|
One of the battery terminals could have poo poo the bed. I told you the one was kinda jenky. But it worked and at the time you didn't have a replacement. But if the shop tells you a HUGE list of poo poo wrong ill be able to help again this week , but next weekend im getting some tool boxes so it would have to be before then. But hopefully the shop doesn't dick you too hard.
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 22:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 07:28 |
|
|
Literally nothing. Not even a crank.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 22:50
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:Literally nothing. Not even a crank. No click? That'd be your charging system (probably the battery terminal) having shat itself. With a click and no crank, probably the same.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 23:11
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:No click? That'd be your charging system (probably the battery terminal) having shat itself.  Unless Ford.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 23:14
|
|
|
Does it do anything when you turn the key on? Lights on the dash, etc? Sounds like something wrong with the battery terminals/wires.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2014 23:17
|
|
|
Dyscrasia posted:I think that it's safer to use engine braking rather than coasting neutral. If your in neutral, you will be unable to accelerate in an emergency. It also messes of the driving dynamics of your car, weight balance shifting, that sort of think. Very important for snow driving. You're over thinking it. What about all the tens of millions of automatic cars out there, none of which has any engine braking whatsoever? Engine braking is a tool in your toolbox, but is never required for safe operation of your vehicle. (In fact, on snow or poor traction surfaces, shifting down and engine braking too hard can cause the rear wheels to skid, much as if you'd locked up the rear tires.) Anyways, thread continues to deliver, A+ would read again 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 00:31
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:Literally nothing. Not even a crank. Literally nothing? As in no dash lights? No interior lights? Nothing? Revisit your adventures at your battery. Ensure everything is clamped down nice and tight again but also follow pos cable to the starter. This is REALLY going back for me (like, 15+ years) but I think there was an electrical box with fuses/fusible links near the battery. Take a look at those too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 01:21
|
|
|
his negative cable is trashed in multiple locations and the brass fitting that goes around the terminal was kinda junk. He probably needs new cables. also some type of solenoid under the exhaust manifold had a loose wire....ive never really delt with 80's Nissan tech so that's the only way I could describe it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 01:33
|
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:You're over thinking it. What about all the tens of millions of automatic cars out there, none of which has any engine braking whatsoever? Have you ever touched the shifter in an automatic car? They usually have settings that downshift and give you engine braking/torque converter braking.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 02:38
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:Have you ever touched the shifter in an automatic car? They usually have settings that downshift and give you engine braking/torque converter braking. Only if your current speed is faster than the stall speed of the torque convertor. As soon as you go below the stall speed, you lose lockup and then it no longer transmits force to the engine. And it's only relatively recently (in automotive technology) that autos with lockup on gears other than first have become common. The same lack of ability for a torque convertor to transfer torque forward from the wheels to the engine that makes true engine braking hard to achieve with an auto is also why you generally cannot push-start an auto but can push start a manual. They're generally designed to transfer torque in one direction only, from the engine to the wheels.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 02:55
|
|
|
you are both wrong and this is a stupid derail. I want to hear more about what's wrong with the 300zx, though it sounds like the thing southsidesaint mentioned is the starter solenoid and it sounds like an electrical issue not the severe engine damage I was worried about.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 03:35
|
|
|
no it was two small similar terminals on something that looked semi vacuum operated. and they were wires that went over tiny brass lugs that had a plastic end cap screwed over the one and nothing over the other.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 04:02
|
|
|
slidebite has a good point. When I flush my cooling system on my 280zx it takes about 15 minutes of the car running with the radiator cap off and me topping it off to get the thermostat open. Then I put the cap back on, let it run another couple minutes and shut it off. After it's cooled down 30 minutes later I take of the cap (carefully with gloves and a rag) start it up and top it off again until my temp hits 180 deg F. Put cap back on and do a shakedown drive. One thing that helps me on my fuel injection system is cleaning the wiring harness every year or so. I use Caig's Deoxit Gold and it makes the job pretty easy. That early Bosch fuel injection doesn't deal with extra resistance from corrosion well. http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1417321477&sr=8-6&keywords=deoxit whyfeel fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Nov 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 05:33
|
