|
Swap the plug wires between #3 and #1. Read the plugs too if you get a chance.
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2014 06:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 22:42 |
|
|
kastein posted:
Cylinder 1 & 2 misfire yells coil pack usually.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2014 19:15
|
|
I FINALLY HAVE SOME DTCs!
|
Yeah, since they are in the same waste spark coil and nothing else is shared (injector fuel rails, cams, etc), makes perfect sense to me. So ACEofsnett's initial over-the-internet-with-no-DTCs diagnostic was spot on. That's exactly what he said, but I wasn't willing to start parts swapping till I had more info on hand. Went to Redneck Dave's farm, his forester is more shagged out than mine in some ways and better in others. I didn't realize how little he cared about it. So we swapped hoods, I bought one fender off him for 20 bucks, swapped some interior trim that was broken on mine, then he took us out in the woods for a quick bomb-around run in it because he fixed the oil pan with a gratuitous quantity of jbweld and then put the old oil from his DD forester in it  I need to give him a chance with my XJ before stripping it down. Then we went back to Slow is Fast's parents place and got to work on the CJ. XJ donor harness is completely stripped down and labeled for the splice job, CJ is in the process of being stripped and labeled. Going to need to rewire a significant amount of the dash. It shouldn't be too bad though, hoping for first fire tomorrow then wrapping the harness up. Sandbagger dropped by in his MJ to hang out. It is in surprisingly good shape rust wise, whoever did the rockers knew what they were doing. Needs a serious wiring intervention though, the PO was a hack of the worst sort. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2014 07:39
|
|
|
kastein posted:Yeah, since they are in the same waste spark coil and nothing else is shared (injector fuel rails, cams, etc), makes perfect sense to me. Coils were the first thing that came to mind myself. One right on the edge of failing will still work once it gets warmed up a bit... for awhile. If the coil packs are identical, swap them. See if your misfire moves to #3 and #4. (it will)
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2014 10:33
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Coils were the first thing that came to mind myself. One right on the edge of failing will still work once it gets warmed up a bit... for awhile. Only one coilpack on a lot of NA (and some turbo) Subarus - it's wasted spark. Mine started producing pervasive #1 misfire codes in the damp when it was on its way out. I looked at a 98 Impreza that "wouldn't run" that was the #1 sparkplug wire having burned up internally and arcing gloriously across the coilpack terminal when prodded with advanced enough timing. Swapping the #1 wire to #3 made it gently caress up late enough in the sequence that the car could run (roughly) and almost idle (until it tried to advance the ignition again, then it would arc, stumble and retard back to the 'safe' pattern). That's why I suggested changing out the wires - to see if the misfire pattern changes and nails down for sure if it's the wires or pack. The coilpack was probably not too healthy after a few years of that as the #1 terminal was scorched black. You can convert to an MSD coil from a Neon if you want a little more beef from a wasted spark ignition system on an EJ22/EJ25D/EJ251/EJ253. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Nov 16, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2014 17:50
|
|
|
Well goddamn! Very productive weekend. Finished up figuring out how the CJ wiring works yesterday. Got the XJ harness entirely dropped on the CJ, plugged everything in, spent a few hours going full sperg mode routing all the harness branches so they're perfect. Ziptied everything to everything. Got everything spliced to the right lengths. Hydro crimped a pile of new battery cables and block grounds. Test fired it, it wouldn't start. Alright, time to diagnose. We need fuel, air, compression, spark. Fuel pressure checks out. Fuel injector signals check out. Spark checks out... wait, this plug's soaked in gas and yet the spark isn't igniting it, at all. Dump a little on the shop floor and toss a burning shop towel at it. It puts it out  gas so stale a loving 4.0 won't run on it. So we dumped it out of the junk XJ tank we were using as a pump/tank test rig and put some new gas in. Flushed out the fuel rail a little to get at least a couple cylinders firing, starts right up. Ran great once the garbage gas was out of the rail.Took the whole harness off the jeep with like 400 zipties holding it in exactly the right shape, started at one end with the dry vinyl harness wrap and