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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I need 69 (haw haw) led cans. I'm looking at the utilitech 700 lumen 2700k which are about $22each. Any alternative I should consider? The halo led cans are pretty nice
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Oct 31, 2014 22:37
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I need 69 (haw haw) led cans. I'm looking at the utilitech 700 lumen 2700k which are about $22each. Any alternative I should consider? I put in several of the Lithonia cans and I like them a lot. They've got cree (or cree-like) engines so the light is 'correct' and they dim well, coming on at any brightness. One of them hummed a lot, so I got another and it didn't so I'm pretty sure it was a defect.
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Nov 1, 2014 01:00
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Another idea is to screw a wood plate (like 3/8" plywood cut to the size of the cabinet body, or a bit smaller) to the stud & then you can screw the cabinet mounts to it. There might be a li'l gap on each side, but that could be covered in some type of trim.
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Nov 1, 2014 03:54
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No Gravitas posted:The passive version is what was on sale. Intel went crazy. Instead of 1500-2000$, I got mine for 79.40$. Plus shipping. Exactly what I wanted for my work. Where did you get one for $80? I want one for $80!
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Nov 1, 2014 06:25
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insta posted:Where did you get one for $80? I want one for $80! Sorry, the best you can do now is 142$, and that is in three week backorder. The 79.60$ deal was also on Amazon, so if you want to get it at the absolute cheapest, you can keep on checking. It keeps coming and going. No shipping outside from the USA on either deal, but I'm using a forwarding service. Some places will sell it for 150$, not sure if they are sold out yet. Here is the 142$: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-BC31S1P-Xeon-31S1P-Coprocessor/dp/B00OMCB4JI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1414821184&sr=8-9&keywords=xeon+phi Here is the 150$. Shipping works out of the USA... for 60$. Ouch. http://www.advancedclustering.com/products/phigpu-systems/special-promotion-save-90-intel-xeon-phi/ There is also an option for 125$ each, if you buy 10 or more, but... well... Keep in mind: You need to cool it yourself, most computers won't even let it turn on, most motherboard won't recognize it, you likely need Linux to get anywhere far, you need Intel's compilers to make it run anywhere near "fast" and the thing weights a kilogram and a bit... On topic: Going with 80mm fan strapped to the exhaust. It will pull air through the Xeon and out of the case, this in addition to a small push fan within the case. If that does not work well enough, I will let the big fan push the air into the case with the small fan pulling. The datasheet says I can do that and my case is very well ventilated. I may avoid most ducting that way. Otherwise I will get a bigger fan and duct down. Thanks for help, everyone. I think I'm good from here.
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Nov 1, 2014 07:05
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Nov 1, 2014 18:28
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The thing is meant to be hung, right? How do they expect you to do it. I would do the lag bolts plus toggle bolts, and use big rear end washers on all of them.
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Nov 1, 2014 18:35
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:The thing is meant to be hung, right? How do they expect you to do it. The washers are a great idea, but I don't really feel comfortable using this particular unit. I've been doing a lot of work on the bathroom, and I can say with confidence that the drywall shouldn't be trusted to support that kind of weight. It'd be different story if the stud in the middle could be utilized, but I think I'm better off finding a cabinet that allows for that. melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Nov 1, 2014 |
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Nov 1, 2014 18:40
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Replace the backing material (which is probably MDF, medium-density fiberboard, and should not be trusted with basically anything) with some plywood. You can get a 2'x4' sheet of sanded plywood from Home Depot or the like and they can cut it down to size for you, if you don't have the appropriate tools.
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Nov 1, 2014 18:56
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I'm trying to replace a piece of weather stripping on our exterior door, but I'm feeling like a moron because I can't get this loving poo poo to go into the kerf at all. It shouldn't be very difficult, right? I've thought about using a screwdriver to "persuade" the stripping, but I don't want to damage it, either. Any other suggestions?
