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Find a code reader(vatozone, dealer, friend), pull the CEL code, go from there.
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Oct 22, 2014 06:55
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Huge_Midget posted:Got a question for the thread regarding my wife's 2011 Outback 3.6R Limited. We were driving along tonight when all of a sudden the check engine light came on, the vehicle stability light turned on, the cruise indicator started blinking, and the parking brake light started flashing. Needless to say I freaked the gently caress out and pulled over to try to figure out what was happening. After some quick roadside Googling I thought it might be an evap code from my wife not getting the gas cap back on tight enough. I reseated the cap and restarted it a few times to clear the code and it seemingly worked. After dinner we were driving home and it did the same thing again. After some more googling I'm thinking it might be battery related? It still has the factory battery from 2010 when we bought the car and the dealership mentioned that the battery was going to need replacing soon. I looked at it and it is getting corroded pretty badly. Would a battery be a likely culprit in this situation? Also, battery recommendations? Was looking at an Optoma red top since we live in the frozen hell of northern Indiana. I had similar issues on my WRX and it turned out to be the brake light switch. It was relatively inexpensive and an easy replacement; it's under the dash on the brake pedal assembly. If you replace it, make sure you adjust it correctly.
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Oct 22, 2014 13:38
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I've been reading the Outback forums and found this:quote:A TSB is now out: Anyone with knowledge of the 3.6 liter / access to Subaru's TSB system know how common / if this might be the cause? I know we have one of the very first 2011's that rolled off the line.
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Oct 22, 2014 14:11
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The Takata airbag recall was expanded to the 2005 9-2x. I'm really nervous about my 2006, I would be very surprised if they didn't use the same bag and aren't ignoring the 06 because it was produced in much lower numbers. So far they're trying to limit their liability as much as they can, such as recalling in Gulf Coast states where there's "high humidity." Hello, I live in the PacNW - it is raining over an inch today as I type this.
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Oct 22, 2014 18:57
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Someone posted the link to the affected cars list in the BMW thread. GM is the only company that didn't produce an estimated number of affected vehicles. They may not even know they made your car to begin with.
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Oct 22, 2014 19:07
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I'm looking to get a new driver's floor mat, as I've worn 2 holes in mine from my heels. I'd like to get something to fit like the original. Anyone have any recommendations as to where to go? Are Weathertech's worth it (I'm leaning towards no, those things aren't cheap.)
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Oct 24, 2014 20:11
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm looking to get a new driver's floor mat, as I've worn 2 holes in mine from my heels. Fitted rubber mats with a lip to keep water and dirt contained are worth it. Sometimes you can find an eBay deal on weather techs or OEM mats.
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Oct 24, 2014 20:18
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Do those all weather mats require the anchor that the stock fabric ones do? my anchor has ripped out and now my mat slides everywhere
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Oct 24, 2014 20:20
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I believe the Subaru all weather mats do use the mat anchors. At least the drivers side does on my Outback. The aftermarket ones like what I have in my truck don't, but they have a pretty good weight to them and they don't move at all really. The rubber does not slide on the carpet nearly as easily as the foam/fabric backing on the stock floor mats. Those anchors though are easy to replace, at most you might have to undo the front seat rail bolts and loosen the rears so you can prop it up. I am willing to bet you could swap it out with the seat pushed all the way back though.
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Oct 24, 2014 20:33
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I'm a weathertech dealer. The floor liners are pretty sweet and come with new tabs that screw into the carpet. They don't work super great but are better than nothing. I'm using an extra to hold my stock mats into place better, and once I wrapped a zip tie around the post it stopped coming off.
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Oct 24, 2014 21:14
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Aflicted posted:I believe the Subaru all weather mats do use the mat anchors. Just about all the Subaru OEM mats anchor the driver only since that's the one where having the mat slide around can get you killed. Front passenger usually holds place decently since that footwell has shape to it. Backseat pretty much just sits there and consequently end up under the front seats all the time.
