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Yeah I've learned my lessons on generic batteries, the KTM 690 series are hard on them too. Yuasa or nothing.
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Dec 15, 2014 09:56
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HotCanadianChick posted:Or drat near every Toyota. They love hiding them behind the exhaust manifold or some other inaccessible spot.  The 88 Corolla I owned 10 years ago had the oil filter in the nook behind the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine, so it was nearly impossible to get at unless you grew an extra elbow.
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Dec 15, 2014 11:47
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My bothers duke 690 likes to eat batteries, as in shake so much that it wears deep groves into the plastic on the battery. He'll pad his next battery he'll get in the spring some on the wear spots to hopefully prevent it. It also eats the tomtom rider gps+holder. Even the pretty small play in between the a new gps and holder wears away on the both parts due to the vibrations.
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Dec 15, 2014 15:46
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M42 posted:Xpostin! Z3n posted:Yes, all Yuasas are solid. mainks posted:Will my 01 SV650's battery explode if I leave it in there over winter? Unheated garage (see: dilapidated shed) in Iowa. In my experience with batteries at the shop, all batteries are poo poo. Standard, AGM, gel, Yuasa, Wal-Mart, lithium. They all die frequently. The only thing that makes a battery last a long time is if you baby it. Put it on a tender any time you're not using the bike. Like, nearly every night. Especially in the winter. If it does die out, replace it with the cheapest one to save money and just keep it on a tender after that.
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Dec 15, 2014 16:49
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:In my experience with batteries at the shop, all batteries are poo poo. "Hi can you take a look at my battery, it seems to be working perfectly?"
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Dec 15, 2014 17:02
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Slavvy posted:Every time this poo poo comes up my eyes threaten to roll out the back of my head because removing oil filters on motorbikes simply isn't that difficult. It just isn't. Try working on a car. The hardest part is not getting oil everywhere, stupid USD oil filter.
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Dec 15, 2014 17:34
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clutchpuck posted:The hardest part is not getting oil everywhere, stupid USD oil filter. Pop a hole in the bottom with a punch before you remove it if it bothers you that much. 
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Dec 15, 2014 17:38
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It doesn't, I was mostly being ironic about how easy a job it is. But that is a good call.
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Dec 15, 2014 18:15
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BlackMK4 posted:Pop a hole in the bottom with a punch before you remove it if it bothers you that much.  on the Ninja 650 that makes amazing sense since otherwise i need to put a strip of foil over the exhaust header to keep the oil from spilling over it. Definitely trying this next time.
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Dec 15, 2014 18:31
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:In my experience with batteries at the shop, all batteries are poo poo. Standard, AGM, gel, Yuasa, Wal-Mart, lithium. They all die frequently. The only thing that makes a battery last a long time is if you baby it. Put it on a tender any time you're not using the bike. Like, nearly every night. Especially in the winter. If it does die out, replace it with the cheapest one to save money and just keep it on a tender after that. Is it a climate thing or do you guys just get really poo poo batteries? I've never had a battery gently caress out except for when the bike had a faulty charging system. I haven't started my bike for over a month and will probably only get to start it a month from now and I guarantee that it will crank over and fire perfectly; I haven't even disconnected the battery.
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Dec 15, 2014 18:55
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The heat in the southwest of the US fucks batteries.
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Dec 15, 2014 18:59
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My battery was fine until after I rode it to Sturgis in 110 degree heat. It pooped out the next winter, but I think it was the 7-year-old original.
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Dec 15, 2014 19:02
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Slavvy posted:Is it a climate thing or do you guys just get really poo poo batteries? I've never had a battery gently caress out except for when the bike had a faulty charging system. I haven't started my bike for over a month and will probably only get to start it a month from now and I guarantee that it will crank over and fire perfectly; I haven't even disconnected the battery. My own bike batteries last a fairly long time, and they span a range of lovely and non lovely brands. I just put them on a tender almost all the drat time, so I assume that's the reason why. The one bike I have that ate batteries a lot was my old BMW with a 6v batt. For a long time I didn't have a 6v tender. It would eat its battery after a few months. But I never really cared much because it didn't need a working battery to run.
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Dec 15, 2014 21:53
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Usually 1-2 plate batteries a year for me in the desert. AGM/lithium ones hold up muuuuch better.