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Nov 1, 2014 19:06
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So someone in the house I bought took down some wallpaper and didn't clean the glue off before painting over it. Now I have awesome textured walls I want to paint. How do I get rid of that? Is there something easy that will take the paint off or cover it evenly? Or just sand the poo poo out of it?
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Nov 1, 2014 19:40
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melon cat posted:Yes, it is meant to be hung. The larger bolts they provided go into a fixture that's in each of the cabinet's corners. And the assembly instructions seem to assume that there are either usable studs in those areas, or that your drywall isn't crap quality. Make a French cleat. Top portion will be screwed to the frame. Bottom portion can be screwed to the stud in the center and fastened with appropriate toggles on the ends.
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Nov 1, 2014 20:06
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hooah posted:I'm trying to replace a piece of weather stripping on our exterior door, but I'm feeling like a moron because I can't get this loving poo poo to go into the kerf at all. It shouldn't be very difficult, right? I've thought about using a screwdriver to "persuade" the stripping, but I don't want to damage it, either. Any other suggestions? You should be able to press weatherstripping into a kerf with just your hands. What's the problem? Too wide? Panthrax posted:So someone in the house I bought took down some wallpaper and didn't clean the glue off before painting over it. Now I have awesome textured walls I want to paint. How do I get rid of that? Is there something easy that will take the paint off or cover it evenly? Or just sand the poo poo out of it? Sand it and use wallpaper paste remover would be my suggestion. You could also float over it with drywall mud.
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Nov 1, 2014 20:30
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EDIT: Wrong thread. Disregard this dumb post.
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Nov 1, 2014 21:14
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Just moved to upstate NY and am living in a drafty, old farmhouse. For the last week I've been caulking seams, filling big gaps with foam, replacing door sweeps and weatherstripping, etc. But I'm not sure what to do about the backdoor. The weather strip is a vinyl "V" type and still in good condition, it doesn't need replacing. The problem is that the door doesn't really fit the frame. The frame is a bit too large, and being an old farmhouse, not quite level or square. Which means the weatherstrip contacts the door towards the bottom, but as you move to the top, a gap forms. I have a piece of foam weatherstrip on the door itself for now, but it is already tearing. Thoughts? The landlord suggested I screw a piece of wood to the outside and place a strip of weatherstrip on that, so it butts up flush to the front of the door. This seems...not optimal. It'll also be ugly as hell and get in the way of the handle.
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Nov 2, 2014 14:15
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Can you pull the trim and shim the door frame.
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Nov 2, 2014 17:59
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Two of the center legs on my bed have broken. I'm trying to find the best way to fix them. Here's how it should look:  Here's how the two broken ones attach:  As you can see in the close-up, the metal dealie that screws into the wooden leg so that a screw can be...uhh...screwed into it has worn away the wood, so it just slides in and out freely:  Here's the metal dealie: (I know they havea name, I just ca't remember what it is right now)  Should I fill in the hole with wood putty, then after it dries, just drill a new pilot hole for the dealie and screw it back in? Maybe also use a glue of some sort?
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Nov 2, 2014 18:27
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polyfractal posted:Just moved to upstate NY and am living in a drafty, old farmhouse. For the last week I've been caulking seams, filling big gaps with foam, replacing door sweeps and weatherstripping, etc. But I'm not sure what to do about the backdoor. The weather strip is a vinyl "V" type and still in good condition, it doesn't need replacing. The problem is that the door doesn't really fit the frame. The frame is a bit too large, and being an old farmhouse, not quite level or square. How bad a gap are we talking here? I don't think you will need to mount a second board. Remounting the frame is an option, but there exist small frame-mounted weather strips that should work as long as the frame still covers all the way around the door.
