|
Yeah this one didn't clear at all, the ecnlosure for the wheels and blade seem to be added in afterwards, I think, given they are made of plywood painted with the same green metal color. So perhaps the saw is old enough to predate modern safety notions like this. At any rate it made it easier to get it off and I was able to easily lift it off. Then I got the wheel and table off, turns out I got a fence for the table too, also cast iron. But I wasn't able to get the saw inside even partially dismantled. I called for help and on saturday morning I will have two guys with a tractor and fork lift to come and lift it in for me and then we can get it off the pallet and roll it onto place. I think it will stay there for a good while, no idea if I can make a mobile base strong enough for this. Too bad it has to stay outside for so long though in this lovely weather, wrapped in a tarp to protect it as much as I could.
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2014 21:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 07:04 |
|
|
I took my first attempt at woodworking with out my father holding my hand and made a simple cutting board. Unfortunately there is one or two small gaps in the board due to not having perfectly strait pieces or not enough glue. I have read back a large portion of the thread and it is mentioned that any holes/gaps in wood boards can be really bad, so what is the best way to fill these holes? All the wood filler I have does not mention being food safe, unlike the glue. Thanks
Unknownmass fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Nov 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2014 19:59
|
|
|
How small is small?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2014 20:06
|
|
|
I can fit my finger nail, but did not notice them when running my hand and feeling for them at first.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2014 20:14
|
|
|
I did a little googling, and turned up this Lumberjocks thread which looks right up your alley.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2014 20:31
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I did a little googling, and turned up this Lumberjocks thread which looks right up your alley. Nice, that's helpful. Here is what my local woodcraft had when I got there- Having actual board lengths of exotics is really rare for this store, unfortunately it is one of the smaller ones with nothing resembling a warehouse full of wood.  My haul  (left to right- Shedua, Paduak, Tzalam, Chechen, purpleheart) The grain on the Tzalam is really awesome. At $6.99/bf I probably should have bought more, but I gave them too much money today on other things too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2014 23:45
|
|
|
It might have been mentioned already but Lowe's has Microjigs on sale for $39 and the website has free shipping. I always thought they were gimmicky but after hearing so many glowing reviews I broke down and bought one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 00:06
|
|
|
Are you talking about the RRR ripper or whatever? I have to go to Lowes tomorrow anyway. Thanks for the heads up. I get nervous easily around my saws and was thinking about grabbing one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 01:24
|
|
|
Can anyone tell me what kind of plane this is? I got it for a dollar at a garage sale because hey one dollar plane but I have no idea what the hell it is. Seems to be missing some parts too. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 01:34
|
|
|
looks like either a rabbet plane or a shoulder plane to me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 01:41
|
|
|
kenny powerzzz posted:Are you talking about the RRR ripper or whatever? I have to go to Lowes tomorrow anyway. Thanks for the heads up. I get nervous easily around my saws and was thinking about grabbing one. I picked one up a few weeks back. tl;dr- buy it. buy 2. Safety-wise it is a no-brainer. You have a nice grippy surface on both sides of the blade all the way through the cut, certainly reducing the chances of kickback or binding. With 2 of them you can do hand over hand on long cuts. You can safely and easily make cuts that would have given you pause before, it really does give you a lot more control.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 01:49
|
|
|
The Dreamer posted:Can anyone tell me what kind of plane this is? I got it for a dollar at a garage sale because hey one dollar plane but I have no idea what the hell it is. Seems to be missing some parts too. Stanley no.78 deluxe rabbiting plane knock off. It's missing the fence.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 01:57
|
|
|
Why does it have (room for) two blades?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 02:09
|
|
|
kenny powerzzz posted:Are you talking about the RRR ripper or whatever? I have to go to Lowes tomorrow anyway. Thanks for the heads up. I get nervous easily around my saws and was thinking about grabbing one. Check stock first, all the stores around here are already sold out. They also had 16oz Titebond 1 for $4.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 02:36
|
|
|
wormil posted:Check stock first, all the stores around here are already sold out. You can order online and get the same price, free shipping too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 03:09
|
|
|
bimmian posted:You can order online and get the same price, free shipping too. That's what I did. The deal has been going on for a week or more and stores were sold out days ago. Also, if you do see it on the shelf for $59.99 have them check the price, it should be $39.99.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 03:16
|
|
|
RadioPassive posted:Why does it have (room for) two blades? so you can use it as a bullnose plane as well
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 03:57
|
|
|
I have some old boards (one by) that I want to rip down and use to build a picture frame similar to this - I am stumped as to how to build it though. Just a ton of half laps? That seems... Tedious. Someone tell me the really easy way that I am overlooking please.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 04:49
