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Big Centipede posted:Very cool. Not enough people with candoia out there. Have you bred them? Not yet, I will be brumating them soon and I'll give it a shot next year
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# ? Dec 2, 2014 01:39 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 19:41 |
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Ugh, I bought a cricket keeper because my old ice cream tub was ugly and I put fresh crickets in there and now they are all dead. WTF WHO MAKES CRICKET KEEPERS OUT OF POISON?@!?
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 04:08 |
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Silver Nitrate posted:Ugh, I bought a cricket keeper because my old ice cream tub was ugly and I put fresh crickets in there and now they are all dead. WTF WHO MAKES CRICKET KEEPERS OUT OF POISON?@!? Roaches are the way to go, buddy. Your candoia reminded me that im hoping to get a few pairs of baby pseudaspis cana soon. A friend of mine got a gravid import in recently. Oddball snakes are awesome.
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 04:16 |
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If you didn't wash it out before using it, the finishing/release agents were probably still on there and killed them. Either that or the temp or humidity was out of their preferred range at some point in the last day or so, they didn't have enough moisture available, the phase of the moon in relation to your chakras and astrological sign wasn't perfect, etc etc. Basically crickets are prissy bitches that look for any opportunity to die and you should go roaches and/or black soldier fly larvae as soon as possible for your own sanity. Superworms are great too, just don't get them colder than 60ish. The last for freaking ever in a perforated container with steel cut oats as the bedding media. Just toss in a carrot chunk now and then for water, put gut load in a small bowl they can get in and out of.
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 04:30 |
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I don't really want to bother with a roach colony for two stupid anoles. YOU WERE SUPPOSED TO BE FOOD. Also, my adult male paulsoni is still not eating. I have tried mice, rats, ASF, anoles, frogs, chicks, fish, and scenting with all kinds of things. He was supposedly eating rats before I got him but I don't really trust the place I got him from. Today I pissed him off with a mouse, he struck and killed it, then left it there and went to his hide. I threw a frog in with him for overnight but honestly I don't think it's going to work. I'm so sick of assist feeding this fucker I just want to strangle him. ahhhhhhhhhhh I'm going to wash out the cricket thing really well and try again, but why the gently caress would they sell a poison cricket keeper? That just seems irresponsible. Edit: Big Centipede that looks like a cool snake you should def. get one. Silver Nitrate fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Dec 3, 2014 |
# ? Dec 3, 2014 06:06 |
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Silver Nitrate posted:I don't really want to bother with a roach colony for two stupid anoles. YOU WERE SUPPOSED TO BE FOOD. How big is the paulsoni? Last time it ate? Ive heard people talk about candoia having exceptionally slow metabolisms. If its been like a month or two it may just be fasting.
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 06:18 |
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He's about 5 feet long, a very large adult. It's been four months with me, imported seven months ago. He started loosing weight last month and I began assist feeding him. His weight loss has stopped but the only thing I can get in him is mouse pinks and he'll only cooperate with being fed up to four at a time, so I've been doing that once a week now. He's pretty thin too, very easy to feel his ribs. Compared to my female who is about 4 1/2 feet he's much, much thinner. He's so pretty and I need him to make babies so this is very frustrating.
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 07:01 |
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Silver Nitrate posted:He's about 5 feet long, a very large adult. It's been four months with me, imported seven months ago. He started loosing weight last month and I began assist feeding him. His weight loss has stopped but the only thing I can get in him is mouse pinks and he'll only cooperate with being fed up to four at a time, so I've been doing that once a week now. He's pretty thin too, very easy to feel his ribs. Compared to my female who is about 4 1/2 feet he's much, much thinner. He's so pretty and I need him to make babies so this is very frustrating. Yeah, losing weight isnt good. Has he been treated for parasites?
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 07:19 |
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He has to make a poo before he can be tested. Hoping that happens soon.
