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MJP posted:
Never noticed the upper arm spheres were a different color, how you painted those, flows really well in my opinion. Not enough pictures of the shoulders to be able to tell. The skirt looks like a shiny-er black then the shoulders. edit: with quote and picture Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Dec 11, 2014 |
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Dec 11, 2014 21:55
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Thanks again for the advice. Airbrushing is a bit past how far I want to take this hobby at this current point in time. The putty may be, as well, but not too sure on that. Regardless, it's good stuff to know.
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Dec 11, 2014 23:12
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Kibner posted:Thanks again for the advice. Airbrushing is a bit past how far I want to take this hobby at this current point in time. The putty may be, as well, but not too sure on that. There's no shame in a "natural" panel line, where they hell could they make all these arms and legs in singular parts anyway. That would of been a huge factory. I used plastic cement on my HG GM and it turned out pretty good. Then I tried my HG Gouf ignited and I totally destroyed some panel lines and thought it would be a good idea to use a X-ACTO to get them back. That didn't work to hot and now I tend to stay away from plastic cement. Plan on trying to clean it up at one point though. Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Dec 12, 2014 |
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Dec 12, 2014 00:33
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Tenzarin posted:Never noticed the upper arm spheres were a different color, how you painted those, flows really well in my opinion. Not enough pictures of the shoulders to be able to tell. The skirt looks like a shiny-er black then the shoulders. The skirt and torso got Future gloss coated. As an experiment I wanted to see if the gloss coat did better for decal mobility and adhesion vs. non-gloss coated. For what it's worth, I can't tell the difference. Kibner posted:Thanks again for the advice. Airbrushing is a bit past how far I want to take this hobby at this current point in time. The putty may be, as well, but not too sure on that. Go at the pace that works best for you, and the best for having fun.
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Dec 12, 2014 02:23
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My Gundam X collection pales to this person's love:
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Dec 12, 2014 02:29
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BlitzBlast posted:My Gundam X collection pales to this person's love: Good loving grief.
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Dec 12, 2014 03:25
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BlitzBlast posted:My Gundam X collection pales to this person's love: Here's the real question; Did build those collections at the same time, or is he moving on from one Mobile Suit to the next?
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Dec 12, 2014 03:27
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BlitzBlast posted:My Gundam X collection pales to this person's love: Believe in the shrine to Zeta.
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Dec 12, 2014 03:51
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Does the Winning come with extra parts to put on the Lightning/BBG, or will I have to buy a second Winning kit?
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Dec 12, 2014 04:03
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W.T. Fits posted:Believe in the shrine to Zeta.
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Dec 12, 2014 04:18
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The Missing Link posted:Does the Winning come with extra parts to put on the Lightning/BBG, or will I have to buy a second Winning kit? Nope, you gotta buy a second. The torso is the Winning Fist, after all.
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Dec 12, 2014 04:34
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Say, if I want my HG Mk.II or Lightning gundams to have more solid shoulder articulation, are there polycap replacement options. I can of course just shove some quick-set or smooth surface putty on the ends to make the connections tighter, but I don't know how much tolerance those polycap joints have.
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Dec 12, 2014 04:54
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There are third party joints, but if you just want tighter joints any sort of method to increase friction will do. Just make sure you don't glue them into place.
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Dec 12, 2014 04:59
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W.T. Fits posted:Believe in the shrine to Zeta.
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Dec 12, 2014 05:07
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BlitzBlast posted:There are third party joints, but if you just want tighter joints any sort of method to increase friction will do. Just make sure you don't glue them into place. Where can I look for these?
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Dec 12, 2014 05:08
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Search for joints on HLJ. EDIT: Holy crap, why did nobody tell me Tamashii Nations has an online calendar too? BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Dec 12, 2014 |
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Dec 12, 2014 05:10
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W.T. Fits posted:Believe in the shrine to Zeta. Zeta zeta zeta zeta zeta zeta zeta zeta zeta zeta zeta Hyaku Shiki!
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Dec 12, 2014 10:24
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I thought the Kotobukiya Metal Gear Rex was already a thing. Why is this a preorder? http://www.amazon.com/Kotobukiya-Metal-Solid-Plastic-Model/dp/B00911UQAS/ref=pd_sbs_t_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=155NN8CTZ7HR46PNGNG2 and it's cheaper than the currently existing one on the market?
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Dec 12, 2014 12:26
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Revitalized posted:I thought the Kotobukiya Metal Gear Rex was already a thing. Why is this a preorder? http://www.amazon.com/Kotobukiya-Metal-Solid-Plastic-Model/dp/B00911UQAS/ref=pd_sbs_t_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=155NN8CTZ7HR46PNGNG2 The other Rex is black.
