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Cage posted:Do you have a factory radio or aftermarket, what kind of vehicle? factory at the minute. I drive a Vauxhall Astra  but in the USA it's known as the Saturn Astra IIRC.Basically what I want is a usb slot/iPod functionality which is pretty standard I guess, so I can play a shitload of music from a tiny thumb drive. If I was to put my entire music library on a huge memory stick then are they generally easy to browse artists/albums on the player itself? I don't want to have a detachable faceplate so I'm going to go double-din. I'm worried about the steering wheel controls not working though.
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Sep 8, 2014 22:50
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There's adapters to make the steering wheel controls work with aftermarket stereos. Also, the factory radio may be able to play CDRs that are full of MP3s, depending on year model. At least, the US market version could (but we only had it for 2-3 years, and only in mk5 trim). It's a decent stopgap until you get a new stereo.
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Sep 8, 2014 23:31
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Sorry if this question is painfully common, but i have a stereo that gets power but no sound. How much should it cost to have a guy troubleshoot (and fix) the issue. I bought the car used so i have no info about the installation or anything
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Sep 9, 2014 00:46
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Jellidelic posted:Sorry if this question is painfully common, but i have a stereo that gets power but no sound. How much should it cost to have a guy troubleshoot (and fix) the issue. Do you know if the stereo is original or aftermarket? If it's aftermarket, my guess would be that the previous owner had a system with amplifiers installed and when they got rid of the car they just yanked the amplifiers. If that is the case, then you'd probably have some disconnected speaker wire ends in the back of your trunk or somewhere, as well as possibly power and rca cables. The cost to fix your problem will depend on if you're dealing with an aftermarket install of something that has gone wrong with the factory install. If your factory head unit has gone kaput, you're looking at the price of a head unit install ($50-150) and the cost of a new head unit. If you're dealing with an aftermarket install, it could be as simple as just popping the covers off of the speakers, unscrewing them, and reconnecting the factory wiring which would presumably be dangling right there. You could easily do this yourself, or pay a reputable shop whatever they charge for 1-2 hours of labor.
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Sep 10, 2014 13:28
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Thirteenth Step posted:factory at the minute. I drive a Vauxhall Astra If you're lucky enough to have the right factory head unit, you could possibly add a £9 adapter and gain an auxiliary input. This wouldn't allow you to control your music via the head unit, you'd just plug your phone or mp3 player in and use the controls on that, but it'd certainly be cheap. This link to the adapter on Ebay tells you how to know if your head unit is compatible. Thirteenth Step posted:Basically what I want is a usb slot/iPod functionality which is pretty standard I guess, so I can play a shitload of music from a tiny thumb drive. If I was to put my entire music library on a huge memory stick then are they generally easy to browse artists/albums on the player itself? It's possible, but from the head units I've tried, and I've tried a lot, it's not exactly what I'd call a satisfying user experience. This can vary depending on how big your entire music library is. A 64GB or larger usb drive full of albums can take as long as a couple of minutes to load every time you start your car, depending on the head unit. They also tend to be extremely tedious to browse, with trying to get to a folder named something late in the alphabet possibly taking many minutes of scrolling through your file list. I've also never seen a head unit that supported playlists. The options that I've found to be the most tolerable are either to use a head unit with Ipod support and use an Ipod classic with a large drive; this allows you to browse albums and search much as you would on the Ipod normally. Otherwise, I find it to be much more tolerable to use a smaller usb drive, forgo trying to keep my entire music collection with me and just make a few folders full of your favorite songs, and maybe a small handful of your favorite albums in their entirety. Obviously, you'll need to play with a head unit or two to see what you think for yourself, but that's my $.02.
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Sep 10, 2014 18:04
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(Cross-posting from the Panther thread, thanks audio thread for your advice) Old and busted:  New hotness:  Sorry for the potato-quality picture there. It actually looks really good and blends in quite well! Bluetooth streaming works and if you press the arrows, it skips to the next song. Phone calls work too.
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Sep 11, 2014 04:58
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Pham Nuwen posted:It actually looks really good and blends in quite well! Bluetooth streaming works and if you press the arrows, it skips to the next song. Phone calls work too. No pics but I got my Blaupunkt Syndey 220 BT plugged in a couple of nights ago. I'm really pleased with it. The bluetooth works well; It will pick up a device in the back of the car no problem, when you get back in it will pick up the device again and carry on playing where it left off. I haven't tried the phone yet. The most impressive thing so far to me is, oddly, the radio. It's picking up stations I've never been able to listen to before and with good clarity, including BBC Radio Devon over 100 miles away. Only thing I needed to plug it in to the Subaru ('96 Legacy) was an antenna adapter.