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:I am stumped as to how to build it though. Just a ton of half laps? That seems... Tedious. Someone tell me the really easy way that I am overlooking please. I bet that glued butt joints would hold just fine. I mean, it's a picture frame, it's not going to be taking a lot of load.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 04:55
|
|
|
mds2 posted:Stanley no.78 deluxe rabbiting plane knock off. It's missing the fence. Awesome thanks. Is it worth trying to find a replacement fence for it?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 05:48
|
|
|
The Dreamer posted:Awesome thanks. Is it worth trying to find a replacement fence for it? You might take a look at eBay. Your probably more likely to find a complete one for cheap. I have one that was left in a drawer of a house my brother bought. I use it with varying results. They are pretty common.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 06:05
|
|
|
wormil posted:That's what I did. The deal has been going on for a week or more and stores were sold out days ago. Also, if you do see it on the shelf for $59.99 have them check the price, it should be $39.99. Argh, I out this in my cart last night but didn't complete the order and now they're back to 59.99 with shipping not available. Dang. Just as well, I guess. I picked up at ROS, a grinder, and a finish nailer from Amazon which weren't incredible deal but were things I'd been needing. I've not had any luck finding a ROS or grinder on craigslist that wasn't beat to crap.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 16:07
|
|
|
My local lumber yard has stopped carrying 1/4 veneer-core ply and switched to MDF-core, which is an abomination. Anybody have a lead on where to get it online? My business kinda depends on it for drum heads, and I only have enough on stock for a few more months. Lowe's and HD have 1/4 pine-core which has voids scattered throughout the center. Super frustrating. Also willing to pay you to buy/rip/ship some sheets if anyone is set up for such a thing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 16:38
|
|
|
Maybe you could ask the lumberyard if they'd be willing to special-order for you? Failing that, it's remotely possible they'd tell you what their source was.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 17:09
|
|
|
The Dreamer posted:Awesome thanks. Is it worth trying to find a replacement fence for it? I got a complete stanley 78 off ebay with two other planes for like $50 so yeah just buy a 78 if you want one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 20:57
|
|
|
Fixed the gaps with a wood epoxy and it worked great. Thanks for the help.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 22:21
|
|
|
I've been working on the platform bed portion of the bed I'm making for myself. It is similar to the design in one of the more recent FWWs with some changes. 5 piece design: 3" toe kick to lighten the design up, two drawer units with 12" cabinet drawers and a 1.25" overhang of the face frame on top and bottom, a gently curved front footbed with wedged thru tenons, and a curved, arched sleigh back with wedged thru tenons. To save money and weight, I decided to make the inner frame of the toe kick out of lovely C/D oak ply and face frame it it with some really fantastic black walnut I picked up The model I made looks like this:  And the finished product for one side looks like this:  I plan on hitting it with some very dilute dye, followed by a sealer, then gel stain, then arm-r-seal varnish. Really excited for how it's going to look. My question for you: I'm ware that it's toxic and whatever, but is there any wood that has better smelling shavings than walnut? Planing the face frame flat once it was in place was orgasmic.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 01:45
|
|
|
Nice bed design. I think cherry is the best smelling so far. I've used so much walnut that the smell of it doesn't make me sick, per se, but it does smell like clogged sinuses, blunted turning tools and rusted cast iron to me now. Probably comes from working with so much of it green. Walnut did/sometimes still does smell nice though. I've heard sassafras smells great. Haven't gotten to use it myself.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 02:51
|
|
|
For my part the best-smelling wood is just yellow pine. Something about it smells right.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 03:12
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:I have some old boards (one by) that I want to rip down and use to build a picture frame similar to this - Dadoes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 04:22
|
|
|
I think it was tulipwood that I was turning once that melted my brain from the amazing smell?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 05:12
|
|
|
captainblastum posted:Dadoes. I might not catch your meaning - Dadoes to hold the glass in place, or for the actual frame assembly? I was planning the former, but can't really picture how the latter would work. Essentially just a dado cut into the side of every member, and then tenons as needed? For now I am thinking half laps in a few spots to give the whole thing a bit of structure and then just glued butt joints where I feel lazy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 07:08
|
|
|