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Dec 15, 2014 22:39
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I expect to replace my batteries every other year in my seasonal things like motorcycles, tractors, or snowmobiles etc. I am on my third car battery in 5 years as well but my other vehicles fare better. Winter is a frigid bitch and small batteries do not take extended periods of sub zero temps well. Obviously the smart thing is to take the batteries inside and put them on a tender but it turns out money grows on trees so I just buy new ones.
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Dec 16, 2014 12:56
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XYLOPAGUS posted:New bike problem emerged recently: It sounds and feels like it's running on 3 cylinders (bit of a lope at idle too). Oddly, this started after changing the main jets, but I'm 99% positive that has nothing to do with it. Update: replaced coils, swapped the last main jet, and changed the oil. No longer sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders! I was a bit dumbfounded that there's no vacuum lines from the carbs now that I'm running openside air filters.
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Dec 16, 2014 19:55
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So, my ninja 250 for some reason didn't want to start last night. I would hit the starter and nothing would happen, no crank, nothing. after about 2 minutes of messing with stuff, checking the kill switch, turning the key a few times, pulling the clutch in and making sure it was in neutral. It decided to start after i was just sitting there thinking what might be the issue and hitting the starter one last time. I'm guessing maybe there is a loose wire or something, any ideas where I should start looking?
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Dec 16, 2014 19:57
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Debugario posted:So, my ninja 250 for some reason didn't want to start last night. I would hit the starter and nothing would happen, no crank, nothing. Nothing useful to add, but that happened to me a couple times on my '10 ninja 250 as well. Only twice in the 8000 miles I put on it, though.
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Dec 16, 2014 20:12
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Bike probably thought it was in gear with the kickstand down. If it happens again, try like clutch disengaged and progressively add in like kickstand up and in gear until either it works or nothing works and let us know.
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Dec 16, 2014 20:38
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My kill switch acts up occasionally where it is off even when it's on. Switching it back and forth a few times gets things normal again.
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Dec 16, 2014 23:09
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Bugdrvr posted:My kill switch acts up occasionally where it is off even when it's on. Switching it back and forth a few times gets things normal again. This must be a rollicking good time when you're actually riding the bike. I've found that leaving pretty much any bike outside while it's raining makes the switches start to play up. Considering their total lack of waterproofing this makes sense.
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Dec 17, 2014 00:22
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Update: replaced coils, swapped the last main jet, and changed the oil. No longer sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders! I was a bit dumbfounded that there's no vacuum lines from the carbs now that I'm running openside air filters. I'm betting the coils had nothing to do with it running poorly now that I think about it. The rule is always go back to what you hosed with last. Pretttty sure the carbs were just incredibly out of sync.
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Dec 17, 2014 13:36
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Hey guys, I have a stupid motorbike question and the https://www.biekwiki.com website is down. I did my MSF class a while ago, and I had a motorcycle license. I lost it when I moved out of state but I can get it back with just a trip to the DMV. I rode a Yamaha Venture for a while but that thing was a tank and wasn't fun to drive at under 55. I'm looking for something lightweight for city driving, surface streets only, definitely <500cc. I'm thinking like a small enduro or a big scooter. Is there any reason one would be more practical than the other? I'm pretty handy at fixing things, so whichever is easier to service myself is a plus.
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Dec 17, 2014 19:50
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WR250x?
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Dec 17, 2014 19:53
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BlackMK4 posted:WR250x? That would be rad, but I'm looking for something cheapy money, used, most-likely air cooled. Purely utilitarian.
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Dec 17, 2014 19:56
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^^ DRZ400SM or KLR650. You could definitely handle either. So my bike needs a rear tire and fork seals. For the rear I'm considering the Pilot Road 4 because I love(d) my PR3s and got nearly 10k out of a rear, which is goddamned impressive. For the fork seals, I have a few options: 1. Buy pitbull triple clamp and rear stands, parts, and rebuild myself, again, this time not doing dumb wheelies when my forks aren't clean. ($400? + $120 from my failed rebuild last time) 2. Take to shop and spend ~300(?) Thoughts?