worked all the way to the other end and up all the branches. Gave it a once over with loom tubing and threw it back on. It was 1AM, so we called it a night at that point. There's a biiiiig junkyard shopping list and some work left to do (the entire dash needs rewiring, basically) but at least the 4.0 is in and the EFI works. Oh, and on the Forester misfire/hot start issue: Slow is Fast threw a spare coil pack he had on it while I was harness-wrapping. It now starts faster, runs better, hot restarts easily, and the CEL went off - I'm not sure if the P0420 and P0440 codes will come back, but the coil pack was clearly an issue. Curious what my fuel economy will be on this tank. Somehow I managed to take absolutely no pictures.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2014 16:16
|
|
|
Still collecting boatloads of parts for the Subaru rear suspension rebuild. $140 worth of new OEM bolts: on hand $more OEM bolts: still waiting New OEM rear brake lines: on hand Poly trailing arm bushings: on hand Whiteline rear diff bushings: goddammit, loving ship them already! It's been two weeks! Rear wheel bearings, seals, pads, rotors: on hand Rear caliper slide pin poo poo and ebrakes: God I hope I don't have to gently caress with this Replacement rear subframe attachment nuts, ISO PC 10.9 M12x1.25 EF: on order I am going in with the assumption that every bolt I remove will be slagged and replaced. Not screwing around with the fuel tank and fill neck right now, I'll deal with that later if and when my pal the P0440 DTC returns. Will probably put off actually doing the front wheel bearings until I have all the stuff to do the rear suspension at the same time at this point so that I can get the alignment done the next day and then have my new tires put on.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2014 22:38
|
|
|
Gold paint: not purchased yet
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2014 22:51
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Gold paint: not purchased yet Why doesn't tractor supply make gold paint already?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2014 23:43
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Gold paint: not purchased yet I knew I was forgetting something incredibly important.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2014 23:49
|
|
|
Did a bajillion car things today... went to the junkyard and grabbed a new front subframe for my aunt's rusty '97 Rav4. This one's rusty too, but in an easier to repair spot, and now I can do the rust repair before incapacitating her vehicle. Then made my next stop at a coworker's place to figure out why the hell her '04 WJ occasionally decides it doesn't want to start. Long story short, I'm not 100% sure, but at least I've narrowed it down to something causing the engine to flood on startup. It isn't tripping any DTCs yet, but all the power rails (ASD output, injector power, coil power, fuel pump... etc etc, I checked em all) fuses and relays are functioning as intended, and holding the pedal to the floor while cranking results in it coughing a lot and then starting right up, so I suspect it's trying to start as if the vehicle is hot even if it's cooled down. Need to poke at the CTS sensor a bit and see what's up with that, though it could also be a number of other things. Then I decided to stop complaining and start prepping my new front knuckles for the Subaru. Had to chip a fuckload of rust out of the balljoint pockets, wire wheel them out, then install the balljoints, flush any contaminants out of the wheel bearing area (since it's a non sealed bearing with a seal on either side installed separately - if you get garbage in there while doing the bearing, you can expect to be doing them again soon) with brakleen and press the new bearings in. Since I don't have a dealer's tool selection, I made a bearing press driver by washing one of the old bearing shells off in acetone and giving it ~10 thou of clearance grinding. Slides in and out without jamming at all now, exactly what I wanted. gently caress Rav4s for having an incredibly badly designed captive nut in the frame rail that the subframe bolts to. Really hoping it doesn't spin in my aunt's car because I can't very well use this method to get at it.  he took ONE HIT of rusty subaru and died instantly  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMSipudqIj8 Subaru. Not even once. I double dare you to seize in place now, balljoint. Come on, try me. I'll butcher your rear end with an angle grinder so don't even think about it.  New balljoints in, bearing pockets cleaned.  Clean enough for me!  Bearing driver tool.  Bearing installation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTnO_vaaSoA Seals and hubs next, I am concerned I may gently caress up the new seals...
