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Ugh. Yeah the only pissing on the floor I could deal with was my (almost) 21 year old cat. (he got pretty drat old) he passed last month is there a pouring a 40 out for a homie smilie?
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Oct 17, 2014 22:12
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Splizwarf posted:The what? That thread is really long. The Litter Robot, which is literally (litter-ally) in the OP of that thread 
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Oct 17, 2014 22:20
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:The Litter Robot, which is literally (litter-ally) in the OP of that thread holy crap that thing looks even more science awesome then mine.. does it have an optional jacobs ladder for the top???? Take my money. this is the most ridiculous derail ever.... sorry rugged construction manly men. TehRedWheelbarrow fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 22:25
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 This is a neighbor's house. He is apparently a hoarder and has to live elsewhere. Nice guy but his house is falling apart. Makes me sad that eventually he will likely lose the house and a developer will put some monstrosity in its spot. EDIT: Sorry bout the table destruction. Was posting on my phone where it looked fine. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 23:45
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Um, thing you could dial down the zoom a bit there, chief?
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Oct 18, 2014 00:05
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Dick Trauma posted:You built a two-story garage!?! yeah, garage with loft  and sunroom with woodstove  & bar 
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Oct 18, 2014 02:06
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PainterofCrap posted:yeah, garage with loft Lol I don't get it do you just really like carbon monoxide? Nah I'm just kidding. Some people really like the garage as a rec space although I don't always get it. Different strokes.
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Oct 18, 2014 03:33
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Does every wall in a foundation bowing in count as crappy old construction? Mind you sole plate isn't bolted to foundation walls and floor joists aren't nailed to sole plate. Entire house floating on foundation. ^^^ house I was supposed to close on today that an engineer discovered last minute after sellers tried to do a foundation repair between our last inspection and final walkthrough. 20-30k+ repairs plus gutting basement and a lot of the first floor to reattach structure to foundation. Will be a fun engineering report to read sometime next week.
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Oct 18, 2014 04:01
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NancyPants posted:Lol I don't get it do you just really like carbon monoxide? The garage is for cars & fixing stuff. The sunroom was a concession to my wife.
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Oct 18, 2014 06:39
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I was close at one time to building a garage with a full second floor, plus attic, and a full basement. And a 50 ft shooting range on the back. It was going to have a woodshop upstairs, a metal shop downstairs, and even a place to park cars! One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 18, 2014 14:23
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PainterofCrap posted:
My garage had this exact same wood stove in it. I finally managed to lug it to the corner for scrappers to pick up. drat thing is solid cast iron.
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Oct 18, 2014 15:14
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Dragyn posted:My garage had this exact same wood stove in it. I finally managed to lug it to the corner for scrappers to pick up. I have that stove too, except it's actually in the house proper. I'd kind of like one with doors you can see through, but I'm not looking forward to the prospect of trying to remove the current one.
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Oct 18, 2014 16:22
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One Legged Ninja posted:I was close at one time to building a garage with a full second floor, plus attic, and a full basement. And a 50 ft shooting range on the back. "Close" as in you told your drinking buddies how  it would be to have a garage clubhouse and they agreed or close as in you were about to actually make it?
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Oct 18, 2014 22:09
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Close as in I have the land, and had it perc tested for the septic system that I needed to put a bathroom in the garage. Then it flooded and ruined the trailer that I was going to live in while I built the house. Then I ran out of money. But I still have the blueprints on my computer somewhere.
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Oct 19, 2014 07:26
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Oct 19, 2014 07:52
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Aaahh, homebase. God that shop is lovely. I was so annoyed when they closed the B&Q in my town.
