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YF19pilot posted:I can't reference a picture at the moment, but I would say in that case if the turret is identifiably different, then yes, but otherwise one mg type is not readably identifiable from another. But that may be something to work out with your group.
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Oct 13, 2014 04:09
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Numlock posted:I've never had a problem with it ether but there are guys out there who will argue it if it gets them an advantage (I've personalty not seen this) because of the "Major Fitting" clause. What is a major fitting? Only Phil apparently knows. Eh, I don't think it's too difficult to figure out, since the examples given are Schurtzen, Spaced Armor, and Dozer Blades-in other words, stuff that is either immidietely identifiable or radically changes the overall shape of the tank. So, the fuel trailer on a Churchill Crocodile would make it identifiable from a standard Churchill VII, but more minor stuff like AA guns and improvised armor wouldn't make the cut. At least, that's how I think the rule is supposed to be interpreted. Arquinsiel posted:I've managed to find literally no picture claiming to be one kind or the other, but I have found an opinion somewhere in my wanderings that claims that since they were both Vicker's machine guns the water cooling jacket used on them was externally the same size and the other difference was basically just how big the internal water reservoir was. That is such a minor difference that I would hope that people can be reasonable and determine that a difference that small cannot, in fact, be GT'd. Hope. On a related note, one of these days I'm probably gonna repaint my Shermans so they're all one color instead of being split between some being olive-drab and the rest army-man green as they are now, and when I do I'll probably try to incorporate some of the techniques allied tankers that drove up-gunned Shermans used to try and avoid getting picked out and blown up. Dazzle paint, fake muzzle brakes, all sorts of zany poo poo. It would certainly make arguing over what counts as identifiable features more entertaining!  
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Oct 13, 2014 04:34
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Noctis Horrendae posted:poo poo. Does anyone know of any pre-painted terrain that would work with Tamiya's 1:35 stuff? Mini Art is pretty much your only option and they ain't cheap or prepainted. Comedy Option: http://www.orientaltrading.com/cool-cardboard-city-bricks-a2-60_55.fltr?Ntt=block
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Oct 13, 2014 08:44
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I've built a kit from Mini Art: It was high quality, but definitely made for diorama modelling and not for miniature wargaming. It took quite a long time to build to make it look good, since you have to cut out all the pieces from a sheet, and spend lots of time on trimming and filling.
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Oct 13, 2014 10:19
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lilljonas posted:I've built a kit from Mini Art: They specifically make some kits that aren't as hard to build for more wargame style stuff. They are usually labeled as "building" kits instead of "diorama" ones and will feature buildings with all the walls and sides as opposed to the more standard facade style of most buildings in that scale.
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Oct 14, 2014 07:49
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El Estrago Bonito posted:They specifically make some kits that aren't as hard to build for more wargame style stuff. They are usually labeled as "building" kits instead of "diorama" ones and will feature buildings with all the walls and sides as opposed to the more standard facade style of most buildings in that scale. Cool, I didn't know this. I imagine that it would be possible to build a small board, like 4'x4' (which would be small for gaming at 1/35). Especially if you make just a few ruins/buildings and go heavy on bushes, walls and similar obstacles instead of buildings.
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Oct 14, 2014 07:56
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After running behind an M-22 Locust last weekend, I really want one for the tabletop. Anyone know of a 28mm version somewhere?
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Oct 14, 2014 14:26
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lilljonas posted:Cool, I didn't know this. I imagine that it would be possible to build a small board, like 4'x4' (which would be small for gaming at 1/35). Especially if you make just a few ruins/buildings and go heavy on bushes, walls and similar obstacles instead of buildings. There are 1/35th scale games? Seems like you'd be limited to infantry only at this scale.
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Oct 14, 2014 14:34
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Ensign Expendable posted:There are 1/35th scale games? Seems like you'd be limited to infantry only at this scale.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:57
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Ensign Expendable posted:There are 1/35th scale games? Seems like you'd be limited to infantry only at this scale. Any skirmish game can be played at 1/35, but I'd choose one with low model count. Half platoons should be a good starting point. Either think small (fewer troops) or big (large table or even outdoors). You can find infantry and vehicles at a price that is surprisingly comparable to 28mm. Google it and you'll find some awesome ww2 stuff for 54mm/1:35 scale. I remember a few tables from shows like Salute etc., usually big club collaboration tables. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 16:16
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 New project for various western/colonial American themed games.