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 06:31
|
|
|
You have no luck with seals do you Great idea using the drill press with the wire brush, now I want to get a drill press.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 06:41
|
|
|
kastein posted:
"Holy poo poo, it works perfectly." I love those moments. I usually laugh like a maniac when they happen.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 06:45
|
|
|
I was too worried about slipping and wrapping my entire arm up in the drill press to be laughing and doing anything but moving very carefully leica posted:You have no luck with seals do you No, I loving don't. The outer wheel seals went in way way way too easily. I didn't damage the seat they fit into removing the old ones, I know, because I never touched the old seals, they came out with the old outer bearing cones. They're super thin little cast steel lips and they sketched me out a bit just looking at them, to be quite honest. Long story short one of the seals is spinning with the hub rather than staying with the knuckle. gently caress. Probably going to just very mildly stake the lip it presses into (since it's easily accessible even with the hub pressed in) and forget about it, since disassembling it again will ruin the bearing anyways. I'll know what's up if my left front wheel bearing kicks it way before the right one does.  Not sure whether to blame Subaru or National for this cockup. Probably the latter, they spec these bearings for the loving car, they should fit.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 07:10
|
|
|
It seems like you want to get off the Subaru train but you've got too much invested now to jump.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 07:17
|
|
|
"invested" is a dangerous word and I refuse to use it when referring to a car. I'm fairly certain I still have less into this pile than I did into the red turd XJ, and the absolute worst fuel economy I've gotten yet consisted of driving it like a racecar without resetting the ECU after replacing the failed ignition coil pack - 19.7mpg on winter gas. Other than that, it gets 22mpg or more every tank, no matter how I drive it, which means the worst it gets is the best my XJ ever got, driving like a granny on summer gas. It's quite literally saving me $300 or so a month in gas alone, so tossing parts at it and catching up on a lot of maintenance debt doesn't bother me TOO much, except when stupid poo poo like this happens. And I'm basically settled on blaming National for this, seeing as the original seals I took out of these knuckles were doing just fine (just had to rip em out to get at the bearings) and these ones are allegedly the right ones from National, and don't fit. poo poo like that happens all the time, hell, ask me about the time I visited four different parts stores looking for a rear output seal for my XJ's transfer case, got the wrong one each time, and ended up going home and cross-referencing the OEM part number myself to get the right one. The guy at NAPA insisted on looking it up and told me it would never fit and gave me a fuckload of crap about it, so I got the tailhousing and seal (by this point I had them in the passenger seat so I could just test fit the seal before driving home) and told him to show me (you want an SKF 18108 seal for the rear output of the NP231 on a 96+ XJ... not whatever bullshit they want to give you. What a mess, every parts app database said it depended on whether it was an NP231 or an NP242, rather than 95- vs 96+ like it actually is.) e: I WIN gently caress YOU NATIONAL (I ghetto-staked the edge of the lip the seal presses into using a screwdriver and a small ball peen hammer, and now it doesn't spin.) kastein fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Nov 23, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 07:24
|
|
|
kastein posted:cross-referencing the OEM part number myself to get the right one. The guy at NAPA insisted on looking it up and told me it would never fit and gave me a fuckload of crap about it, I have started telling part-store monkeys the year/model/make/engine type/displacement of more commonly-used applications - I'm tired of trying to explain that yes, I do want that part for a jeep even though it doesn't show up on your little 88 XJ screen. The guys at my local OReillys know me though, and just get me whatever I ask for I'm trying to do the 96/97 Neon/Bosch 280 155 703 injector swap... found 4 injectors on a Sebring at the JY and struck out on more. Went up the street to a non-pull-yourself wrecker and inquired. The yard boss took one look at me and tried to charge me Güero tax of $35/ea for two injectors. I smiled and turned to leave, at which point the price became "what do you want to pay??". Then they didn't have the 703s and tried to sell me 740s which are very close but have different flow rates. Oh well, at least I got 4. Yesterday I installed a new IAC valve and added a new 6ga ground from the firewall to a fuel rail bolt... been trying to fix my rough idle. Lots of RENIX guides suggest adding new grounds to fix random issues, so I did that along with the IAC. One or the other made a big difference; it idles much smoother now so I'm stoked. Can't wait to pop the ev3-style injectors in. kastein posted:(you want an SKF 18108 seal for the rear output of the NP231 on a 96+ XJ... not whatever bullshit they want to give you. What a mess, every parts app database said it depended on whether it was an NP231 or an NP242, rather than 95- vs 96+ like it actually is.) Noted for future struggles. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Nov 23, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 08:20