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 07:47 |
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Good news! Early Xmas gift: my spider female ball python laid eggs back in September. They hatched yesterday. I pulled the babies this morning, mostly because mom snake was going nuts and looking for food (she, unlike our albino female, DID eat while she nested). Pulled 7 babies out. Not bad for a clutch I wasn't sure would make it! 2 bumblebees, at least 1 pastel, and the rest might be normal phase. Dad snake was a pastel. Bad news. One baby found dead this afternoon. Not a mark on him. No idea why. And he was one of the larger ones too...I'd have thought the runt would die if any of them did. Fingers crossed for no more. Perhaps I pulled them too early, but mom Crackle was very active and close to crushing them a few times. So far when moving the babies to another container, two of them struck at me. Silly babies! You have a week before you strike for food!
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 22:42 |
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Anyone here into Amazon Tree Boas?? My wife is super into them, and purchased a number of them from an ex-breeder who was getting out of the hobby about 2 years ago after we got our first and only Green Tree Python. ATB's are the only snakes in my collection that regular leave me bleeding, super aggressive, but very pretty animals. We have them in opaque containers at the moment due to aggression, but when our final snake room is completed I'm planning some sort of natural enclosure that hopefully will allow us to see them, and allow them to be concealed enough to not flip out and smash their faces in a desperate attempt to kill. We also got babies. Here's some of the prettiest ball pythons from this years breeding project. I don't know poo poo about genetics, my wife and her hobby partner are all into that. I just feed and clean, also play with them.
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# ? Dec 4, 2014 15:31 |
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I'd like to get a pair of ATBs at some point, but right now all I have room for is terrestrial animals. They're such pretty things, even if they are made of hate. I'm working on selling off my colubrids and I'm going to focus on boids.
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# ? Dec 5, 2014 07:30 |
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beyonder posted:Decided to get my first snake. Still in the "lets make his/her first home pretty" phase but hey you gotta start somewhere. Have you considered a ball python? They are available in many different colourings, are very laid-back and don't move fast like a corn. Possible downsides are that they're shy and nocturnal. big dig posted:
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# ? Dec 6, 2014 19:02 |
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I've got a 4 year old bearded dragon named Arkose who has been been showing some weird behavior for the past couple of days. He's been jumping at his heat/light lamp (mercury vapor bulb) in the morning after it first turns on. Its about a foot above the bottom of the tank and I have some tank decoration so if he wants to get closer (by a couple of inches) he can. I've seen him hit his nose on it and once he caught his claw on the rim of the housing. His temps seem fine, a little less than 100F right under the light and ~75F everywhere else, and staying that way through the night. What worries me is that it coincides with us bringing a dog home. He's been super chill about the lizard, but I'm wondering if he's stressing Arkose out. I just wanna keep my little buddy safe!
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# ? Dec 7, 2014 14:26 |
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Binary Logic posted:Have you considered a ball python? They are available in many different colourings, are very laid-back and don't move fast like a corn. Possible downsides are that they're shy and nocturnal. Is there a trick to balls or something? Initially I wanted to get a ball python, but I ended up adopting a neglected corn snake (previous owners were feeding it one pinky a month and it was about a foot long at over a year old) and I've really enjoyed him. I work at a pet store that regularly has baby balls, and while I've never been struck, they always seem to be moody assholes. Is it something they grow out of? We took in a juvenile ball that was about three times as big as the babies to adopt out once, and he seemed just as much of a dick. I'm just kind of intimidated because they get so much bigger around than a corn and I've yet to handle one that didn't seem one irritation away from biting the poo poo out of me. I wish I had the space for a red tail and/or didn't have any cats.
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# ? Dec 7, 2014 18:59 |
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Fausts Pen posted:I've got a 4 year old bearded dragon named Arkose who has been been showing some weird behavior for the past couple of days. He's been jumping at his heat/light lamp (mercury vapor bulb) in the morning after it first turns on. Its about a foot above the bottom of the tank and I have some tank decoration so if he wants to get closer (by a couple of inches) he can. I've seen him hit his nose on it and once he caught his claw on the rim of the housing. His temps seem fine, a little less than 100F right under the light and ~75F everywhere else, and staying that way through the night. What worries me is that it coincides with us bringing a dog home. He's been super chill about the lizard, but I'm wondering if he's stressing Arkose out. I just wanna keep my little buddy safe! My bearded dragon wants to eat my dog's face. Meanwhile my dog has never even noticed him.
