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SynthOrange posted:Could be tiny fungal patches. Nip this poo poo in the butt. Killed one of my scats... total bummer. Also dennisons aren't cheap. Melafix fixes everything.
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Nov 20, 2014 09:02
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| # ? May 11, 2024 20:18 |
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My LFS has that poem embroidered and hanging over their door.
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Nov 20, 2014 10:21
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Plavski posted:My LFS has that poem embroidered and hanging over their door. quote:Nip this poo poo in the butt.
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Nov 20, 2014 10:55
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OK, Melafix it is then, I have enough to treat the main tank so I'll do that after work.
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Nov 20, 2014 13:01
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Yeah, looks like a fungal thing. Back when i was just getting my tank going my black platy developed spots like that, eventually stopped swimming around and developed a case of fin rot.
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Nov 20, 2014 15:07
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Melafix doesn't fix everyhing. If you have any gourami in that tank, don't use it. It prevents their labyrinth organ from functioning and will kill them. You also shouldn't use it with any fish that require well oxygenated water since it can interfere with oxygen exchange at the surface. If you're clear on those two fronts, it's worth a try.
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Nov 20, 2014 15:18
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Sostratos posted:Melafix doesn't fix everyhing. If you have any gourami in that tank, don't use it. It prevents their labyrinth organ from functioning and will kill them. You also shouldn't use it with any fish that require well oxygenated water since it can interfere with oxygen exchange at the surface. If you're clear on those two fronts, it's worth a try. That's what bubblers are for.
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Nov 21, 2014 21:10
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Awww, sad. I really do like roselines. As rapidly as the Denison's declined, I would say columnaris, which is a very aggressive gram-negative bacterial infection -- surface infections would look white and patchy. A lot of pictures on the image search show it as ulcers on much larger fish, although I have never seen that particular presentation in person. It's pretty bad news because anything that works on it also kills your beneficial bacteria. For now, I would increase the frequency of water changes in the origin tank, possibly add some in-tank UV filtration, if you didn't want to get rid of your stock. It can rip through a whole tank in a few days if water conditions aren't improved. Be very careful. (Here's a URL to refer to: http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/disease/p/columnaris.htm )
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Nov 22, 2014 02:02
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Couple of days on now and no further signs of issues, everyone is happy. I've stepped up the water changes and just generally keeping a really close eye on things. Fingers crossed it was a one off, we lost half our tank to an infection at the start of the year and I don't want to go through that again.
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Nov 22, 2014 18:53
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I got a 45 tall tank and stand for pretty much free. I have been wanting to do a planted FW tank for awhile, I figure I might as well do it with this tank. Can anyone point me towards some lights that will grow plants in a tank this deep (24")?
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Nov 23, 2014 03:54
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Mine's 18 tall and I have one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Fi...=item1e85e50865 Plants grow like crazy despite it being the only real light that hits the tank. Even grows the gently caress out of the algae for the fish to eat.
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Nov 23, 2014 12:16
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For 8 months or so, on some bad LFS advice, my dad has had an aquarium with tiger barbs and 4 amano shrimp. They all seemed to get on OK until this week when 3 of the shrimp vanished, and I found the last (biggest) shrimp hiding behind the heater with 3 tiger barbs bearing down on him. I cleaned out a jar and filled it with tank water, a plant and food pellets and dropped him in there where he seems to be recovering and moving about OK. Is it possible the tiger barbs suddenly acquired a taste for the shrimp after so long? Also, how long is the shrimp likely to survive in a big coffee jar with no heater? The water seems to be staying about 23 Celsius in the room. It's a temporary solution to keep him alive until I can think of something better
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Nov 23, 2014 12:47
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I added a male and female macmasteri to a 30 gallon community tank with like 25 other fish. The two cockatoo's who were already in there are going crazy and harassing the macmasteri's to the end of the tank and back - the male keeps roaming around hunting for them. I think the female cockatoo is trying to setup a rock to breed in and it's causing hyper aggression. The tank is heavily planted, so there are hiding places, but this aggression is really starting to be a concern. Is there anything that can be done besides waiting out the nesting for the cockatoos? I don't have another tank I can put them in.
