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Human Tornada posted:My under the sink valves turn the correct way, but clockwise is on for the knobs. It's normal for me now but when I moved in it took some getting used to. Anyways thanks for the reply. Hmm, sounds like the usual Delta cartridges that a lot of makers use now. If you turn off their supplies and take off their handles, you can turn the cartridges around 180 degrees, so they can go either way if you want.
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Dec 13, 2014 05:10
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King of Gulps posted:Pretty much the definition of whose side it is is whether it is spinning your meter or not, I thought? Like, what's your motivation to fix it honestly? I dunno if you've already been told this, but if you're got polybutylene you really should just rent a trencher and lay in a whole new main. That stuff is crap. That said, if it's 18" deep you SHOULD be able to hear it pretty clearly @1gpm. Maybe the line doesn't run the way the dude thinks it does?
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Dec 15, 2014 02:11
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Still having problems with the tank leaking. I'm so infuriated at this garbage Gerber toilet that I'm right on the edge of just spending a couple hundred dollars buying a new toilet.
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Dec 15, 2014 02:49
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canyoneer posted:Still having problems with the tank leaking. I'm so infuriated at this garbage Gerber toilet that I'm right on the edge of just spending a couple hundred dollars buying a new toilet. If you're gonna spend a couple hundred and it's your place I'd recommend going to a toto drake. I've installed maybe a thousand of the Toto Drake 1 (mostly the eco model) and have only had literally 2 complaints. Great toilet, should be able to get one out the door for around 300.
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Dec 15, 2014 06:30
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Jadunk posted:If you're gonna spend a couple hundred and it's your place I'd recommend going to a toto drake. I've installed maybe a thousand of the Toto Drake 1 (mostly the eco model) and have only had literally 2 complaints. Great toilet, should be able to get one out the door for around 300.
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Dec 15, 2014 06:44
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Nitrox posted:What makes it better to justify the price? Better than $90-250 toilets from the big box hardware store. Flush power, lack of QC issues, less maintenance required.
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Dec 15, 2014 09:15
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I have 18" wide cabinets. Am I stupid to get an 18" wide dishwasher, to avoid having to gently caress up not one but two cabinets and drawers? The Bosch 500 18" model I want has good reviews and everything, but I don't know if I'm really stepping in it long term. I live alone, have a girlfriend who may move in eventually, and don't have kids or plan on them especially soon. I currently hand wash everything.
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Dec 15, 2014 09:43
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I like turtles posted:I have 18" wide cabinets. Am I stupid to get an 18" wide dishwasher, to avoid having to gently caress up not one but two cabinets and drawers? The Bosch 500 18" model I want has good reviews and everything, but I don't know if I'm really stepping in it long term. My house has an 18" because the kitchen is tiny. Do you even have enough cabinet space to be able to store everything you need if you got a 24" dishwasher?
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Dec 15, 2014 20:53
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King of Gulps posted:Pretty much the definition of whose side it is is whether it is spinning your meter or not, I thought? Like, what's your motivation to fix it honestly?
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Dec 16, 2014 03:14
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WeaselWeaz posted:My house has an 18" because the kitchen is tiny. Do you even have enough cabinet space to be able to store everything you need if you got a 24" dishwasher? It's actually a decent sized kitchen (certainly not big though), I'm just loath to give up more than one cabinet+drawer because they chose 18" cabinet width. I could make one of those half assed partial cabinet doors but those look universally terrible in my experience, and I'd not be able to do that with the drawer really. I wouldn't be losing space I'm using if I used one cabinet, or even if I gave up two cabinets, but I'm mostly just feeling fussy about it at this point. I like turtles fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Dec 16, 2014 |
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Dec 16, 2014 05:55
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I like turtles posted:I have 18" wide cabinets. Am I stupid to get an 18" wide dishwasher, to avoid having to gently caress up not one but two cabinets and drawers? The Bosch 500 18" model I want has good reviews and everything, but I don't know if I'm really stepping in it long term.