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:You're over thinking it. What about all the tens of millions of automatic cars out there, none of which has any engine braking whatsoever? Engine braking is a tool in your toolbox, but is never required for safe operation of your vehicle. (In fact, on snow or poor traction surfaces, shifting down and engine braking too hard can cause the rear wheels to skid, much as if you'd locked up the rear tires.) I suppose thats part of the fun of driving a manual.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 16:51
|
|
|
kastein posted:you are both wrong and this is a stupid derail. I want to hear more about what's wrong with the 300zx, though it sounds like the thing southsidesaint mentioned is the starter solenoid and it sounds like an electrical issue not the severe engine damage I was worried about. Yeah, I'm leaning more towards an electrical issue. I'd look more closely into it, but I really lack any semblance of tools, experience, or parts, so I have a plan. There's a guy nearby that specializes in Japanese Imports, small shop, sounded genuinely excited about the possibility of working on my car and not just from a money standpoint. While he's working on it, I'm gonna see if I can possibly peek in and get a little explaining on what he's doing/why he's doing it, because I really do need more explanation on this. Engine damage is highly unlikely, this is a brand new restored engine.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 18:06
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:
Not for long, if you keep overheating it 
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Nov 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 18:17
|
|
|
The thing about craigslist 'rebuilds' is that you have no way of knowing how competently it was done, until you take it apart and discover their idea of head gaskets was doubling up on the RTV.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 18:26
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:Yeah, I'm leaning more towards an electrical issue. I'd look more closely into it, but I really lack any semblance of tools, experience, or parts, so I have a plan.  I really doubt the overheating is due to the power problem. Hopefully the overheating didn't do anything too serious as the VG30 series is an iron block with aluminum heads and don't tolerate overheating terribly well. Echoing what ^^ about a rebuild. Who knows how good of a job he did. I can already tell by leaving off the fan shroud in a car like that he wasn't terribly bright.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 18:38
|
|
|
Propaganda Bob posted:The thing about craigslist 'rebuilds' is that you have no way of knowing how competently it was done, until you take it apart and discover their idea of head gaskets was doubling up on the RTV. Or that the "rebuild" consisted of putting new valve cover gaskets on it. That was a fun conversation.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 18:42
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Professional mechanics love people watching them work in their shop. Something tells me this is sarcasm. I really hope it's not, I'm the sort that just watches and listens quietly and asks occasional questions because I firmly believe that if you are working on my car, you know more than I do.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 20:51
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 21:23
|
|
|
Sorry, yeah, you can't really ask a mechanic that, unless you know them personally. What you need is an experienced and well-equipped AI goon nearby who can talk you through stuff.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 22:00
|
|
|
Your problem is you don't have enough power from your battery to engage the starter because of a bogus connection. Southsidesaint even said your terminal is wack and negative cable trashed. If a mechanic would let you (he wont) there is nothing to learn by watching someone remove a bolt at the end of that buggered cable because you could do that yourself. Get brave unfuck that simple thing and your car will fire right up and you can overheat it again driving home. Edit; Earn AI cred by doing this in the parking lot of whatever business your car is currently sitting in. stone soup fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Nov 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 22:36
|
|
|
I pulled up the original craigslist ad and I'm curious on whether the PO elaborated on any of his work when you bought it? Are there receipts or pictures or documentation of any kind? Was the work professionally done, or done by the PO himself? "FORGED RODS AND PISTONS" doesn't really tell you much. Not all forged bottom ends are created equal. Who made them? Is the crank cast, then? Are the bore and stroke (in layman's terms- the diameter of the cylinders and distance the pistons travel in them, respectively) factory? How much of boost does it run, and was it a factory turbo (I think you answered no on this- so who did the work)? What about the clutch and transmission? If this thing is making a lot more power than it was from the factory, you could be setting yourself up for future gearbox failure. Buying a modified car isn't necessarily a death sentence, or a recipe for future problems- but it does mean there are a lot more questions you need to get answered.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 23:06
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:Something tells me this is sarcasm. Yeah, the chances of that are pretty slim, albeit not impossible. If you ask and he allows it make sure you buy a lottery ticket ASAP.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 23:33
|
|
|
