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Funzo posted:That was pretty much what I figured it was going to be. Any chance I'm going to be able to get the window back up and leave it that way until I can get a new regulator? If you get someone to push the up button while you assist it by hand it should go. Be careful though, the Window is held by 2 clamps at the bottom and if you pull it out of the clamps before you pull the door card off you'll hate life.
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Oct 26, 2014 04:12
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Funzo posted:That was pretty much what I figured it was going to be. Any chance I'm going to be able to get the window back up and leave it that way until I can get a new regulator? I highly recommend you take the door cards off before you even place the order for the window regulators. Not only will you inevitably break some of the little plastic doodads that hold the door card into the sheetmetal, but you may even be able to fix it (if you have an E46): http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1388-BMW-E46-window-regulator-zip-tie-fix
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Oct 26, 2014 06:01
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Took a pic of my buddy's M3 last night, it's going away for the winter pretty soon. Laguna Seca Blue is the best colour ever.
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Oct 26, 2014 14:03
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Ah, late fall. When every BMW owner wonders wtf on their car broke before realizing it's 37 degrees outside.
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Oct 26, 2014 16:36
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ColdPie posted:Ah, late fall. When every BMW owner wonders wtf on their car broke before realizing it's 37 degrees outside. Whereas those of us in the southwest wonder when we might get one day of rain and if our wiper blades are somewhat or completely useless from cracking in the sun all summer long. Wait we don't do that we just drive. We know better than to go outside in the rain.
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Oct 26, 2014 16:39
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I know when I need to get new wiper blades when there's a torrential downpour one random day and the wipers don't do anything.
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Oct 26, 2014 16:45
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neckbeard posted:Took a pic of my buddy's M3 last night, it's going away for the winter pretty soon. Laguna Seca Blue is the best colour ever. That doesn't look like LSB to me. Estoril?
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Oct 26, 2014 17:06
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Ultimate Mango posted:Whereas those of us in the southwest wonder when we might get one day of rain and if our wiper blades are somewhat or completely useless from cracking in the sun all summer long. I went to my local Sacramento area Home Depot yesterday and since it has finally gotten below 60 degrees for a few days after 6 months of 90+ loving degrees people were wearing parkas, knit hats and sweatshirts. wimps.
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Oct 26, 2014 17:11
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havelock posted:That doesn't look like LSB to me. Estoril? It's LSB, parkade lighting isn't the greatest, but it's nowhere close to estoril blue
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Oct 26, 2014 17:21
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Got the door apart, and yep the regulator is hosed. The wire cable got jammed in the spool, and the tension snapped off a piece of the part that actually holds the window. The window was stuck down because the spool couldn't turn anymore. At least the rear door regulators are cheap. On the plus side, I didn't break any of the door card fasteners taking everything apart. Right now I've got some foam jammed in the door cavity holding the window up and the panel half on.
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Oct 26, 2014 19:03
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In it's natural habitat  Funnily, as I am learning to drive it, the fuel meter has shown an increase from 16.1mpg to 17.4. We'll see what it levels out to, by that time I might be getting in to it a bit heavier though. 
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Oct 28, 2014 03:33
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That's gorgeous but the license plate holder just slapped on the hurts. On the upside I'm glad companies don't gently caress up the front end of cars for the few places in the world sane enough to only need 1 plate.
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Oct 28, 2014 03:47
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Powershift posted:That's gorgeous but the license plate holder just slapped on the hurts.
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Oct 28, 2014 03:53
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:It's painful, yeah. It's actually an aftermarket bracket that you put where the front tow-hook receiver is. I think once I get my plates, I'm going to get a different one that goes in the center, but has L-Shaped brackets that screw in on the underside of the lip under the kidneys. So the bumper won't have visible holes in the front surface, and the license plate will be in the middle but a bit lower than the stock BMW bracket, for a more normal look. Get one where the plate flips up and then always "forget" to flip it down
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Oct 28, 2014 03:54
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Yeah I'd either get a movable mount or just live with the tickets. Front plates are a crime against nature. Just look at what they did to the poor FD RX-7.
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Oct 28, 2014 11:10
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Anyone have any advise on what to look for in a 2010-2011 320ed (the less fun but nearly roadtax free 2 litre). I was born old, so like the idea of something that large getting supermini mpg; Am I sacrificing anything more than sex appeal?
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Oct 28, 2014 17:26
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I just installed the e60 shifter into my e39 M5. I think it's about an inch shorter. In case anyone was considering it, I highly recommend it. A+ upgrade. The shorter throw is much more like I'm accustomed to.
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Oct 29, 2014 00:36
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Lord Zuthulu posted:I just installed the e60 shifter into my e39 M5. I think it's about an inch shorter. In case anyone was considering it, I highly recommend it. A+ upgrade. The shorter throw is much more like I'm accustomed to. How does it compare to the euro e36(?) M3 one? One of the things I hate about my 540i is all the even gears feel way too far back.
