|
Yes. YES. 
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 15:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:16 |
|
|
HardCoil posted:Thanks for the primer advice everybody The answer is"I just bought it" because I'm a lazy rear end. The exact model is the Kotobukiya MSG MW-26 Dynamic Chain Saw. The real trick with buying it is that it's a third-party addon for Gunpla, and Gunpla are so standardized that they basically all use the same joint sockets and so on, so it needed no fitting at all with my base model. Fair warning if you want one for yourself, you have to cut and put together every individual chain link on this thing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 16:33
|
|
I'm sure I was spraying it too thick, the primer was pooling on the models, but I was not sure if that was how it was supposed to be.
|
Calico Noose posted:I think this guy beat you to that idea. It's beautiful  He loads the cannons with a ramrod 
NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Nov 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 17:09
|
|
|
Ha yeah that thing is awesomely badass, I remember when it was posted a while back. I love the dropping cartridges and smoke! So OK, since that's been done, how about someone figuring out how to mount one of those dangerously powerful green lasers on something to actually MELT and KILL your opponent's models? eh? EH?!
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 17:25
|
|
|
That reminds me, what search terms should I use to find those sprues of joints for Gundam figures? Stuff like "hobby joints" or "plastic joints" bring epoxies and plumbing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 17:32
|
|
|
An Angry Bug posted:That reminds me, what search terms should I use to find those sprues of joints for Gundam figures? Stuff like "hobby joints" or "plastic joints" bring epoxies and plumbing. Probably 'gunpla joints'?
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 17:37
|
|
|
An Angry Bug posted:That reminds me, what search terms should I use to find those sprues of joints for Gundam figures? Stuff like "hobby joints" or "plastic joints" bring epoxies and plumbing. Polycaps, polycap joints, or just gunpla joints.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 17:40
|
|
|
Belated Oath thread xxx post     On the downside, all of this got seriously half assed cause poo poo went down irl last month. On the upside, I feel like I've become a decent enough painter that my half rear end poo poo is pretty decent!
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 23:13
|
|
|
I was wondering if anyone had a good guide to working with green stuff? I usually just use it to fill gaps but would like to put some fairly large emblems on new warmachine stuff. I tend to find it hard to work with so I don't know if I'm just mixing it wrong or if it's a case of using improper tools.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 16:02
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:I was wondering if anyone had a good guide to working with green stuff? I usually just use it to fill gaps but would like to put some fairly large emblems on new warmachine stuff. lubricate the tools and your fingers with vaseline or lip balm and it will be so much easier to work with green stuff
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 17:03
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend me a good tutorial (or just give me some tips) on painting a black cloak? I'm just figuring out highlighting and shading more complicated than "paint it a base coat and then use a dark wash on it," but I can't quite seem to get my black cloak to look like anything other than a black sheet with gray stripes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 18:04
|
|
|
Peas and Rice posted:Can anyone recommend me a good tutorial (or just give me some tips) on painting a black cloak? I'm just figuring out highlighting and shading more complicated than "paint it a base coat and then use a dark wash on it," but I can't quite seem to get my black cloak to look like anything other than a black sheet with gray stripes. The base colour needs to be a dark grey, not black.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 18:12
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:I was wondering if anyone had a good guide to working with green stuff? I usually just use it to fill gaps but would like to put some fairly large emblems on new warmachine stuff. What exactly is the problem and which tools are you using? Rubber tools like colour shapers are fantastic for GS. For metal tools, it can be worth spending a little and not buying the cheapest (or GW) tools.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 18:17
|
|
|
serious gaylord posted:The base colour needs to be a dark grey, not black. So dark grey for the base, black wash for the insides of folds, lighter grey highlights?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 18:41
|
|
|
Peas and Rice posted:Can anyone recommend me a good tutorial (or just give me some tips) on painting a black cloak? I'm just figuring out highlighting and shading more complicated than "paint it a base coat and then use a dark wash on it," but I can't quite seem to get my black cloak to look like anything other than a black sheet with gray stripes. What kind of coat is it? For black leather you want it to create a shiny appearance. Here is how I do it Base coat black Highlight P3 Coal Black (it is a slightly blueish black, Incubi Darkness might be a good GW match). This highlight should cover maybe 15 percent of the basecoat. Super thin highlight of light grey (fortress grey) to simulate light reflecting. You only want a really thing line and only where the light would naturally catch. The super thing highlight with a much lighter is the trick to give it a shiny leather appearance. Same rules apply for other colours. E: actually, it is pretty much how I paint all of my black now because it actually looks black rather than dark grey.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 18:42
|
|
|
Peas and Rice posted:So dark grey for the base, black wash for the insides of folds, lighter grey highlights? Yeah. Less is more on black cloaks. For the base i'd get the darkest grey you have and mix in a tiny bit of grey.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 18:43
|
|
|
Peas and Rice posted:So dark grey for the base, black wash for the insides of folds, lighter grey highlights? Yup. Use a highlight that is only a little lighter than the base color, done.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 18:43
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:I was wondering if anyone had a good guide to working with green stuff? I usually just use it to fill gaps but would like to put some fairly large emblems on new warmachine stuff. I have struggled with GS over the years and am finally to the point of ‘decent’. Be prepared to struggle and hate yourself, because the only real way to get good is with practice. However, here are the top 5 things that I learned that impacted my GS skills:
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 19:33
|
|
|
I'd add to that: -Use as little GS as possible. For example, don't sculpt a cloak. Find an almost serviceable cloak and use GS to make it fit.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 22:21
|
|
|
Slightly off the current topic but I just tried weathering powders and oh man they're so much fun to play with. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 22:27
|
|
|
ijyt posted:Slightly off the current topic but I just tried weathering powders and oh man they're so much fun to play with. I love 'em! I keep mine in a drawer, so I like to have a bit of powder on top and drip on some gloss lacquer so I know what color the powder is - basically like putting dots of paint on top of your paint pots.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2014 22:39
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:I love 'em! I keep mine in a drawer, so I like to have a bit of powder on top and drip on some gloss lacquer so I know what color the powder is - basically like putting dots of paint on top of your paint pots. Great idea, but I store mine in a spare KR multicase so I have to drag most of them out anyway. Can't believe I went so long in this hobby without using them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 00:08
|
|
|
moths posted:I'd add to that: Following on from this, use formers. Something to give the GS a base to work on. Its far easier, and you get a much nicer sculpt if you're working onto something. For cloaks I tend to cut out a bit of blister pack into the rough shape I want and then sculpt the basic cloak over the top of that. Wait for it to cure, and then start working in the folds over a number of days. This enables you to get the correct flow and bend without worrying about fingerprints or messing up your delicately sculpted ruffles. The easiest mistake to make with GS work is to try and do it all in one go.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 00:08
|
|
|
I use GS the mostly for banners, oaths of moment, and joints between legs/arms. For the joints I almost always use a paperclip to act as an anchor for the GS and then put a dab of glue in the area between them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 00:50
|
|
|
Quick question here about washing white and other bright colors. I normally just play WWII historical games so when I wash I generally just use a dark brown wash which works well on the tans and greens used on military vehicles. But I attempted this on a brightly colored firestorm armada ship and had some awful looking results. Should I just use a similar color wash for washing the specific parts of the ship that are that color? IE Blue wash on blue parts, grey(?) on white parts, etc...