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Nov 23, 2014 13:25
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CactusWeasle posted:For 8 months or so, on some bad LFS advice, my dad has had an aquarium with tiger barbs and 4 amano shrimp. They all seemed to get on OK until this week when 3 of the shrimp vanished, and I found the last (biggest) shrimp hiding behind the heater with 3 tiger barbs bearing down on him. I cleaned out a jar and filled it with tank water, a plant and food pellets and dropped him in there where he seems to be recovering and moving about OK. It all depends. They might have simply not been able to catch them. After 8 months though the shrimp are likely slowing a bit now that they're adults. Juveniles tend to be real quick and overly anxious.
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Nov 23, 2014 19:38
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Kharnifex told me to post here, so I will. Up until recently, I had a 50 gallon tank that was algae city because, in hindsight, it was a low tech tank without sufficient lighting or proper substrate that I was dosing at high tech levels. I wasn't happy with the proportions of the tank anyway, so I decided to replace the whole lot. Here's the new 60 gallon tank. Same length and width as the old tank, just taller. Eco-complete substrate, around 78 watts of homebrew LED lighting.  Aiming to keep things simple, so just anubias and hairgrass. All of the anubias was originally on the one piece of driftwood in the middle, it was pretty overgrown. The hairgrass has only been in a few days. There used to be quite a lot of cherry shrimps, but only 3 or 4 remain, definitely want to get more. Also, more cories and otos to keep the current ones company. Unfortunately, algae is starting to rear its ugly head:  ...so I could use some guidance on lighting and dosage. I've been feeding the fish twice a day recently, so first thing I've done is cut back to once a day. - I'm adding (Flourish) potassium and iron every 1-2 days according to the dosage on the bottle. Is this sufficient? I want to make sure I'm matching with nitrates and phosphates. - Weekly 20-25% water changes okay? I used to do about a third with the old tank, but it's a bit much with the bigger tank. - How much light is too much light? The above photos are at full power, but I normally have them a fair bit dimmer, maybe 70% by perceived brightness, for 10 hours a day. - I have an inline CO2 reactor on the left side filter, which has the spray bar. Since this outputs close to the surface, would I be losing much of the CO2 back to atmosphere? Is there a better arrangement of filter outputs that I can use to improve water and CO2 circulation? (Left is Eheim 2215, right is 2213) Also, I have one of these cheap-rear end regulators:  It works, but the needle valve is impossible to adjust with precision. I'm not sure if it bothers me enough to replace the needle valve. There was someone in the US selling regulators with all the bells and whistles, but from memory the shipping cost was insane. Does anyone know of any good, reasonably priced regulators? I might revisit getting one from the US now that Australia Post has a reshipping service.
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Nov 26, 2014 10:21
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The Dregs posted:I got a 45 tall tank and stand for pretty much free. I have been wanting to do a planted FW tank for awhile, I figure I might as well do it with this tank. Can anyone point me towards some lights that will grow plants in a tank this deep (24")? I'm a huge fan of buildmyled
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Nov 26, 2014 10:34
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Smirk: You have way too few plants for that sort of set-up to compete with the algae. And the plants you do have (Anubias) are very slow growers which aren't going to pull a lot of nutrients from the water. You're all set up for some fast-growing stem plants, so why not plant them?
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Nov 26, 2014 15:18
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Or get some more happy algae-eaters like otos or amanos!
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Nov 26, 2014 15:28
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I've been treating my tank for fungus as a few of my fish had small spots. one in particular as quite covered on one side and I thought he would likely just die during treatment. Hes still swimming about and I cant manage to catch him with a net so where do I go from here. Will the fungus that is still on him continue to spread or did the treatment render it inert?
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Nov 26, 2014 17:38
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Breaking my tank up into 6 sections, top and bottom halves of each 1/3 of the width of the tank, my big green sunfish has claimed the entirety of the bottom side that the filter is on. He will chase anyone who comes into his area... except the peacock eel. It's almost like he's confused about an animal with 12 eyes... How does this thing possibly have two eyes by it's mouth and ten more by it's rear end? This morning I watch the eel swim circles around the green sunfish, at the big greenie finally just swam off and chased the rest of the fish in the tank. Has the pecking order changed because of the twelve confusing eyes?