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Dec 20, 2014 17:54
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Our bathroom shower has an American Standard Hampton bath/shower faucet: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/shower-faucets/hampton-3-handle-bath-shower-faucet/ We are getting very little flow (1 Gal/min) out of the bath faucet and only a dribble from the showerhead. We disassembled the faucet and with the cartridge removed we are getting lots of flow. The whole shebang is new. How do we fix this? I found a video where a guy with the exact same problem ordered a new rough in valve, ironically he replaced his unknown brand with an A.S. Hampton, the same product we are having trouble with.
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Dec 21, 2014 23:26
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wormil posted:Our bathroom shower has an American Standard Hampton bath/shower faucet: You probably have some flecks of junk in the diverter cartridge. Try cleaning it out.
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Dec 22, 2014 13:33
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:You probably have some flecks of junk in the diverter cartridge. Try cleaning it out. I'll try that and if it doesn't help I'll call American Standard and see what they say. If it isn't the diverter then the rough in valve has to be defective. edit; diverter wasn't clogged but removing and reinstalling fixed whatever was causing the problem. Unfortunately now it leaks. There is a rubber grommet that slipped off the brass and doesn't want to stay on. Maybe that it is getting moved out of place or I may not have it seated deep enough. It requires a 14mm very deep socket or maybe some specialist wrench I don't have so I'm using a regular 14mm socket and turning that with pliers. Edit2: That diverter cartridge is hosed, I'm buying a new one. wormil fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Dec 22, 2014 |
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Dec 22, 2014 18:28
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I want to install a shiny, new faucet on an old sink. But here's what the current set-up looks like: No shut-off valves! So if I want to disconnect the water supply lines, I'll need to shut off the entire house's water supply. Is there any way to easily add some shut-off valves so I won't have to shut off the water supply just to do some simple maintenance/fix-ups, like this? melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Dec 26, 2014 |
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Dec 26, 2014 18:29
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melon cat posted:I want to install a shiny, new faucet on an old sink. But here's what the current set-up looks like: Yes. When you turn off the water cut the lines and add in some quarter turn valves. Easy peasy
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Dec 27, 2014 00:24
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Yes. When you turn off the water cut the lines and add in some quarter turn valves. Easy peasy
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Dec 27, 2014 01:09
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melon cat posted:Good to hear that it's a pretty simple job. I assume that I'll need to use a compression nut plus a quarter-turn straight valve like this one. Does that sound about right, or am I missing something? And do I need to cut off any old piping, or can I just twist the new stop valve on top of the existing fixture? Get one you sweat on. YouTube it. It is easy. Make one cut and install it inline.
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Dec 27, 2014 04:14
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There's an even easier solution. Get a pair of these and screw them onto the existing 3/8" compression fittings.
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Dec 28, 2014 00:59
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I've spent the last three days gutting part of my grandparents home and removing that awful "grey pipe" (Polybutylene) and replacing it with PEX. This stuff has leaked so many times over the year that I am totally gutting the rooms all the way to the sub floor (particleboard subfloors, yay) and rebuilding. If I could find the guys that invented Polybutylene plumbing I would probably beat them within an inch of their life with what I've pulled out of this place. What a miserable bunch of crap to install in a home. Now trying to determine if I want to re-do some of the stuff that is close by with a home run style system to eliminate all the joints from tee's for the master bath, washer and kitchen area. What a miserable time.
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Dec 30, 2014 17:08
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I'm going to be installing a new water heater to replace a failed water heater shortly. I'm going to end up with two tanks in serial (one will be a buffer tank for a geothermal desuperheater). Given my recent experience, I'd like to hook up bypasses so that if either one of the two tanks fails, it's not an emergency and I can just rely on the other for hot water. Is there a better (or just easier) way to plumb that than half a dozen ball valves?
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Dec 30, 2014 21:48
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I've spent the last three days gutting part of my grandparents home and removing that awful "grey pipe" (Polybutylene) and replacing it with PEX. This stuff has leaked so many times over the year that I am totally gutting the rooms all the way to the sub floor (particleboard subfloors, yay) and rebuilding. If I could find the guys that invented Polybutylene plumbing I would probably beat them within an inch of their life with what I've pulled out of this place. What a miserable bunch of crap to install in a home. Now trying to determine if I want to re-do some of the stuff that is close by with a home run style system to eliminate all the joints from tee's for the master bath, washer and kitchen area. A polybutylene hot water pipe broke at our house two days before Christmas. Unfortunately it goes to the addition which is on a slab so have to tear up the floor to replace it. I installed a valve temporarily until I get it done. I'm thinking cpvc will be cheaper and easier than pex?