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Dec 12, 2014 14:43
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TARDISman posted:The other Rex is black. Yes but they posted the Rex model that came out before the black Rex. I'm assuming it's a preorder for a new run of the older Rex model?
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Dec 12, 2014 15:12
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Uznare posted:Yes but they posted the Rex model that came out before the black Rex. I'm assuming it's a preorder for a new run of the older Rex model? You got it, and speaking as the most recent builder of the black Rex in this thread, the gray one is the one you want to build.
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Dec 12, 2014 16:04
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Ok i want to start getting into using a wash for panel lines and finishing models with a matte coat. I've got some tamiya acrylic flat black and their thinner, does it matter what material container the wash will be held in? E.x can i just use a cheap plastic bottle or will that have some sort of chemical reaction. Also i'm assuming i should do the wash before matte coating. I'm using testors spray lacquer.
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Dec 12, 2014 18:34
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madpanda posted:Ok i want to start getting into using a wash for panel lines and finishing models with a matte coat. I've got some tamiya acrylic flat black and their thinner, does it matter what material container the wash will be held in? E.x can i just use a cheap plastic bottle or will that have some sort of chemical reaction. With Tamiya you're fine. Hell, I think with most containers you're fine. Just to be sure I'd advise using a cheapo little paint cup that they sell at the dollar store, doubly so because they have lids, or a paper cup - don't use the good china or something you intend to eat/drink from later even after washing it out in the sink. Yes on the wash before matte coating. I think you may also want to gloss coat but I can't recall how critical that is, if at all.
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Dec 12, 2014 19:11
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MJP posted:You got it, and speaking as the most recent builder of the black Rex in this thread, the gray one is the one you want to build. Is there a difference in build quality?
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Dec 12, 2014 20:02
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Just paid the shipping on the two 2.0 kits and I keep telling myself I don't need the Sazabi and I should save some extra money this check but it's so haaaaaard.
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Dec 12, 2014 20:56
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Literally The Worst posted:Just paid the shipping on the two 2.0 kits and I keep telling myself I don't need the Sazabi and I should save some extra money this check but it's so haaaaaard. I'm not even kidding when I say that buying an airbrush and compressor has saved me money in the long run. Painting a kit makes it so it takes a lot longer to finish, and I buy way less kits because of it.
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Dec 12, 2014 21:47
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madpanda posted:Ok i want to start getting into using a wash for panel lines and finishing models with a matte coat. I've got some tamiya acrylic flat black and their thinner, does it matter what material container the wash will be held in? E.x can i just use a cheap plastic bottle or will that have some sort of chemical reaction. I was looking into an acrylic wash before I settled for brushing on future so I could do an enamel wash. Someone in the thread recommended doing 3 parts future and 1 part tamiya clear flat base and 1 part paint for an acrylic wash. From what I've read is the future settles on top of the paint while pulling the paint down into the lines. Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Dec 12, 2014 |
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Dec 12, 2014 22:32
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Revitalized posted:Is there a difference in build quality? I don't think there would be. Meanwhile, Rick Dom is Rick DONE.  Need to dust the beam bazooka but aww yeah.
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Dec 13, 2014 05:23
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Monaghan posted:I'm not even kidding when I say that buying an airbrush and compressor has saved me money in the long run. Painting a kit makes it so it takes a lot longer to finish, and I buy way less kits because of it. This gets asked every three pages, but what is a good entry level airbrush setup? My backlog is a Kshatriya, and while my work room is too drat cold right now for me to work comfortably, I'd like to do it 'right' once I finish my first Zaku ever, which I'm brush painting. Compressors and wands are expensive though, so I want goons to do my thinking for me. And also, it might do to put the tutorials and supply suggestions back in the OP. I reference the MK3 thread from time to time for those links.
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Dec 13, 2014 06:02
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Warmachine posted:This gets asked every three pages, but what is a good entry level airbrush setup? My backlog is a Kshatriya, and while my work room is too drat cold right now for me to work comfortably, I'd like to do it 'right' once I finish my first Zaku ever, which I'm brush painting. Compressors and wands are expensive though, so I want goons to do my thinking for me. I'd try asking around in the miniature painting thread in TG but what I see recommended the most are the Badger Patriot and this cheap compressor that's sold by a million different people on Amazon. There's a general resistance to talking about being in the same sort of hobby space as warhammer players around here but if you just want general advice about how to deal with acrylic paint either through regular brush or airbrush you can't beat that TG thread as a resource, at least on these forums.
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Dec 13, 2014 06:13
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What resistance? Closest I can think of is people not wanting to support Games Workshop, which is more of a "wow gently caress those guys". Another airbrush to consider is the Iwata Revolution.