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Oct 19, 2014 10:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The thing that caught my eye first was the "inventive" mortaring. Oh the quality of building in my little development is awesome- Theres one house that the builders whacked a frame up, got a roof on it, wrapped it in sarking (NOT tyvek or anything even remotely water tight) and then left it the entire of winter without any brickwork. Because it was too wet outside, they went inside, put all of the rockwool up and then sheetrocked it. The walls went GREEN with mould in the paper. SO they painted over the green with 3 coats of paint instead of 2. Heard today that the subcontractor plumber they used on that house, and several others build by the same builder in the estate couldnt be bothered finding fresh potable water to pressure test the PEX lines in the walls with. So he just grabbed a bucket of water from the reclaimed lines that come back from the sewerage plant and used that. Then left that water in the lines for 16 weeks. Now the owners of the house cant use any of their rainwater or any tap on the rainwater circuit because they are getting massive big bacterial plaques floating through and blocking taps up and the E. coli levels in the water lines are about 10x the safe consumption level! At least our builder has proven competent so far- they havent managed to cock up pouring the slab!
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Oct 19, 2014 10:33
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ScottyWired posted:I live in a big Queenslander style house (well ventilated wooden houses on stilts) and it had been renovated a few years back. The most common job on Queenslanders is to jack up the entire house and put in taller stumps underneath. This create a big space to install new rooms, effectively turning it into a two-storey home. Well this a very interesting development: Duncan Chapman was the first Australian soldier to set foot on Gallipoli during World War One. Just last Wednesday, it was discovered that he grew up in my house. It's likely to become heritage listed soon, meaning it will never, ever be renovated again unless you pay out the nose for some dark paperwork magick.
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Oct 19, 2014 14:33
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storage space
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ScottyWired posted:It's likely to become heritage listed soon, meaning it will never, ever be renovated again unless you pay out the nose for some dark paperwork magick. House fires happen all the time...
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Oct 19, 2014 19:47
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ScottyWired posted:It's likely to become heritage listed soon, meaning it will never, ever be renovated again unless you pay out the nose for some dark paperwork magick. We have houses like that here in Philadelphia. You'd better get cracking on replacing everything you think might wear out before then. Including wallpaper & paint. It's a stone bitch once your domicile is declared an (a) historic site.
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Oct 19, 2014 23:45
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Here is my basement staircase featuring stylish elements of 1970s decor. My biggest concern is that there are no handrails and the passage isn't wide enough to properly install one without the door hitting it (the door opens towards the stairs). The only feasible solutions I can come up with are: 1 - Install a handrail, but stop shy about 2' from the top of the stairs - Not too thrilled about that. 2 - Remount the door so it opens outward into the upstairs hallway - seems like the best idea. Any better solutions?
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Oct 20, 2014 17:49
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Put the handrail in a pocket in the wall!
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Oct 20, 2014 18:08
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SkunkDuster posted:Here is my basement staircase featuring stylish elements of 1970s decor. My biggest concern is that there are no handrails and the passage isn't wide enough to properly install one without the door hitting it (the door opens towards the stairs). The only feasible solutions I can come up with are:  Please tell me that as you descend into the basement it spreads up the walls and over the ceiling until you arrive in the womb-like shag center of your domestic disco underworld.
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Oct 20, 2014 18:14
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Put the handrail on the side with the doorknob and you should be able to terminate it closer to the door, I would think.
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Oct 20, 2014 18:17
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Dick Trauma posted:
The basement walls are covered in thick shag carpet, but it is more for sound deadening than visual decoration. I'm afraid I don't have an exciting disco room in the basement - only the cistern room and my sewing room. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Put the handrail on the side with the doorknob and you should be able to terminate it closer to the door, I would think. That's the 2' I mentioned before. It would also be at the right height to bang your hip into the end of the handrail when going downstairs. I'm thinking that reversing the door so it opens outward would be best, but can you just remove the whole works and spin it around 180 degrees?
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Oct 20, 2014 18:28
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I have a stairwell where the handrail terminated about a foot earlier than you would expect. Not even a door there, I can only asume it was the result of laziness or stupidity. Anyway, it's a bit unnerving and I don't really recommend it. That said, are you able to have that door open outwards or is that a fire hazard thing? Just talking out of my rear end, but if that's the only exit from the basement it seems like that could be a problem- door could be blocked on the swing out side and trap someone. Not sure which situation is worse.