|
|
|
If you stay with a 95 and earlier transfer case, or install an SYE, forget all about that part number. It only fits 96 and later with the stock tailcone. Hell if they ever try and sell you that seal for your jeep laugh and come back with a part number you already looked up. Make sure it is right, because even rockauto just sorta shotguns it and says "pick one of these 20 manufacturer/part number options, here are reasons you would use each, only half of them are actually relevant and some of them may not fit your year at all!" Basically, gently caress most of the application databases for stuff that is somewhat complicated, they are only as good as the companies saying what their seal/other part fits and you would be shocked to find out how wrong a lot of them are. kastein fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Nov 23, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 10:18
|
|
|
I dunno your car history, but in my experience the constant parts swapping is an American mfg phenomenon. I've had BMW's and volvos too and it's kinda ridiculous on some assemblies how many different chassis, and years, one part works for. I also had an employee at auto zone (it was Sunday, only option) insist my '87 Comanche did not have a radiator cap. Even though I was holding it in my hand, and started the conversation by saying I had swapped the cooling system, please show me your display board of caps.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 16:47
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:I dunno your car history, but in my experience the constant parts swapping is an American mfg phenomenon. I've had BMW's and volvos too and it's kinda ridiculous on some assemblies how many different chassis, and years, one part works for. Yeah my Miata needs an IAC valve and rockauto wants $400 for one, or I can go to the JY and find a BP Kia and get one out of that or a protege/mx3/etc for 10 bucks! Kinda strange that a part that's used on so many different models and even makes is so drat expensive new I don't get it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 17:22
|
|
|
Ouch. My new IAC was $33 
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 18:07
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:
If your 87 had a 4.0 with an original stock cooling system then he would be correct.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2014 23:41
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:Ouch. My new IAC was $33 One of the few if only questionably priced Miata parts. Overall Miatas a pretty cheap to fix.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2014 00:46
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:I dunno your car history, but in my experience the constant parts swapping is an American mfg phenomenon. I've had BMW's and volvos too and it's kinda ridiculous on some assemblies how many different chassis, and years, one part works for. If you start swapping things in there that aren't stock you have to expect to ask for parts from the donor vehicle year make and model. I have had parts counter people try to tell me my 85 Cherokee wasn't a V6 though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2014 15:04
|
|
|
I'd say it's about equal. Hell the same fuel pump fits a 1996 XJ and a mid 90s Honda Civic. Nope, not kidding. I've never had to replace an IAC motor (they don't fail on 91+ jeeps, except very rarely or if abused by a well meaning person trying to clean the pintle) so I don't know what they cost. Also, the exhaust on the Subaru has decided to go walkabout. Not unexpected (in fact I planned on doing it long ago but it didn't fall off so I forgot about it) but rather annoying. So I went down to INTERNETRACECAR's place and borrowed his old exhaust until my new one shows up Friday/Saturday... I may not have installed it correctly. Still quite loud. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2014 17:27
|
|
|
Psycho Donut Killer posted:If you start swapping things in there that aren't stock you have to expect to ask for parts from the donor vehicle year make and model. Anyhow, they should have a display board of radiator caps like a good redneck store.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2014 00:31
|
|
|
Psycho Donut Killer posted:I have had parts counter people try to tell me my 85 Cherokee wasn't a V6 though. We're all desperately trying to forget that V6. angryrobots posted:Except that the radiator with a cap is sold brand new as a replacement for the stock system from any parts supplier (including auto zone, I just checked.), and as I said, I started the conversation by saying so. I just decided not to confuse the parts monkeys with the truth and asked for parts for a 94 XJ rather than going into "so I'm converting an early renix 4.0 cooling system to..."