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Dec 13, 2014 07:05
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MJP posted:I don't think there would be. Then why was the gray one suggested over the black one? Just curious!
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Dec 13, 2014 07:45
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So now that finals are mostly over and I actually have free time I started putting some kits together, starting with the Thunderbolt GM, which I snapped together tonight. This is incidentally the first gunpla I've put together in over a year. Fresh impressions: -I really like how the legs come together, really pleasantly solid. -I hope you like muddy yellow stickers because this kit has them in spades. -The shield arms are simultaneously more poseable than I expected and not nearly as poseable as they should be. Didn't this thing launch around the same time as a lot of the GBF booster packs? You had the molds for articulated arms right there, use them! -The right arm's torso connection is a little floppy, but I may have trimmed the polycaps a little too much so it's probably on me. -The looseness of the thruster pack, however, is entirely on bandai. That's getting glued after painting, no question. -gently caress shaving nubs on dark plastic forever. Are the weapons molded out of a different kind of plastic? stress showed up a lot easier on them than on everything else in the kit, I eventually said gently caress it and decided to add them to the painting queue. -My nexus 7's camera is dogshit, holy gently caress After this I'm probably going to decalify it,panel line, put some metallic paint on the thruster bells, and topcoat the thing.
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Dec 13, 2014 08:22
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Swagger Dagger posted:I'd try asking around in the miniature painting thread in TG but what I see recommended the most are the Badger Patriot and this cheap compressor that's sold by a million different people on Amazon. It's less about working with pants and more about not knowing jack or poo poo about compressors, airbrushes, or airbrush accessories. BlitzBlast posted:What resistance? Closest I can think of is people not wanting to support Games Workshop, which is more of a "wow gently caress those guys". What I have right now is basically a bunch of Citadel paints. In retrospect, younger me should have bought pretty much anything else, but you work with what you have. Incidentally, that muddy yellow on the GM looks exactly like one of the test bed yellow mixes I ended up with when loving around with mixing yellow paints a few weeks ago.
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Dec 13, 2014 08:26
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Well, to clarify, the chest vents, thrusters, crosses on the shields, and the collar are actual plastic parts. Everything else that's yellow is a sticker, and they're real fuckers too since they're all really narrow and fiddly and go over odd contours. You can only see about a third of them in that picture, not counting the 10-ish tiny ones that go on the legs, which is where I drew the loving line.
Babysitter Super Sleuth fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Dec 13, 2014 |
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Dec 13, 2014 08:31
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Warmachine posted:This gets asked every three pages, but what is a good entry level airbrush setup? You basically need A budget Airbrush Compressor The right hoses and/or adapters to make connections to your compressor and airbrush Something to catch overspray (like a cardboard box or a spray booth) Moisture trap Paint optional: Airbrush paint thinner optional: bottles You also need to figure out whether you want gravity feed or siphon feed. Gravity feed means that you put paint in a cup on top of the brush and the paint drips into the airline by gravity. Siphon feed uses little bottles attached to the bottom of the brush, and it uses air pressure/vacuum to suck paint into the airline. Either one works, and it's all personal preference. The Badger Patriot gets recommended a lot because it's very easy to work with. I use the 155 which is the siphon feed version of the Patriot. I highly recommend either one. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Dec 13, 2014 |
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Dec 13, 2014 13:38
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Revitalized posted:Then why was the gray one suggested over the black one? Just curious! Color separation. The inner frame for the black Rex is a medium chocolate brown, and it just looks off. I wish they kept the inner frame dark gray or something. Warmachine posted:This gets asked every three pages, but what is a good entry level airbrush setup? My backlog is a Kshatriya, and while my work room is too drat cold right now for me to work comfortably, I'd like to do it 'right' once I finish my first Zaku ever, which I'm brush painting. Compressors and wands are expensive though, so I want goons to do my thinking for me. http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbru...+and+compressor This is the one you want. I have the one with the much smaller compressor, which is quieter, but has issues with maintaining constant pressure. You also have to kinda guess at the pressure which you set seeing as it has no gauge. MJP fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Dec 13, 2014 |
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Dec 13, 2014 14:27
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If it has issues maintaining constant pressure you might need to hook it up to a tank https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/iwata-smart-jet-compressor-review
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Dec 13, 2014 15:24
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Ka0 posted:If it has issues maintaining constant pressure you might need to hook it up to a tank Yep. I just use a lil half-gallon tank and leave it running while I work.
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Dec 13, 2014 15:28
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I dropped hints about a compressor equipped with a tank for Christmukkah, so if I don't get one, I'll just buy one.
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Dec 13, 2014 15:51
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