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The "intake valve" looked pretty generic? Do what now? "Tricked out WRX" and "knows his stuff" don't sound great together. He's right about the fuel pressure gauge, but I have no idea what he's talking about in regards to a generic "intake valve" that you'd be able to spot with a quick glance, aside from maybe the throttle body? Here's a great lesson: be wary of anyone standing in / working at autozone that "knows his stuff". Oh also yeah, you could always test across the poles with a voltmeter, but in all likelihood it was an old battery with about half the cold-cranking amps it came with new. Cold weather and old batteries don't mix well, despite what my mother says while putting them in the freezer 
Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Nov 25, 2014 |
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Nov 25, 2014 21:12
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Adiabatic posted:The "intake valve" looked pretty generic? Do what now? He said it looked like a cheap aftermarket part, I dunno. Maybe I'll get someone's expert opinion when they come down to visit me some weekend.
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Nov 25, 2014 21:39
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Sperglord Firecock posted:He said it looked like a cheap aftermarket part, I dunno. Probably the intake box/filter/piping itself.. the valves are inside the engine so they'd be hard to see by just popping the hood.
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Nov 25, 2014 23:25
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He's talking about the blow off valve. It looks like a cheap eBay knock off.
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Nov 25, 2014 23:36
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mafoose posted:He's talking about the blow off valve. It looks like a cheap eBay knock off. THAT'S the one. Blow off valve. My bad. I probably should replace that with something that's NOT a cheap ebay knockoff. Any suggestions? Also: Parking brake is out. I'd like to rectify that situation. Dunno if Nissan even makes/has the part necessary anymore. fishception fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Nov 25, 2014 |
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Nov 25, 2014 23:41
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Parking brake cable is $47.89 at rock auto, I bet your local autozone or whatever could have one in a few days as well. Check to see if it just needs adjustment first though, if it kinda sorta works but feels really loose you can tighten it up a bit. Your alternator is almost certainly fine. You'll know how to work on cars very soon. It sounds like you have some tools, but you haven't mentioned if you have a few or a lot or access to someone's. Your best investment right now would be a good kit for yourself, harbor freight sales happen all the time. Here's the basic kit I take when I go help someone fix their poo poo. Tools: full set of metric end wrenches and ratchet set from about 8mm to 19mm. A cresent wrench, vice-grips, a wirestripper, linesman's pliers, needle nose pliers, a toothbrush, a multi tip screwdriver, regular phillip and flathead screwdrivers, muitimeter, 2 cheap torque wrenches(large and small), a small ball-peen hammer, a gently caress-off big maul, a breaker bar(get craftsman, you're gonna break a few of them). Consumables: wire ties, 2 part epoxy, marine type heat shrink tubing, crimp connectors, a can of solvent, electrical tape, sandpaper in a few different grits, a can of oil, anti-seize compound, aerokroil/PBblaster, latex gloves, safety goggles, ear protection, dustmask, rags, electrical connection cleaner, a small spool of stainless steel safety wire I'm probably forgetting stuff but that's a good rundown that will keep you from having to hit the store twice in the middle of every job. $200 at harbor/sears/the pawn shop. should have you most of the way there. edit: Also go and take a bunch more pictures, pictures of everything you can get to. It will let other people see problems you might not, like I just noticed the hoodpins but I can't tell if they are real or fake because they are out of the frame on the engine bay shot. If they are fake pull them off, cause that doesn't look '80s at all. If they are real make sure the holes have been properly rustproofed because that is a perfect place for trouble to start. vvv: That works and it's good to talk to the neighboors. Eventually you'll want a set of your own though and Christmas is coming... Bibendum fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 26, 2014 00:43
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Bibendum posted:Parking brake cable is $47.89 at rock auto, I bet your local autozone or whatever could have one in a few days as well. Check to see if it just needs adjustment first though, if it kinda sorta works but feels really loose you can tighten it up a bit. Your alternator is almost certainly fine. The main tools I have are my neighbor's, who looks down on me for driving an import rather than GOOD AMERICAN STEEL (his main complaint is the wiring on cars is hilarious). He's a ridiculously good fix-it guy on cars, so I just usually borrow tools from him and get advice thereof. fishception fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 26, 2014 00:52
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The knock offs work fine until the diaphragm rips, and then it's usually cheaper to just buy another bov. I'm surprised it runs well, they usually bog on shifts with a vented bov. It's a Freddy knockoff, so the flange interchanges with quite a few different manufactures. On the subject of tools, download the FSM, and buy the mechanics tools set at harbor freight. It goes on sale for like $150 and has everything you need but the wrenches. Buy the $20 (when on sale) wrench set that goes from like 8mm-30?mm. Do NOT get the polished ones. I think they are tumble polished and end up loose, which then ends up stripping bolts/nuts. Nissan likes using 21mm and bigger on a lot of parts.