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# ? Dec 7, 2014 20:01 |
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DrNutt posted:Is there a trick to balls or something? Initially I wanted to get a ball python, but I ended up adopting a neglected corn snake (previous owners were feeding it one pinky a month and it was about a foot long at over a year old) and I've really enjoyed him. I work at a pet store that regularly has baby balls, and while I've never been struck, they always seem to be moody assholes. Is it something they grow out of? We took in a juvenile ball that was about three times as big as the babies to adopt out once, and he seemed just as much of a dick. The more handling a snake has, the calmer they are. A lot of the time babies are nippy because they are scared about a giant monster picking them up and touching them. They usually calm down after a couple of months.
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# ? Dec 7, 2014 23:03 |
Got a pair of juvenile axolotls at the end of October! They're hella cute.
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# ? Dec 8, 2014 16:37 |
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Muppets: That pair is so awesome looking, just look at those dumb, cute faces, ahhh
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# ? Dec 8, 2014 21:37 |
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pastor of muppets posted:Got a pair of juvenile axolotls at the end of October! They're hella cute. Axolotls are awesome pets, they have the attitude of a Cat, but don't poo poo on the carpet. Feed me and go away, wait...turn the TV on, now go away. Great looking tank as well.
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# ? Dec 10, 2014 03:32 |
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I thought you weren't meant to keep multiple axolotls in a tank lest they get pissy with one another? Have I been mistaken? I miss my axolotl. RIP Jesus
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# ? Dec 10, 2014 21:53 |
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Axolotls do fine together so long as there's enough space and they're the same size.
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# ? Dec 10, 2014 22:15 |
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Fuuuck. Week old bumblebee ball died this morning. That's two from one clutch already. drat.
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# ? Dec 11, 2014 14:40 |
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DrNutt posted:Is there a trick to balls or something? Initially I wanted to get a ball python, but I ended up adopting a neglected corn snake (previous owners were feeding it one pinky a month and it was about a foot long at over a year old) and I've really enjoyed him. I work at a pet store that regularly has baby balls, and while I've never been struck, they always seem to be moody assholes. Is it something they grow out of? We took in a juvenile ball that was about three times as big as the babies to adopt out once, and he seemed just as much of a dick. Only had a BP since September but he's been very chill. Has just hissed at me twice, both times when he was in his hide and I was awkwardly messing about in the enclosure - one time I was trying to put a vine in and dropped it on the hide, so it was my fault.
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# ? Dec 12, 2014 03:19 |
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A two-headed salamander: http://io9.com/this-two-headed-israeli-salamander-is-kind-of-freaking-1670397458 Super cute.
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# ? Dec 12, 2014 22:34 |
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Cowslips Warren posted:Fuuuck. Week old bumblebee ball died this morning. That's two from one clutch already. drat. That's really lovely. My condolences. How many do you left, are they all seeming to do well?
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# ? Dec 12, 2014 22:48 |
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MrConfusedTurkey posted:That's really lovely. My condolences. How many do you left, are they all seeming to do well? Four of the five albinos, and five of the seven Crazy Spider mom clutch. My mom took it pretty hard, she almost cried when I showed her she finally got her bumblebee. drat.
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# ? Dec 12, 2014 23:02 |
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Sorry to hear that Cowslips. So, I brought my non-feeder to the vet today. The vet gave him a appetite stimulant/wormer and some protein slurry. I should know if it worked in a week or two. This is him a couple of weeks ago. You can see he has started to loose weight. This is what he gets tube fed until he starts eating again. I've heard from one person who had success tube feeding and rehabilitating their snake using this stuff, so hopefully it works for my guy. He's kept it down since his vet visit earlier today, which is a good sign. I really want him to pull through, but if he doesn't start eating in the next couple of weeks I'm just going to return him to where I bought him from and send out the female on a breeder's loan. Blah snakes are stressful.
