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Forge World guard and more more 'true to scale' compared to their marines. This means they're a lot smaller than regular guard.
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Dec 11, 2014 22:20
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I think the Elysians go even further though - I have some of the Hazardous Environment Cadian bits which are smaller than regular Chadians but still look pretty huge on the Elysian legs.
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Dec 11, 2014 23:02
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ineptmule posted:I think the Elysians go even further though - I have some of the Hazardous Environment Cadian bits which are smaller than regular Chadians but still look pretty huge on the Elysian legs. Thats because the Cadian bits are designed to go on GW plastics. Elysians are Forgeworld through and through. The Death Korps are the same, much smaller.
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Dec 11, 2014 23:15
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Just found out that Mutant got its first release in the US. Kind of excited about that and felt like sharing. What is wrong with me.
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Dec 12, 2014 02:34
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Tasoth posted:Just found out that Mutant got its first release in the US. Kind of excited about that and felt like sharing. It actually took me up to me seeing it mentioned in the DriveThrough RPG that you were talking about Mutant: Year Zero aka the latest release of the Swedish Mutant RPG line. I had no clue what so ever that it was actually getting an English translation for that part. Pity I almost liked the setting in it's predecessor a bit more.
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Dec 12, 2014 03:12
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ineptmule posted:Heroic. Yeah, it is too big. They came from Statuesque, and I'm considering getting their true scale heads instead, which would be nice as there are many more options at that scale. What I do is I collect miniatures with nice headsculpts (female usually) and then recast the head in resin for use in conversions. Reaper is pretty good for this. If you need truescale heads get a bunch of stuff from Hasslefree and recast them. Edit - When I recast I just make a mould of the head and shoulders. Means I can usually get away with a 1-part pour mold.
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Dec 12, 2014 14:59
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Recasting is a whole new rabbit hole for me. I'm sure I'll take the plunge one of these days though...
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Dec 13, 2014 02:56
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 These guys need some errant brush strokes cleaned up and a few pieces highlighted but otherwise are near done. Sprayed them white, then a grey wash (Vallejo Grey wash) then a dry brush of more white, then details. Thinking that I need something red in the front to kind of give it some symmetry with the red stripes on the tails and the side, but I'm also not wanting to over do it. These models have so many details I could spend quite a while painting them still. I also need to build a light box soonish.
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Dec 13, 2014 04:09
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Actually been kind of curious about recasting and molds, as luck would have it. I want to crank out minis for I eventually run Tyranny of Dragons/Rise of Tiamat and I was looking for a suitable Leosin. Some digging showed me this guy and I figured I could use Garryth's head. But I don't want to be left with a headless elf.
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Dec 13, 2014 06:16
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ProfZoom posted:Actually been kind of curious about recasting and molds, as luck would have it. I want to crank out minis for I eventually run Tyranny of Dragons/Rise of Tiamat and I was looking for a suitable Leosin. Some digging showed me this guy and I figured I could use Garryth's head. But I don't want to be left with a headless elf. Get a basic casting starter kit (2-part sillicone and resin). Suspend miniature upside down above a suitable container - I used cut up blisters. Follow instructions as per your casting kit . If you're careful you can just make a mould of the head and neck, mine used to go to mid chest/waist. You may have to cut the mould a little to extract the master miniature, but you should leave the head intact. Tips to avoid air bubbles: Dust the inside of the mould with talcum powder. Use a paperclip as a channel to pour the resin directly into the deepest part of the mould. If you just pour it directly into the top, surface tension can mean the head area won't fill.
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Dec 13, 2014 10:57
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Are there any significant differences between an Iwata silver jet and a sprint jet 850? There's a varying chasm of price differences between those two but for the most part their specs are nearly identical.
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Dec 13, 2014 12:00
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I've been emotionally bribed into starting Warmachine so I have got a mostly-assembled battle-box infront of me: but I really detest the super-bright colors. I am thinking of going for a weathered mid-dark green-grey, and using object-source lighting on the warjacks (fire for grills) and any a green on glowing weapons for attentiopn: so almost a Cryx paintscheme. I was wondering if anyone had any bright ideas for under/base/top/highlight colors? Style-wise something very close to this: http://www.coolminiornot.com/263774?browseid=10823621 Color-scheme more like the armor plates on this: http://www.coolminiornot.com/140634?browseid=10823621
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Dec 14, 2014 15:55
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Are you doing Cryx? "Super bright colors" isn't something I'd say about the default studio scheme.