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Nov 26, 2014 20:28
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newts posted:Smirk: You have way too few plants for that sort of set-up to compete with the algae. And the plants you do have (Anubias) are very slow growers which aren't going to pull a lot of nutrients from the water. You're all set up for some fast-growing stem plants, so why not plant them? I'm a huge fan of frogbit. It's basically giant duckweed. They grow super fast and suck up nutrients but they're very easy to remove so you don't get a takeover or infestation like the duck of death.
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Nov 27, 2014 00:57
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Speaking of plants, will frogbit survive a goldfish onslaught? My goldfish scramble ended in success, and five months later he is McLargeHuge and I want to plant the tank to reduce the rate of nitrate accumulation. I needed something fast-growing so I bought some duckweed a while back and went through all the trouble of bleaching, de-bleaching, and de-snailing it. Spent a couple weeks farming enough to cover most of the tank surface. Once I had enough I dumped it all in there and... he ate it. All of it. In two hours. So much green poop. e: Bonus fishpic (about half of current size) 
Eyes Only fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Nov 27, 2014 |
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Nov 27, 2014 03:17
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I had frogbit in the previous tank - it reproduced like crazy and I was throwing out piles of it every other week. It started to die off, so I was only able to bring across three small pieces to the new tank. I'm hoping it'll come back, but the pieces tend to get stuck against the filter pipes, and they don't get much light at the edges of the tank. Would I have enough plants if/once the hairgrass covers most of the tank?
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Nov 27, 2014 04:01
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Picked this up a couple of weeks ago, and luckily it was out today when a friend with a camera was over. She hasn't sent me the in tank pics yet, but here are a couple from when I grabbed it out to show it off before it disappeared again into the substrate for however long. Black Devil Spike Snail (Faunus ater) (click for big):   It acts like a really big MTS so far. At $3.91 for a neat looking 2"+ snail, I can handle not seeing it much.
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Nov 27, 2014 11:58
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Desert Bus posted:Picked this up a couple of weeks ago, and luckily it was out today when a friend with a camera was over. She hasn't sent me the in tank pics yet, but here are a couple from when I grabbed it out to show it off before it disappeared again into the substrate for however long. That looks like a nightmare come true.
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Nov 27, 2014 17:28
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My daughter got a fish while trick or treating and we're trying to keep it alive. Being good parents, we got a small 1.5 gallon tank with a little bubbler powered filter, water conditioner, a bottle of tank pro-biotics and some test strips. A few weeks later, my daughter said that our fish needs friends, so we went to the store and got 3 more small fish (probably goldfish, tank wasn't exactly labeled). THEN I decided to read up on taking care of fish. We haven't gotten to the point where the bacteria are taking care of the ammonia, and we're replacing about half the water every 12 hours to deal with the ammonia (trying not to use something that just removes the ammonia since I've read that can prevent the bacteria from taking hold). When I replace the water, I let it get to room temperature and condition it before I add the water to the tank. How can I save these fish? Do I need to get a 20 gallon tank (with a 200 gallon/hour filter and pump) now and cycle it properly before I transfer the fish or do something else? This is a big thread and I bet this has been answered before, but it's gonna take me a few days to read through it all.
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Nov 27, 2014 19:01
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Fire Storm posted:My daughter got a fish while trick or treating and we're trying to keep it alive. Goldfish are DIRTY. And get BIG. Call your local Petco stores til they have their dollar a gallon sale and get at least a 40 gallon breeder tank, or check Craigslist for a cheap big tank and then filter it as if it were double the size. Use the filter media and the (probably useless) bacterial supplement to help cycle the new tank. I like goldfish, but they get large and produce massive amounts of waste. Luckily they're hardy so they'll probably live til you can do better. It would be good to know what the new fish are, since Goldfish require/do better at lower temperatures than most anything else you'll find at a pet store. If they are Cyprinids like the one in your pic, then no heater is needed, if not, you'll want to get a heater and hope you can find a good balance. Can you post pics of the new fish? Also, what kind of person gives out live animals to small children on a generally cold night? WTF. I can't decide if it's better or worse than giving out Goldfish as prizes at a fair.
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Nov 27, 2014 19:27
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Enos Cabell posted:That looks like a nightmare come true. It is a pretty evil looking snail, which is why I assume it has such an imposing name "Black Devil Spike Snail". 2-2.5", solid black shell and body. It only eats not live things though, won't breed in FW, and I don't think it does parthenogenesis, so in terms of snails, it's pretty harmless.