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Sep 11, 2014 09:27
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ReelBigLizard posted:No pics but I got my Blaupunkt Syndey 220 BT plugged in a couple of nights ago. I'm really pleased with it. The bluetooth works well; It will pick up a device in the back of the car no problem, when you get back in it will pick up the device again and carry on playing where it left off. I haven't tried the phone yet. Yeah, the phone works ok, but that's about a thousand times better than the ones where you have to mic it yourself (the mic is in the headunit). I wouldn't neglect going into the settings and messing with stuff in there; you can do all sorts of stuff like de-activate tuner bands you don't use.
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Sep 11, 2014 10:04
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Mr. Beefhead posted:If you're lucky enough to have the right factory head unit, you could possibly add a £9 adapter and gain an auxiliary input. This wouldn't allow you to control your music via the head unit, you'd just plug your phone or mp3 player in and use the controls on that, but it'd certainly be cheap. This link to the adapter on Ebay tells you how to know if your head unit is compatible. That's useful thanks! Having to browse my entire collection to find something on the head unit would annoy me a bit. I've been trying the MP3 CD approach that another user suggested and it's a bit better so just to save stress/money i might just stick with that until I get a car that properly supports it.
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Sep 11, 2014 11:57
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So after a couple months of my gf and now I being rear ended I've had my curiosity about car dvr's peaked. First, is there a car stereo that does front and rear dvr or do you need to still go to stand alone systems? It would be pretty sweet to replace my car head unit, stick a 32GB sd card in, and have front and rear cameras. Seems like most I've seen is just for backup cameras. Second, what stereos do you guys recommend for a basic unit? I seem to like jvc a lot but they also seem to fail in the same manner (on my third) where the sound starts cutting out in a speaker or two till you turn the audio back up. This happens even on a fully externally amped one. Also, if I am going to replace I would look bluetooth and really like the ability to use usb or sd cards but a lot are lovely with a lot of music. Have they fixed that yet?
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Sep 14, 2014 03:36
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I've yet to see a combination DVR + stereo. For now you're best off going with a standalone camera (or two). I used to recommend the G1W, but quality is spotty. The dashcam thread is here. Most of the ones goons are using are under $100. I have two G1Ws, but one of them is very unreliable with powering off properly (it sometimes stays on and shows the charging icon until the battery dies). The other loses the date/time/settings occasionally. Alpine, Kenwood, and Pioneer all make solid units. One of my coworkers just got this Pioneer, while I've had this slightly higher end version for a few weeks. I like the looks of the 6600 better (especially since it has a few extra buttons that can be used to directly access radio presets), but my 8600 has HD Radio (my market - DFW - has a surprising amount of HD-only stations). Both have bluetooth and USB support. The 8600 I have has a rear USB port and included cable - I have it tucked into the glove box. The 6600 has it on the front. I haven't tried it out in any way though; I'll probably copy some music to a thumb drive and see how much of a PITA it is to navigate soon. I've noticed that the microphone on mine doesn't seem to be very sensitive - people complain I sound distant, even though I have it on the top of the A pillar and aimed at my face. 
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Sep 14, 2014 06:52
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I need some advice before i burn my car down: I've just installed a new head unit All-in-one-wonder copy from china, and the radio reception is poor (don't laugh). In the instructions it says that in case of poor reception you have to skin the antenna cable and attach a 12V power cable that comes out of the radio module. The problem is that i think that's what it says, because it's in "english". So just to be sure, is this a thing that would help with reception, or am i going to cause something catastrophic? The power cable is a blue cable that comes out of the radio connection box thing and you're supposed to connect it to the (also blue) cable that ends in an antennae. Killstick fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Sep 17, 2014 |
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Sep 17, 2014 09:50
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Yes, that sounds legit to me. Some cars have antennas that need to be powered. There's very rarely any reason to not connect every reasonable matching connection that exists on both the car and radio's harness, and that usually only applies to the dimmer.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Sep 17, 2014 |
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Sep 17, 2014 10:06
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Had to hack a little mounting ring up out of a scrap of shutter ply but I got the new speakers into the doors on the Subaru. No more robot farts for me!