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Dec 17, 2014 19:59
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Comedy "Kawasaki eliminator" suggestion.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:02
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posh spaz posted:That would be rad, but I'm looking for something cheapy money, used, most-likely air cooled. Purely utilitarian. Suzuki Savage 650, DR650, KLR650, Blast.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:05
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nitrogen posted:Comedy "Kawasaki eliminator" suggestion. What's wrong with the eliminators? Thanks for the advice guys. I saw a blast on CL the other day for like $1500, which is about as much as I want to spend.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:08
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posh spaz posted:What's wrong with the eliminators? I personally find them too slow and lacking in power to be safe for anything except for MSF courses. Other than that, there's nothing wrong with them.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:10
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nitrogen posted:I personally find them too slow and lacking in power to be safe for anything except for MSF courses. Hmm ok. So what would a 650 do for me that a 250 can't? Seriously I don't know anything about bikes. Thanks for humoring me. I've only ever ridden like 4 motorbikes in my life. The dirt bike at the MSF course, my friend's MB50, my other friend's Honda 450, and the stupid Venture I got for free. I honestly couldn't tell a huge difference between the MB50 and the 450, but that was just riding around town, I don't think I got over 40mph on either. posh spaz fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Dec 17, 2014 |
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Dec 17, 2014 20:13
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Armchair Calvinist posted:^^ DRZ400SM or KLR650. You could definitely handle either. You can get away without a front stand - just figure out where you can put jackstands under the bike to keep the front off the ground. If you are leery of doing it yourself I'd pull the fork tube yourself using a cheap rearstand and something to keep the front off the ground and take them to a shop. A local shop here charged me like $120 for fork rebuilds before I bought the tools.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:14
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posh spaz posted:Hmm ok. So what would a 650 do for me that a 250 can't? For what you're trying to get, and how much you want to pay, 650cc will at least expand your options.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:20
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posh spaz posted:Hmm ok. So what would a 650 do for me that a 250 can't? Not all 250s are alike; some of them, like the Ninja 250 or possibly the CBR250 have a decent amount of power, and a zippy and quick and can cruise at 80 mph and reach a top speed (just, just barely) north of 100. Some of them may be underpowered or jammed into a beginner's cruiser chassis or both. But in general terms, depending on the engine, a 650 will get you higher speeds, better acceleration and more comfortable (quieter and less vibrate-y) cruising at highway speeds.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:20
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BlackMK4 posted:You can get away without a front stand - just figure out where you can put jackstands under the bike to keep the front off the ground. This is the correct option. Save the headache of seal replacement (and possibility of nicking the tube) bring the tubes to a shop. If you don't have a stand in whatever configuration, you could also get away with putting the bike on the sidestand and jamming a reasonably sized 2x4 between a hard part and the ground on the right side of the bike like a tripod. Have another person angle the bike on the sidestand stand to the clear the front wheel before jamming a wood in there though. Also, seals are one of those once and never again things, so try not to spend on equipment just because you "might need them in the future".
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Dec 17, 2014 22:49
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posh spaz posted:Hmm ok. So what would a 650 do for me that a 250 can't? I should have specified, the eliminator I meant was the 125: http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2009-kawasaki-eliminator-125-ar72935.html It's actually a pretty good fit for what you SAY you want, but the problem with those is that they leave you no room to grow up or out.
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Dec 17, 2014 23:05
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KARMA! posted:Also, seals are one of those once and never again things, so try not to spend on equipment just because you "might need them in the future".
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Dec 17, 2014 23:13
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KARMA! posted:This is the correct option. Save the headache of seal replacement (and possibility of nicking the tube) bring the tubes to a shop. If you don't have a stand in whatever configuration, you could also get away with putting the bike on the sidestand and jamming a reasonably sized 2x4 between a hard part and the ground on the right side of the bike like a tripod. Have another person angle the bike on the sidestand stand to the clear the front wheel before jamming a wood in there though. I've done fork seals four times on my own bikes and a couple of mates' ones too. Tools are always worth having.
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Dec 18, 2014 00:23
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BlackMK4 posted:You can get away without a front stand - just figure out where you can put jackstands under the bike to keep the front off the ground. Thanks for this-- sounds like a good middle ground. I think I'll give dropping the forks a shot. 
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Dec 18, 2014 00:30
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Fork seals are a pain in the rear end even with the right tools and easy to gently caress up. Dropping the forks and taking them to a shop is a sensible idea.
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Dec 18, 2014 02:23
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