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Very nice displays you have there Hedgehog, and nice cases too!
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Nov 21, 2014 05:35
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I like the Sam and Max piece, though Max has had some sort of horrible accident since last we've seen him.
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Nov 21, 2014 14:42
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:That's actually just old King Kong. That's my To-Do case, and in there is a Metaluna Mutant, three "Evil Apples", The Krampus, a Hulk, Biostein, Hellboy, and a Death Dealer. The other case only has single unfinished piece on the bottom shelf, a Mohawk Mogwai. In my vinyl stash I've got a Mars Attacks scene, a Invisible Man scene, the Nautilus, and a huge 1/16 russian tank. Do you know a good website or video to learn how to do vinyl models? I picked up this Pinhead model from ebay without really knowing what to expect. When it showed up, I opened the package and realized I had no idea how to even start putting it together.
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Nov 21, 2014 15:25
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Hey y'all just a q about airbrushed- anyone familiar with the harder & steenbeck ultra? I can get it fairly cheap(ish) but it says it's an entry level brush, and I've already got the iwata revolution which is pretty much a starter type brush (from what I'm reading at least) Should I just save pennies until I want a diff style/finer detail brush? Although I could always call this one an early Xmas pressie...
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Nov 21, 2014 18:43
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Nebakenezzer posted:I like the Sam and Max piece, though Max has had some sort of horrible accident since last we've seen him. Yeah, I dropped Max when I moved into the place and he shattered into about 12 different pieces. This was taken though about a year ago, and now Max has been pinned, puttied, sanded, and repainted. He looks even better now than he did when he was new. SkunkDuster posted:Do you know a good website or video to learn how to do vinyl models? I picked up this Pinhead model from ebay without really knowing what to expect. When it showed up, I opened the package and realized I had no idea how to even start putting it together. The website I always frequent is The Clubhouse. It focuses on vinyl/resin pop-culture pieces, busts and statues, that sort of thing. It's probably the the best site for finding out about new releases, building and painting techniques, sculpting, anything involved with that sort of thing. Tons of super-talented people on the forums, as well a handful of professionals who work for the big effects houses. A great place to buy stuff as well, as most garage kits are produced in limited quantites, so you can pick up a ton of super high-quality stuff you won't ever see anywhere else.
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Nov 21, 2014 21:24
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After the giant headache that was putting this Takom kit together, the end is almost in sight!  I just need to apply washes to the other half of the tank and muddy up the treads and areas around them.
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Nov 23, 2014 03:27
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Is that based on a real tank?
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Nov 23, 2014 04:08
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Nice, is that the motorized kit?SkunkDuster posted:Is that based on a real tank? That's a real tank. It's one of the first ever built, nobody knew how tanks should quite look by that point. In addition, it was built by naval engineers, so it's basically a land ship, to the point of having a walk-in engine room. Tanks you're used to seeing (one gun in a rotating turret, tracks that only go up to about halfway up the hull) didn't appear until the late parts of the war, with the French Renault FT. Even then, there were still some very unconventional looking designs before everyone's tanks started looking effectively the same.
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Nov 23, 2014 05:14
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Thanks! Nope, the only Mark IV motorized kit I know of is Tamiya's. This kit does offer moveable tracks, but you have to glue FIVE pieces together per tread. Now multiply that times 192 and you understand why I said gently caress that noise. I glued the treads on to the frame because I am not insane. I may get the Tamiya kit down the road, though. I never tried a motorized kit before and I find Tamiya to be in that nice spot between detail and challenge/accessibility for me.
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Nov 23, 2014 06:13
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Commissar Canuck posted:After the giant headache that was putting this Takom kit together, the end is almost in sight! That's a very nicely built model.
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Nov 23, 2014 13:25
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So I'm re-building a chunk of my layout because it had a huge section of hidden track that needed some way to access it so I planned on having the terrain lift up, but that's a nightmare hiding the edges and seams. I decided I'd access it from UNDER the layout. That's not the fun part. The fun part is that I keep referring to this style of access as a "reach around" and posting on model railroad sites suggesting people give their trains a reach-around. I'm hoping it catches on and old bearded train guys start talking about reach arounds. Also yes I am 13 years old.
