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I found another use for the Milwaukee 18v Drill.  Much faster than the hand crank. I'll also add that the driver is amazing.
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Oct 11, 2014 18:19
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I found another use for the Milwaukee 18v Drill. Now try it with the impact driver -- 4500 RPM of fresh-ground seasoning 
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Oct 12, 2014 00:21
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Motronic posted:Not if whoever is plowing for you uses and appropriate bucket. Well, that definitely adds another reason not to hire him again this year.
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Oct 12, 2014 05:27
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Zhentar posted:The bucket can be pretty rough on your sealcoat too Jokes on you when the power goes out in the snowpocalypse and you are left with 2 tracks of ice.
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Oct 13, 2014 02:07
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It gets the job done quite fast, though. My plow guy gets through my 300' driveway + turnaround in maybe 10 minutes.
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Sylink posted:Jokes on you when the power goes out in the snowpocalypse and you are left with 2 tracks of ice. Then you just strap on your skates, win/win.
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Oct 13, 2014 02:07
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Sylink posted:Jokes on you when the power goes out in the snowpocalypse and you are left with 2 tracks of ice. My driveway already gets turned into a sheet of ice when the power is on, so I'd still call it a win. (That and I can just put some salt on it). Bad Munki posted:Then you just strap on your skates, win/win. The top third of my driveway is close to 25% grade, so I think I'll pass on that.
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Oct 13, 2014 04:01
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Zhentar posted:The top third of my driveway is close to 25% grade, so I think I'll pass on that. What do you think this is, the OSHA.jpg thread? 
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Oct 13, 2014 04:16
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Zhentar posted:The top third of my driveway is close to 25% grade, so I think I'll pass on that. That'd be great for building up speed quickly right out the gate.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:46
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I'd like some suggestions for goggles or protective eyeglasses. I am considering the Dewalt DPG82-11Cs but I have no idea if they're what I'm looking for. What I really like is something that is clear and won't fog up, I got two glasses I don't use already because I don't see as well through them and/or they fog up, especially a problem in winter. e: Looking at Pyramex V3g right now, looks to be slimmer than the dewalts. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Oct 13, 2014 |
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Oct 13, 2014 06:18
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'd like some suggestions for goggles or protective eyeglasses. I am considering the Dewalt DPG82-11Cs but I have no idea if they're what I'm looking for. I know you post in TFR, so do you have a good set of shooting glasses? I use my Rudy Project frames with clear lenses indoors and with dark lenses outdoors for woodworking as well as shooting. They're ANSI Z87 rated (I know that doesn't necessarily mean anything for Finland) so they'll handle anything reasonable getting tossed around by wood tools.
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Oct 13, 2014 14:33
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Only some cheap scratchy ones that get fogged up the moment I put them on. I went and ordered those Pyramexe goggles since they where pretty cheap anyway.
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Oct 13, 2014 18:05
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Post a review, would you? Non-fog that actually works seems to be pretty hard to execute.
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Oct 13, 2014 18:32
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Anyone have experience with electric + gas nail guns? I opened up my Hitachi for the first time yesterday and tested it out on some casing work. I only used to drive 10-15 finish nails and i'm wondering how much use I should expect to get out of one of those air canisters?
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Oct 13, 2014 22:40
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Sointenly posted:Anyone have experience with electric + gas nail guns? I opened up my Hitachi for the first time yesterday and tested it out on some casing work. I only used to drive 10-15 finish nails and i'm wondering how much use I should expect to get out of one of those air canisters? eidt: Apparently the gas canisters are rated for 1200 "shots" which I assume means 1200 fasteners. HD sells the Hitachi gas cans for $6~ each (sold in 4 packs) I suppose it's not the cheapest way to drive a nail, but sure is nice not having to drag a compressor around.