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Oct 29, 2014 05:03
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mafoose posted:How does it compare to the euro e36(?) M3 one? I can really only compare it to the zhp I was driving previously, which its previous owner had installed the BMW performance ssk. That felt the best to me and I didn't like the feel of the shifting in the e39. Now it feels great but I still want to try it with the zhp knob. If you can swing the 70 bux I think you'd like it in your 540i.
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Oct 29, 2014 06:08
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Where did you get it for $70? Do you have a part number for it?
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Oct 29, 2014 06:21
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So I bought a BMW! Picked up a 2008 335i - Sport package, Steptronic (due to some issues I need an automatic and the 335i automatic seemed to get glowing reviews). Guy bought in Jan 2010 as a CPO, had service paperwork, etc. 80,000mi. Ive driven it 20mi and it is off to BMW - If I give it some throttle and it gets to 3500ish rpms the half filled CEL comes on and the car dings at me. Noticed the idle seemed rough. After research I guess it is the HPFP and hopefully BMW agrees. Definitely did not do this on the test drive but I never floored it. PO says "Everything was fine man!". I am so screwed. But I have not felt boost yet so I have something to look forward to! It is pretty though... 
Jewish Corn Rows fucked around with this message at 11:48 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 29, 2014 11:29
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Jewish Corn Rows posted:So I bought a BMW! At 80k that car will likely also need walnut blasted, if it hasn't been done yet.
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Oct 29, 2014 11:41
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TacoHavoc posted:At 80k that car will likely also need walnut blasted, if it hasn't been done yet. Yep! Planning that in a month or so once I get some local reviews on BMW shops.
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Oct 29, 2014 11:49
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mafoose posted:Where did you get it for $70? Do you have a part number for it? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-M5-S62_5.0L/Drivetrain/Shifter/ES47333/ They have the part number listed there too. I also bought a new shifter bushing and circlip but I don't have the part numbers right now as I'm posting from my phone.
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Oct 29, 2014 13:45
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wolrah posted:That's the window regulator failing. It's around a $75 part and if you can work a screwdriver without stabbing yourself it's about an hour worth of work to replace. Take the door panel off, carefully remove the foam barrier, a few bolts holding the regulator in place, swap the motor over to the new one, reinstall, adhesive the foam back in, reinstall door panel. Speaking of window regulators, I need to do the one on the driver door on the the E39. Do I have to do any really hinky bullshit to deal with the side airbag? I have a horrible phobia of setting one off in my face. Battery disconnected for a while = safe?
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Oct 29, 2014 17:37
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Jonny 290 posted:Speaking of window regulators, I need to do the one on the driver door on the the E39. Do I have to do any really hinky bullshit to deal with the side airbag? I have a horrible phobia of setting one off in my face. I'm not sure about the E39 but if you can leave the airbag module plugged in and just cable tie it out of the way that's preferable to unplugging it. You'd have to try really hard to get it to go off anyway, but there's less chance of a static discharge setting it off if its still plugged in.
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Oct 29, 2014 18:10
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Jonny 290 posted:Speaking of window regulators, I need to do the one on the driver door on the the E39. Do I have to do any really hinky bullshit to deal with the side airbag? I have a horrible phobia of setting one off in my face. Don't know the E39 either, but on the E46 I never touched the airbag parts. Conveniently mine's apart right now because I'm lazy so here's what I'm used to dealing with for regulator replacement:  Peel the foam back to get at the bolts, then the big open area at the bottom is where you pass the parts in and out of the door. Airbag is obviously the box on the outside of the foam. I have to assume the E39 is similar given how much else between the two is "same basic part, slightly different shape".
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Oct 29, 2014 18:25
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Lord Zuthulu posted:I just installed the e60 shifter into my e39 M5. I think it's about an inch shorter. In case anyone was considering it, I highly recommend it. A+ upgrade. The shorter throw is much more like I'm accustomed to. Great, this is next on my list of things to do.
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Oct 29, 2014 21:53
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This is a bit of a cross post from the track day thread. I had my 95 M3 out at the track for the first time this weekend. It was awesome for about an hour, then something in the motor died. I'm thinking head gasket right now, but I haven't done too much diagnosing yet. There is <20 psi on cyl 1 and 2. Some guys at the track dropped a bore scope in and said the pistons don't look banged up, so hopefully no dropped valves. It was running a bit warm, according to the stock temp gauge so I backed out of the throttle any time the needle started to climb. I may end up doing a complete GDCS over Anyway, I'm curious what kind of stuff I should be looking at replacing when the head comes off. Assuming it's just the HG, what kind of "good to do while I'm there" stuff should I consider? The motor is an S52, supposedly about 95k miles on it. I've never had to do this before, and since I don't have a good place to do this kind of work I'll probably end up paying someone to do it anyway. Any advice would be appreciated though.