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Dec 30, 2014 21:57
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Zhentar posted:I'm going to be installing a new water heater to replace a failed water heater shortly. I'm going to end up with two tanks in serial (one will be a buffer tank for a geothermal desuperheater). Given my recent experience, I'd like to hook up bypasses so that if either one of the two tanks fails, it's not an emergency and I can just rely on the other for hot water. Is there a better (or just easier) way to plumb that than half a dozen ball valves? Redundancy is usually done with devices in parallel, not serial.
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Dec 30, 2014 22:10
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kid sinister posted:Redundancy is usually done with devices in parallel, not serial. As far as I'm aware though, it doesn't really work with water heaters because of the pressure. One water heater by necessity gets more usage than the other, but a failed water heater (with 2 in series) becomes a water heater with half the capacity rather than a double-capacity heater with half the heat.
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Dec 30, 2014 22:14
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wormil posted:A polybutylene hot water pipe broke at our house two days before Christmas. Unfortunately it goes to the addition which is on a slab so have to tear up the floor to replace it. I installed a valve temporarily until I get it done. I'm thinking cpvc will be cheaper and easier than pex? PEX is dead simple to install and I think C-PVC still requires cements to be used to secure the connections. Outside of the cost associated with buying the tools, it is pretty inexpensive as well. The crimp tool we bought from Lowes was $60, and it crimps copper fittings on 1/2 and 3/4 connections. I feel for you so much in that situation .. this has been a nightmare (the demolition and stuff), but at least it is being done and without leaks. I would have loved to have done a home run type of system with a manifold but their place is small and doesn't require much. I hate to say it but with that one burst .. I feel you will probably have to deal with much more down the road. 
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Dec 30, 2014 22:52
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My buffer tank can't buffer if they aren't in serial, so it doesn't really matter which is better for redundancy.
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Dec 30, 2014 23:51
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mAlfunkti0n posted:PEX is dead simple to install and I think C-PVC still requires cements to be used to secure the connections. Outside of the cost associated with buying the tools, it is pretty inexpensive as well. The crimp tool we bought from Lowes was $60, and it crimps copper fittings on 1/2 and 3/4 connections. I feel for you so much in that situation .. this has been a nightmare (the demolition and stuff), but at least it is being done and without leaks. I would have loved to have done a home run type of system with a manifold but their place is small and doesn't require much. I hate to say it but with that one burst .. I feel you will probably have to deal with much more down the road. Luckily that is the only polyb in the house so I'm going to replace it all at once. It feeds sink, shower, toilet, and washing machine.
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Dec 31, 2014 00:25
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wormil posted:Luckily that is the only polyb in the house so I'm going to replace it all at once. It feeds sink, shower, toilet, and washing machine. Bullet dodged then, gooooood goooood goood!
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Dec 31, 2014 03:40
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Dishwasher help? I have a Bosch SHU3032UC/U12 dishwasher. On December 20th we loaded the dishwasher and started it and went to bed. Next morning we left at 4am to visit my husband's family in another province. When we came back on Sunday I opened it to find it half full of moldy water and dishes. I messed around with it a bit, playing with the cycles. It mostly drained out (there's a puddle left in the filter) but it cycles normally, save that no water pumps in. A little internet research told me it was probably the inlet valve, so I tracked down the part and replaced it today. It still doesn't work. I tried to locate the float, but I can't find it and I'm wondering if I have to disassemble and pull out the dishwasher to find it. Then I'm worried it might be the control panel. I just noticed that the power light just above the start button isn't turning on, and it flashes red when I release the door handle. Does anyone have any advice? I just paid a $400 vet bill before we left, and then a $500 dollar car bill (literally on the way to the parts shop my car died), so if I can, I'd rather do this myself. I can get the control panel, and I can pull the dishwasher out and replace the float, but I'm not sure what to check now.