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2014 14:54
|
|
|
I just unscrewed three O2 sensors with 200k miles on them without breaking the sensors, smashing my knuckles, stripping the threads from the bung OR the sensor, or otherwise ruining anything. I am in shock. Put the new muffler and midpipe on the Subaru already, it's way quieter but the flange on the outlet of the cat is so rotted that the ears are bending instead of the spring bolts doing anything, so I'm swapping my sensors into the one INTERNETRACECAR gave me and then bolting that cat in as well. Next up: steering knuckles. This ought to be fun, I wonder if I get to drive it home tonight or if it's going to a shop on a flatbed? 
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2014 02:45
|
|
|
Rusty poo poo: the exhaust donut spring bolts that were on the car until tonight. Only one is a spring bolt, and it's a Dorman piece of poo poo (judging by the brand new Dorman unit to the left of it) while the other one is just a random rear end bolt that someone cranked down so tight that the barely-there catcon output flange bent over. Yeah that's right.  (what you can't see is that the black oxide Dorman spring bolts are a completely different length from the e-coated silver OEM spring bolts, the OEM spring bolts include a flange nut while the Dorman ones have a lovely regular nut and no washer, and the Dorman ones also don't have a secondary shoulder to properly center the bolt head in the spring. Never buying poo poo tier spring bolts again, glad I got OEM ones while I was waiting for the lovely ones to show up because the exhaust fell the rest of the way off and forced my hand.) Front muffler hangar. I have absolutely no clue how this was holding on, that's 5/8" steel rod except in the one spot where it's 1/8" steel rod. Looks like the welds were fairly rust resistant, as was the alloy the exhaust tubing was made from, but the hangar stock was lovely steel and the combination of heat and road debris exposure rotted it almost all the way away. Really weird looking even though it makes sense.  I fumbled the muffler while removing it and it tapped the underside of the bumper beam. This fell out. Guess I'm hosed if I get rearended  Realized the cat outlet flange was almost completely hosed and tore the cat out to swap it for the one INTERNETRACECAR gave me. This was what was left of one of the header to cat bolts and the motherfucker still insisted on unthreading all the way. No idea how it didn't completely round off... of course I forgot my angle grinder today!  The other one made my life easy. I love it when through-bolts on exhaust fittings snap off easily, means I have to dick around with them less.  New-to-me cat with both my O2 sensors transplanted. As I said before I have no idea how they both unthreaded with only hand tools.  Whole exhaust is on, sounds great. Also swapped the right front knuckle with its new balljoint and wheel bearing. The horrible noises from the front end are somewhat reduced but not gone, so I'm going to do the other tomorrow if I get time, since it's now 2AM. If the noises continue after that I guess it's time to speed up the plans for the rear suspension rebuild and add wheel bearings to the list, though it really sounds like it's coming from the front... Managed to completely forget to take pictures of anything even remotely interesting while doing the knuckle swap, oh well. Imagine more rusty poo poo and a 4 foot prybar to pop the balljoint taper out of the control arm and you're on the right track.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2014 08:07
|
|
|
That is a common failure on the rear axle back exhaust hanger. The hanger usually breaks off completely OR it breaks off and leaves a hole in the exhaust. The one I fixed for a friend I just got some poop metal from the bolt bucket and just birdshit welded it all on. Good for another 5 years! (she hasn't said anything about it leaking again yet)
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2014 15:22
|
|
|
I keep forgetting to send you this in IRC so I'm just gonna put it here.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2014 04:03
|
|
|
kastein posted:Yeah, quality connectors are very much a pay to play game unfortunately. For instance I was looking at 7 pin minimultilocks for everything on the vehicle at work only to find that they were fairly cheap... but the only certified crimp tool for them was $2300. I can justify that for production, but for a test prototype? Hellllll no. So I ended up speccing d369 for everything, which weighs somewhat more but costs $bazilliondy less and is actually nicer for assembly and maintenance. I've read through this a handful of times, and I just want to confirm something. The battery-to-car connection looks like this in your mind, correct? 