Make friends in your area who are car guys. Go be a gopher, bitch for the day, manager of undesirable tasks. I have a poo poo ton of stuff to do on the rally car and tell people to show up and turn wrenches for the day and they'll learn alot. Most don't. If there is extra time they'll even help you with your poo poo. If you want to learn about cars you need to work on yours or help others work on theirs as much as possible. It's like driving fast... you can read about it or jerk off to forza, but there is no replacement for seat time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 23:38
|
|
|
Wow OP, thread title is spot on. You need to learn (and quickly) about basics so you don't do any more damage to that car. Hopefully the mechanic can help get you going in the right direction even though he's not going to let you be his apprentice.  Read up on here and model specific forums and read any DIY posts on those forums to walk you through how to do stuff. I had the internet and a lovely Haynes manual about 10 years ago and ended up with a mostly reliable turbo project car. Mine wasn't tinkered with too much so I didn't have to do as much unfucking of things as you're surely going to have to do. Good luck you crazy bastard. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 23:41
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Wow OP, thread title is spot on. You need to learn (and quickly) about basics so you don't do any more damage to that car. Hopefully the mechanic can help get you going in the right direction even though he's not going to let you be his apprentice. Yuuuuup. Everything pretty much ran perfectly until I changed the battery (at the insistence of my mother, who INSISTED that "WHAT IF YOU GET STUCK IN A FAR-OFF PLACE" and worst case scenario pretty much just badgered me into getting a new one), and then electrical stuff started going weird.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 01:30
|
|
|
Yea its the cables/terminals, has to be.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 04:05
|
|
|
I had a similar problem when I first got my Z, even had a faulty connection on my battery terminal get loose while I was driving. It caused the car to almost stall in motion which was scary, but as soon as I tightened up the terminal clamp the problem never happened again, you need to change the terminals or the cables or both, it's an easy fix. I also had an overheating issue until I flushed my radiator and replaced my thermostat. It's an official nostalgic car at this point, it needs maintenance and you need to be brave enough to attempt some repairs. The more of these repairs you do the easier they will get, I'm an old hand now at disassembling the top end because my car had a bent valve when I bought it and I hosed up the reassembly a few times before I got it right. The best way to learn is to do and these cars are dead simple compared to what's on the road nowadays, get some garage time in, it will be the best thing in the end. http://www.xenonz31.com/issues.html That's a list of common issues and repairs for our cars, read it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 17:24
|
|
|
The starting issue really doesn't concern me dude, it has to be fucky wiring. The overheating on the other hand does. Even if it is an excellent rebuild done exactly how it should be, engines really don't like being overheated, that's how you turn a good motor into scrap.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 18:08
|
|
|
kastein posted:The starting issue really doesn't concern me dude, it has to be fucky wiring. I agree. The overheating really worries me a lot more than the starting, but I want both of them fixed.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 20:29
|
|
|
I didn't think anything could be as awesome as your adventures in tanking with pansy, but this is close. Also, what kind of chunks were coming out when you flushed the coolant? Like chunks of dirt or?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 22:14
|
|
|
Chunks of water pump impeller, maybe?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 22:25
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:Something tells me this is sarcasm. I actually know small shops that enjoy talking to non idiot customers while doing work. Shops that stand behind they work they do never seemed to care if I asked a few questions and peeked around a bit. Hell last shop owner ended up taking me out for drinks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 22:50
|
|
|
Elmnt80 posted:I didn't think anything could be as awesome as your adventures in tanking with pansy, but this is close. Also, what kind of chunks were coming out when you flushed the coolant? Like chunks of dirt or? Turns out that the Alternator apparently lost its belt hooking it up to the engine through some mysterious contrivance.  He's looking into the overheating tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2014 04:08
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:Turns out that the Alternator apparently lost its belt hooking it up to the engine through some mysterious contrivance. It is entirely likely that the alternator and water pump both run on the same belt.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2014 04:11
|
|
|
Raluek posted:It is entirely likely that the alternator and water pump both run on the same belt. Pretty sure that's how it works here too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2014 04:19
|
|
|
Raluek posted:It is entirely likely that the alternator and water pump both run on the same belt. Yeah even on cars with split belts this is almost universally true, I'mma bet we've located the problem. Split as in multiple, not shredded... you know what I mean.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2014 04:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 07:28 |
|
|
Fucknag posted:Yeah even on cars with split belts this is almost universally true, I'mma bet we've located the problem. Yeah it's true on all my stuff, but I don't know anything about these strange, fantastical furren cars. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2014 04:26
|
|