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I've also noticed that classical guitars tend to stick to a pretty consistent design, probably for the best. The most gimmicky stuff I've seen on them is a cutaway at the bottom like an acoustic and those extra hole-strip-things you can get at the top.
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Nov 13, 2014 21:55
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firebad57 posted:Somebody let me know if this goes against some unwritten rules (didn't see it in the written rules), but I know there are a couple of other classical guitarists who check this thread, and I wanted to share this crazy arrangement my group did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgD2vS7YpEo This is magnificent. Shallow follow-up question: what are the arm-warmers for?
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Nov 13, 2014 22:03
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Gilgameshback posted:This is magnificent. Thanks for the kind words, guys. I wish Mason would play some djent on that thing, though that low A sounds amazing no matter what music we're playing. The arm-warmers are to protect our forearms from the somewhat pointy edge of the guitar. They're actually slightly padded calf compression sleeves, believe it or not. Playing for 6+ hrs a day with your arm resting on a 90 degree angle can be a recipe for some pain, which is why so many new guitars are made with built in armrests there. Speaking of newer guitars and the relatively conservative world of classical luthiery - our new guitars (we had three built at once by the same luthier, http://www.tschannenguitars.com/Home_Page.html) are totally insane by classical standards. They have bolt-on necks (!), which means they are heelless, something practically unheard of in classical guitars. They also have raised fretboards, armrests, 22 frets, and are spruce/cedar doubletops. They are the loudest motherfucking classicals we've heard, and they are very, very pretty. I'll get some pictures soon.
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Nov 13, 2014 22:18
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 Tone-holes!
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Nov 13, 2014 22:21
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sout posted:
I was pretty skeptical about soundports at first, since they make the guitar sound TOTALLY different to the player, but I am cool with mine now. It's like a monitor that you don't need at all because you are playing classical guitar.
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Nov 13, 2014 22:23
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firebad57 posted:Thanks for the kind words, guys. I wish Mason would play some djent on that thing, though that low A sounds amazing no matter what music we're playing. Holy cow that is a crazy rear end guitar. What are you using in lieu of a footstool/effel?
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Nov 13, 2014 22:44
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I bought Justin's Beginner Course and Beginner Songbook books a little while ago and have been learning to play again through those. Tonight was the first time I was able to play one of the songs in the songbook and actually have it sound like the song. It was like an epiphany.
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Nov 14, 2014 04:41
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so my PAF pickups are bouncing/vibrating a bit when I hit baddy chords. it's not too bad but it's something I'd like to nip in the bud, any suggestions? fwiw these are unpotted(but hardly any feedback at high gain) and without covers.
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Nov 14, 2014 16:56
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firebad57 posted:Somebody let me know if this goes against some unwritten rules (didn't see it in the written rules), but I know there are a couple of other classical guitarists who check this thread, and I wanted to share this crazy arrangement my group did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgD2vS7YpEo I play classical guitar and I think you guys kick total rear end. That's an amazing arrangement. Guy in the middle looks like the guy from Supernatural. You should use that in your marketing.
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Nov 15, 2014 01:10
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firebad57 posted:Somebody let me know if this goes against some unwritten rules (didn't see it in the written rules), but I know there are a couple of other classical guitarists who check this thread, and I wanted to share this crazy arrangement my group did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgD2vS7YpEo Hey, nice arrangement! That is my wife's favorite piece - she said she missed the contrast of the violin though (I still like it).I love the story of the three guitars. I guess you guys can never break up or move away from one another!
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Nov 15, 2014 01:24
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Smash it Smash hit posted:so my PAF pickups are bouncing/vibrating a bit when I hit baddy chords. it's not too bad but it's something I'd like to nip in the bud, any suggestions? Baddy... barre chords? Maybe resonance or something, either way I imagine putting some foam around them so they can't budge easily would help.