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Nov 26, 2014 01:57
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Will that cost more than a beater? Dont know how kansas differs as far as regular price and cost for insurance, But a "second vehicle" for me thats a "luxury" vehicle thats not a main driver (Under 7500 miles) is like 12 bucks or something a month. When I was in my early 20s I had 3 cars insured, I think I may have paid 100 bucks a month? I had outstanding credit but was young and had like 3 or 4 tickets. Basically, writing insurance here second vehicles rarely cost more than 20-30 a month tops* *For normal people who dont have DUIs/totally awful credit/whatever BrokenKnucklez posted:Look into a crown vic. They are dirt cheap to insure, body on frame, RWD, and most importantly, they are so god drat common, the car and the parts are dirt cheap. Quite a few goons own them, and other than mediocre to poor gas mileage, they are nothing short of solid. I just bought a 2000 Grand Marquis as a daily driver for 2300 bucks. 228k miles, grandma owned, everything works. Hell I even have the door codes. How insane is that? Like the OG sticker was still in the trunk. Gas mileage thus far. 13-18 in town (13 when im laying into it a lot like a kid) and 21-28 on the highway (Again, Depending how retarded I drive). These are just samples from shortish trips and a few full tanks. Highly recommend a Panther. Its seriously changed what I look for in "daily driver" cars for sure. And poo poo are things cheap.  Keep in mind, again this is in kansas. And I bought this from a loving "dealer" no less. So thats 2300 with taxes + 60 day tags. PLUS they warrantied the intake manifold. What I'm saying is if you look hard and long enough. You can score a panther thats super legit for stupid cheap. And if you want a literal beater, 1500 or less, easy. I'm pretty jealous of the Z man. I got screwed out of a 75k miled turbo that was fully loaded and worked perfect. Ive always wanted one ever since my aunt bought one new when we lived in vegas. loving loved that car. Good call on parking it in the winter. The ones I see around here that drive around in the snow are all rusted to poo poo. 
EbolaIvory fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 26, 2014 02:02
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EbolaIvory posted:Dont know how kansas differs as far as regular price and cost for insurance, But a "second vehicle" for me thats a "luxury" vehicle thats not a main driver (Under 7500 miles) is like 12 bucks or something a month. When I was in my early 20s I had 3 cars insured, I think I may have paid 100 bucks a month? I had outstanding credit but was young and had like 3 or 4 tickets. Lemme put it this way. I've got about 1k in cash. Literally 1k in cash. That is all I have. I really can't afford to spend much more on anything period. Edit: Hence why I'm trying to avoid driving as much as possible. fishception fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 26, 2014 02:46
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What's the fun in owning a car you are afraid or can't afford to drive?
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Nov 26, 2014 02:56
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Extra posted:What's the fun in owning a car you are afraid or can't afford to drive? I'm not really too worried about the afford part, because it's only a matter of time until I get a job. It's just that right now I can't even really get a beater.
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Nov 26, 2014 03:06
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pfft 1k in cash will get you a beater and insurance and tools to work on it. just hope it doesn't brake before your first paycheck.
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Nov 26, 2014 03:59
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Welp. You know how you guys were talking about electrical gremlins? Just had one. After installing the new battery, everything appeared to be working as intended. Drove it for a bit, no big deal, parked it in a mall parking lot. Okay. Went out, got a sandwich. Got in the car, turned the key, nothing. Tried getting a jump, nothing. Well, poo poo. Had to get a tow, and so it's back in my driveway sitting pretty-like. I THINK it's something to do with the battery connectors, and not the alternator, because giving it a jump would probably allow it to start. But now I have a new adventure tomorrow of trying to see what the trouble is. I'll take pictures and get opinions tomorrow when I have light.
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Nov 26, 2014 05:30
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I THINK it's something to do with the battery connectors I was about to say this. Are your battery terminals those clamp-on ones, or is it molded onto the wire? I have one of each, and the clamp-on one has gone high-resistance on me a few times while looking fine on the outside. Take all that poo poo apart and clean it, see where that gets you. Do you have a multimeter? E: Actually I think I remember you saying you were an electrics guy in the service? So I'd expect you do, hah.
