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If you're desperate for 1/72nd stuff and you have money to burn then Matt Hingley of Elheim minis takes commission orders. Tell him what you want and he'll work out a price. A bunch of my friends did Irish Defence Forces stuff with him, and paid about £20 a miniature IIRC. That included a copy of the final figure, and they're up for sale on the website now so it's well worth doing if a bunch of guys put cash together for something that you can get a lot of use out of.
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Oct 22, 2014 02:36
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Indolent Bastard posted:6mm Saga is even cheaper This seems amazing. What are you using for basing and measurement scales? I'm building a table-in-a-box for 6mm demos, so I think this could be an awesome side project. Is the terrain scratchbuilt?
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Oct 22, 2014 05:06
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I can't seem to find any links to the 1/72 High Seas stuff, could you let me know?
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Oct 22, 2014 08:31
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Southern Heel posted:I can't seem to find any links to the 1/72 High Seas stuff, could you let me know? http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Periods.aspx Should be your first stop for all 1/72 gaming. The high seas/pirates stuff is honestly not the greatest of sculpting quality but the pics they have there really don't do some of the figures justice since they are very large images of very tiny mans. Also remember that "Pirates" is a pretty wide section of history so you can also use military figures from the correct time periods.
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Oct 22, 2014 09:53
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Bear in mind that you're just looking at plastic stuff from large manufacturers there really. If you want to do small skirmish games then there are loads of metal manufacturers out there that cost way more but have far more variety too. For example, if you want to do modern Afghanistan British you can get multiple sets from multiple manufacturers covering pretty much every kit variation from 2001 until the present day for something in the region of a euro a figure.
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Oct 22, 2014 16:20
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I think that pre-gunpowder may be a better sweet spot for me at the moment, and short of experience my plan as it stands is thus: I'll get three armies suitable for DBA. Then, I can expand into DBM/BBDBA/FoG/Impetvs if neccesary. Saga does seem like a really interesting game too, but I'm just shy of those battle-boards. I was thinking Viking, Welsh and Anglo Saxon would be a great trio to pick up since they seem to play radically differently. The one criteria (having spoken to buddy) is that he wants to play barbarians/vikings - are there other suitably diverse but appropriately opposed trios that include a savage faction?
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Oct 22, 2014 18:01
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I'll just cut in with some pics of our first game of Black Powder from today. We were really keen to try it out after about 2 months of painting, even though we only got a brigade each completed. It was totally awesome to get some soldiers on the table, even if the battles themselves quickly devolved into tug-of-war matches, with the one getting the better rolls winning. It'll get better and more fun when we got a little bit more battalions painted and we can get some cannon and cavalry on the table too. We also had to test out the ranges for our scale, since we play with 18mm models on a 6' x 4' table and the rulebook recommends 28mm and 12' x 6' tables. We tried 66% on all ranges but eventually decided on 50% to allow for more maneuvering before getting stuck in. The brigades before the battle. Note that we divided my 5th battalion out to reinforce the two other smaller battalions, to get similar sized battalions all around. Also, his Old Guard brigade was played as regular line.   Action shots.   First casualties     *fighting intensifies*   Overall, we had a pretty good time. Getting the house rules down really helped motivate to keep painting. It also showed us that we need to get some artillery done ASAP to introduce more variables into who wins. Also, more infantry. Always more infantry  We'll now return to the scheduled entrapment of Southern Heel. Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Oct 22, 2014 |
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Oct 22, 2014 20:25
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I apologise if it feels like I'm monopolising the thread but I can feel the neckbeard sprouting as we discuss. I'm playing a demo of DBA with myself and I'm having a little trouble wrapping my head around the rules for multiple combats/flank charges, etc. - If a North Greek 3Cv charges the flank of 2x4Sp in column formation, do both elements turn to face? Since they were otherwise unengaged I assumed yes. If no, would I roll two combats (one for each of the Spears? Or if not would I only roll a dice for the 3Cv?) - If that 3Cv wins and causes the 4Sp to recoil it will push back the other 4Sp behind it. That rear Spear unit is in a bad place though and I ruled it as destroyed, since it will: -- a) graze the front of another Greek unit -- b) bump into the flank of another friendly Spear unit that it can't push back or pass through (since THAT unit has a different facing) - General Flank Questions: -- Can I use my 'half a width shift' on a flank charge to make sure my front corners are hitting the enemy front corner for that sweet flank penalty? -- Does a unit that flank charges an already engaged enemy get to do anything, or does it just contribute to the front-engagement via above penalty and instakill if the enemy loses? Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Oct 22, 2014 |
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Oct 22, 2014 23:16
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Southern Heel posted:I think that pre-gunpowder may be a better sweet spot for me at the moment, and short of experience my plan as it stands is thus: I'll get three armies suitable for DBA. Then, I can expand into DBM/BBDBA/FoG/Impetvs if neccesary. Saga does seem like a really interesting game too, but I'm just shy of those battle-boards.