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Oct 14, 2014 17:04
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-22-in-Corded-Hedge-Trimmer-HT22/203162431 I bought one of these guys last night to trim my tree after getting a love note from my HOA who do not understand what trees are supposed to look like. I have bougainvillea, an olive tree looking thing, a shrub, and a pepper tree. So, not really heavy duty stuff. Anyway, for one of the trees I had to climb all the way to to top of a 14" stepladder and flail the trimmer around wildly to get the last little stragglers up top and it didn't feel super safe (because it probably wasn't) I'm considering returning it and buying something similar, but on an extendable pole so I can avoid the ladder entirely for most of the tree, and not have to climb so high at the far end of my reach for the top of it. Any recommendations on a corded electric pole trimmer?
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Oct 16, 2014 21:45
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canyoneer posted:I'm considering returning it and buying something similar, but on an extendable pole so I can avoid the ladder entirely for most of the tree, and not have to climb so high at the far end of my reach for the top of it. Any recommendations on a corded electric pole trimmer? Harbor Freight has pole trimmers for about $80. I picked up one last year and it's been great.
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Oct 16, 2014 22:03
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I picked up this two years ago and it's done quite well. The pole isn't as easy to extend / collapse as I'd like, but I'd rather have that than have it flop around.
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Oct 16, 2014 22:11
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I'm planning to build a workbench when I move, and wanted to install a table saw as well as leave a drop in space for a router plate. Should I spend £100-200 on a real table saw to build in or can I mount my handheld circular saw in the table as well? For basic straight and angled cuts(no fancy stacked blades etc) will this do the job or will it make me regret the savings?
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Oct 17, 2014 09:51
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IMO, you won't get a real table saw for that (if you buy new anyway). I also have a tool question, hopeful for a fast reply since it might get sold:  Two records and a stanley, 70 euros. Any hand plane experts care to tell me if they look to be worth it?
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Oct 17, 2014 10:41
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Cakefool, £250, from what I understand Startrite is considered a good brand: http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/startrite-tilt-arbour-pannel-saw-ta3000-t84199.html Perhaps if you are near there, assuming you have the space for it, it's probably larger than what you imagined getting.
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Oct 17, 2014 11:34
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His Divine Shadow posted:IMO, you won't get a real table saw for that (if you buy new anyway). Those all look very clean, which is a good start. It's hard to tell if the price is fair just because that varies country by country. The biggest thing, which can't be seen from that picture, are whether or not the mouths are tight/unchipped (the first Stanley 70 I bought had both mouths chipped to hell and back). The Stanley 70 is also a rabbet plane and should have a fence which isn't in the picture. You can probably score one on ebay for not too much, if it didn't come with one (also make sure that the fence is actually square, the single post for the no 70's fence is a major design weakness). The other thing it should have is a small nicking blade on the right side of the plane. Sometimes it gets lost. Really, anything else is easily fixed. Sharpen the blades, make sure the totes are tight and shim them if they wiggle, and maybe flatten the sole of the record jack plane if you're planning on using it for finishing surfaces. They take some time to really learn how to sharpen, adjust, and use, so enjoy making shavings!
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Oct 17, 2014 14:19
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I got more pics of those and found out the big one was a Kunz (not a good reputation), not a Record or Stanley, and since the rebate plane, which I was most interested in, lacks parts I am not sure, not for the price anyway.
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Oct 17, 2014 15:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:Cakefool, £250, from what I understand Startrite is considered a good brand: Frustratingly I'm unable to buy right now, no space otherwise I'd be very tempted.
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Oct 17, 2014 16:20
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Cakefool posted:I'm planning to build a workbench when I move, and wanted to install a table saw as well as leave a drop in space for a router plate. Should I spend £100-200 on a real table saw to build in or can I mount my handheld circular saw in the table as well? For basic straight and angled cuts(no fancy stacked blades etc) will this do the job or will it make me regret the savings? I cant see how this wouldn't work for basic stuff. Would have to be careful as you'd not have any guards. etc... Supposedly Norm Abram's first table saw was a circular saw bolted to an upside down milk crate - if its good enough for him go for it!