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Nov 2, 2014 18:29
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DrBouvenstein- That metal thingy is called a threaded insert (I learned that many, many pages back in this very thread!). Is it at all possible for you to pick up some decent quality lumber of the same size/dimensions and just create some new legs? That way, you'd be able to just drill a hole, pop in the threaded insert, and it'd be a more long term, effective fix.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Nov 2, 2014 |
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Nov 2, 2014 18:30
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DrBouvenstein posted:Here's the metal dealie: (I know they havea name, I just ca't remember what it is right now) That's an "insert nut". You could try the toothpick trick with some wood glue instead of that wood putty. Clean up the hole, fill the hole with wood glue, keep inserting and breaking off toothpicks until it's full, then keep hammering in toothpicks until you can't fit in anymore. Let it dry overnight, then cut the toothpicks off flush, drill a new hole for that nut and use an Allen wrench to screw it in. Edit: ^^^^^^^^ I used to work for a fastener company. A "threaded insert" is technically something slightly different. Those are the little brass nuts with ribs on the sides that are pressed into or cast in plastic. But there is definitely some overlap in which is called what. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Nov 2, 2014 |
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Nov 2, 2014 18:36
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melon cat posted:DrBouvenstein- That metal thingy is called a threaded insert (I learned that many, many pages back in this very thread!). Is it at all possible for you to pick up some decent quality lumber of the same size/dimensions and just create some new legs? That way, you'd be able to just drill a hole, pop in the threaded insert, and it'd be a more long term, effective fix. Technically possible, but I wouldn't want to do that. I live in an apartment, and don't have any power tools other than a drill/driver. I suppose it's possible to get Home Depot or Lowes to cut me a couple 2x2's of the same length, but they not only have the insert nut at the top, they have one at the bottom for the adjustable feet:  I don't trust myself to drill hole THAT long and keep it perfectly straight. Though I suppose it might be possible to buy a new insert nut + adjustable foot screw combo that's shorter? I certainly don't need it to be ~3 inches.
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Nov 2, 2014 18:46
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The furniture company did it that way so they could ship it flatter and not worry about it. Unless your plans for this bed include "tearing down the whole thing and shipping it in the flattest box possible" I would just screw normal wood screws into that (or a replacement) leg from the top. And that's still totally un-doable if you want to, really. \/\/ Most people don't have a little box of wooden dowels in their pantry! Corla Plankun fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Nov 2, 2014 |
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Nov 2, 2014 20:09
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Any particular reason to use toothpicks instead of a length of dowel? That's what I've used in the past when I need to re-drill holes.
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Nov 2, 2014 20:31
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Corla Plankun posted:The furniture company did it that way so they could ship it flatter and not worry about it. Unless your plans for this bed include "tearing down the whole thing and shipping it in the flattest box possible" I would just screw normal wood screws into that (or a replacement) leg from the top. My thoughts entirely. Reinforce with some 90 degree metal braces if you're concerned about screwing into endgrain (which you probably should be...)
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Nov 2, 2014 23:19
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Yeah, I was thinking of what i could do relatively fast with what i have. I have glue, putty, and toothpicks. I have a few woodscrews so i could just affix it more permanently, but no L brackets. Should least at least a night before i can get them, though.
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Nov 2, 2014 23:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any particular reason to use toothpicks instead of a length of dowel? That's what I've used in the past when I need to re-drill holes. Dowels would work too. I recommended toothpicks because everybody has them already in their house. I've also heard of variations of that trick done with golf tees and disposable chopsticks.
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Nov 2, 2014 23:49
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Can someone tell me what the gently caress this is? I'm going through and doing an inventory of the alarms in my apartment. So far I've found such stupidity as two fire alarms placed next to each other- one battery powered missing some kind of panasonic lithium battery and one hardwired with a battery backup. Nobody installed a CO alarm, apparently. At the end of the hallway where my bedroom is this thing is above it. Attempts to pry it off and investigate have been unfruitful and i'm afraid of using brute force to get it off in fear of damaging it.
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Nov 3, 2014 04:49
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I believe that's a motion sensor.