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Oct 22, 2014 23:40
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Southern Heel posted:I apologise if it feels like I'm monopolising the thread but I can feel the neckbeard sprouting as we discuss. I hope you don't take my comments as me being annoyed. I was actually sorry to interrupt the Also, this thread moves pretty slow for the most part, so I'm sure a new
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Oct 23, 2014 00:08
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Southern Heel posted:are there other suitably diverse but appropriately opposed trios that include a savage faction?
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Oct 23, 2014 00:21
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Siivola posted:Germans, Gauls and Romans. Goths, Huns and Romans. Mongols, Chinese dynasty of choice, and, uh... Koreans? I dunno.
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Oct 23, 2014 00:29
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With Fall-In coming up soon, and images of new, terrible, impulse buys at the flea market and dealers' hall, I need to get rid of some stuff. I can make an SA Mart thread, but I figure 18mm Napoleonics and 20mm WWII US and Germans would probably fit better in here. These are all failed projects that I just couldn't get people in the Baltimore area in, so most of it's straight metal or plastic. Before I list specifics, is anyone interested in French and Austrians for 1809? Mostly AB miniatures with some Warmodelling thrown in. Same thing for WWII, a mix of SHQ, Warmodelling, and some PSC guys. I also have lots of rules!
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Oct 23, 2014 04:57
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Southern Heel posted:I apologise if it feels like I'm monopolising the thread but I can feel the neckbeard sprouting as we discuss. I'm playing a demo of DBA with myself and I'm having a little trouble wrapping my head around the rules for multiple combats/flank charges, etc. * I would say just the contacted unit turns to face. Just roll against contacted units. * Recoiling should mean dead in this case. * That's what the shift is for, seize that bonus. * The bonus to the other engagement and the instal-kill is what it's doing. If you flank somebody that badly you've basically won. DBA is not a ruleset that will try and drag that out. As a bonus, you now probably have time for a rematch. I used DBA as my in-store demo a couple of decades ago, it drummed up a lot of interest in historicals. It has a lot going for it as an introductory or quick-play wargame. * At 15mm or smaller it needs little terrain or space to play. I had two games going at once on a 5'x2'6" table. * 15mm or smaller armies are cheap, easy to paint, and a great gateway drug to the hobby. * It plays really fast, 45 minutes was common for 100YW armies with lots of knights, an hour and a half is the longest game I've ever regularly seen with DBA. e: For my demos I set up the terrain, and my philosophy is that the more the merrier. I once gave a two camel-archer armies a hilly map with a lot of river ( main stream and a tributary in a Y formation) and just enough open plain to make it plausible those armies would actually engage. Those poor bastards spent a little over two hours maneuvering, trying to line up attacks where a recoil would turn into a kill. We had to stay almost an hour past closing time to finish, and the managers were watching the game after counting out the registers. It was glorious. mllaneza fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 07:30
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Thank you very much - just in regard to that first point, I've just attached a quick pick of the situation, to confirm you say the middle step is true? What if the unmarked grey units were part of a larger group? I can see that LH, CA and PS all confirm to a targetted element in a group, but it doesn't say what happens with other units (which I guess is even more curious, since you mentioned that flanking doesn't provide combat, only bonuses to existing combat) - The whole group turns (unlikely) - The flanking unit must pick an element to attack, and only that unit turns - The flanking unit must pick an element to attack, and that unit + supporters turns - The flanking unit must pick an element to attack, and any unit in contact with the flanker turns
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Oct 23, 2014 09:08
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Southern Heel posted:Thank you very much - just in regard to that first point, I've just attached a quick pick of the situation, to confirm you say the middle step is true? What if the unmarked grey units were part of a larger group? I can see that LH, CA and PS all confirm to a targetted element in a group, but it doesn't say what happens with other units (which I guess is even more curious, since you mentioned that flanking doesn't provide combat, only bonuses to existing combat) From the pictures I'd say you've got it almost right. The third picture should have a single unmarked brown cardboard unit facing to the left in the pictures, not down (towards the 3 CV). All that unit should be doing on the owning player's next turn is pivoting to face your cavalry, and that's what the rules allow.