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Nov 26, 2014 05:32
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Clamp ones, attaches with bolts. Neighbor has a multimeter, so I can talk to him on that. I just suspect it to be some manner of quick fix, just need new connectors and bing bang boom, fix. Worst case scenario, it'll get some more than necessary electrical work done to it, and I'll definitely not be able to get a beater.
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Nov 26, 2014 05:34
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Yeah, take those apart and wire brush everything, and get rid of any battery acid with baking soda in water. If the wire is all gross looking and won't clean up you can cut it back a bit to get to some clean wire. Although the proper fix is to either do what Kastein does and crimp your own cables, or just replace them with parts store molded ones. I haven't done that, though; I just clean them when they get lovely and they work for another year or whatever. E: Oh, and since I mentioned the multimeter: Once you get it running, check what the voltage at the battery is with the motor on. Anything above 13.8 indicates a functioning alternator; mine runs around 14.1 or so I think.
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Nov 26, 2014 05:36
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Raluek posted:Although the proper fix is to either do what Kastein does and crimp your own cables, or just replace them with parts store molded ones. I actually have the capability of doing this, so I could probably do it. Since I really am not wanting to drive it much this winter, there's not much reason for me to not take my time, be careful, and do it right.
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Nov 26, 2014 05:37
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Update: Right, so, let's just pop the hood, and take a look at what's going on with a bit more light on the situation! Pop the hood, there's the battery and....  ..... oh. oh oh god what do i do
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Nov 26, 2014 19:12
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That doesn't seem to be that bad this starts up every morning even when it's 7f outside:
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Nov 26, 2014 19:19
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rscott posted:That doesn't seem to be that bad this starts up every morning even when it's 7f outside: It's more the wiring that is hooked up to that. That's the ground line from the battery (AFAIK). . There are WIDE OPEN spots where the wires are literally able to touch whatever metal/wire they drat well please. I hope to DEAR god that it didn't burn out those wires.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:20
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I think kastein posted recently about how to put new battery terminals on the "right" way. Lucky you, I haven't had to do this in a few years of car enthusiasm and you're getting to do it right out of the gate.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I think kastein posted recently about how to put new battery terminals on the "right" way. Lucky you, I haven't had to do this in a few years of car enthusiasm and you're getting to do it right out of the gate. Lucky me! If someone could link that post, I'm going to need all the help I can drat get. I'll also need to figure out where to buy battery terminals. I assume I can just get them at AutoZone (I hope).
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Nov 26, 2014 19:26
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Get the brass marine battery terminals, they're on the rack with the lead ones but don't suck. They come in clear blister packs of two, don't buy the ones that come individually. They look like this: Autozone typically stocks them, most other places don't, or have lovely ones. For instance some places will sell you two single-packs which are both the same size and therefore won't fit one of the battery posts, since one post is larger than the other. Also get either the right length precrimped cable(s) or just make your own. #4 Flex-a-Prene welding cable from airgas, 3/8 and 5/16 #4 extra heavy duty crimp lugs (Waytek Wire 36566 and 36565, respectively) and a $54 Harbor Freight 8 ton hydraulic crimper are what I use. 3/8 lugs will fit 3/8 and 10mm studs (may need slight clearancing with a file or drill bit), 5/16 will fit 5/16 and 8mm. Ignore the legends on the crimper dies and use the largest set they give you for #4. It's a slightly expensive investment in tooling but at this point I've done like 7-8 vehicles with mine and they're still going strong.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:36
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From the looks of it, the PO did. That negative terminal connector is straight off a NAPA shelf.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:38
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Yeah, that's all the negative wiring, it's less panic and more "deal with this when you can." As long as it's a negative ground vehicle that is. The thing behind the battery in the picture is an 80s/70s style Nissan ground lug. They loved doing that, the way it works is they strip a 1" long section of the middle of the cable and crimp that goofy thing on, which is supposed to go on a ground screw or stud on the vehicle chassis. The awful bolt-on battery terminal on the negative is a rolling "gently caress my car won't start" causer. I've seen more of those cause issues than I've seen them fix. I refuse to use them for that reason. I'd guess autozone not NAPA because they also sell those lovely bolt on lead color code lugs, and the battery is a duralast, but it appears the battery and the lug are quite different ages so who knows really.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:41