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# ? Dec 13, 2014 06:58 |
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Captain Foxy posted:House of Reptiles piiiicccsss~ I love the House of Reptiles. You guys are great, and the museum is awesome. Got my Blonde Triela there a few days ago, and hope to be in a lot more in the future. Triela (A. Chalcodes) Munching on a roach It's a good thing she doesn't move a whole lot since I needed a 30 second exposure to get the right lighting. Couple photos were blurry still though. Oxidado (G. Rosea) xblackdog fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Dec 13, 2014 |
# ? Dec 13, 2014 16:39 |
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I found a hatchling mourning gecko who was missing her tail crawling around on my monitor a few days ago. She was so dehydrated that she could barely stick to anything and was overall pretty sad looking so I decided to try and see what I could do for her. It's been three days now and I've got her to drink off the fake plant I've got in with her and she even checked out the little water dish a few times, but as far as I can tell she hasn't eaten any of the pinhead crickets or the banana baby food I put out for her. I have some crested gecko food that the internet said they could eat on the way as well. She doesn't seem as active as other mourning geckos I've seen around my apartment and is kinda sluggish when she does move around. I read you can encourage them to eat by putting a tiny bit of their food on their face so they lick it off, but I'm worried this will stress her out even more. Any advice on how long I should wait before going with that? Or anything else I should try? Here she is chilling out on her little fake bush this morning -
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# ? Dec 23, 2014 20:02 |
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Silver Nitrate posted:Sorry to hear that Cowslips. That's the same kind of snake someone gave me that got abandoned at a Petco. I couldn't get it to eat and tried stunned mice and anoles. Ended up calling an exotics rescue. Hope that one starts eating. Small edit: The one I gave to the rescue is doing fine now though.
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# ? Dec 24, 2014 17:36 |
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Silver Nitrate, can we get an update on your boa? (What species is that anyway? Ground boa?) I've never had to resort to slurry feeding so I'm curious about how that's been working out for you.
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# ? Dec 25, 2014 17:38 |
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He refused an anole and a mouse last weekend, but he did make a poo and has been moving around more. Going to try another anole and mouse this weekend.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 07:48 |
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Man crested gecko makes me smile every night. His tank and the gargoyle are next to each other and every night I spray their tanks in the same order. First gargoyle and then crested. Crested has picked up on this and now when he sees me spraying the other tank, he gets himself ready. Perches on a good leaf, puts his head up and open his mouth when I start misting him.
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# ? Jan 1, 2015 08:11 |
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Cless Alvein posted:Man crested gecko makes me smile every night. His tank and the gargoyle are next to each other and every night I spray their tanks in the same order. First gargoyle and then crested. Crested has picked up on this and now when he sees me spraying the other tank, he gets himself ready. Perches on a good leaf, puts his head up and open his mouth when I start misting him. He wants to bite you.
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# ? Jan 1, 2015 16:26 |
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Stupid loving snake still not eating. Had anoles in his cage for 48 hours now. My dad is coming over this weekend to help tube him. Blarg.
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# ? Jan 2, 2015 05:07 |
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Hello, reptile and amphibian thread! I'm planning on getting a turtle for a friend- specifically, a Central American Wood Turtle. She wants a herbervorous turtle, and this was the closest I could find for beginners (I'm not sure why she wants a turtle and not a tortoise. It seems like it would be easier to find herbervorous tortoises, but she said she wanted a turtle). Anyway, it seems that while a good 30 gallon terrarium will work for a hatchling, these guys need enclosures of at least 4' x 4' x 2' (L x W x H) as adults. Since standard terrariums don't have these dimensions, I'm assuming we'd have to build the enclosure ourselves. Does anyone have any experience with these turtles that could give me some advice on keeping them? Is there anywhere where I can find an enclosure of the proper size for this type of turtle, or will I have to build one? Finally, are there any other herbervorous turtles that you guys could suggest for a first-time turtle owner? Maybe one that doesn't require so much space?