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Oct 23, 2014 09:21
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OK, so can I just play this back to make sure I understand? When flanking multiple elements, the charger has to pick a single target. That target rotates and the charger can shuffle up to half a base-length. Any other elements remain in place. Combat occurs between the two facing units. Recoil occurs as normal. In my example: the 4Sp would have been pushed back, but since the whole column didn't rotate, it wouldn't have been destroyed due to the push-back constriction. Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 11:01
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I was originally set on 6mm figs on 15-mm scaled bases; but I feel like I'm drinking crazy juice! DBA armies are calling for one or two units of 3Bw, and yet I buy them from Baccus in packs of 48?! Even if I use double the amount of 6mm figures on the bases I'm going to have FORTY archers left over! https://www.baccus6mm.com/includes/products/earlymed/viking_range.php Doubling the count of models on a base feels like it's going to add more confusion but I will bow to the knowledge of those who have already learnt the game: is it a better way forward for massed-battles? I looked at Pendraken incase of 15mm figures instead (http://www.pendraken.co.uk/Dark-Ages-c10/NORSE-sc35/) and they seem to be more appropriate in volume - one pack of Hird/Bondi/Archer/Berzerker each should pretty much do it and the figure-count might be more appropriate for the dark ages.
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Oct 23, 2014 13:33
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Southern Heel posted:I was originally set on 6mm figs on 15-mm scaled bases; but I feel like I'm drinking crazy juice! DBA armies are calling for one or two units of 3Bw, and yet I buy them from Baccus in packs of 48?! Even if I use double the amount of 6mm figures on the bases I'm going to have FORTY archers left over! https://www.baccus6mm.com/includes/products/earlymed/viking_range.php Doubling the count of models on a base feels like it's going to add more confusion but I will bow to the knowledge of those who have already learnt the game: is it a better way forward for massed-battles? Skirmish troops from Baccus are stupidly good value - I'm currently painting up some Napoleonic French Lights in skirmish, and that £3/48 models is enough for 12 bases! - This is using the 40mmx20mm for 15mm scale. Just base up the extras, if you move onto another system then you'll be all set. Now, if only I could find an army of skirmishers.....
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Oct 23, 2014 13:43
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Southern Heel posted:I was originally set on 6mm figs on 15-mm scaled bases; but I feel like I'm drinking crazy juice! DBA armies are calling for one or two units of 3Bw, and yet I buy them from Baccus in packs of 48?! Even if I use double the amount of 6mm figures on the bases I'm going to have FORTY archers left over! https://www.baccus6mm.com/includes/products/earlymed/viking_range.php Doubling the count of models on a base feels like it's going to add more confusion but I will bow to the knowledge of those who have already learnt the game: is it a better way forward for massed-battles? For DBA sized bases in 6mm I have roughly 12-16 minis/base for ranked infantry, 6-8 for skirmish formation infantry, and 5-6 cavalry depending on type. It doesn't matter that much how many minis are on each base, really.
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Oct 23, 2014 14:03
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Great! How do you keep your 3Bd separate from your 4Bd? Or is it all contextual (fewer guys, different hats, etc.) ?