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Oct 24, 2014 21:46
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What's a good price on the weathertech set? I know I'd like to get some what with the using my car mostly for snowboarding season, just gotta plan out the expense. $170's about the best I've seen around just casually browsing today.
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Oct 25, 2014 00:05
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Generally they're all going to be around that, I can't do a whole lot better than whatever is advertised online. Usually a few bucks less with shipping included though. With a zip code, the year/model/body style, and a color I can check stock and come up with an actual price.
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Oct 25, 2014 00:17
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So I have a Legacy with EJ 2.2s with the hydraulic lifters in it, and one (or more) is definitely hosed. It started where it as an occasional loud clicking that would go away after an hour or two, could start up cold, start up after driving for awhile, or really anytime in between with no rhyme nor reason. It kicked up again about three days ago, and has yet to subside Oil is fine, nothing's leaking, I don't have any negative symptoms except this ridiculously annoying sound. The mechanic I brought it to said it's definitely a lifter and that it's not going to do any damage except to my sanity. I have an appointment to get it fixed a week from today, and just wanted to know am indeed safe to drive in the interim (maybe 70-80 miles a day, usually able to keep it under 3k rpm)?
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Oct 25, 2014 01:57
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I have the Husky Liners. I don't know how they compare to Weathertech, other than being cheaper. Its more plastic and less flexible than I expected. You can put your regular floor mats on top of them if you want.
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Oct 25, 2014 13:11
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What's the goto aggressive track pad for our weight/setup these days? I'm going to need to replace my dtc 70's up front, and need them to last through the last four events this year. I love their aggressive bite and minimal fade, and generally have no real complaints, but if there's something better out there in that price range, I'm all ears.
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Oct 26, 2014 06:52
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Those or CL RC6 are what I always recommend.
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Oct 26, 2014 06:53
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jamal posted:Generally they're all going to be around that, I can't do a whole lot better than whatever is advertised online. Usually a few bucks less with shipping included though. With a zip code, the year/model/body style, and a color I can check stock and come up with an actual price. Do you know if they ever revised the 4th gen Legacy mats? I had wanted to get a set for quite a while, but the fitment reviews were pretty poor on LegacyGT.com. Seems that they were never molded quite right and the sides along the door would never stay put.
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Oct 26, 2014 15:23
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No idea. The one set I've seen in person didn't follow the floor perfectly at first probably from being folded up in the box. After a few weeks they are better.
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Oct 26, 2014 21:11
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Yeah, my latest set got mooshed near the firewall area, which interfered with the pedal motion. After a few weeks it was better, and then I left it out in the sun on the deck and that seems to have fixed it.
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Oct 26, 2014 21:25
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So I finally had a chance to take a good look at the noise coming from the AC compressor area, and wound up just cutting the belt off. The idler pulley is fine, the pulley on the compressor has about 1/4" of play and was wearing away the sides of the belt. Also, it looks like two bushings are gone from the plate on the front of the pulley, it moves around with my hand. See - Can I fix this? Up until I cut the belt off the AC still blew cold air, so I'd really just like to replace the front bits on the compressor if possible. It's an '02 impreza.
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Oct 26, 2014 22:54
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jamal posted:Those or CL RC6 are what I always recommend. Those CL RC6 have some pretty impressive data points. Do you carry them?
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Oct 27, 2014 00:27
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Unfortunately no. You'd probably be best going through essex parts.
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Oct 27, 2014 00:28
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TrueChaos posted:So I finally had a chance to take a good look at the noise coming from the AC compressor area, and wound up just cutting the belt off. The idler pulley is fine, the pulley on the compressor has about 1/4" of play and was wearing away the sides of the belt. Also, it looks like two bushings are gone from the plate on the front of the pulley, it moves around with my hand. See - Your best bet is probably a new compressor from rockauto or similar.
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Oct 27, 2014 00:29
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VelociBacon posted:Your best bet is probably a new compressor from rockauto or similar. drat, that isn't going to be cheap. Also, would cutting the AC belt off in any way affect the blower motor? It's never worked on settings one and two since I've had the car, but I came out this morning to no 3 & 4 as well, which is going to be quite an issue. Where do I start with diagnosing this?
