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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:Oh, and turn on "back button focus" Why is this better?
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 07:00 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 07:41 |
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You can release without refocusing.
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 10:03 |
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smooth.operator posted:Why is this better? With nicer lenses (anything with full time manual focus) you can switch to manual focusing whenever you want just by not pressing the back button--clicking the shutter won't trigger it. Also don't have to play shutter-chicken and hold the button halfway down to focus and recompose. Click back button to focus, halfway down on the shutter locks exposure, all the way down takes the picture. If you are taking a lot of pictures on a tripod, only have to focus once on your subject. As long as distance stays the same, you can recompose and shoot without refocusing. I never used it until I got an EOS-3 from Mr. BlandAverage that was already set for back button focus. Now its my preferred method of shooting.
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 16:11 |
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I have no idea what any of this mean.
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 16:22 |
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It's an option you can use so that the camera does the focusing part of pre-exposure separately from the part where it decides how bright the scene is. It's useful sometimes, but really not something you should worry about while you're still learning how to camera.
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 16:34 |
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smooth.operator posted:Why is this better? For a lot of reasons. But mostly because a dSLR is a camera where you are supposed to have discrete control over everything, but the default is to cram 3 functions (focus, exposure, shutter) into one button for convenience. As others have mentioned, moving the focus off the shutter is better because you'll often run into situations where you do not what to activate the auto focus every time you want to take a shot. This can be especially frustrating because the default is also to turn on all the focus points and let the camera guess at which one to focus on. And long term, it isn't bad to get into the habit of thinking of focusing as its own step, and not as something that happens automatically a split second before you release the shutter. Elliotw2 posted:It's useful sometimes, but really not something you should worry about while you're still learning how to camera. I personally found the back button focus to be really helpful starting out, because it meant I could leave the focus as a constant when playing with the other settings. But then again, I wasn't a complete SLR newbie when I got my first dSLR. Eugene Oregon posted:I have no idea what any of this mean. Well, what do you understand? You said you have the basic idea of exposure. Are you just hung up on how to actually set your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO?
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 19:16 |
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I can see why that would be useful for landscapes and pictures of inanimate stuff but if you're shooting moving subjects like wildlife or sports there are very few times you'd ever want to be using that setting.
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 20:21 |
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Kenshin posted:I can see why that would be useful for landscapes and pictures of inanimate stuff but if you're shooting moving subjects like wildlife or sports there are very few times you'd ever want to be using that setting. I just switch to AI Servo and then hold the back button down.
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 20:30 |
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:I just switch to AI Servo and then hold the back button down. I do that when I use my A100 but on accident since I'm left eye dominant
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# ? Nov 2, 2014 21:19 |
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:I just switch to AI Servo and then hold the back button down. This. If you're shooting fast moving subjects, you don't want single shot focus, and AI servo with your thumb is still better than combining it with the shutter.
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 03:39 |
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:Well, what do you understand? You said you have the basic idea of exposure. Are you just hung up on how to actually set your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO? Nope. I understand the relationship between those three, pretty well. I guess people started talking about different types of focus, back buttons, and servos. I got overwhelmed. I'm also 100% sure that these aren't things I should be worrying about right now, though. Like worrying about double-clutching a car before I can even shift out of first!
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 03:44 |
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I tried using the back button for focus today and I didn't like it much mostly because A) now there is some extra poo poo I have to tell people who use my camera B) the button is kind of in an uncomfortable spot C) I am really used to half press for focus and I could count on one hand the amount of times i found the camera refocusing when i hit the shutter to be undesirable If I ever get a battery grip maybe I'll revisit using the button for focus
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 04:10 |
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:And long term, it isn't bad to get into the habit of thinking of focusing as its own step, and not as something that happens automatically a split second before you release the shutter. In short, unless you're shooting sports, you probably don't want the focus in the center of the frame, and moving the focus point with the D-pad* is a chore, as is setting the focus with a half-press of the shutter button and then holding it there while composing. I mean, the latter works fine for newspaper work, but if you want to bracket exposures or just have a second one for insurance, it's a bit of a pain. *how does that work on Canons? Do you just have to scroll through every possible focus point with the thumbwheel? Beowulfs_Ghost posted:I personally found the back button focus to be really helpful starting out, because it meant I could leave the focus as a constant when playing with the other settings. But then again, I wasn't a complete SLR newbie when I got my first dSLR. There's the old adage "f/8 and be there." There's the sunny 16 rule, but unless you're shooting a polar bear on a snowbank on a cloudless day, you're probably going to want f/8 and shutter speed 1/[your film speed/sensor ISO] or equivalent in daylight. If you're good, you can use that rule of thumb and past experience to get at least close to the proper exposure. If you're mot good and it's 1985, you get a Gossen Luna Pro; nowadays you just shoot a frame and look at it on the back of the camera before the kickoff. The important bit is being ther Photography is like writing, painting, or any other art; you can take all the classes, learn the "rules", but the only way to be really good at it is to go out and do. You'll make a lot of poo poo, but eventually you'll learn what works. If you can take one photography class, I'd suggest Photojournalism -- most photo classes are the same as any other art class, just "here's some theory, now make An Art,"
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 04:46 |
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Eugene Oregon posted:Nope. Honestly, if you have a grasp of exposure, then the fiddly things like how to set one-shot vs servo focus are the things you should be playing with. Assuming that your knowledge of exposure means you are already using the manual modes. If you are still using the green square mode, then move the dial to P, Av, Tv, and M, and start playing with those.