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Oct 23, 2014 14:32
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Southern Heel posted:Great! How do you keep your 3Bd separate from your 4Bd? Or is it all contextual (fewer guys, different hats, etc.) ? It doesn't really matter in DBA, so I don't care. I think it matters in DBM, which I haven't played, but in that case I'm pretty sure that I would be able to remember what type of Bd elements my list has, I don't think that there are many lists that have both 3Bd and 4Bd, but again, I don't play DBM. When I was playing ancients and medieval games more actively I played DBA for small games and Fields of Glory for large games, and FoG doesn't differentiate units based on number of troops on the base. I'm generally pretty laid back with these things, it's just like I wouldn't go berzerk if someone wanted to field a Sherman M4A1 as a M4A3. E: Basing examples from my Post-Mongol Samurai army in 6mm  Left to right: 4Bd, 4Sp, 3Bw  3Cv (Samurai fought in mixed formation with their cav)  3Cv (general) Example of "pure" cav, from my Napoleonics:  (not finished basing these) lilljonas fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 14:52
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Thanks, I wasn't thinking in terms of accuracy, rather book-keeping in the heat of the battle - I guess contextual is the answer there, and those units look fantastic. I think I'd like a little space on my bases so I'm going to triple rather than quadruple the figure count, giving me this: Viking - 12 Warband (Berzerkers), 120 Blades (Axemen?), 12 Bows Anglo Saxon - 36 Warband (Huscarls), 96 Spearmen (Fyrd), 6 Psiloi (scouts) Welsh - 72 Auxiliary, 18 Psiloi (scouts) 6 Light Horse (Teulu), 9 Longbow I reckon I can get a single lot of bows to perform double-duty, and represent the Psiloi with more sparsely distributed Ax/Wb models. 33gbp for the whole lot seems very reasonable. What's the go-to source for magnetic bases?
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Oct 23, 2014 17:59
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Southern Heel posted:Thanks, I wasn't thinking in terms of accuracy, rather book-keeping in the heat of the battle - I guess contextual is the answer there, and those units look fantastic. I think I'd like a little space on my bases so I'm going to triple rather than quadruple the figure count, giving me this: I'm very satisfied with buying my bases from Litko. You can either get metal bases or plywood bases with magnetic rubber that you simply put on like a sticker. You can see the rubber thingy at the bottom of the bases in my pictures. 0.8mm or 1.5mm is enough if you are doing 6mm. As for viking Bd I think it representa the typical shield wall. Vikings in a shield wall would carry a shield (duh) and usually either an ax, spear, or sword. If you want to go supergroggy accurate you could use vikings with shields in the first rank and two-handed axes or spears in second rank. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 18:15
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600ish point is pretty common for low level flames if war games, is it not? Also, are the PIAT battery universal carriers worth the points, or no?
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Oct 23, 2014 18:49
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Oh god I just can't stop myself: Marian Romans vs Germans, Vikings vs Angles, Mongols vs Sung Chinese - PLEASE SOMEONE JUST TELL ME WHICH TO GET.
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Oct 24, 2014 00:18
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Hedningen posted:This seems amazing. What are you using for basing and measurement scales? Basing is accomplished using washers with an 3/8" od for infantry, and 5/8" od for cavalry. The range ruler was made using a laser cutter.  Very short=2cm Short=4cm Medium=6cm Long=12cm Foot troops move medium  So they can't reach these mounted troops Cavalry move Long  So they can easily reach the spearmen. The terrain is scratch built using pink foam that I cut with hot wire and then applied the "timbers" using toothpicks I split in half. I then made molds and cast them out of resin, which is what you see in the pictures. The original foam did not survive being taken out of the molds. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Oct 24, 2014 |
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Oct 24, 2014 00:35
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Gosh, that is so cool! I hope that I'll have enough left over from my Baccus order to get in on that too. I decided to err for a more cinematic pairing of Marian Romans and Suebi (for the Barbarian aspect), so now all I need to do is make sure I'm clear on the rules and get painting. I'm getting my army lists from DBAOL (http://www.dbaol.com/armies/army_59_figure_1.htm and http://www.dbaol.com/armies/army_57_figure_1.htm) so if there is something hugely wrong please let me know. I am going through DBA2.2+ from WADBAG for the rules (http://www.wadbag.com/DBAGuidePlus/v2.2PlusUnofficialGuide_double.pdf and http://www.wadbag.com/V2.2+/V2.2PlusPlaysheet.pdf) and they seem pretty reasonable, but I hear DBA 3.0 is now out too. Is that worth considering?
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Oct 24, 2014 13:19
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Southern Heel posted:Oh god I just can't stop myself: Marian Romans vs Germans, Vikings vs Angles, Mongols vs Sung Chinese - PLEASE SOMEONE JUST TELL ME WHICH TO GET. All of them
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Oct 24, 2014 13:22
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How does Wargames Factory 15mm stuff compare to Battlefront? My FLGS has a US rifle company box for 22 bucks, which I figure will at least get me started.
