assembly. All parts, except for the trap adapter and the 2" to 1/12 no hub coupling, are sized for 1 1/2". First off- are any of these that marvel threaded adapter you guys mentioned?  Second, I'm still unsure as to whether I should incorporate a no-hub coupling. I don't even know if I have everything needed to just get the job done. melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Oct 19, 2014 |
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Oct 19, 2014 06:54
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melon cat posted:I went a little... nuts. I find that all of my plumbing projects require multiple trips to the store. Fortunately this one only required two:  Did I do ok on this? Mom got new cabinets/countertop and the old sink drains didn't quite line up with old drain pipes. I installed the white pieces and capped off one side of the drain pipe.
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Oct 19, 2014 18:34
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melon cat posted:Okay. I went to the store and got a bunch of supplies. But I'm not sure if I picked up a marvel/threaded adapter (I couldn't find anything labelled as such). So, here's what I got today: Those aren't marvel adapters, B is. Yes, they have a few more names than "marvel" and "threaded". The no hub coupling is so that it makes it easy to take your trap apart to clear a clog. I would use one. Cpt.Wacky posted:I find that all of my plumbing projects require multiple trips to the store. Fortunately this one only required two: Not bad.
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Oct 19, 2014 23:11
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kid sinister posted:Those aren't marvel adapters, B is. Yes, they have a few more names than "marvel" and "threaded". And for the no hub coupling- where does it go? Directly onto the pipe coming out of my wall? After the elbow? melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 19, 2014 23:39
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