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Oct 29, 2014 22:43
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TacoHavoc posted:At 80k that car will likely also need walnut blasted, if it hasn't been done yet. When you say walnut blasting I assume you're talking about drywashing the turbo? I had no idea this was a thing on cars, I do it nightly on marine turbos but the fuel we burn is much dirtier...
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Oct 29, 2014 23:09
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Two Finger posted:When you say walnut blasting I assume you're talking about drywashing the turbo? I had no idea this was a thing on cars, I do it nightly on marine turbos but the fuel we burn is much dirtier... No. Because it's a direct injected engine, fuel doesn't pass over the intake valve and it builds up carbon. You blast it with walnuts to clean it.
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Oct 29, 2014 23:21
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Two Finger posted:When you say walnut blasting I assume you're talking about drywashing the turbo? I had no idea this was a thing on cars, I do it nightly on marine turbos but the fuel we burn is much dirtier... It's the intake manifold. German manufacturers were quick to jump on the direct injection hype train. Direct Injection is where there is a fuel injector in the cylinder that sprays directly into the combustion chamber instead of behind the valves which is what used to happen. Hence the name. The problem with this is fuels these days have detergent in them. In older style fuel injection, the fuel gets sprayed all over the valves the the detergents break up all the carbon build up and this keeps your engine clean. With DI, no fuel sprays over the valves. The back of the valves and the rest of the intake manifold build up with carbon and get dirty. Enough of this build up robs you of power. So european cars from before they put another injector behind the valves have to be walnut blasted every 50K miles or so.
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Oct 29, 2014 23:24
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Cojawfee posted:It's the intake manifold. German manufacturers were quick to jump on the direct injection hype train. Direct Injection is where there is a fuel injector in the cylinder that sprays directly into the combustion chamber instead of behind the valves which is what used to happen. Hence the name. The problem with this is fuels these days have detergent in them. In older style fuel injection, the fuel gets sprayed all over the valves the the detergents break up all the carbon build up and this keeps your engine clean. With DI, no fuel sprays over the valves. The back of the valves and the rest of the intake manifold build up with carbon and get dirty. Enough of this build up robs you of power. So european cars from before they put another injector behind the valves have to be walnut blasted every 50K miles or so. This is a much better explanation listen to him.
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Oct 29, 2014 23:27
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You know there is a way to prevent carbon buildup in the intake in a DI engine; drive the piss out of it. 
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Oct 30, 2014 00:18
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSuGdjyRKeU I can't figure out what the gently caress the whining noise is. I've replaced all of the belts, the ac idler pulley, all of the vacuum lines, pulled the ac clutch fan, replaced the water pump and thermostat, etc. I figured it was probably a bad bearing in the waterpump and it would go away but apparently not.
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Oct 30, 2014 00:56
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Does it do it if you remove the accessory belts? If yes, look at timing guides/tensioners. If no, have you checked the alternator bearing?
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Oct 30, 2014 01:07
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It goes away if I give the car throttle but it's not the AC. Guess it would be the alternator bearing - I need a new adjuster bar and toothed nut for that anyway. edit: Haha, I just figured out this thing has some kind of newer alternator and not the one that goes on the E30 or E36 with an M4x motor. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Oct 30, 2014 |
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Oct 30, 2014 01:12
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Bah, went to replace my burned out HID bulb this evening, and discovered it wasn't a burned out bulb. Well, it was that, too, in a certain sense:  Turns out the igniter blew, and appears to have taken the old bulb with it. There's some tiny rattle inside the bad igniter that doesn't exist in the other working one. I checked all the possibly-relevant fuses and swapped igniters to troubleshoot, and the unlit bulb followed the bad igniter. Welp, another $100 or so for a new igniter. Plus pulling the housing to get the broken glass out of the reflector bowl. Hurray. At least even with 2 new OEM-spec Philips bulbs and a new igniter I'm coming out at about the same cost of just a pair of bulbs from BMW/Pelican/Bavauto. Edit: Hmm maybe I'll try getting one of those micro-vacuum attachments for like  instead of pulling the housing...
Guinness fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Oct 30, 2014 |
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Oct 30, 2014 03:55
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Guinness posted:Edit: Hmm maybe I'll try getting one of those micro-vacuum attachments for like Or go even more shadetree and use some tape on the end of a straightened coat hanger.
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Oct 30, 2014 14:17
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EVERYWHERE 
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Currently have my window being held up with some foam insulation until I can put the new regulator in tonight. For a different question, I've been having some stumbling at idle when I first start the car. Everything will be fine on start, no hesitation or anything, but if I let it sit for a minute, revs will dip way down and the car sounds like it's about to stall for a second, then jumps back p to normal and everything is fine. Coming to a stop after driving will also see RPM drop a little, but not as severely. E90 with the N52 engine. from looking at various forms, it looks like the VANOS solenoid may need cleaning. Doesn't look all that hard, so Imay give that a go. Anyone have other ideas? It never throws a code or anything, and actually driving doesn't produce any problems.
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Oct 30, 2014 17:02
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