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Oct 17, 2014 16:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:I got more pics of those and found out the big one was a Kunz (not a good reputation), not a Record or Stanley, and since the rebate plane, which I was most interested in, lacks parts I am not sure, not for the price anyway. Not worth if it's not a reputable brand. That looks like a #78 duplex fillister and rabbet plane. It's probably missing the depth stop as well as the fence.
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Oct 17, 2014 17:04
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Unfortunately it did and Kunz as a bad rep for quality to boot. I was primarily interested in the 78 and planes like it for making rabbets and dadoes and whatnot, they seem like they could be quite useful for a variety of tasks, esp. for me who do not own a router yet and might not for a while.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:36
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His Divine Shadow posted:Unfortunately it did and Kunz as a bad rep for quality to boot. I was primarily interested in the 78 and planes like it for making rabbets and dadoes and whatnot, they seem like they could be quite useful for a variety of tasks, esp. for me who do not own a router yet and might not for a while. Paul Sellers recently put up a free video on making a rabbet plane on his woodworkingsmasterclasses.com site. A Stanley 71 router plane is worth looking for too. There's also the poor man's hand router: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk
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Oct 17, 2014 19:47
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Cakefool posted:I'm planning to build a workbench when I move, and wanted to install a table saw as well as leave a drop in space for a router plate. Should I spend £100-200 on a real table saw to build in or can I mount my handheld circular saw in the table as well? For basic straight and angled cuts(no fancy stacked blades etc) will this do the job or will it make me regret the savings? People do mount circular saws upside down, look up John Heisz or Woodgears if you want to see it done about as well as it can be. It isn't something I'd recommend to a beginner but it is possible to do safely and accurately. If the saw is mounted securely with a secure rip fence, it's as safe as a jobsite saw (which are just factory versions of an upside down circ saw). Matthias claims his is more accurate than cheap table saws (and he's probably right). The kneejerk reaction will be people telling you it's unsafe, but what they are really saying is they don't trust you to do it safely. The question is do you trust you? As for router tables, they are super simple to make. Just make the top thick enough so it won't sag. I recommend 1" or thicker surrounding the router.
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Oct 18, 2014 00:13
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Paul Sellers recently put up a free video on making a rabbet plane on his woodworkingsmasterclasses.com site. A Stanley 71 router plane is worth looking for too. There's also the poor man's hand router: I'll second the Stanley 71 recommendation. Even if they look rough, they're easy to clean up. If the sole is really pitted, you can just make a wooden sole so that it rides smoothly. Original irons can be a little rough to find but the irons for the Veritas router planes fit it just fine. His Divine Shadow posted:Unfortunately it did and Kunz as a bad rep for quality to boot. I was primarily interested in the 78 and planes like it for making rabbets and dadoes and whatnot, they seem like they could be quite useful for a variety of tasks, esp. for me who do not own a router yet and might not for a while. I've seen Europeans dump on the Kunz planes, but cheap modern planes can be useful in learning how to fettle planes without the worry of screwing up something nice. I have a cheap Buck Brothers no 4 sized plane that was $20 at Home Depot and, while it's a piece of crap, I have gotten it to the point where I can get shavings thin enough to read through from it. I don't really reach for it now that I have a late 19th century Stanley no 4, but I learned a ton about sharpening, flattening, and adjusting the blade and sole with it. Waldstein Sonata fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 18, 2014 20:48
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Anyone try the Craftsman Bolt - On system yet? Seems cool, but I'm afraid of how durable or poorly built it is.
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Oct 18, 2014 21:08
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wormil posted:People do mount circular saws upside down, look up John Heisz or Woodgears if you want to see it done about as well as it can be. It isn't something I'd recommend to a beginner but it is possible to do safely and accurately. If the saw is mounted securely with a secure rip fence, it's as safe as a jobsite saw (which are just factory versions of an upside down circ saw). Matthias claims his is more accurate than cheap table saws (and he's probably right). The kneejerk reaction will be people telling you it's unsafe, but what they are really saying is they don't trust you to do it safely. The question is do you trust you? As for router tables, they are super simple to make. Just make the top thick enough so it won't sag. I recommend 1" or thicker surrounding the router. Heisz: http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/utility-table-saw-1.html Well that's reassuringly simple, I'm happy I can do that safely. Woodgears: http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/ I could work a Saturday or two overtime and buy a real saw, which would be a poo poo load quicker than me trying to copy that. Thanks though, Heisz' site particularly is full of fun stuff I want to make.