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Nov 24, 2014 00:42
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Ensign Expendable posted:Even then, there were still some very unconventional looking designs before everyone's tanks started looking effectively the same.
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Nov 24, 2014 02:17
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Still plugging along on the Sloop. Last update I had just started the priming of the inner bulkheads. I spent far too long mucking around trying to get the bulkhead paint to look good to me. I ended up stripping it completely off and restarting at one point because I was unhappy with how it was turning out. First priming was on the 9th. Finally not 'happy', but at least acceptable results on the 19th. I was using very thin coats of paint, and I ended up with 9 coats of red over 2 coats of primer, and then 2 coats of clear flat over it. The primer was sanded back with 320 grit for the first layer, and 400 for the second. The first 2 layers of red were sanded with the 400, then I switched to 1000 grit, and finally the final two layers of red and both layers of clear were rubbed down with tissue. I also placed the black strake while I was doing the paint, but I'm an idiot so ended up placing it without remembering to measure and cut the outer scuppers into it, so I had to cut the scuppers in while it was in place, and then repair and repaint the black strake and wale. Turned out okay, but not as even as it should be. The insides of the gun ports are not finished as they'll get messed up when filing back the outer bulkhead planking.    Next up was the planking on the outside of the bulkheads, which goes on top of the black strake. This planking is walnut, with the three planks between the gun ports being .030" thick.   On top of that, over the top of the gun ports is the sheer strake, which is 3/64" thick. I also cut the hole for the bowsprit, but it is left undersized for now. I'll open it up to the exact size needed after I have the bowsprit made, so that it is a good fit.    Next I decided to get 'fancy' with the cap rail, which sits on top of the bulkheads. I took a single edge razor blade, and used a Dremel cutting wheel to cut a notch exactly 1/16" wide and about 1/8" deep that would just barely fit around the edge of the cap rail. I then used just the very tip of my smallest rat tail file to make the bottom of the notch have two round spots with a small raised edge between them. I used this to carve a trim-line all along the outside edge of the cap rails by 'shaving' the wood slowly.  Unfortunately, since I'm dumb, I didn't test fit the cap rails before investing all of that time. When I placed the cap rails I found that the kit cap rails (they are laser cut pieces) don't have the same curve as the top of my bulkheads near the bow, and there was no way to make them work correctly, they were just too far out of alignment to work. So, improvisation and part building time. I scrounged around in a box of wood that I got from a retiring ship builder, and low and behold, there was a small sheet of 1/16" wood. I'm not honestly sure if it's walnut or not, but it's wood, and close enough! So I used the curve of the bulkheads, along with the width/shape from the kit cap rails, and made forward cap rail pieces from this new sheet of wood. The sheet of wood I have wasn't large enough to make the entire rails over, so I just made the forward sections.  To join them with the kit rails, I made my first ever scarf joints, and cut back the original cap rails to match up with the new pieces. I used my little shaped razor blade and cut my line into these new parts, and placed them. This part is where I was really happy that I didn't try to use the kit pieces. These came out great.    I clamped the kit cap rail into place on the right side, and then measured and cut a 1/16 x 1/16 piece and cut the 'line' into it and placed it at the stern, and then I glued the kit piece into place. I haven't completed these steps on the left side yet. My 'trim' line isn't aligned perfectly where the scarf joint is, but I think I can make it look somewhat better with a bit of work using the sharp edge of a riffler file.   
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Nov 24, 2014 05:30
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Arquinsiel posted:By "unconventional" you're applying post-WWII thinking to your description. The words you are looking for are more along the lines of "loving bizarre". Hey, the T-35 tank was a practical solution to the bumper crop of turrets in the Soviet Union at the time 
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Nov 24, 2014 05:36
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The T-35 was a practical way of preventing anyone from trying to build a T-39.