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Dec 14, 2014 16:13
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Ah, I didn't specify - I've got Khador - bronze and red are pretty bleaugh IMO, especially metallic colors on spikey trim pieces.
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Dec 14, 2014 16:38
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moths posted:Are you doing Cryx? "Super bright colors" isn't something I'd say about the default studio scheme. Any color other than the stuidio one is better. 
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Dec 14, 2014 16:42
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I've seen some pretty cool stuff done with Khador in a Soviet scheme. ie: Forest green with white stenciled markings, and harsh weathering. You basically slap a WW2 Russian armor paintjob on the jacks, and it comes out looking really good. Sometimes people splash red, but that just looks too Christmas for me.
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Dec 14, 2014 17:13
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^ Well, I'm looking at modelling the jacks along AFV-modelling lines : single-color for the whole jack, then using different effects like rust, mud and scraped paint to differentiate bits. The WW2 Russian green is pretty much #00FF00 though: http://s127.photobucket.com/user/szaloga/media/__6_0110_zps892b01c8.jpg.html so I'd be aiming more for a grey-green or grey like so: http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/kama6/media/bingo/Sabkuch/2i7nspd.jpg.html - but I can't figure out what actual paint-pot-colors to use to get it. Those cartoon cryx look ace - if the Khador weren't so INDUSTRIAL-HEARTLAND you could almost imagine an early-90's Golden Daemon pastel-color thing going on.
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Dec 14, 2014 17:32
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There are a couple threads on the PP forums that might be worth looking at (as much as the forums are a cesspool in a lot of ways the painting section has some good inspiration now and then) http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?137364-Green-Khador-Log may be too green for what you're looking for http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?80103-First-Warjack-Khador-Juggernaut this one is dark grey. He doesn't say which color specifically he uses for his base but maybe Eshin Grey? I use that on my Khador jacks with the Nuln Oil or an old Undercoat Black for the shading and Codex Grey for highlights.
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Dec 14, 2014 17:56
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Those are really great links, thanks - the first is what I was more or less aiming for (which are VMC olive grey/drab) - but now that silly Cryx bonejack has got me all in a fuddle about using really bright, silly colors - somewhere between heraldry and harlequin:  
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Dec 14, 2014 18:04
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Southern Heel posted:The WW2 Russian green is pretty much #00FF00 though I'd been using the Krylon Fusion "Deep Forest Green" spray to prime / paint my Russian armor. It was a pretty great match to stuff like this:  But but apparently krylon no longer produces that color.  Really there's no "wrong green" since production was spread across many different factories and Soviet-era standardization was something of a joke.
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Dec 14, 2014 18:40
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Numlock posted:
You don't happen to have a Space Marine or something like that you could put next to that big ship for scale reference do you? I may or may not be making A Thing using Firestorm Armada ships but I kinda need to know how large the larger ships are before I commit the money to it.
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Dec 14, 2014 18:55
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FoulWeatherFriend posted:You don't happen to have a Space Marine or something like that you could put next to that big ship for scale reference do you? I may or may not be making A Thing using Firestorm Armada ships but I kinda need to know how large the larger ships are before I commit the money to it. Dire Avenger good enough?  Same frigate, different but similarly sized battleship, and a cruiser in the middle
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Dec 14, 2014 19:05
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Southern Heel posted:Those are really great links, thanks - the first is what I was more or less aiming for (which are VMC olive grey/drab) - but now that silly Cryx bonejack has got me all in a fuddle about using really bright, silly colors - somewhere between heraldry and harlequin: This dude is seriously 
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Dec 14, 2014 19:48
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moths posted:I'd been using the Krylon Fusion "Deep Forest Green" spray to prime / paint my Russian armor. It was a pretty great match to stuff like this: That's not really the correct Soviet green colour (7BO), that was more like this.  However, this was the colour applied at the factory (the recipe was the same for every factory). In the field, things were a bit different. If you get paint from the factory on time, that's great, but that was the exception rather than the rule. I have quite a few Soviet tank painting instructions, and one of them offers field-expedient alternatives to getting "good enough" looking paint from brick dust and ground up twigs and stuff like that.
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Dec 14, 2014 19:59
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That's one happy BT tank 
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Dec 14, 2014 20:07
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NTRabbit posted:Dire Avenger good enough? The Dire Avenger is perfect, but I was hoping to see how think it is. The Thing I might be doing is a solid resin table with spaceships in it, so I don't want it to be too thick to keep weight down. It's looking like the biggest ships are too thick anyway, which sucks.