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Dec 31, 2014 04:37
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Find the service manual for your dishwasher model and find out what that flashing light means.
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Dec 31, 2014 04:41
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Does not say in the manual. It gives really simple troubleshooting tips like, check for clogs if it's not draining!
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Dec 31, 2014 05:17
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Echeveria posted:Does not say in the manual. It gives really simple troubleshooting tips like, check for clogs if it's not draining! SERVICE manual, not the owner's manual. They are a treasure trove of diagnostic tests. You should be able to find it online by searching on the model number.
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Dec 31, 2014 17:58
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Motronic posted:SERVICE manual, not the owner's manual. They are a treasure trove of diagnostic tests. Yep. Service manuals are the bee's knees. They also usually come with schematics, diagrams and instructions for most repairs. They're great for all kinds of appliances, not just dishwashers. Google the make and model along with "service manual".
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Dec 31, 2014 19:59
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So I was bitching to my co-worker about how it takes forever to get hot water to our master bathroom and he suggested a hot water recirculating pump. http://www.nachi.org/hot-water-recirculation-systems.htm How I didn't know these things existed in beyond me, but this is the exact solution to this problem for me. Does anyone have any recommendations for a pump system? I am thinking of going to dedicated loop route and adding a hot water return home run with PEX (said co-worker has experience and will help), as opposed to those ones they sell at home depot that use the cold water line as a return with some sort of valve under the sink.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:09
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Definitely install a dedicated loop system if it's feasible to run the return piping, insulate your pipes if and where possible, and make sure you buy a system that is thermostatically controlled: no reason to run the circulation pump all the time. Another easy-to-add feature is a simple timer to control when the thermostatically controlled pump will run (you probably don't need it between 12 AM and 5 AM, for example).
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Dec 31, 2014 21:41
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Motronic posted:SERVICE manual, not the owner's manual. They are a treasure trove of diagnostic tests. I realized that after I posted, then spent an hour searching for the service manual. All I could find were schematics of the parts, nothing about error codes. The Bosch website provides service manuals but my model number was not available. SO HELPFUL THANKS BOSCH. I'll keep looking tomorrow, and I'll disconnect the drat thing and pull it out and check the float and float switch. I really need a voltmeter.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:02
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Echeveria posted:I realized that after I posted, then spent an hour searching for the service manual. All I could find were schematics of the parts, nothing about error codes. The Bosch website provides service manuals but my model number was not available. SO HELPFUL THANKS BOSCH. I'll keep looking tomorrow, and I'll disconnect the drat thing and pull it out and check the float and float switch. I really need a voltmeter. A voltmeter would be very helpful and don't discount looking at the service manuals from similar models - very often the controls (and how to put them into diagnostic modes to check portions of the cycle) will be the same.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:03
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Hot water recirculation systems always feel like a wasteful workaround for poorly designed plumbing systems to me. If the hot water doesn't have to go through long runs of large pipes to get to the fixtures, it won't take long to warm up. Though if you're in a heating dominated climate, and your pipes are within your home's thermal envelope, it's not really that wasteful.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:14
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Motronic posted:Definitely install a dedicated loop system if it's feasible to run the return piping, insulate your pipes if and where possible, and make sure you buy a system that is thermostatically controlled: no reason to run the circulation pump all the time. Another easy-to-add feature is a simple timer to control when the thermostatically controlled pump will run (you probably don't need it between 12 AM and 5 AM, for example). Awesome. Yeah, the pipes are currently uninsulated copper so insulating them is on my list of things to do anyway. Adding a return run shouldn't be a problem (one level with crawlspace). I am planning to basically just follow this image:  Anything that is missing? And brand recommendations for a pump?
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Dec 31, 2014 23:31
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Zhentar posted:Hot water recirculation systems always feel like a wasteful workaround for poorly designed plumbing systems to me. If the hot water doesn't have to go through long runs of large pipes to get to the fixtures, it won't take long to warm up. Though if you're in a heating dominated climate, and your pipes are within your home's thermal envelope, it's not really that wasteful. More wasteful with heating energy, sure, but it saves lots of clean, treated drinking water from going straight down the drain unnecessarily waiting for the hot water to flow.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:33
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