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Oct 27, 2014 13:06
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TrueChaos posted:Also, would cutting the AC belt off in any way affect the blower motor? It's never worked on settings one and two since I've had the car, but I came out this morning to no 3 & 4 as well, which is going to be quite an issue. Where do I start with diagnosing this? Sounds like a blower resistor to me, it sits on the blower assembly itself. Not too difficult to get to, might be even able to swap it without removing everything. You can swap one from a junkyard, or I think you might be able to buy the resistor separately, should be cheap either way. E: although 4 should work anyway since it essentially bypasses the resistor, maybe the plug is corroded?
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Oct 27, 2014 14:41
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Yeah my immediate thought was resistor, but 4 should work. I realize I haven't checked the fuses ( ), so I'm going to do that at lunch, and then use a multimeter to see if the blower motor is getting any power.E: Son of a bitch, the fuses are fine and I'm not seeing 12V at the blower motor plug. Thoughts? I'm going to have to pull the dash apart aren't I. E2: If the AC fuse is blown the blower motor won't work, durr. AC fuse was blown, works when replaced. Also think I'm going to replace the resistor as settings 1/2 have never worked, and I didn't realize how accessible it was. The other car I had where the lower 2 settings died the resistor was buried behind the center console. E3: replacement fuse blew as soon as I turned the defrost on. Note to self, unplug AC compressor before using defrost 
TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Oct 27, 2014 |
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Oct 27, 2014 15:22
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TrueChaos posted:So I finally had a chance to take a good look at the noise coming from the AC compressor area, and wound up just cutting the belt off. The idler pulley is fine, the pulley on the compressor has about 1/4" of play and was wearing away the sides of the belt. Also, it looks like two bushings are gone from the plate on the front of the pulley, it moves around with my hand. See - I replaced the compressor pulley on mine, from a junkyard unit.
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Oct 27, 2014 19:21
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So uh, if you guys heard a noise from your engine that sounded like rod knock, then started pulling out the engine, and found one of the four torque converter/flexplate bolts back out a couple of turns, and another just finger tight, would you just tighten those up and put everything back together, and curse yourself for wasting a bunch of time?
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Oct 27, 2014 19:50
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Elder Postsman posted:So uh, if you guys heard a noise from your engine that sounded like rod knock, then started pulling out the engine, and found one of the four torque converter/flexplate bolts back out a couple of turns, and another just finger tight, would you just tighten those up and put everything back together, and curse yourself for wasting a bunch of time? Crank those fuckers down with a torque wrench, maybe put some lock tight on them. Be happy your motor is not knocking and pretend it was all a bad dream.
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Oct 27, 2014 20:07
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Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Nov 28, 2018 |
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Oct 27, 2014 20:24
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^^^ Sup, wagon buddy. Today I finally got fed up enough to start busting heads and figure out why my driver-side speakers have been going out. Cue finding this, hacked up and held in with one original screw and one wood screw:  gently caress you, PO. The rabbit hole gets deeper every day. e: yes, the brown is all rust. e2: phone posting, sorry. Naked Bear fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Oct 27, 2014 |
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Oct 27, 2014 21:33
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My PS pump is leaking and though replacing the inlet o-ring stopped the reservoir from foaming I fear the damage is done, as it squeals like a bastard on cold mornings. The OEM part is like $500 (05 legacy gt) and after reading DrPain's thread, those cheap A1 Cardone rebuilds aren't looking so hot. I saw that NAPA sells rebuilds with an actual warranty, would that be a good way to go?