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Dec 14, 2014 21:25
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Southern Heel posted:Those are really great links, thanks - the first is what I was more or less aiming for (which are VMC olive grey/drab) - but now that silly Cryx bonejack has got me all in a fuddle about using really bright, silly colors - somewhere between heraldry and harlequin:    
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Dec 14, 2014 22:34
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FoulWeatherFriend posted:You don't happen to have a Space Marine or something like that you could put next to that big ship for scale reference do you? I may or may not be making A Thing using Firestorm Armada ships but I kinda need to know how large the larger ships are before I commit the money to it. For what its worth, I assume that's a 1" grid it's on
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Dec 14, 2014 22:51
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I've got a fairly random question. I just started painting some Warhammer Dark Elves, and could anyone tell me what color recipe/process they use to make the gold accented gear - like for example on the helmet crest or shield icon of the regular spear dudes. I would have even considered buying one of their painting guides, but I don't own an iPad or a Mac. Im sure its probably something needlessly complex, so ill likely end up using a mix of brown and metallic gold with a wash but I was curious.
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Dec 15, 2014 04:08
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Lakedaimon posted:I've got a fairly random question. I just started painting some Warhammer Dark Elves, and could anyone tell me what color recipe/process they use to make the gold accented gear - like for example on the helmet crest or shield icon of the regular spear dudes. I would have even considered buying one of their painting guides, but I don't own an iPad or a Mac. Im sure its probably something needlessly complex, so ill likely end up using a mix of brown and metallic gold with a wash but I was curious. Not sure if it is the same as the Dark Elves, but: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9HzqHVg1uE at 10 minutes has some good gold.
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Dec 15, 2014 04:31
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scorched brown base, auric gold layer, wash with sepia, layer auric, start mixing in runefang silver for highlights.
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Dec 15, 2014 04:40
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After reading the name- sweet space wolf dreadnought
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Dec 15, 2014 05:07
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FoulWeatherFriend posted:The Dire Avenger is perfect, but I was hoping to see how think it is. The Thing I might be doing is a solid resin table with spaceships in it, so I don't want it to be too thick to keep weight down. It's looking like the biggest ships are too thick anyway, which sucks. That Battleship is a little over 1 and 1/8th inches thick. It is by no means the thickest one ether. Firestorm Armada ships are hilariously huge.
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Dec 15, 2014 05:30
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Is it Sunday? Did I stay up until almost 3 AM to finish my Shadowsword even though I have work in the morning? Yup. This thing is loving awesome. Huge, too.     Even Russes look like babies next to this thing!  I'm going to have a lot of fun blowing up my friends' titans at our huge Apoc game in January.
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Dec 15, 2014 08:52
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No combat tits, 3/10, feel ashamed.
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Dec 15, 2014 11:09
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Post 9-11 User posted:No combat tits, 3/10, feel ashamed. I know. I am a failure.
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Dec 15, 2014 11:45
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I recently bought myself a Tyranid Hive Tyrant as a sort of Christmas/New Year's project to paint, and now I'm wondering how sturdy the whole thing is if modeled as a flying version, and whether it would need some additional support. It just seems really fragile to only have the tail as the only thing attaching the big-rear end monster to its base. Am I just being overly cautious or is it as fragile as it seems?
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Dec 15, 2014 12:10
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If anyone else is like me and was using cheap brushes while learning but wants to upgrade to a higher quality brush without going to a full on Windsor and Newton or other very expensive single brush that you may ruin I would so far be very happy to recommend the Games and Gears brushes here http://museonstore.com/collections/hobby-supplies . Every now and then I still gently caress up a brush, which is easy with cheap and lovely brushes, but needed to get something better so tried these out as they're Kolinsky sable. Only a few days in but so far the points are great, they hold that point amazingly, and they just overall work way better than any GW Brush or other brush I've gotten from like hobby lobby. While I'm sure I'll eventually upgrade to the Windsor and Newton Kolinsky brushes in the future as I continue to advance my skills I so far think these are great stepping stone brushes the may be able to help others that are in the same boat I was.
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Dec 15, 2014 12:33
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ineptmule posted:I know. I am a failure. Mistakes Into Miracles. 
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Dec 15, 2014 13:07
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ineptmule posted:I'm really liking the effect. I also think the Elysian lasguns look awesomely different and high-tech which definitely fits for the Van Saar. Here's my VS test model: This really just makes me want to start playing XCOM again.
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Dec 15, 2014 13:45
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