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 05:19 |
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Dren posted:I tried using the back button for focus today and I didn't like it much mostly because A, when you hand your camera to someone else, put it on auto anyway. B, what camera? C, try it for longer. Once it becomes natural, you'll wonder why you haven't always done it.
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 15:02 |
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How to camera: 1. Pick up camera. 2. Go for a walk. Wild EEPROM posted:shoot shoot shoot shoot shoot
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 15:06 |
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torgeaux posted:A, when you hand your camera to someone else, put it on auto anyway. I gave it another shot and I think my hands are too big to comfortably reach the button with my thumb, grip the camera, and hit the shutter. It's a D7000. Like I said maybe if I had a battery grip it'd be ok.
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 15:32 |
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:Honestly, if you have a grasp of exposure, then the fiddly things like how to set one-shot vs servo focus are the things you should be playing with. Assuming that your knowledge of exposure means you are already using the manual modes. If you are still using the green square mode, then move the dial to P, Av, Tv, and M, and start playing with those. I usually shoot in Av mode unless there is an overriding reason to do otherwise. So tell me more about the other focus modes on my T5i. I have no idea what they do. Likewise with the light metering.
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 16:12 |
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Eugene Oregon posted:I usually shoot in Av mode unless there is an overriding reason to do otherwise. So tell me more about the other focus modes on my T5i. I have no idea what they do. Likewise with the light metering. focus modes are: One shot, AI Focus, AI Servo one shot means "focus once and stop" AI Servo means "continuously focus and adjust for a moving subject" AI Focus is supposed to be a combination of the two - starts in one shot, if it sees movement switches to servo. In theory it's nice, but it usually doesn't work all that hot in practice so most people don't use it. So if youre doing still subjects, use one shot, moving subjects, AI Servo Metering modes: Evaluative: Meter the whole scene to get an average exposure, weighted towards active AF point Center Weighted Average: Meter the whole scene, but with a heavy weighting towards the center of the frame (30% or so coverage) Spot: Meter just off the little circle at the center of the frame (12% of frame) Partial: Meter just off a larger circle at the center of the frame (20-30% coverage, I forget exact #)
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# ? Nov 3, 2014 16:33 |
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Is getting accurate WB manually using a card worth it? Or can you just adjust from the camera auto in Light room?
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 01:33 |
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On a modern camera, it'll get close enough in auto white balance, 90% of the time. In the remaining 10% of cases a card could help if the lighting is going to be steady for the entirety of whatever you're shooting.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 01:36 |
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"Don't use back button for autofocus" crew checking in. I mean do if that's what makes you happy but it's not some critical pro-tip.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 02:32 |
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What is this back button people keep mentioning?
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 02:54 |
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Red_Fred posted:Is getting accurate WB manually using a card worth it? Or can you just adjust from the camera auto in Light room? If you're in really challenging lighting conditions or somewhere where you know your camera has issues shoot Jpeg + Raw and adjust in post as necessary.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 03:02 |
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Eugene Oregon posted:What is this back button people keep mentioning?