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Nov 3, 2014 04:51
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jovial_cynic posted:I believe that's a motion sensor. Haha man, that's funny. Probably has to do with the dormant alarm system that looks like it hasn't been used since the 80s. How do people feel about the nest smoke alarm? Looks like its not a total pain in the rear end unlike the beige puck models I've been messing with all night.
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Nov 3, 2014 04:59
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It might be some kind of alarm but it sure as hell looks like a motion sensor.
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Nov 3, 2014 05:37
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I put some windows into a part of the house I'm renovating. I've got bituminous membrane flashing around the perimeter of the window (top, sides, bottom): Do I need to put metal Z-flashing around the top of the window as well or will the membrane be sufficient? If I don't need to, should I anyways?
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Nov 3, 2014 05:58
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Which big-box retailer is best to buy a new kitch countertop + cabinets from? We're planning on re-doing our kitchen, and aren't sure if we should plan it through Lowe's, Home Depot, or IKEA. IKEA seems to have some decent deals, but the poor quality of the stuff we've previously bought from them has made me skeptical.
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Nov 3, 2014 15:40
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melon cat posted:Which big-box retailer is best to buy a new kitch countertop + cabinets from? We're planning on re-doing our kitchen, and aren't sure if we should plan it through Lowe's, Home Depot, or IKEA. IKEA seems to have some decent deals, but the poor quality of the stuff we've previously bought from them has made me skeptical. Ikea's cabinets are higher quality than the rest of their stuff. I really don't know how they stack up against big box stores, but I have heard a couple success stories from IKEA and no complaints.
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Nov 3, 2014 20:27
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I have had the cheapest IKEA cabinets in my kitchen for the last ten years and they don't show any sign of fatigue. The worktop is another story. The cheapest particleboard one isn't watertight on the underside. If you regularly have water dripping over the edge, it will find its way inside and make the particleboard balloon locally. It's been through a few redisigns through the years, but the search for cheaper production methods is making this issue worse. So don't get the cheapest worktop, basically.
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Nov 3, 2014 20:54
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Before buying big box store cabinets check into other cabinet stores. Just be sure to get a detailed quote in writing and check their references.
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Nov 3, 2014 21:45
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Hello goons. I rent in an older lowrise apartment with single pane slider windows like so: .I would love to know how I can get screens for these windows so we can leave them open without getting bugs up in our poo poo. I have had lots of constructions jobs but have never seen any kind of retrofitted screen that would work on there. Thanks in advance.
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Nov 4, 2014 06:49
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I have a high efficiency gas furnace heating hot water for old school radiators. The furnace target temperature is set to 122 degrees F, which sounds kind of low to me. Is that a reasonable temperature? Or should I turn it up?
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Nov 4, 2014 15:12
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VelociBacon posted:Hello goons. I rent in an older lowrise apartment with single pane slider windows like so: I'd just get a screen kit like so: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Phifer-5-16-in-x-60-in-x-60-in-White-Aluminum-Screen-Frame-Kit-3021678/202091967#product_description then use something like command strips to attach it (unless there are already mounting holes or you don't mind making holes then just screw it in place)
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Nov 4, 2014 15:17
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armorer posted:I have a high efficiency gas furnace heating hot water for old school radiators. The furnace target temperature is set to 122 degrees F, which sounds kind of low to me. Is that a reasonable temperature? Or should I turn it up? If it's running 24/7 and can't keep your place warm, turn it up. Otherwise, leave it as is.
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Nov 4, 2014 17:21
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Zhentar posted:If it's running 24/7 and can't keep your place warm, turn it up. Otherwise, leave it as is. This is almost too simple of a response, but it makes perfect sense. I grew up with radiators that would pump out tons of heat and burn you if you leaned on them. At 122 degrees I could take a nap against one of these, so I sort of assumed that I was losing out on some efficiency or something with it set so low.
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Nov 4, 2014 18:58
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