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Oct 18, 2014 21:09
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Haven't seen much talk about Porter Cable tools here. Bought this Drill/Driver combo the other day. Overall reviews seem to be great, what's the general opinion around here? Way more than I'll probably ever need, but if I need to rebuild my garage after my wiring escapades I'm off to a good start 
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Oct 19, 2014 01:00
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fknlo posted:Haven't seen much talk about Porter Cable tools here. Bought this Drill/Driver combo the other day. Overall reviews seem to be great, what's the general opinion around here? Way more than I'll probably ever need, but if I need to rebuild my garage after my wiring escapades I'm off to a good start I have the 18v model. The clutch is useless but otherwise has been very dependable, I use it frequently.
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Oct 19, 2014 05:03
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fknlo posted:Haven't seen much talk about Porter Cable tools here. Bought this Drill/Driver combo the other day. Overall reviews seem to be great, what's the general opinion around here? Way more than I'll probably ever need, but if I need to rebuild my garage after my wiring escapades I'm off to a good start
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Oct 19, 2014 06:58
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I've gotten a lot of mileage out of Porter Cable compressors and 18-23ga nailers, along with their routers too of course. I can't speak to any of their cordless tools though, I've used Makita for years now as well.
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Oct 19, 2014 07:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'd like some suggestions for goggles or protective eyeglasses. I am considering the Dewalt DPG82-11Cs but I have no idea if they're what I'm looking for. I'd also recommend stocking up on anti fog wipes to use on the glasses, or using the old miner's trick of applying some Barbasol to the glasses for an even cheaper option. I haven't tried that myself, but some of the underground crew I work with swear by it.
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Oct 19, 2014 16:28
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Has anyone here used a Talmeter? It's a swedish thing and people in swedish forums have been saying good things about it, looks like an interesting take on the tape measure http://www.hultafors.com/products/about-our-products/tape-measures-with-precision/talmeter/
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Oct 20, 2014 19:44
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Need some opinions... I have a whole house worth base and case to install and i'm sick of dragging my compressor around with me. I already have a Toshiba gas finish nailer so I've decided I want to try an 18v brad nailer (electric only, no gas) to round out the collection. I'm having a hard time deciding between the Dewalt and Ryobi models. Dewalt http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1...AQ&gclsrc=aw.ds http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-r...&q=Ryobi%20brad Both have great reviews, both have more than enough battery life for what I'll be doing with it. The major pro for the Dewalt is that I already have a ton of Dewalt 18v batteries lying around. On the other hand, it's 2.5lbs heavier than the Ryobi and the bare tool would cost me about $75 more than the Ryobi which comes with a battery and charger. The Ryobi seems solid and being lighter is a pretty big plus. I think the only real downside of the Ryobi is that i'd be adding yet another battery manufacture to my list. Sointenly fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 15:47
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http://www.enlistedauctions.net/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?benyoder10/8/1 http://www.enlistedauctions.net/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?benyoder10/140/1 Local auction, no way to know if this stuff works or not but the listings aren't big on the details. I've never heard of Century, but obviously I know powermatic. Anyone recognize the model of powermatic?
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Oct 22, 2014 16:12
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Daggerpants posted:http://www.enlistedauctions.net/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?benyoder10/8/1 The table saw looks like some version of the Model 66. Check this page and set the filter to table saws: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=655&tab=4 The disc sander is a Powermatic as well, I think model 35B. I'm guessing Century is just the manufacturer of the motor. http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=10124
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Oct 22, 2014 16:56
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