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Nov 15, 2014 02:47
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JULIAN ASSANGE posted:I play classical guitar and I think you guys kick total rear end. That's an amazing arrangement. Guy in the middle looks like the guy from Supernatural. You should use that in your marketing. My girlfriend loves that show, so she'll be thrilled to hear it. And yes rio, we can never break up 
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Nov 15, 2014 02:55
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Koth posted:I bought Justin's Beginner Course and Beginner Songbook books a little while ago and have been learning to play again through those. Tonight was the first time I was able to play one of the songs in the songbook and actually have it sound like the song. Great to hear. I'm in the same boat! I think Justin's stuff is great. Initially I had a tough time playing the songs when I was learning the first few chords. I think it is because he doesn't start covering the rhythm stuff until the later stages. At one point the chords and rhythm stuff just "clicked" and it felt really cool to play a couple of simple songs. I have been working on chord changes for the past few months and his exercises really help you get better with the shapes and changes. I also ended up switching from an acoustic to an electric. The electric was a lot more forgiving and more comfortable to sit on the couch with while doing the exercises. RagingHematoma fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Nov 15, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 03:03
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Sleepflower posted:Baddy... barre chords? sorry autocorrect it was suppose to be bass or well bass heavy I guess. thabks was hoping I could adjust something but I'll tinker and if not, foam it up
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Nov 15, 2014 03:44
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Smash it Smash hit posted:sorry autocorrect it was suppose to be bass or well bass heavy I guess. thabks was hoping I could adjust something but I'll tinker and if not, foam it up Oh that makes more sense. I'd say fiddle with springs/screws and make sure there are no cracks etc on the mountings but if both of them are doing it then it's probably resonance or whatever and cutting a foam ring/inserts is the way to go (it'd be easier to make hard to see with mounting rings and covered pickups but yeah).
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Nov 15, 2014 03:52
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On a totally different note from my last posts: my group is going to be recording an electric album, an almost all of the pieces are going to be recorded DI. We'll be playing most things live as a trio (three electric guitars), though I am sure we'll be doing plenty of punch-ins and a little overdubbing. We want to use ABY boxes so that we can split our signal and send it to our amps, as well as DI, for monitoring/performance purposes. Basically, we want it to feel like we're just playing the piece as we normally do, but also be sending a clean signal into the DI/computer. My question: is there a real reason to go with the (way) more expensive ABY boxes like the Radial Tonebone and whatnot, at least for our purposes? We're not going to two amps, so bleed seems like way less of an issue. I'd love to just spend $40-50 each on some Morleys or whatever else people think is decent, but I don't want to gently caress up my recording by being cheap.
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Nov 15, 2014 18:31
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I've got a strat right now, and kinda want to get a short-scale guitar like a jaguar. what's the recommended cheapish but not garbage model? probably looking at spending ~400 or so.
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Nov 15, 2014 21:25
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I've been playing with a few different people lately, and my guitars have for the most part been good to handle everything we've been playing, until now. I could really use a guitar set up for drop C tuning, and my Agile 2000 needs a setup, so I was thinking of having that set up for drop C. I then have a VM JM set up for 11's and standard tuning, a Tele with 9's and standard tuning, but I'm kinda now craving a strat or strat copy with HSS to keep set up for keeping a guitar tuned a half step down. Yeah I own a few cheaper guitars already, but honestly with a good setup and after I swap out the pickups they have all been great guitars. Anything in maybe the 300-500 range I should look at? Apart from the Squier models. Pickups/other hardware don't matter that much as I can swap them (pickups are going to almost definitely be swapped) e: Doesn't necessarily have to be a strat. Also I've been thinking instead going HSH and having push/pulls for coil splitting. booshi fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 15, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 21:37
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appropriatemetaphor posted:I've got a strat right now, and kinda want to get a short-scale guitar like a jaguar. what's the recommended cheapish but not garbage model? probably looking at spending ~400 or so. If you want specifically Jaguar-ish, Squier's Vintage Modified Jaguars and Mustangs are your best bet for that price range. Then there's the low-end Fenders, the Modern Players and Blacktop Jaguars, they will all have the scale and body shape; and sacrifice some of the "flaws" (read; features) for upgrades like fixed bridges and humbuckers or P90's. They might be outside your range brand new, but on sale or used you should be able to get them for $400. If you're in the UK, I've seen 24" scale FSR Strats and Teles in online shops there; so that could be a possibility, however they seem to be a bit too far out of your price range.
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Nov 15, 2014 21:47
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Get a Mustang. Vintage Modified, Classic Vibe, Mustang Special, any of the MIC or MIJ Fender Mustangs are some of your best bang for the buck, especially if you don't feel like dealing with the infuriating bridge/tailpiece that the Jags and Jazzes usually have
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Nov 15, 2014 22:18
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juche mane posted:especially if you don't feel like dealing with the infuriating bridge/tailpiece that the Jags and Jazzes usually have With my VMJM, dropping in one of these fixed basically all of those issues for me: http://www.warmoth.com/Modified-Mustang-Bridge-Chrome-P616.aspx So basically yeah if you want something that isn't a Mustang you're probably going to want to buy a bridge like that anyway. Ugh the JM bridge.