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2014 18:26
|
|
|
Exactly. If you need to put two ring lugs on a single battery terminal adapter (i.e. starter cable ring lug and alternator+fusebox feed ring lug) just put the first one on upside down (crimp ferrule down) and the next one on right side up so the crimps are back to back.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2014 18:35
|
|
|
Awesome. Thank you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2014 18:47
|
|
|
I'm almost ready to go hog wild and buy up the parts for my MJ swaps. I'm going to need: - Bits for the transmission? You'd said I would need some stuff to make it work. - Rear driveshaft de-lenghtening. - U bolts for the front and rear axles. - New shocks are probably in order. - I should preemptively replace any lovely looking bushings. especially in the front end. - Chassis saver to clean up the axles and coat the rocker panels. Am I forgetting anything? I've got my hands on a box of heat shrink splices and dry vinyl tape for when I eventually start into the harness too. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2014 19:06
|
|
|
Stuff you need for the transmission: - might need a new pilot bearing. I don't recall offhand what OD you will need, since you have an 88 4.0L, you may end up having to pull the thing apart, measure the crank bore after pulling the old pilot bearing, and then order one. - I don't know what flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc you use to put an AX15 behind a motor that came with a BA-10/5. I'm guessing stock flywheel and PP plus a new AX15 size clutch disc, but it may just go together stock. Will have to look into this. - get a new throwout bearing for the donor transmission year. So, for a 94. Should be the same 94-01, but why complicate things by using a random year? - new trans mount bushing, because it's the right time to do it. Rockauto new one for a 94 should be fine, stay away from Anchor and the other poo poo tier brands. DEA is probably alright. - new shifter seat is the one I specifically mentioned, you NEED this, that donor trans has a real shagged out one in it. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/oil-seal-fits-inside-the-shift-retainer-4864226x.html - new shift turret boot, you need this too. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/gear-shifter-boot-transmission-mounted-83500520.html - new floor boot - iirc the one from the donor is hosed. You can use the TJ one from iForge's thread, but when I transcribed that info from his thread to one on NAXJA to help someone, they ended up teaching me something. The XJ/MJ boot is actually still available despite what I said previously. It's part number 52104217, allegedly for a 97-99 XJ and available at the dealer for 20 bucks or less. The part number for a 94-96 (your donor year) is 53005384, which is listed as NLA, so I'd lean towards the one iForge found because he already tried it and it works on his '90 with some '94 parts. - you definitely need all new bushings for the transfer case shift linkage, they were in poo poo condition when we started and my prybar hamfuckery to get all that disconnected from the donor certainly didn't do them any favors. Fortunately they're cheap. Get five 0357 5333 bushings: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/transfer-case-shifter-grommet-3575333.html You do need new U bolts for the rear axle, as well as SUA leaf perches, U-bolt plates, and shock mounts. You don't need them for the front axle, because it's not leaf sprung. Buy two 5-153X ujoints and two 2-70-18X ujoint strap kits on northerndrivetrain, you'll either need them now or want them later. That is all I can think of ATM but I am sure there is more. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Dec 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 16:12
|
|
|
Take some pictures when you start loving with the NV4500, most questions I had were answered spinning it with the top off in the yard, but I am really curious to see why the shifter wasn't moving.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 16:20
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm debating tossing the camera up so you can all watch me mutter and curse and not know how to get the drat thing apart because it isn't an AX15. Really want to know why the shift rails are locked up myself, too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 16:31
|
|
|
kastein posted:Stuff you need for the transmission: Also because Slow and I may have tried to saw at the old one with a pocket knife. I'll pick up one like you mentioned. kastein posted:
I constantly forget this. I'll probably also need new springs for the rear since my springs are leaf rears are pretty looking pretty spanked.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 17:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 22:42 |
|
|
Well you are kinda hosed then. There's only one sub-400 dollar full-leaf-pack replacement available on the market as far as I know, it's the Rusty's 4.5" leafs: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-leaf-springs-mj-4-rear-pair.html No stock height replacements exist as far as I know. If you find some, let me know, I need to buy a set for the street MJ. Always order those Rustys leafs with poly bushings because the rubber ones are absolute junk. e: whoa! Holy gently caress! I googled right after posting this and some company I've never heard of is making them. Not sure if these are stock replacement or lift springs. http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm I may order a set of those (the difference between the leafs they sell is either 2wd vs 4wd or regular vs metric ton, not sure which, likely the latter) and see how they go. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Dec 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 18:09
|
|