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Oct 15, 2014 10:08
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The Official First Historical Thread Chain of Command Effort Post (I think?) Chain of Command (CoC) is a platoon level World War 2 skirmish game by Too Fat Lardies. It is quite good. It is growing in popularity. In this effort post I will try to give you a short introduction as to why. First, for people like me who don't know WW2 by the back of their hands, this is a platoon:  A Finnish platoon. Not featuring: their sauna CoC will let you command a single platoon, which is usually 3-4 groups of 10-14 men. It can vary depending on army list, but you'll need around 30-40 miniatures per side. There's a large number of army lists available for free, and both fan-made and official lists are released continuously on the CoC forums. Much of CoC is similar to what you expect from a modern skirmish game: you take turns, you move units around the board, you shoot at your opponents units. You roll to hit, you roll to kill or shock your opponent. Units can be pinned or even routed if they get a lot of shock and casualties. This is nothing to be amazed at: the basics work, but it's not why people are picking up this game instead of other WW2 games. So I will deal with the areas that are more fundamental to the flavour of the game.  A nefarious German squad sneaking about The Patrol Phase Now. You and your opponent each have a platoon of nicely painted miniatures before you. You choose a scenario, and you start to scoop up your minis to pour them on to the table. Not so fast! First we'll going to mess with your brain a bit. The game starts out with the first of several agonizing part: the patrol phase. Basically this represents your troops scouting out the area, moving nearer and nearer to contact with the enemy. Instead of a set deployment zone, you're going to take turns to move patrol markers, starting at your table-edge. A patrol marker can be moved 12" every turn, but all your markers must at all times be within 12" of another one of your patrol markers. Once a marker gets within 12" of an enemy marker, both are locked in place. Once one side has all their markers locked in placed, the patrol phase ends. Now here's the worst (and best) part. The patrol markers are not your deployment area either. That would be too simple. Instead, you have to place jump-off points. A jump-off point can be placed at least 6" behind one of your patrol markers, within a cone defined by the two closest enemy patrol markers. And it has to be directly behind cover. And they can not be in line of sight of the enemy. URRRRRH! Do you start to see how many ways you can gently caress up your opponents (and your own!) patrol phase?  Soviet and Russians, messing up each other's patrol phase The beauty of this is that you start the game without any troops on the table. In your turn you'll get opportunities to place your units on the table, but not necessarily all of them at the same time. It can even be advantageous not to place all your troops, as a unit that is still in reserves can turn up at any of your jump-off points. Which is good if you played the patrol phase well, and not so good if you suck and all your jump-off points are equally lovely. This way of deploying your troops is the first major advantage of the ruleset IMHO, since it is a game in itself and can have drastic effects on how the game plays out. Force composition Next, you want to have troops to deploy. It looks like a complete miss that I described the deployment phase before choosing your army, but you actually don't even know how much support you will get when you do your scouting patrol. Did your scouts work out this really good lane for a tank to drive into your opponents flank? Tough poo poo soldier you rolled low, you each get jack poo poo! Now adapt!  The right choice is always more vehicles Each army list consists of a basic platoon, a rating, and a list of available support options. Here is an example of an army list. "Army creation" consists of buying support options which gets gradually more expensive as you go from a minefield or a medic to a tank or an entire extra squad. You roll a die for how many support points you'll each get, and adjust it depending on how badly rated your troops are. So if a German regular platoon with +4 meets a Soviet green platoon with -3, the Soviet player will get 7 bonus points to buy support with. The Soviet troops themselves might be horrible excuses for soldiers, but they can be supported by a nice T-34 tank or two. To add fun to the mix, your support options are bought in secret. And your troops don't all deploy at the same time, and can turn up at any of the deployment areas. Do you dare approach that house, knowing that the bushes next to it could suddenly be populated by a flamethrower team? And can you keep your poker face when you realize that you forgot to buy any anti-tank weapons, and your opponent casually place a Sherman tank on his table edge? You also have a perfect excuse to buy way too many toys when you have to scrounge up something from the list on the fly every game instead of building a single army to field. Serious magpie points here. Once you start playing, the final major game component is the command dice.  Command dice Most armies have five. You roll them, you curse at them, and you try to use the options they provide you carefully. Each result on the die has a specific effect: 1: you can deploy or activate a single team. This can be a mortar team, the machine gun in a squad, etc. 2: you can deploy or activate an entire squad. 