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 03:19 |
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If you're a canon user, then af-on.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 03:21 |
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Wild EEPROM posted:If you're a canon user, then af-on. If you're a rebel user, then *. grack posted:If you're in really challenging lighting conditions or somewhere where you know your camera has issues shoot Jpeg + Raw and adjust in post as necessary. Shot a halloween show for some friends and holy gently caress am I glad that there is the option to shoot in raw. Only stage lighting was red lights, and I'd really like to get something out of them other than black and white shots.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 03:54 |
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Ah. My T5i appears to not have that button.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 03:57 |
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Eugene Oregon posted:Ah. My T5i appears to not have that button. Like I said above, on Rebels it has to be assigned to the * button. On nicer bodies you get an AF-On button in addition to the * button.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 04:04 |
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Eugene Oregon posted:Ah. My T5i appears to not have that button. Look at the top of the camera. On the right side, by the "OFF" marker, there will be a * (asterisk). The button on the back below the * can be set to be the button that activates the auto-focus on your camera, instead of half pressing the shutter. This only applies in the manual modes. If you want to hand the camera to a friend, switch it to auto and the focus goes back to half pressing the shutter. I'm a big fan of it. Some people like it, and some people don't. It falls under one of those "how should I use my camera" things. Like exposure settings, single shot vs continuous, setting focus points, and so on. Set it, and take a bunch of pictures, see if you like it. Then do that with the other settings. Try using just the center focus point (tends to be the most accurate). Try setting it to continuous shooting. Try the different exposure modes, like center weighted or spot. See what they do, and get an idea of when you should use them, or when they will trip you up. Take thousands of photos of your cat or your computer desk while playing with all the settings. You'll get an idea of what you like to use and how to set it without having to dig out the manual later. People here aren't saying "take lots of photos" to be flippant. You only get experience with these different settings by playing with them a lot.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 07:09 |
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I read this guy's thing one time about all the different focus modes of the D7000, what each one was especially good at, and how he'd developed a little game to practice using each one so he'd be great at choosing the right AF for the right situation every time like some kind of AF ninja. I played with my AF modes a little more after reading that but what I found was that full auto AF does the right thing almost every time. So I only go in and override it in specific situations when it isn't correct. Anyway this back button thing seems a lot like the AF ninja thing. Sometimes it would be useful and it's nice that the option is there but most of the time I can let the camera do AF on shutter press because it works pretty well. I really don't like where the button is for my hand and there are other options for situations where I want to focus once then keep that focus such as flipping the lens or body to manual focus.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 14:44 |
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Dren posted:I read this guy's thing one time about all the different focus modes of the D7000, what each one was especially good at, and how he'd developed a little game to practice using each one so he'd be great at choosing the right AF for the right situation every time like some kind of AF ninja. I played with my AF modes a little more after reading that but what I found was that full auto AF does the right thing almost every time. So I only go in and override it in specific situations when it isn't correct. None of it matters. Back button has more versatility, but if it's awkward, it's not worth it. It's unlikely to make enough difference to overcome the physical discomfort it causes you.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 15:12 |
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torgeaux posted:None of it matters. Back button has more versatility, but if it's awkward, it's not worth it. It's unlikely to make enough difference to overcome the physical discomfort it causes you. Try both and use whichever method pisses you off the least. There's no objectively correct answer.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 21:29 |
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SoundMonkey posted:Try both and use whichever method pisses you off the least. There's no objectively correct answer. +1 - I was glad when Canon started adding the AF-ON button, because I like not feather holding the shutter in ai servo, but for one shot I'd rather it just be on the shutter. So now best of both worlds instead of switching back and forth.
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 21:34 |
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timrenzi574 posted:+1 - I was glad when Canon started adding the AF-ON button, because I like not feather holding the shutter in ai servo, but for one shot I'd rather it just be on the shutter. So now best of both worlds instead of switching back and forth. It's also kinda handy in some situations where something unexpected happens and you just mash the shutter down all the way for basically "start shooting as soon as the AF gets a lock."
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# ? Nov 4, 2014 21:38 |
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Are there any DSLRs that are similar in body shape to the Nikon FM2? I learned using one as a hand-me down, and wanted something familiar for my first DSLR. I saw that they made a dF, but not only does the body alone go for 2k+ used, but it's also significantly fatter and has a grip on the front.
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# ? Nov 5, 2014 18:08 |
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Other than the Df, not really. If you can deal with an EVF, there are mirrorless options like the Fuji Xt1 or the Olympus OM-D which are similar in style and operation.
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# ? Nov 5, 2014 19:05 |
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everythingWasBees posted:Are there any DSLRs that are similar in body shape to the Nikon FM2? I learned using one as a hand-me down, and wanted something familiar for my first DSLR. I saw that they made a dF, but not only does the body alone go for 2k+ used, but it's also significantly fatter and has a grip on the front. Not a DSLR exactly, but the Fujifilm XT-1 has basically nailed the compact film SLR form factor /aesthetic.
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# ? Nov 5, 2014 20:54 |
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The OM-Ds are pretty close too, although they're more me super in size than FM2.
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# ? Nov 5, 2014 20:58 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 07:41 |
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So I've been toying with the back-button focus on my T5i, and I don't think I'm doing it right. If I try to focus on something and press the button, it comes into focus...eventually. But no where near the speed things come into focus when I press the shutter button halfway down. What am I doing wrong?
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# ? Nov 6, 2014 16:30 |