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Oct 20, 2014 18:37
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SkunkDuster posted:That's the 2' I mentioned before. It would also be at the right height to bang your hip into the end of the handrail when going downstairs. I'm thinking that reversing the door so it opens outward would be best, but can you just remove the whole works and spin it around 180 degrees? Hunh, wouldn't have thought it'd take 2' to get clearance. Hip-banging can be solved by having a smooth taper of the rail into the wall; you probably want to do that anyway. Even a 45° taper would be better than a blunt end. If you wanted to reverse the door, you'd also need to reverse its frame, which will probably involve having to scrape away paint to reveal fasteners (and having to cut through the paint that "connects" the frame to the wall). I guess maybe you could just spin the door within its frame if you were willing to chisel out space for the hinges and figure out how to reverse the strike plate.
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Oct 20, 2014 18:42
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I guess maybe you could just spin the door within its frame if you were willing to chisel out space for the hinges and figure out how to reverse the strike plate. This would be my suggestion since all the ugly old holes will be on the basement side.
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Oct 20, 2014 18:47
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SkunkDuster posted:The basement walls are covered in thick shag carpet, but it is more for sound deadening than visual decoration. I'm afraid I don't have an exciting disco room in the basement - only the cistern room and my sewing room. Whatever you say, Buffalo Bill.
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Oct 20, 2014 19:23
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Javid posted:This would be my suggestion since all the ugly old holes will be on the basement side. This is easy to fix, just cut the mortises out square, and glue patches in. Fit them tight enough, and a little wood putty and paint will make it all but disappear.
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Oct 20, 2014 20:48
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hunh, wouldn't have thought it'd take 2' to get clearance. Hip-banging can be solved by having a smooth taper of the rail into the wall; you probably want to do that anyway. Even a 45° taper would be better than a blunt end. I wasn't expecting to have to leave that much space either, but when I measured it out, that's about what it was. I think flipping the door and cutting new mortises for the hinges and strike plate is the way to go. I just pulled the trim off one side of the door to get a look at how the frame was installed and it looks like there is no way to remove it without destroying it or at least really loving it up. It is fastened to the studs with countersunk finish nails. I can't pull the nails by prying the frame boards away from the wall because the top and sides are connected by a double rabbit joint.
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Oct 20, 2014 20:48
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Cut the door in two halves like an old farm door, then cut a 6 inch part of the top half off where the railing would sit when the door is flush with the wall (fully open). Reattach this section with hinges, so when the door is closed it's a full door, when it's open it fits neatly over the railing  EDIT I just realized it would have to be at an angle to match up with the railing, so do everything I said except at an angle. Bonus crazy funhouse door settings when you're done! Shame Boy fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 22:37
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The door really should just open into the room/hallway above instead. Having a door open into a stairwell is probably a little more dangerous for guests looking for the bathroom, and it's annoying as hell for someone coming up the stairs who has to back down the stairs a step or two when they open the door.
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Oct 20, 2014 22:48
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Leperflesh posted:The door really should just open into the room/hallway above instead. Having a door open into a stairwell is probably a little more dangerous for guests looking for the bathroom, and it's annoying as hell for someone coming up the stairs who has to back down the stairs a step or two when they open the door. How about a pocket door?
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Oct 20, 2014 23:40
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Or a bifold!
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Oct 20, 2014 23:42
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Or a screen door so you can always know who's on the other side!
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Oct 21, 2014 01:47
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Xlorp posted:Or a screen door so you can always know who's on the other side! Like they use on submarines!
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Oct 21, 2014 01:50
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A centre opening bifold? That would let the banisters get closer to the doorway.
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Oct 21, 2014 01:57
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Overhead door like in a garage.
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Oct 21, 2014 02:00
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Nah, go with a gullwing door, like the DeLorean had.
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Oct 21, 2014 02:06
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