3: you can activate a junior leader (normally a squad leader, but could be a tank driver!), who can get his squad to do 2 things. Like, both fire and remove shock markers, since they get yelled at a lot. 4: you can activate or deploy a senior leader (normally your platoon leader), who can get a ton of stuff done. He can order several squads to act, remove shock, etc. 5: A SPECIAL DICE! Keep saving these up, and when you have a whole bunch of them you can spend them on funky special moves. Ambush with a bazooka team far from your jump-off points! Maintain your morale even though you don't deserve it at all because your troops die like flies! Interrupt your opponents turn whenever you feel like it! 6: The even more special dice! If you roll a single 6 it is a big waste of your time. If you roll double 6 you get to use up the dice you rolled and roll again, killing your opponents with ruthless efficiency while you cackle like a madman. If you roll three 6s the "turn" (which is more like a bunch of "traditional" turns in a row) ends, and some stuff like gas clouds and artillery barrages can end and routed units dissapear. But you get to act and roll the dice again anyway! Yay for you! Basically this means that it is very hard to predict with certainty how much your opponent will get done during his turn. You can assume that he'll get to do some things, as even a bad roll of the dice will usually end up with a possible squad activation or two. But it's a huge difference between that and a series of double turns. So you don't get the common situation of being able to move around with impunity since you know that your opponents troops are 8" away from seeing your troops. You just don't know. So you have to think more carefully. The bad side of this is that yes, you can get completely shafted by the dice. We've had two games this far where one side has been on fire, and there haven't been anything hat the other player could reasonably do about the final result. If you can't live with that occasional game, chances are you will hate Chain of Command. This far even most of the uneven games have, in the end, been quite close affairs. But if you can live with it, it makes every turn a lot more of a nailbiter than what you get in more predictable tabletop games These dice also makes all kinds of tuning of the platoon's quality possible. A crack platoon of specialist veterans can start with 6 dice, which will make them extremely efficient on the table, able to do almost whatever they want most of the time, and rolling a lot of double turns. A green platoon of new recruits can start with 4 dice, and spend much of the time picking their noses. As your morale starts to deteriorate as casualties starts to pile up, you also start to lose your command dice. In this way you feel the panic when your command over your troops starts to slip out of your fingers as they run deeper and deeper into trouble.  My ingenious German attack runs into unsuspected trouble as the Soviet player quickly redeploys his flank with a double turn If you want to expand the game you can download Big Chain of Command, which is an expansion where you use pretty much exactly the same rules but with more than one platoon. And they also have campaign expansions. And tons of new army lists posted on their website and forums. Did I mention that the army lists are free and you can play at any scale? So my recommendation is that you should give it a go if you have individually based minis for any other WW2 game. Except from the mechanics there are also a lot of other reasons why I personally prefer Chain of Command to say, Bolt Action. It is generally a but more realistic, and you don't get outright silly things such as heavy artillery standing 30 meter behind a squad, shelling the opponent. The relative efficiency of say, LMG compared to rifles seem better than in Bolt Action, and troops simply behave more like they'd do in reality. For example, an engineering team will do the job they are designed for (cutting barbed wire, blow up a fortification, fire their flamethrowers) and then pull back off the table instead of becoming some kind of commando troops that will crawl around and fire at the opponent. Chain of Command. A good WW2 skirmish game. You should try it if you like good WW2 skirmish games. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Oct 15, 2014 |
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Oct 15, 2014 22:23
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Nice! Added to the OP.
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Oct 16, 2014 00:06
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More of these fellows, pretty happy with how they turned out: 
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Oct 16, 2014 05:20
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Colonial Air Force posted:Nice! There's official YouTube tutorials up too, worth adding to OP too
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Oct 16, 2014 07:15
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Once I'm done with grad school apps and organic chemistry (oh god kill me) I was thinking about trying to run a lets play 2d Chain of Command game with goons taking squads. Do you guys think it's feasible?
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Oct 16, 2014 07:26
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Dirt Worshipper posted:Once I'm done with grad school apps and organic chemistry (oh god kill me) I was thinking about trying to run a lets play 2d Chain of Command game with goons taking squads. Do you guys think it's feasible? As something of a LP vet, yeah, it should be possible. Make sure you have somewhere you can leave the game set up for weeks on end though - either that or think about using a digital map with icons - if you have access to a photo editing program with layers, this should be easy as pie. In reality, your going to want some form of top down map that makes it a lot simpler for the players to see whats going on. The models will be great for the photos, but people giving orders need some clarity. If you need a hand with maps, send me a PM and I'll be happy to help out. Ninja Edit - take a look at my Combat Mission LP that's running at the moment, its the computerised version of what your planning, so it should give you and idea of what you're letting yourself in for.
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Oct 16, 2014 07:45
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Grey Hunter posted:As something of a LP vet, yeah, it should be possible. Make sure you have somewhere you can leave the game set up for weeks on end though - either that or think about using a digital map with icons - if you have access to a photo editing program with layers, this should be easy as pie. Thanks Grey, I'm actually participating in that CM LP. I was thinking some kind of grid with a measurement simplification could work. I have a lot of experience with photoshop so I'd feel comfortable with a layered top-down view.