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Oct 25, 2014 04:34
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Beardless posted:How does Wargames Factory 15mm stuff compare to Battlefront? My FLGS has a US rifle company box for 22 bucks, which I figure will at least get me started. Here's a comparison shot. L-R: Wargames Factory, BF, Command Decision. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBJfkVvC9kY/T3O73b-3TlI/AAAAAAAAACs/2PyWwbdrZNU/s1600/DSCN2166.JPG
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Oct 25, 2014 10:46
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So they're on the smaller side of 15mm. Or BF and CD are on the larger side. Well, I may pick up a WGF American infantry box just to have a basic army to get me started. As long as the army is all one type of miniature it wouldn't look off, right?
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Oct 25, 2014 17:05
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They should look good alongside Plastic Soldier Company's 15mm figures, actually.
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Oct 25, 2014 18:00
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moths posted:They should look good alongside Plastic Soldier Company's 15mm figures, actually. Good to know. I think my next purchase will be a Heavy weapons box, then I'll have a Rifle company with 2 Rifle platoons, a weapons platoon, an MG platoon, and a mortar platoon. Or would that be too heavy on support compared to actual combat platoons? Also, is there a reccomended painting guide for a total newbie?
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Oct 25, 2014 23:03
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Beardless posted:Good to know. I think my next purchase will be a Heavy weapons box, then I'll have a Rifle company with 2 Rifle platoons, a weapons platoon, an MG platoon, and a mortar platoon. Or would that be too heavy on support compared to actual combat platoons? Also, is there a reccomended painting guide for a total newbie? http://www.bardsabode.com/hobby/paintguides.html http://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=110&art_id=228&kb_cat_id=27 http://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=110&art_id=3128&kb_cat_id=27 Are all good places to start. Vallejo makes good paint sets in the correct colors as do their imprint company Panzer Aces. You can get washes from Game s-Workshop or Secret Weapon Miniatures which will make shading a lot easier especially on tanks. http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/7350-secret-weapon-washes-in-depth-review-tutorial
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Oct 26, 2014 00:12
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So I just found out that the Flames of war rulebook that I paid full price for last week is second edition.  How different are the basic rules from second to Third edition? I haven't played a game yet, I just started reading it over today. Will I have to forget everythign I learned, or is it similar enough to not matter?
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Oct 26, 2014 05:50
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Beardless posted:So I just found out that the Flames of war rulebook that I paid full price for last week is second edition. The fundamentals are the same but a lot of things are quite different, especially assaults. Can you get your money back? That's honestly baffling that you could even find a 2nd edition rulebook today. It must be 4-5 years old now. At the very least you should be able to get one of the free mini rulebooks for 3rd edition that were given out to anyone owning the 2nd edition.
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Oct 26, 2014 07:39
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Beardless posted:So I just found out that the Flames of war rulebook that I paid full price for last week is second edition. Don't use the second book. I learned to play FoW with second edition and there is still stuff I get wrong in third. Return it.
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Oct 26, 2014 10:27
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Conan the Librarian posted:The fundamentals are the same but a lot of things are quite different, especially assaults. Can you get your money back? That's honestly baffling that you could even find a 2nd edition rulebook today. It must be 4-5 years old now. At the very least you should be able to get one of the free mini rulebooks for 3rd edition that were given out to anyone owning the 2nd edition. TheBlobThing posted:Don't use the second book. I learned to play FoW with second edition and there is still stuff I get wrong in third. Return it. Luckily, I hadn't even gotten to the section on assaults yet, I had read through movement and most of shooting before realizing that I had an older book. I don't know when my copy was printed, but 2nd edition came out in 2006. And the gaming store has at least one other copy on the shelf. It's in new condition, they probably just sat on the shelf for a while or something. I'm willing to bet that the store I bought it from doesn't realize their mistake, but yeah I'm definitely going to try and return it. I actually paid more for it than what Battlefront wants for the full 3rd edition set with the forces and hobby books, so hopefully I'll be able to have them order one of those.
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Oct 26, 2014 16:59
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 I don't want to spam up two threads, but I finished up a bunch of Free French for this month's oath thread and figured if anyone would appreciate them, they're ITT. Turns out all you need is the old Battlefront tank sprue and a sharp knife to convert the Open Fire! Firefly tanks into 75mm turrets. They won't have hull MGs, but at 15mm (and a FoW table...) nobody's likely to notice.
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Oct 27, 2014 01:40
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