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kastein posted:Yeah, that's all the negative wiring, it's less panic and more "deal with this when you can." As long as it's a negative ground vehicle that is. The new battery is one I got and installed yesterday, I got that, it's brand new, no big deal. In the meantime, I am totally without vehicle, is there any way I can kinda sorta jury rig it to work so I can roll over to a shop, get the stuff, and get poo poo done thereof? kastein posted:Get the brass marine battery terminals, they're on the rack with the lead ones but don't suck. They come in clear blister packs of two, don't buy the ones that come individually. They look like this: I can get this stuff, the issue is I don't really have a Harbor Freight nearby that I can get that from, and the lugs/welding cable/etc, well, I dunno where to get that stuff from.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:49
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New Update: So I went outside on my bike (bicycle), ready to make a trek to the auto parts store when I remembered that there is a Nissan dealership a bit down the road. Went in, talked to them, and lo and behold, they have a complete replacement terminal and negative cable part that I can just pop on, bing bang boom. That frayed as gently caress wire worries me anyways, so getting the cable/terminal in one deal is pretty much okay for me. Apparently it was the last of the part available in the US. Part's not coming in until Monday due to holiday, but whatever, no biggie, I can get it fixed then. Just have to deal with no car over the weekend, when I should be spending it with family anyways.
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Nov 26, 2014 21:13
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Good find. A lot of the 80s Nissan stuff is becoming NLA.
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Nov 26, 2014 21:57
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Yeah. The parking brake cable was also a no go, according to them. But that's less of an issue than the car literally not starting. I'll get the part in on Monday. IN OTHER NEWS: Apparently there is a street racing meet-up that happens at 11:30 PM at Lower Wacker Drive when the weather permits and I was given an invite to it. This is a loving terrible idea. But, then again, the thread title....
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Nov 26, 2014 22:08
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sounds like you need to get a SHOOTING STARS decal for your windows
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Nov 26, 2014 22:09
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Still holding out for the "ZIGZEON" vanity plate in December, myself.
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Nov 26, 2014 22:11
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Sperglord Firecock posted:
Oh for crying out loud. Is *that* what I've been hearing every couple of nights during the summer?   If you decide to go to one of those, hit me up. Also, don't go to one of those.
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Nov 26, 2014 22:14
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Lower Wacker Drive is a real street? I always thought the Blues Brothers just made it up for the movie.
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Nov 26, 2014 22:47
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Lower Wacker Drive is a real street? I always thought the Blues Brothers just made it up for the movie. It's a real street. Ohhhh, it's a real street. I heard there's a way to bump start cars. Will that work with my car? Again, I'm looking for a way to kinda sorta jury-rig it to work, since being without car is kind of a pain.
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Nov 26, 2014 22:50
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Lower Wacker Drive is a real street? I always thought the Blues Brothers just made it up for the movie. It's the street where they shot the big truck scene from Batman. My bus takes it every day to work. Get on the Big Snapchat List and I'll snapchat ya some pictures. Sperglord Firecock posted:
Find a hill (lol chicago) or get a burly friend. Turn the ignition switch to On. Pop the transmission into second. Depress the clutch pedal. Get up to about 10 mph. Pop the clutch. When the engine starts, press it down again to keep the car from stalling. The same procedure also works in reverse (if you're going down the hill backwards) or first gear (if second doesn't work for whatever reason).
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Nov 26, 2014 23:32
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Find a shiny metal part on your engine. Clamp jumper cable to that. Clamp other end of jumper cable to negative terminal of car. Ziptie off the other side of cable. Get replacement. Drive home. Replace.
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Nov 26, 2014 23:35
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Sperglord Firecock posted:
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Nov 26, 2014 23:43
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Safety Dance posted:Oh for crying out loud. Is *that* what I've been hearing every couple of nights during the summer? its more then likely the local ruckus scene. They love blasting down lower wacker on there scoots. It was fun the one time I went. But I don't have my elite 150 anymore and the elite 80 only does 45-50 max.
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Nov 27, 2014 03:12
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I'm actually vaguely worried about going there, because apparently there are people that have modified their cars to be exceedingly silly on an AI level, and then exceedingly silly in a "i want to make my shitbox look as ugly as sin with stickers and body kits" way. I'm also gonna need to get a hood prop at some point. Don't have one. :<
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Nov 27, 2014 16:09
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