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Sep 17, 2014 10:37
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Lowclock posted:Yes, that sounds legit to me. Some cars have antennas that need to be powered. There's very rarely any reason to not connect every reasonable matching connection that exists on both the car and radio's harness, and that usually only applies to the dimmer. There is no connection, i'm supposed to skin the antennae cable and attach the power cable "wherever" on the antennae... hence my apprehension. Still fine? I'll post a picture when i get home.
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Sep 17, 2014 11:50
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Are they asking you to cut up the actual antenna signal cable, or some little power harness that attaches to the antenna amplifier? Post their actual instructions and maybe a picture of what they're asking you to do, because I've never heard of having to do something like that before.
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Sep 17, 2014 12:39
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Lowclock posted:Are they asking you to cut up the actual antenna signal cable, or some little power harness that attaches to the antenna amplifier? Post their actual instructions and maybe a picture of what they're asking you to do, because I've never heard of having to do something like that before.  That blue cable is the 12V power cable, Q: "There is a blue cable with radio antenna adapter, where does it go to for?" A: "It is a booster for the radio antenna, it goes to blue cable ANT-C or orange cable APM-C." This question and answer is nonsensical to me, since the blue cable is either the one pictured, or the radio antenna itself. Nevermind, i'll have to look at it again tomorrow. Now that i read this again i realize that it doesn't actually say to skin it, that's the previous instruction: "If you have a 40-pin connector (i do) then cut the brown cable from the CANBUS, skin Orange cable, connect brown to orange. (Do not cut orange, it powers your amplifier)." Well this is pretty straight forward... so uh i'll be back when i have a question that makes sense, it's bound to happen eventually. If anyone could tell me what that is on the picture (blue cable that ends in crocodile teeth) and what it is usually used for i'd be grateful. Killstick fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 17, 2014 20:47
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I noticed my left front door speaker is not working. How hard would it be to replace / repair that? I'm thinking especially about diagnosing it. If it's the speaker itself that's not working, can i just replace it with some off the shelf thing or do i need to get a replacement from BMW (i'd rather kill myself). Any tips on how to diagnose something like that?
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Sep 18, 2014 08:41
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Killstick posted:I noticed my left front door speaker is not working. How hard would it be to replace / repair that? I'm thinking especially about diagnosing it. If it's the speaker itself that's not working, can i just replace it with some off the shelf thing or do i need to get a replacement from BMW (i'd rather kill myself). Any tips on how to diagnose something like that? Fairly easy to replace if it's just the speaker. You should really find out if it's the speaker though, and not a loose connection; it's not common that a speaker just stops working, without sounding like dog poo poo for a while before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO4UnUv_ZR8
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Sep 18, 2014 09:21
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Wasabi the J posted:Fairly easy to replace if it's just the speaker. You should really find out if it's the speaker though, and not a loose connection; it's not common that a speaker just stops working, without sounding like dog poo poo for a while before. Thanks for the link! The speaker was broken when i bought the car so i don't know what it sounded like before.
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Sep 18, 2014 09:40
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Is a wiring harness specific to a particular make of vehicle or the brand of head unit? I installed a Sony head unit like 8 years ago and figure that I deserve an upgrade to something with modern tech, but don't know how simple the changeover process will be. Will any head unit more or less just snap in with the existing wiring harness that I put in previously? Should I stick with a newer Sony head unit? None of the above?
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Sep 25, 2014 19:51
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Teeter posted:Is a wiring harness specific to a particular make of vehicle or the brand of head unit? I installed a Sony head unit like 8 years ago and figure that I deserve an upgrade to something with modern tech, but don't know how simple the changeover process will be. Will any head unit more or less just snap in with the existing wiring harness that I put in previously? Should I stick with a newer Sony head unit? None of the above? You should ideally have two harnesses spliced together. One that plugs into the factory harness so that you aren't cutting the factory wiring, and the other came with the head unit and plugs into it. The new head unit should come with its own harness side for the head unit and you can remove the old stereo's harness and connect the new one to the car adapter harness. That seems so confusing in my head to put into words, but it is pretty simple visually.