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Nov 15, 2014 22:38
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juche mane posted:Get a Mustang. Vintage Modified, Classic Vibe, Mustang Special, any of the MIC or MIJ Fender Mustangs are some of your best bang for the buck, especially if you don't feel like dealing with the infuriating bridge/tailpiece that the Jags and Jazzes usually have Mustang bridge easily beats Jaguar bridge sure, but Jaguar trems are literally the least infuriating trems in existence
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Nov 15, 2014 22:44
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Synonamess Botch posted:Mustang bridge easily beats Jaguar bridge sure, but Jaguar trems are literally the least infuriating trems in existence I've never used a Jazz or Jag, but I found the bridge on the Squier Mustang to be an absolute pain. Especially as I was used to dealing with Strat trems and TOMs. I would definitely try before you buy.
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Nov 16, 2014 00:06
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firebad57 posted:On a totally different note from my last posts: my group is going to be recording an electric album, an almost all of the pieces are going to be recorded DI. We'll be playing most things live as a trio (three electric guitars), though I am sure we'll be doing plenty of punch-ins and a little overdubbing. Radials cost what they do because they're designed to make sure the signal coming out is just as strong as the signal going in. You can't do that with a passive signal splitter. With some setups it won't make a difference, or no more than rolling down your volume knob a bit, but you should definitely try before you buy. The analog-to-digital process in amp modeling generally prefers a full power signal as well. Do you really need an ABY, in that you'll be switching between one output or the other? It sounds like you're going to be running to both the mixer and the your amps at all times. You might be better off with a decent direct box that has a 1/4" in and out, that way you can run a low impedance XLR signal to the board (scratch all that if you need a standard, high-impedance guitar signal for how you're recording). The cheap way, if you do need two guitar signals of equal strength is to use a buffered stereo pedal of some kind that you don't turn on. Run your guitar to a Boss CH-1, for instance, and send one of the signals off to the board. Your tonez will be safe!
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Nov 16, 2014 02:21
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juche mane posted:Get a Mustang. Vintage Modified, Classic Vibe, Mustang Special, any of the MIC or MIJ Fender Mustangs are some of your best bang for the buck, especially if you don't feel like dealing with the infuriating bridge/tailpiece that the Jags and Jazzes usually have The Mustang Special has a normal hardtail strat fixed bridge and rules because of it.
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Nov 16, 2014 03:24
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If anyone's looking for project guitar parts, Rondo has "Boxes o' Bodies" at the bottom of this page. Fully wired guitar and bass bodies in several styles, both lefty and righty. Might be worth a look if you like to tinker.
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Nov 16, 2014 17:13
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Will their pickguards screw right into stock fender teles and strats
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Nov 16, 2014 19:33
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probably not
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Nov 16, 2014 20:06
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juche mane posted:Will their pickguards screw right into stock fender teles and strats You wouldn't really want to honestly, Rondo's pickups are their weakest quality. They're not bad, but you'd be better off going to GFS for a pre-wired or just buy a set.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:46
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I actually mean the blanks for *art*. I have pletny of pickups
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Nov 16, 2014 20:51
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juche mane posted:I actually mean the blanks for *art*. I have pletny of pickups Just buy blank pickguards then, you can do way better than six for $150 + shipping a box of heavy wood. http://www.guitarfetish.com/Pickguards_c_9.html
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Nov 16, 2014 20:54
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Going back to my "I'd really like a strat kept for 1/2 step down tuning that is versatile". I've been playing for 13 years now and never had a strat, and my JM just isn't getting the use I thought because the kinds of music I've been playing with others, and I just tend to go to one of my other two guitars. So, getting rid of the JM, what are the thoughts on getting an Agile/Squier CV strat, and putting in some GFS rails pickups wired so I can split each pickup? e: I don't want to get anything super expensive but still decent as when I gig with guitars I always have bad luck with marking them up.
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Nov 16, 2014 23:40
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^if I was you I would go for a CV. They're well made instruments with consistent quality control and the price is perfect. I need recommendations for strings. I like the NYXLs but I can't seem to keep them to not feel warm and slippery. I know that sounds weird but I'm starting to really dislike the feel. What brand should I try for long lasting, durable strings that stay dry and "cool" feeling. I would go from Cobalts considering I've had a single pair in my 7 for a year and the half and the plains aren't even dulled but they seem to be a little rough on frets, and that Schecter has SS frets.