I'm not sure if I should post this in the tools thread or here but... I set up my harbor freight sliding miter saw and adjusted it. I'm beginning to think I should have just made some test cuts with it first to see how true it was but the miter angle gauge was obviously off so I just adjusted the stop as well. Anyway with a nice square, the blade seems to be true. Like no gaps that I can see at all. However when I make cuts and flip the pieces around 180 it seems like it's off maybe 1/64th on one edge - maybe 1/128th. I mean just a tiiiiiny bit, but enough to be able to tell. So my options. 1. I need to try to adjust it again even though I spend 2 hours adjusting. I suppose I could be doing something wrong. 2. Something else is throwing it off like crappy uneven test stock (which it is). 3. The blade that came with it isn't good enough for super fine work (this is where I'm leaning) 4. I am somehow being sloppy with the cut because I am a woodworking babby (also likely) 5. This is perfectly normal variation and if I were making a picture frame (my first anticipated test project) I wouldn't even be able to tell after I glue everything up. Am I just being a spergy perfectionist or should this be micron perfect? Should I invest in a better blade and try again?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 16:47
|
|
|
On the continuing saga of my bandsaw, on saturday morning me and two old guys who came to help got it inside, took 10 minutes, then the two guys stood around talking poo poo for 40 minutes  I got the upper wheel shaft assembly reassembled today. Then I got the upper wheel back on, which was real easy just tapped it back on with a rubber mallet. There's some sideways wobble on the upper wheel and the lower wheel sadly. I'm not sure what the reason is or what can be done about it, or if it's even a big deal? Here it is with the wheel back on:  And here's the blade, I think it's a write off. While I am pretty sure the motor is not the original anymore, I think this might have been delivered with the saw from the factory   Closeup of the blade guide:  Lower blade guide:  Upper wheel closeup:  Closeup of the upper tire, it appears to be full of shavings, there was also a track in the middle which I think where made from the rusty teeth on this blade. I tried sanding it down and then recrowning but it's slow going, this was after I had sanded and turned the wheel by hand for some time.  I then decided to reassemble the table, it's insanely heavy but I got it up, also the fence mounted:  Pretty darn rusty but half an hour later and lots of elbow grease it looks like this:   Not perfect but good enough for half an hours work. What I am going to try and do is keep on with my recrowning attempts and see if the blade will track any better, right now the blade goes back and forth when I spin the wheels. I am not sure what role the wobbling wheels have in this or if its primarly a matter of the tires being worn.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 21:26
|
|
|
If you sight along it, is the actual cast iron wheel wobbling or is it just the tire? If it's more than just the tire, you can pull the wheels and check that the shafts don't wobble and then you're down to shimming, or having the wheels drilled out and bushings pressed in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 22:01
|
|
|
Seems to me to be the cast iron itself. The bearings feel tight however, no play that I can detect. Need to invest in a dial indicator so I can check the bearings I suppose.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 05:38
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:Anyway with a nice square, the blade seems to be true. Like no gaps that I can see at all. However when I make cuts and flip the pieces around 180 it seems like it's off maybe 1/64th on one edge - I have 3 miter saws (2 were gifts), one of them does the same as yours. I have adjusted, adjusted, adjusted, and by all accounts the blade is square until you cut something then the cut is not square. My guess is it has too much slop in the mechanism so the board pushing back throws it out of square. I finally gave up and retired it (meaning I stuck it in the back of my shop until I decide what to do with it). Another of my saws is almost identical (except it looks like hell and at startup sounds like a cat on fire) and cuts dead on when adjusted. I'd love to trade all 3 for one decent saw that doesn't pucker my butthole every time it starts. His Divine Shadow posted:Pretty darn rusty but half an hour later and lots of elbow grease it looks like this: You have no idea how much I'm coveting your bandsaw. And yes, invest in a dial indicator. They are super handy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 07:27
|
|
|
I'm also super jealous of that band saw. Picking up good used tools seems to be impossible in my area. Everything is either crazy overpriced or just cheap garbage  I've been trying for ages to find a decent lathe and band saw on craigslist and kijiji.I'm currently using a terrible Ryobi bandsaw that just has no power and can't keep tension worth a drat. I really need an upgrade... Also super jealous of that Grripper deal. Here in Canada it's only sold at specialty stores for insane prices. Like $85. I should probably just order one from the US next time I see a sale. Probably cheaper in the end even with the higher shipping.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 17:16
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:I might not catch your meaning - Dadoes to hold the glass in place, or for the actual frame assembly? I was planning the former, but can't really picture how the latter would work. Essentially just a dado cut into the side of every member, and then tenons as needed? Sorry, I could have elaborated on that a bit. I just meant a shallow dado for each joint in the frame (aside from the 4 outer corners). That will help keep everything lined up, and even though it doesn't need to be super strong, it would stand up to time and humidity changes a lot better than just a butt joint.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 17:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 07:04 |
|
|
I've been getting into making frames. Right now I cut each side with 45 degree angles on each end, use the router to make the inset for the picture + glass, then use wood glue + staples on the back to keep them together (I use grips to squeeze everything together over night). My question is will the wood glue be good enough to hold the frame together for a long time, or should I be using biscuits or dowels to insure the frames are not coming apart?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 18:04
|
|