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Sep 25, 2014 20:05
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Aflicted posted:You should ideally have two harnesses spliced together. One that plugs into the factory harness so that you aren't cutting the factory wiring, and the other came with the head unit and plugs into it. The new head unit should come with its own harness side for the head unit and you can remove the old stereo's harness and connect the new one to the car adapter harness. That seems so confusing in my head to put into words, but it is pretty simple visually. I think this makes sense to me, but things are hazy as it was like 8 years ago that I installed it. I think it's a moot point though since I was trying to skip a step and I realize now that it's probably not worth it. I can easily buy a new wiring harness to attach to whichever new head unit I buy rather than try to save a few minutes/dollars by trying to re-use the existing one. I'll have to do some soldering either way and the things are only a few bucks after looking into it more.
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Sep 25, 2014 20:22
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You can use your existing one as long as you didn't cut it really short. If you stick with Sony, there's a slight chance (slight) that you can just plug the new stereo into your existing wiring. You can definitely use your existing antenna adapter, if you had to use one. Same with the mounting kit, if you're sticking with the same size (single DIN, double DIN, etc).
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Sep 26, 2014 09:47
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Does anyone have any experience with MusicarNW? I'm talking to them right now about upgrading the stereo in my 135i and the fact that they handle putting together the adapters, harnesses, retrofit body panels for tweeters etc is kinda nice. Their stuff seems pricey to me, but then again I have little experience with some of the stuff they are suggesting as components. Has anyone used Morel, Helix, or Jehnert speakers? What about ARC amplifiers?
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Sep 29, 2014 18:31
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Thanks for the help with my questions earlier. The install was really straightforward and went down without any issues. My new question, however, is what I can do to get the best sound out of this. The old HU had some great EQ settings that I really liked without needing to do much tweaking. This one seems to have a bit more settings overall but it has to be done manually so I've struggled to find the right combo I'm looking for. Does anyone have a link to a good guide for initial setup of a mostly stock system? i.e. I don't know what the practical effects of LPF or HPF are, nor do I know about things like Sony's clearaudio or DSEE jargon. I can flip them on or off and compare a difference but I don't know how to integrate that with the overall setup of all the settings. I understand that there's a process of starting with a flat EQ and gradually building toward your desired sound but I don't know the best order of those steps since every guide I dig up focuses on amp/sub settings.
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Oct 1, 2014 00:45
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Cross post from the BMW thread: is there any device that can function as a bluetooth audio receiver and then simulate USB audio input the current 3 series system will play? I bought a Blackberry bluetooth music adaptor which works just fine but the car will not recognize it when plugged into the armrest USB port, only the analog stereo aux input. That works fine but the sound quality might be better otherwise, I think.
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Oct 1, 2014 05:25
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BEHOLD: MY CAPE posted:Cross post from the BMW thread: is there any device that can function as a bluetooth audio receiver and then simulate USB audio input the current 3 series system will play? I bought a Blackberry bluetooth music adaptor which works just fine but the car will not recognize it when plugged into the armrest USB port, only the analog stereo aux input. That works fine but the sound quality might be better otherwise, I think. I think the armrest USB port is specifically looking for a file structure with file extensions it recognizes. In my 135i, it will not read or even allow me to select the USB input if there is not a playable media file on it. The adapter would have to be able to emulate this structure for the car to access it, say it presented the car a single mp3 that was really a constant stream. I don't know of any adapters that would do this. There are other options out there though. I have no personal experience with these, but have seen them mentioned on forums as being good, just pricey. http://www.dension.com/ Teeter posted:My new question, however, is what I can do to get the best sound out of this. The old HU had some great EQ settings that I really liked without needing to do much tweaking. This one seems to have a bit more settings overall but it has to be done manually so I've struggled to find the right combo I'm looking for. Does anyone have a link to a good guide for initial setup of a mostly stock system? LPF is Low pass filter. You use this to filter out frequencies above the set frequency of the filter. Common usage would be to set it at 80hz for a subwoofer channel so that it only saw frequencies it could cleanly and efficiently play. HPF is high pass filter. You use this in much the same way as the LPF, but it filters out frequencies below the set point. This would be used commonly to filter out the lower frequencies and only present your midrange and high frequency speakers with content they can efficiently and cleanly play. You really set these up front and don't change them again. Check the frequency response of the speakers you have and pick the filter points accordingly. Clearaudio and DSEE sound like Sony only modes that probably do some kind of timing/delay changes for imaging or clean up/equalizing the source audio. Never used them so you'll have to find out more from the manual. Most of the settings you get on an amp can be replicated in the HU. If you HU can do it, its easier to do there rather than digging around for the amp. The only setting I really set on my amp is the gain. There are lots of schools of thought on how to 'correctly' setup a car stereo, but they all ultimately in my opinion arrive at the same end. The goal is to present your speakers with frequencies that they can cleanly play without distorting at volume levels that you typically play. Gain on an amp is not volume, so don't use it that way. How you make it sound is largely personal preference and plays into the music you listen too. You can't really screw anything up too bad unless you have a lot of power behind the system so just play with it and experiment. Don't like it, change it back and keep going. I was always constantly playing with the EQ on my last stereo and had a different setup every week.