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Nov 27, 2014 19:33
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Desert Bus posted:It is a pretty evil looking snail, which is why I assume it has such an imposing name "Black Devil Spike Snail". 2-2.5", solid black shell and body. It only eats not live things though, won't breed in FW, and I don't think it does parthenogenesis, so in terms of snails, it's pretty harmless. I have one, it just trucks round slowly eating biofilm and algae and minding its own business. 
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Nov 27, 2014 20:08
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Extra Smooth Balls posted:I have one, it just trucks round slowly eating biofilm and algae and minding its own business. Mine likes to disappear into the substrate for days at a time and then spend some time on top of it. If I want it visible, New Life Spectrum sinking wafers seem to be like crack to it though. It'll always show up if I feed those. I bought it in FW, I'm currently keeping it in FW, but I think I may set up a 5g or 10g brackish tank so I can properly keep it, maybe with a Guppy or two and/or 2-3 Bumblebee Gobies. Or maybe with more of its own kind in hopes of breeding them.
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Nov 27, 2014 20:16
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Enos Cabell posted:That looks like a nightmare come true. Let me introduce you to the Lewis Moon Snail.  We were at the beach and we found a bigger one trying to eat a smaller one trying to eat a clam. The bigger one was probably in the 7lb range. Thread relevant question: The light in my 30g hood burned out, and considering I got the whole thing used, I have no idea of the age/brand/size of the bulb. The connections look a little rusted and I couldn't get the tube to slide out. Am I doing something wrong, or is it just rusted and I should replace the whole assembly?
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Nov 27, 2014 22:22
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That devil spike snail looks amazing. Also  who gives out fish on trick or treating!
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Nov 27, 2014 22:24
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I've had the ponds set up in the back yard for a couple of weeks now, long enough to see that the evaporation rate is pretty high and the amount of leaf debris that falls in is also high and it doesn't seem suitable for fish without a lot of work. I'm going to abandon the fish pond idea and leave it for any local frogs that might want to move in. Instead, this week I got a 30 gal tank and have started transferring gravel and plants into it from the waste water tank that I had going, which had plants and ceramic media in it. I squeezed the gunk out of the filter sponge into the trickle filter in the lid of the tank hoping to seed it with some bacteria and put the ceramic media under the spray bar. Should I keep putting waste water from the little tank that does have fish in it into the big tank? Or should I move the fish in to help it cycle? The tank is mostly filled with treated water so I'm worried the bacteria might starve without more fish poop. I haven't added all the substrate and plants that I want to, only a bit on one end and am not sure if adding more while there are fish in the tank would be a good idea. The fish are three rosy barbs which seem happy enough still in their little tank, although they've started doing dominance circle fights. Not sure if that is a function of their age, or that I'd just given them a lot of live food so they were feeling extra feisty or if they just don't have enough room. I took out the sponge filter to give them more room and moved a plant and after that they explored the new layout as a little school with no fighting. I've searched but I can't find whether rosy barbs all fight for dominance or if it's just the males. Two of the fish I have are yellower with a darker tail spot and one is silver with a green sheen and a much fainter tail spot but they were all fighting. I'd assumed it was two males and a female but now I don't know if I have three males!
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Nov 28, 2014 02:44
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Without any animals in it, you'll have to keep the bacteria fed with ammonia. Waste water and squeezing out the sponge juice into your new tank will definitely be a help. Dropping fish food in to decay and adding in extra pure ammonia are also methods that'll work. Putting fish in will also do this but you run a real risk of injuring the fish if the ammonia and nitrate levels go too high for the fish to handle and for the bacteria to metabolize just yet. Pick one of the above.
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Nov 28, 2014 03:00
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Desert Bus posted:Also, what kind of person gives out live animals to small children on a generally cold night? WTF. I can't decide if it's better or worse than giving out Goldfish as prizes at a fair. SynthOrange posted:Also How's this pic? All 4 are in this pic, the one above the orange fish is pure white.  Oh, at Thanksgiving dinner, my uncle gave me an old 10 gallon tank. Will that be OK for now (A year or so) or do I really really need a 20+ gallon tank NOW NOW NOW? And speaking of which, I don't know how long the 10 gallon tank and the media in it (gravel and a few other objects) have been dry and I don't know the reason for retiring this tank, so I should probably just replace everything, right or can I get away with cleaning everything? Really, the only stuff I'm concerned with is the filter and housing.