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Oct 28, 2014 02:34
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Hey, so ive got this wrx..  Its great! I super love it. Its dented and a bit banged up from city life and 190k worth of adventures, but it was cheap and runs great. Ive put a miltek 3" turbo back on it, and am using an accessport with a cobb stage 2 map. Everything else is stock. Only problems I have are some minor hesitation hiccups below 3k rpm. Never too bad, though, but its annoying. Ive been doing some datalogs, but still kind of suck at reading them. Id really like to know whats causing the hesitation. And itd also be pretty nice to know my engine isnt gonna pop. It had a rebuild about 30k ago, and is pretty well maintained. But I do want to start replacing things, as needed. There is still some old rubber and so on in there, starting with vacuum lines. Would anyone mind checking out my most recent log? http://i59.tinypic.com/20jscqp.png Im mostly worried about the DAM. Shouldnt it be at 16? Or is it okay where it is at 13, as long as it isnt changing? Any other indications of impending doom i should be aware of??
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Oct 28, 2014 02:46
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Scrambles posted:My PS pump is leaking and though replacing the inlet o-ring stopped the reservoir from foaming I fear the damage is done, as it squeals like a bastard on cold mornings. The OEM part is like $500 (05 legacy gt) and after reading DrPain's thread, those cheap A1 Cardone rebuilds aren't looking so hot. I saw that NAPA sells rebuilds with an actual warranty, would that be a good way to go? It could be the belt. I might try that first -- I thought I had a dead one like twice.
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Oct 28, 2014 03:41
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Speaking of PS pumps, how do you guys handle your fluid changes? Turkey baster/fluid pump in the reservoir and cranking the wheel a bajillion times, draining from the pump return line completely, or ???
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Oct 28, 2014 05:03
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McSpatula posted:Speaking of PS pumps, how do you guys handle your fluid changes? Turkey baster/fluid pump in the reservoir and cranking the wheel a bajillion times, draining from the pump return line completely, or ??? I turkey baste out as much as I can get easily, then put in more stuff, then do a tire-warming lap around the block, then turkey baste some more out, and repeat until it's coming back the same colour it went in. It usually only takes two reps. Which is good, because by then all the parents in the playground zone at the end of my street have called the cops.
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Oct 28, 2014 05:17
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I usually take the return hose off of the reservoir and stick it in some sort of catch bottle, then start the engine and let the PS pump do the work. Stand there refilling the reservoir making sure it doesn't go dry while someone else is in the vehicle to slowly turn the wheel lock to lock. Doesn't take more than 5-10 seconds for the fluid to start coming out clean. Stick the hose back on and fill to proper level, bam, done. Also, make your helper start the engine so you can be ready to dump fluid in right away because the tank will empty in about 1/10th of a second. Just have several OPEN bottles ready to go. Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Oct 28, 2014 |
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Oct 28, 2014 05:39
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Slow is Fast posted:Crank those fuckers down with a torque wrench, maybe put some lock tight on them. Be happy your motor is not knocking and pretend it was all a bad dream. Welp. Wife is gonna be happy because her car will run again, but pissed because it's been up on jackstands with the engine half-out for a month and a half. 
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Oct 28, 2014 05:53
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I bought a 98 outback with 172k from my boss for $500. Needed new brakes in the front, a good cleaning, minor cosmetic repairs and a new windshield. It's in fantastic shape for Alaska - interior cleaned up really nicely and very, very little rust. It even came with a brand new set of winterforce studs on steelies,, in addition to the the Toyo Observes with 75% that were already on it. After the brakes and other poo poo minus the windshield, I'm only about $800 into this entire thing. Until the other night when the dreaded EJ25 headgasket failure manifested itself. Luckily, there are lots and lots of Subarus here, so plenty of people work on them. The mechanic we use for our Taxis (one of which is also an 09 outback) will be doing the headgaskets for me, along with all the other poo poo that needs to be done like the timing belt, water pump etc. I've ordered some SixStar gaskets over the Subaru OEM composite ones. I went into buying this car knowing all this maintenance would have to be done at some point, so the idea of having to pay for it doesn't sting quite so much. One of the other cab drivers in town recommended I take it to the place he goes, which is supposed to be very good, but it's also 70 miles away from where we live. I'm not in the mood to pay for a flatbed to take the car to a shop an hour and a half away. He drives a 90s legacy wagon with almost half a million miles on the clock, so they're probably doing something right up there, though.
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Oct 28, 2014 23:25
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