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Oct 1, 2014 12:51
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Thanks for the advice. That's what I figured with respect to the file system and it's probably too much cleverness to expect from a dongle with one specific purpose. The real solution is to just get the car with enhanced bluetooth but mine was off the lot without it.
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Oct 1, 2014 13:08
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BEHOLD: MY CAPE posted:Thanks for the advice. That's what I figured with respect to the file system and it's probably too much cleverness to expect from a dongle with one specific purpose. The real solution is to just get the car with enhanced bluetooth but mine was off the lot without it. You can look into retrofitting it yourself if you want the factory integration. I am sure it is covered on one of the BMW forums somewhere. Be sure to make sure that it supports the A2DP profile though. That is the protocol that handles the streaming audio, and is sadly still not universally implemented on every car/bluetooth package. I think it is rare not to have it but my 135i doesn't and my Subaru does.
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Oct 1, 2014 13:39
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Teeter posted:i.e. I don't know what the practical effects of LPF or HPF are To add slightly to what Afflicted said - you don't really need to think about LPF and HPF settings if you're just using the stock speakers. Once you add a sub to the mix, then you'll need to worry about filters. Even then, it's usually pretty safe to set them to 80-120 hz (depending how boomy you like your music and on the type of sub you're using). The EQ settings depend entirely on what you listen to, on your car, your speakers, the individual album, and especially on your hearing. I grew up in the 80s and 90s listening to rock, metal, punk, etc.. so I tend to add a little bass, remove some midrange, add treble, and crank it up loud (also known as the smiley curve if you have an actual EQ to deal with, but also seen frequently as the generic rock preset). This may or may not work for you.
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Oct 2, 2014 10:48
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I figure this is the place to ask. I want to power a few devices (inverter, small ham radio, extra cigarette outlet) directly from the battery. I'd like to add a switch that has 3 positions: 1) always on 2) always off 3)switched by the relay. I also am curious if there's a preferred way to split the power once it's inside the car. Separate question: is there a way I can install a deep cycle battery in the stock second battery location and not spend a bunch of money on an expensive isolator, but not have to worry about running the starting battery down, but still have the deep cycle charge when the vehicle is cranked?
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Oct 10, 2014 05:02
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Anyone here familiar with the Bose system on a Mazda 3? Just bought a 2010 Mazda 3 with that system and want to get more low range out of it and clean it up a bit if I can... Thinking of removing the Bose sub and putting in a powered sub unit. Is that something reasonably easy/inexpensive to do?
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Oct 21, 2014 14:56
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PuTTY riot posted:I figure this is the place to ask. I want to power a few devices (inverter, small ham radio, extra cigarette outlet) directly from the battery. I'd like to add a switch that has 3 positions: 1) always on 2) always off 3)switched by the relay. I also am curious if there's a preferred way to split the power once it's inside the car. You'll want to split the power using a bus bar if you're going to use that many devices on the one battery, if you draw that much power through too thin a wire you're going to fry fuses or worse, your wiring (and burn down your car why not). This page is explains things pretty well on the charging/isolation front - http://highfields-arc.co.uk/vehicles/auxchg.htm I live on my boat and use the diode method outlined. You would need to add a three way switch and a relay for the functions you want but it wouldn't be much more work. You may want to look at beefing up your alternator too.