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# ? Jan 4, 2015 17:49 |
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Zandorv posted:Hello, reptile and amphibian thread! I'm planning on getting a turtle for a friend- specifically, a Central American Wood Turtle. She wants a herbervorous turtle, and this was the closest I could find for beginners (I'm not sure why she wants a turtle and not a tortoise. It seems like it would be easier to find herbervorous tortoises, but she said she wanted a turtle). Anyway, it seems that while a good 30 gallon terrarium will work for a hatchling, these guys need enclosures of at least 4' x 4' x 2' (L x W x H) as adults. Since standard terrariums don't have these dimensions, I'm assuming we'd have to build the enclosure ourselves. Does anyone have any experience with these turtles that could give me some advice on keeping them? Is there anywhere where I can find an enclosure of the proper size for this type of turtle, or will I have to build one? Finally, are there any other herbervorous turtles that you guys could suggest for a first-time turtle owner? Maybe one that doesn't require so much space? I'm pretty sure most turtles are omnivores and need meats.
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# ? Jan 4, 2015 19:00 |
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Well, according to several sources I've seen, the Central American Wood Turtle is "overwhelmingly herbervorous," and some people don't feed them insects at all. It seems the insects are not a necessary part of the diet, and the protein can be supplemented. If I'm wrong feel free to correct me- I don't want to accidentally give my friend a turtle that needs insects and tell her it's okay to feed it as if it were a herbevore.
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# ? Jan 4, 2015 19:12 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 19:41 |
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Hi all, I'm a new corn snake owner whose snake hasn't fed since I got it 5 weeks ago. This is my first reptile. She is a 3 year old female corn snake. I'm also a bit exhausted from all the conflicting advice I've been given, so I thought what better way to deal with this than post my questions in a different forum to receive yet more advice! I purchased the snake and all the setup from a well respected local reptile store. Here is the care sheet they provided, straight from their website: http://www.reptilesplus.co.uk/docs/snakecs.pdf I initially followed the setup exactly as printed on page 3, except with a smaller water bowl (recommended by the shop), and with the bulb stat probe at the back middle of the viv, resting on the aspen (also recommended by the shop) - as supposed to in the very middle. So, following instructions exactly, I had a 50w green incandescent bulb statted at 82 degrees, with the stat probe in the back centre, and an unstatted heat mat covering the right hand third of the viv. Here is what it looked like after initital setup: A cheap dial thermometer the pet shop gave me, resting in the middle of the cork bark in the above picture read at 82 degrees, which makes sense as the stat probe for the bulb was just behind it - so feeling secure in the knowledge that'd I'd done exactly what the shop told me to do, in went the snake, where it immediately went and buried itself in the aspen on the left and hid. Not unusual behaviour for a new snake so not too worried - I left it alone, only changing the water - didn't see the snake come out at all during this time - then after 10 days, dropped a large defrosted mouse in the cold side (probably on the snake as I had no idea where it was). I was informed the snake was an established feeder and was drop fed (like all the snakes) at the pet store. The snake didn't come out that night before I went to bed, and the mouse was still there in the morning so as instructed, I removed it. Later that day when I came back from work the snake was out and about (for the first time), climbing around, flicking tongue, very active (looking for the mouse?), very encouraging to see but as we'd been told to wait a week after a refused feed, we left it and eventually she went and hid again. After a week we tried again but still the mouse was still there the morning after. I did some research / got some advice at this point and people seemed surprised I had an unstatted mat (which I now know is not good) AND was using a statted bulb as well - I was told this seemed like overkill (and that I should get a mat stat asap). I was also told I should put down more hides, which is fair enough. I had thought the mat was getting far too hot, by digging a little hole in the aspen and touching my finger to the mat it was uncomfortably hot to the touch! I purchased a digital thermometer with probe and placed it on the aspen just below the bulb / above the mat, it easily reached 140 degrees. This is one thing that I found really confusing, everything I've read says that a spot that hot in the viv is a terrible idea, but with the relatively small distance between the bulb and the floor of the viv, if the bulb has to work hard enough to get the centre of the viv up to 82 degrees, surely it's always going to result in a really hot spot just below? Anyway I was worried about how