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Nov 17, 2014 01:04
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booshi posted:Going back to my "I'd really like a strat kept for 1/2 step down tuning that is versatile". I've been playing for 13 years now and never had a strat, and my JM just isn't getting the use I thought because the kinds of music I've been playing with others, and I just tend to go to one of my other two guitars. Look for an old greco strat IMO, make sure it's made in Japan and not Korea (the latter started in the late 80's or early 90's, which is also where the japanese ones start getting cheaper - and they're still great guitars despite getting less attention from MIJ fans), it's what I did just for this and it's great. I've got an HSS one, 1v1t (I find this works better), wired indiviual on/offs for each pickup and push pull pots for coil split on the bridge and phase inversion for the middle pickup. Could replace the latter with a neck split, but I've never tried splitting GFS rails - personally really like the Dimarzio Air Norton S split, but I also prefer cheap ceramic single coils to proper alnico polepiece ones so I'm probably not the guy to ask. Either way, it's tuned 1/2 step down and plenty versatile. Oh and definitely either mess around with a treble bleed cap+resistor (need to get the right value for it to not sound thin rolled off) or the fezz parka mod (way easier, but some interaction between tone/volume), so you can roll off the volume without losing treble as that'll also do a lot for your versatility. I also tend to go with 500k tone pots (but again I like ceramic singles - my amp is kinda dark) because I can just roll them off a bit rather than being limited by 250k. The individual toggles is by far the most important part IMO, you could just include a neck/bridge on switch for neck+bridge sounds (or even do something with the third pot perhaps to make it introduce either of them) as that's common territory stock strats don't cover, but I personally find individual toggles way easier to keep track of, and I like having the little toggles there. The CV suggestion is also good, of course. I prefer a proper bucker in the bridge as that gives you more options, but either way wiring is what's going to get you that versatility from there, go crazy with it!
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Nov 17, 2014 02:54
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Hey guys, so we survived our first day of being open this past Saturday. It was hectic, a lot of people coming in to check things out, say hello, etc. Anyway, I'm in the process of getting our full inventory up on reverb.com, but in the meantime, I figured I'd share a list of what we have, in case anyone was particularly interested in something before it goes up on reverb. The list doesn't include the violins, which I haven't gotten to yet. http://goatpeakstrings.com/goat%20peak%20strings%20inventory%2020141117.pdf I'm not used to retail, i forgot that 90% of the people that walk in are basically insane people looking for a bathroom, free food, or emotional counseling. I'm going to be taking some little video demos of some of the nicer, more rare guitars, like the 1960 ES345, the '52 ES5, and the Tippin dreadnaughts, and all that fun stuff, but if there's something on the list you really want to see me play (poorly), let me know.
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Nov 17, 2014 17:23
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I've got a control plate and white pickguard for a left handed Fender Telecaster. Anyone want these? You pay the cost of shipping but otherwise I'm giving it away for free.
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Nov 17, 2014 17:51
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jwh posted:Hey guys, so we survived our first day of being open this past Saturday. It was hectic, a lot of people coming in to check things out, say hello, etc. Anyway, I'm in the process of getting our full inventory up on reverb.com, but in the meantime, I figured I'd share a list of what we have, in case anyone was particularly interested in something before it goes up on reverb. The list doesn't include the violins, which I haven't gotten to yet. I'm poor and could never afford any of your stuff, but I'd love to come check it out next time I'm heading back to Boston from out west. Anyone have any clips of what gold foils sound like with more distortion? Can't find much and I'm really thinking of putting a gold foil in the neck of my Tele, as I never use the neck pup, and I love the sound of it clean. e: I think I'm getting GAS again 
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Nov 17, 2014 19:55
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We're open Monday and Tuesday by appointment, Wednesday and Thursday to 6pm, Friday and Saturday to 8pm, and Sundays for the holiday season from noon to 5pm. If you're in the area, feel free to drop on by.
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Nov 17, 2014 22:20
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booshi posted:I'm poor and could never afford any of your stuff, but I'd love to come check it out next time I'm heading back to Boston from out west. Somewhere between a P90 and a standard single coil. Not too much bass and a lot of midrange.
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Nov 18, 2014 23:37
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Declan MacManus posted:Somewhere between a P90 and a standard single coil. Not too much bass and a lot of midrange. Hmmm. Sounds fun, and more interesting than the stock neck pup in my Tele. The neck is already routed for a humbucker so I'm going to get one of those GFS gold foils. Especially since the cost is great. I'd finally use my Tele in positions other than just the bridge.
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Nov 19, 2014 00:55
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