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Oct 21, 2014 15:18
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Jerome Louis posted:Anyone here familiar with the Bose system on a Mazda 3? Just bought a 2010 Mazda 3 with that system and want to get more low range out of it and clean it up a bit if I can... Thinking of removing the Bose sub and putting in a powered sub unit. Is that something reasonably easy/inexpensive to do? I can't speak directly to the setup on the Mazdas, but I have dealt with the Nissan and Mercedes implementation. The head unit is likely outputting to an amp/processor somewhere, likely the trunk and the signal is likely to be line level. The amp/processor is likely applying some EQ settings and frequency filters to the channels, and the drive impedance is probably on 2ohm, or worse something obscure. You could use the line level out going to the factory sub as an input for an amp and sub setup. Make sure the amp can accept line level inputs and will let you set a filter at say 80hz to make sure the sub only sees what it can reproduce. The potential pitfalls here are if the factory amp outputs something funky like a balanced line, then you will need an amp that supports balanced inputs. I'm not sure how many other cars use them, I just know BMW does and that it is a PITA. The amp could also be sending a broader frequency range to the rear sub and relies on it to fill in the lower mid-range. This will leave you with a gap when you put in a true sub woofer. Adding a sub to a system like this is not as complex as changing the speakers though so you should be fine.
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Oct 21, 2014 15:36
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I'm attempting to install subwoofers in my 2006 Mercedes E350. I aim to do this with a line out converter using the signal from the stock sub. I spent 3 hours taking apart the back seat and incredibly confusing headrests to get at the rear deck and the sub, and found that there are four wires going into it: The two toward the driver's side are brown and brown/light brown, and the two on the passenger side are red and red/brown. I am guessing these are left and right audio, respectively, and the striped ones are negative (please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm a total newbie at wiring). I got this PAC SNI-35 LOC from Amazon, so would I just hook up the four inputs to left and right positive and negative, one-to-one, then continue on with my installation? Also, does it matter (for the pair of subs going in) if left and right are mixed? Thanks! I am very excited to have subs again after a solid year of not having any, and would like to not have anything explode. Also, while I'm asking, does anyone know if there's a way to exceed the volume limit that the stock Mercedes COMAND system seems to have in place? It gets plenty loud, but it could be louder, I'm sure. Last question: What is the consensus on leaving the stock sub operational and just tapping the wires for the signal; muddled bass, or more = better?
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Oct 22, 2014 08:53
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This is just a random guess, as I know nothing about Mercedes. But I think you may be looking at a dual voice coil sub, instead of a more traditional single voice coil sub. Google suggests the stock amp is in the left side of the trunk, but doesn't go into much more detail. This is something where I would really suggest contacting Crutchfield, and giving them money to make your upgrade possible. Or find a high end car audio shop.
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Oct 22, 2014 09:51
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Samsquamsch posted:I'm attempting to install subwoofers in my 2006 Mercedes E350. I aim to do this with a line out converter using the signal from the stock sub. I spent 3 hours taking apart the back seat and incredibly confusing headrests to get at the rear deck and the sub, and found that there are four wires going into it: It is indeed a dual voice sub. This is how Crutchfield says you can do it:  Maybe this could help (open in new tab for huge).  I would honestly think about paying someone if you're not replacing the whole system, at this point, as they haven't made it very easy to do. This thread on E90 is one of many that discuss the "easiest" way to upgrade the stock sub.
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Oct 22, 2014 10:19
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Dual Voice Coil sub. You only need to get a feed from one of the pairs. They are presenting identical input to the speaker. You can use an LOC to take the speaker level and convert to a low level RCA output for the sub amp, or you can just wire the speaker level input into the sub amp. Most amplifiers will accept that input. Use the filters on the amplifier to filter out everything above the response range of the sub you are using (80hz is a good mark). I don't know that the MB setup is using balanced inputs like the BMW setup that was posted from E90. BMW systems are a different breed and a pain in the rear end. You aren't replacing all the speakers either so you really don't NEED something like a clean sweep. I am almost positive though that your factory radio is applying its own EQ settings though so you may have to play with the gain on amp to blend it in. This is a somewhat crude way to do it (It doesn't really change the EQ emphasis), but you save yourself $300 if you can make it satisfactory for your tastes. The JL CL is pretty much a must have though if you go down the route of replacing all of your speakers.
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Oct 22, 2014 12:54
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In my defense, that was where most of the research material was coming up when looking for the Logic7 system, which is what comes up when you reference the manufacturer numbers on his sub. Both maunfacturers use it.
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Oct 22, 2014 14:27
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