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 05:51
|
|
|
Yeah, you should generally wash things with like colors unless you're specifically trying to make things muddy. I like blue washes for white, but some folks use black washes. I use orange on yellow, brown/sepia on red, etc.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 06:40
|
|
|
Numlock posted:Should I just use a similar color wash for washing the specific parts of the ship that are that color? IE Blue wash on blue parts, grey(?) on white parts, etc... Hard to say. I used to wash red with red, but after making the switch to washing red with purple, haven't looked back. Experiment with washes since you can get some decent effects with using non matching colours.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 07:04
|
|
|
Think of washes as a filter. You want to apply the filter to get the correct effect over the top. There is, however, another way to think about filters- what effect will you get when you take the wash away. For white you cannot beat a black or dark brown oil wash. It's my favorite wash to do (except for orange over yellow). It has to be oil, however, since you need to remove it afterwards. It's how I get depth for my whites without resorting to painting 10 shades of grey:       Obviously this will make your white contrasted and dirty, which is an effect I love.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 08:39
|
|
|
God drat that's a purdy way to do white.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 17:38
|
|
|
For white, espeically white cloth, I have taken to using a wash of Vallejo Pale (which is a light grey) mixed with a tiny tiny bit of Payne's Grey ink. I usually prefer cooler whites, so that works out well. For a warmer white I would maybe use Menoth White or super duper watered down Sepia. Red washed with Red just looks....red, its hard to get a good shade from it. That's why Baal Red was such garbage. Carroburg Crimson is great but that's because it has a good amount of purple in it. Depending on the look you want you'd probably want either some purple or some brown in the red for shading. Or some green, since green and red makes brown.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 18:31
|
|
|
Dont be afraid to use a green to shade red.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 18:56
|
|
|
I thought you were supposed to use green. Of course covering red with red looks bad.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:01
|
|
|
Welp, I'm going to have to experiment with all of the above red shading suggestions. I've been using crimson to shade my red for my Minotaurs, but the other options might be interesting. A bit too late for my Tau though. Also, regarding colour choices, I'm having a hell of a time deciding what to paint my Skaven's hoods as. I'm not sure I want to paint them leathery, as most of them will have a shade of brown for fur. I've been toying with giving some of them pirate-y blue and white stripes but I'm not sure how'd that look on such small models. Green is out due to plague monks and warpstone reserving that colour. Would love to have some ideas bounced off. 
ijyt fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Nov 7, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:04
|
|
|
ijyt posted:Welp, I'm going to have to experiment with all of the above red shading suggestions. I've been using crimson to shade my red for my Minotaurs, but the other options might be interesting. A bit too late for my Tau though. It really does have an effect on the "texture" of the final object. If you're trying to make rich dark red leather, then a brown would probably work better. Red velvet or heavy cloak material might work better with a purple, etc.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:10
|
|
|
I figured my Tyranid display board needed one extra little touch. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:10
|
|
|
That guy is the grimdark version of 
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:11
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:It really does have an effect on the "texture" of the final object. If you're trying to make rich dark red leather, then a brown would probably work better. Red velvet or heavy cloak material might work better with a purple, etc. I'll definitely keep in mind the purple for my HQ cloaks, but it's mostly just the shoulder pads and weapons. e: That commissar/wounded combo is probably one of my favourite FW sculpts.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:12
|
|
|
Wasn't the executioner guy actually a quartermaster? I never understood that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:15
|
|
|
moths posted:Wasn't the executioner guy actually a quartermaster? I never understood that. Yeah. Comes at part of the quartermaster's retinue. It's a great pack.  The quartermaster himself works great as a commander for platoon command squads. Then you also get a guy that has a bunch of metal arms with medical devices. Could be a techpriest if you wanted, but I'd say works best as the medic in a CCS. Then there's the priest which of course works great for a priest. Not sure what I would use the quartermaster's little errand boy for.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:16 |
|
|
moths posted:Wasn't the executioner guy actually a quartermaster? I never understood that. I guess he's going to acquisition that guys equipment.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2014 19:30
|
|