hot the mat was to the touch, so at this point I purchased a stat for the mat and set it to around 30 degrees, with the mat stat probe touching the surface of the mat, under the aspen itself - I was also told by many people that the bulb wasn't required at all, so I turned it off. So at this point I have no bulb and a mat that feels only warm to the touch rather than almost painfully hot for my fingers - seems like a pretty huge deviation compared to what I was told to do by the pet shop! I even spoke to them about how hot the mat felt and was just told that it was ok because 'they bask on very hot rocks in the wild'. Throughout all this we kept attempting weekly feeds with large mice, I've tried warming / braining / warming & braining / warming & braining & offering with tongs. I've got interest with movement towards the prey item, whether it's sat on the ground / a plate or I'm holding it, but no actual attempt to strike or eat. So since the initial setup the following changes had been made: - bulb switched off - mat statted at 86 - placed more hides - thinned out aspen over the mat Resulting in this: After making these changes she's been using her hides more rather than burrowing, I spotted her in the hide on the right over the mat once, and quite often in the middle hide. This was the setup the snake was left with over the christmas period while we went away for two weeks. We had people come in to change the water and I set the central heating to come on a few times a day to warm the room. I left the thermometer probe inside the hide on the warm side, resting on the surface of the aspen. When we came back at the start of January we were greeted with what appears to be a complete shed, albeit in 3 parts (tail tip and eye caps on the shed seem present and correct). We were hoping this was the reason she hadn't been eating (it's hard to tell when your snake was about to shed when it's constantly hiding and you've been told to avoid handling it until it's successfully fed a few times), but a mouse offered last Friday was not taken either. I'm concerned I came on a bit strong when offering the food, I lifted up the hide she was under to get her attention (but I wasn't poking her with the mouse or anything!) and after a few seconds she approached the mouse with interest and a flicking tongue but then turned away. I'm also concerned it got a bit cold over the xmas period (I'm in the UK), I recorded a low of 61 degrees in the warm hide. I doubt it was that low for very long as the central heating would have come on after a bit - I think it's because I'd taped the mat stat probe down to the mat (covering the whole probe) which was confusing it into not working hard enough. I got rid of the tape (tape is a bad idea anyway, I now know!) and am just weighing the probe cable down and it seems to maintain mat surface temp better. Since Sunday the temps have been: - Under the hide on the right hand warm side, under the aspen, actually touching the mat surface - Low: 29.6, High: 30.6 - Under the hide on the right hand warm side, on the surface of the aspen (about 1.5cm depth of aspen here) - Low: 25.0, High: 26.7 - Next to the hide on the left hand cold side, on the surface of the aspen - Low: 18.1, High: 19.1 I realise I have a bulb I could use for extra heating, but I don't really understand how I can get any appreciable heat from the bulb that would reach the cold side, without creating a dangerously hot spot right below the bulb. I've tried putting the bulb stat right below the bulb and setting to 86 degrees, but this results in a very dim bulb which I can't imagine throws out a lot of heat to the rest of the viv. I'm a bit concerned she's been in the left hide way on the cold side since the attempted feeding on Friday (worried I freaked her out a bit by lifting the middle hide to feed - I'm hoping the urge to hide isn't overpowering the urge to self regulate). I'm sure I used to see more evidence of overnight activity, whether it be disturbed aspen or her being in a different position in the morning, but she's not moved for a few days as far as I can tell. This is concerning me that she's too cold - of course I can't guarantee she isn't just moving down well established channels in the aspen when I'm not looking, before putting herself right back where she was before, but I still find it a worry. She's never really out and about in the evening as I hear they often can be. Because she's a 'new' snake to me, I don't really know what 'normal' behaviour for her entails. I was going to try a smaller prey item later this week, I have a medium and a small mouse to try (I read somewhere sometimes something smaller gets them feeding again). Besides that, I guess I'm just looking for any advice with regards to getting her eating, or my setup, or anything really. I've been reassured by many that an adult corn can last for months and months without food, but as you can probably tell from my huge email, this is weighing on my mind a bit. I just want to be a good pet owner with a happy snake! As a reward for reading all of this, at least have this picture I took a couple of days ago. I had to very quickly lift the cold hide to take this (sorry snakey): Debuffed fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jan 6, 2015 |
# ? Jan 6, 2015 16:52 |