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Oct 16, 2014 08:01
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Dirt Worshipper posted:Thanks Grey, I'm actually participating in that CM LP. I was thinking some kind of grid with a measurement simplification could work. I have a lot of experience with photoshop so I'd feel comfortable with a layered top-down view. So many people..... I lose track......  Well, you should be good to go!
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Oct 16, 2014 08:07
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Grey Hunter posted:So many people..... I lose track...... Haha, man I don't expect you to keep track of anything in that beautiful mess except for who's getting strafed.
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Oct 16, 2014 08:14
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Dirt Worshipper posted:Thanks Grey, I'm actually participating in that CM LP. I was thinking some kind of grid with a measurement simplification could work. I have a lot of experience with photoshop so I'd feel comfortable with a layered top-down view. I think it would be possible to play it as an umpire. It is tricky to have too many players, as each side decides what dice to use for which squads/teams etc. So you need someone who is calling the shots on each side. You could have one player per squad, but maybe just give them the option to give advice to the main platoon leader on each side? Or, if you go Big CoC, with two platoon leaders per side. Movements and such can be played out by each player giving general ideas of where they are moving. I think this would be hard to do otherwise, as you roll random movement. So you'd be working with "I move 1D6 towards the road in tactical formation", and then you roll the dice and they'll have to trust you to move as far as they can. It's a bit messy to do over the Internet otherwise, and movement and placement can be a bit fiddly compared to, say, a hexbased game.
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Oct 16, 2014 08:18
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El Estrago Bonito posted:More of these fellows, pretty happy with how they turned out: Those minis are crying out for some leaf litter.  http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/24
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Oct 16, 2014 14:34
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Indolent Bastard posted:Those minis are crying out for some leaf litter. I have some, but it just wouldn't work. For scale reference those are pennies they are based on.
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Oct 16, 2014 14:37
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I have some, but it just wouldn't work. For scale reference those are pennies they are based on. Bummer. I thought they were 28mm for sure.
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Oct 16, 2014 14:40
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Indolent Bastard posted:Bummer. I thought they were 28mm for sure. Both are 1/72, top one is Italeri and the bottom is Imex. http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=836 http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=405
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Oct 16, 2014 14:46
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Quick crosspost from the minis thread:TheBlobThing posted:We upped the model count in our Black Powder Waterloo armies to 8 bases per standard sized battalion, and I kind of like the results. Finished the bases on one, everything except grass on the other.
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Oct 16, 2014 23:32
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Dirt Worshipper posted:
Who makes these? I'm guessing Gripping Beast or Wargames Factory, but I'd like to know.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:41
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Those are gripping beast plastics. Having seen both those and the war games factory IMO the GB are much much better.
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Oct 17, 2014 21:25
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Dirt Worshipper posted:Those are gripping beast plastics. Having seen both those and the war games factory IMO the GB are much much better. The lack of GB archers is a little annoying. But you may be right that I have been convincing myself the WGF were ok when in fact they are just cheaper and a little more versatile. E: What do you do about Levies? Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 21:35
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Indolent Bastard posted:The lack of GB archers is a little annoying. But you may be right that I have been convincing myself the WGF were ok when in fact they are just cheaper and a little more versatile. Convert with bodies from a different box of plastics without chainmail etc.
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Oct 17, 2014 23:07
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Indolent Bastard posted:E: What do you do about Levies?
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Oct 17, 2014 23:12
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The WGF and the GB are fairly cross compatible as well, but the GB are certainly higher quality.
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Oct 17, 2014 23:46
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Any place to get GBP for less than $35 per box?
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Oct 18, 2014 05:43
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Indolent Bastard posted:Any place to get GBP for less than $35 per box? Ouch that's pricey- they can be picked up for under £20 in the UK.
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Oct 18, 2014 05:53
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I got my three early war FoW books in the mail today, Blitzkrieg, Hellfire and Back and Burning Empires, dat new book smell  Looking forward to dissecting them so that i'll have an idea of what I want to buy when i can afford to buy it
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Oct 18, 2014 10:13
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NTRabbit posted:I got my three early war FoW books in the mail today, Blitzkrieg, Hellfire and Back and Burning Empires, dat new book smell http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzer_38(t)
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Oct 18, 2014 11:43
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I knew I was deep in the grog when I ordered this 400 page book from Amazon
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Oct 20, 2014 02:07
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That just looks like a fun book TBH.
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Oct 20, 2014 02:36
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Spielberger owns and the Pz38(t) owns, you made a good life choice. Free up some shelf space, you can't ever buy just one!
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Oct 20, 2014 02:39
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I really want to build a 38(t) armored company now. Who does that in FoW? Hungarians?
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Oct 20, 2014 03:12
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