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Nov 24, 2014 06:40
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Ensign Expendable posted:The T-35 was a practical way of preventing anyone from trying to build a T-39. T-39 would have been the best
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Nov 24, 2014 07:22
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Arquinsiel posted:By "unconventional" you're applying post-WWII thinking to your description. The words you are looking for are more along the lines of "loving bizarre". You forgot to add "Awesome" along with "loving Bizarre". Although most of the designs weren't really that practical in combat; I loving love tanks from the Interbellum; I have collected many a picture for inspiration. Russian military history websites are a good source of these. No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Nov 24, 2014 |
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Nov 24, 2014 08:54
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Commissar Canuck posted:Hey, the T-35 tank was a practical solution to the bumper crop of turrets in the Soviet Union at the time 500% of the quota! Praise the shock workers! 
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Nov 24, 2014 10:55
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SkunkDuster posted:Is that based on a real tank? Someone hasn't seen Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade! (yes I know it's a different tank but you get the idea)
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Nov 24, 2014 18:59
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Actually based on it though, so close enough!
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Nov 24, 2014 21:34
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SkunkDuster posted:Is that based on a real tank? I think the question here was supposed to be, was there a Mark IV named Lodestar rolling around/over the trenches back in the day?
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Nov 25, 2014 06:37
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I've been inside the Mk IV at Bovington, it's not as spacious on the inside as you'd expect from the outside. If you like making tank models, The Tank Museum @ Bovington would be the best place on the planet to go for inspiration and also fun. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Nov 25, 2014 |
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Nov 25, 2014 14:59
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I'm going to ask santa for some of those Metal Earth / ICONX models. Any recommendations for a beginner?
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Nov 25, 2014 20:49
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canyoneer posted:I'm going to ask santa for some of those Metal Earth / ICONX models. I’ve built quite a lot of them. There are two in particular I would avoid. The Parthenon looks pretty good when finished (aside from having a different number of columns than the real thing), but it is by far the most tedious to assemble. It has forty‐eight columns that must be bent into tight cylinders by hand. It takes forever, it hurts one’s fingers, and there are no extras in case a column lost (some sets do have duplicates for small and numerous parts). The Sydney Opera House just doesn’t fit together so far as I can tell, and others on the Web agree. Notre Dame de Paris is my personal favourite as a finished model, but perhaps on the tougher side of the spectrum to assemble. The Eiffel Tower (both as IconX and original) and Wright Flyer are among the easiest I’ve built. Choose whatever looks good to you, though, because most models have at least one tricky part. Their website has 360° views of most finished models. Be aware that whoever put them together was sloppy. Most look better in person. My strongest recommendation is to have tweezers, long‐nosed pliers, flat‐nosed pliers, and fine wire cutters on hand (to remove pieces from the middle of the sheet without bending anything). Platystemon fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 25, 2014 21:57
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I recently got an idea, and I want to check if it is dumb or not. I've been building a bunch of 1/48 tanks recently for wargames, and I've seen some random motorized kit now and then while browsing, but the 1/48 Tamiya kits I've seen have looked a bit sketchy. Now, are there any good motorized kits out there, maybe at a larger scale? I've even thought about an R/C kit if there's any good ones, even though I've never done R/C stuff before. It would be a fun thing if I could finish a kit before spring/summer, and go do some awesome tanking action in the park with my nephew. I've seen some 1/16 scale R/C tanks, but the cost is way too high for me to be able to excuse it as a fun little project. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 26, 2014 09:39
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lilljonas posted:I've seen some 1/16 scale R/C tanks, but the cost is way too high for me to be able to excuse it as a fun little project. Don't look at the Tamiya 1/16th RC, look for a brand called Heng Long. They are much cheaper and there are many of them out there, with companies making metal tracks and upgraded electronics, etc., for them. The tanks are a lot like scale or wargame modeling (or RC!) with the upgrades. You can get complete running sets for £100 with BB shooting main gun, smoke and sounds.