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Nov 28, 2014 03:58
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Whether from door to door or as some reward, giving out fish is a horrible idea since the days of "just put it in a bowl" are long since becoming memory. Providing the fish survives to that bowl, just dropping it in a fish bowl is a death sentence. Fish, particularly cheap and dirty goldfish, need a setup that's had time to cycle and ready itself for them which way over complicates the spur of the minute grab whatever's laying around and be done with it. Lot's of people don't care because it's "just a fish", but others do and the idea of forcing a fish on someone to be flushed immediately or stuck in a bowl to die over a period of weeks is horrible. On to the questions. A ten should be sorta ok, just get a filter that can handle twenty. Clean the tank (and filter if there is one), ditch the rest. Stuff like media and fake plants are cheap enough to just replace. Get yourself one of those bacteria starter colonies, they go for like 4 bucks at the pet store, even places like Meijers and Walmart have them. speaking of, I went to walmart and Meijers on a rare trip to the next town over the other day. Meijers was impressive, if not rather limited. The tanks were all sparkling clean, nothing dead, even the Bettas were in larger containers that were clean and all looked fairly lively. Then went to Walmart....uhg. blue water gladware Bettals full of grime, tanks were dirty, ugly, and had dead stuff. Even the snail tank managed to have dead snails in it, that takes some effort. Had a larger selection of fish stuff though. SocketWrench fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Nov 28, 2014 |
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Nov 28, 2014 04:10
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Hahah, a Little Nemo themed decorated tank. Woosh, message went right overhead.  Yeah the 10 gallon will do for now. They will eventually outgrow it, but not soon. You'll have to look into it eventually.
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Nov 28, 2014 04:14
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Fire Storm posted:How's this pic? All 4 are in this pic, the one above the orange fish is pure white. Yep, those all look like common Goldies. Should hit about 10-12" full grown. The bigger the tank you get them in now the longer you have before you have to upgrade to the 55g-75g they're going to need if they all survive. Goldfish need big tanks and excessive filtration not only because they are bigger active fish, but because compared to other fish of similar size they produce vastly more waste. Larger water volumes allow that to be far more diluted. If the 10g has been sitting dry for any length of time, you may need to remove and replace the silicone. Everything else should be fine to use after cleaning. 10g is better than what they're in now and would be OK for now, but it is a very very short term solution. Instead of being OK for a year, it is good for the length of time it takes you to go out and buy a bigger tank and set it up. To quote the OP of this thread: quote:Goldfish - Goldfish are a tragedy and almost no one who keeps them should be allowed to. What most new hobbyists think of as a goldfish is only an infant. Goldfish are a foot long (at least) carp with a lifespan of fifteen to twenty years. In addition to their great size they are also one of the most demanding freshwater fish chemically because of their oxygen needs and waste production. They absolutely cannot be kept in a "goldfish bowl." They will quickly die. A good way to think of it is to imagine a scenario where almost no one knew that dogs were any bigger than a human hand, or lived longer than a few days, because so far as they knew the normal, traditional way to keep a dog was to seal it in a plastic bag as a puppy and leave the bag in the trunk of their car. Sorry, but by not doing any research, you've gotten yourself into quite the pickle. On the upside you will probably get to explain death to your daughter and get that difficult conversation out of the way.
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Nov 28, 2014 04:44
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Reminds me of koi ponds. I don't know anything about different breeds of koi, but every time I hear someone is making some little dinky pond for them in their yard, I'm like uhhhh better do your homework.
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Nov 28, 2014 05:41
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| # ? May 11, 2024 20:18 |
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They can also live a ridiculouosly long time for poopmonsters.quote:The age of a fish is calculated in much the same way as one works out the age of a tree by counting its rings; most fish have growth rings on their scales known as annuli. This technique was used to estimate the age of Hanako, meaning "flower maid", the world's oldest koi carp, who died in 1977 at the age of 226 years. Goldie, the oldest goldfish, had reached the age of 45 by the time he gasped his last in 2005. He was won at a fair in Budleigh Salterton in 1960, and by the time he died his skin had faded from a yellowy orange to a soft pink.
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Nov 28, 2014 05:48
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