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Nov 26, 2014 13:38
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canyoneer posted:I'm going to ask santa for some of those Metal Earth / ICONX models. Of the half-dozen I've made, the easiest was Golden Gate bridge, followed by the Arc de Triomphe. Basically, models that have no curved surfaces are gonna be easier than models with curved surfaces. Stay away from anything with wheels or columns (like the Parthenon or R2-D2) for a first attempt.
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Nov 26, 2014 13:41
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I'm building a motorised kit now. At 1:35th, there is barely enough room in the hull for two motors, a gearbox, a microcontroller, and a battery. At 1:48th, the most you'll fit is one motor, so it won't be a very fun vehicle.
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Nov 26, 2014 14:19
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Does the Tamiya one actuall come with a microcontroller or is that something you are adding in?
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Nov 27, 2014 00:04
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No, it's something that I'm adding it. The kit I got only came with a single motor, gearbox, and battery pack, but there was room to put in more stuff.
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Nov 27, 2014 00:41
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If we can make 1:160 trains with lights and sound and digital control I'm sure 1:48 tanks are no problem.
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Nov 27, 2014 02:39
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To be fair the power and command systems are external to the tiny trains.Ensign Expendable posted:No, it's something that I'm adding it. The kit I got only came with a single motor, gearbox, and battery pack, but there was room to put in more stuff. Tell us more. No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Nov 27, 2014 |
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Nov 27, 2014 06:34
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No Pun Intended posted:Tell us more. The kit is this thing:  As you can see, it comes with a sad little single motor gearbox that was clearly meant for two. I managed to track one down that was metallic and also had two full sets of gears. It doesn't fit into the hull, so I'm going to have to do some cutting later.  I haven't really had a lot of time to glue/paint the thing (especially since it's made out of some kind of super-tough plastic that even the special cement included in the kit can barely touch), but as you can see there is not that much room in there. I wanted to have the turret rotate and the gun elevate too, but the gun doesn't move and it doesn't look like I will have enough room to put a motor in the turret.
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Nov 27, 2014 22:43
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I did my first Revell model, an Imperial Shuttle from star wars. It came out okay for my first try at something like this. This model makes you choose one of two ways to build the kit, with or without landing gear. With landing gear, the wings won't articulate down. Without, you need some other way to display it. I chose without. Wings up:  Wings articulated out:  Peeking inside the cockpit reveals an officer and stormtrooper:  The whole things just snaps together, though I did use glue in a few places to seat things permanently. I didn't use any wash or paint or anything, but I like how it came out for a beginner model.
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Nov 30, 2014 00:22
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I thought the Lambda shuttle was one of the coolest looking ships from Star Wars and did the same model. I found that in the wings up position, it is too nose heavy and tips forward. If I had to do it over again, I'd put some weight in the rear end-end.
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Nov 30, 2014 00:42
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The Revell X-wing is next for me. Any tips before I begin?
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Nov 30, 2014 01:03
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Van Dis posted:The Revell X-wing is next for me. Any tips before I begin? If you want it to look real good, you can either give it some oil washes or prime and paint all over the prepaint. For reference, these are my Revell pocket kits:  The X-Wing is just a combination of AK's black and brown washes over the prepaint, and the model improves dramatically. The N-1 and the ARC are complete repaints.
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Nov 30, 2014 12:12
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Oh hey, a Tamiya SdKfz 221 (Fu.) in the background! I'm working on one right now. I made the mistake of gluing down the turret mesh before painting the insides 
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Nov 30, 2014 20:57
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Ensign Expendable posted:Oh hey, a Tamiya SdKfz 221 (Fu.) in the background! I'm working on one right now. I made the mistake of gluing down the turret mesh before painting the insides Good eye there. It's been sitting there for one year collecting dust unpainted, which is a shame.
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Nov 30, 2014 21:10
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Sparq posted:If you want it to look real good, you can either give it some oil washes or prime and paint all over the prepaint. I've never painted anything and wouldn't even know how to start. Do you know of a good beginner guide to painting stuff like that?
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Nov 30, 2014 22:05
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