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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:I got this one. Used the steak knives I sharpened with it last night and they cut through rib eye like it was tenderloin. Very pleased with the result and a lot easier than the spyderco sharp maker. I got this for myself because of your post. Couldn't sleep last night so I finally used it on all my knives. It was a little intimidating at first but once you figure it out the first time a lightbulb goes off in your head and it's super easy afterwards. Why did I even bother with pull-through sharpeners and wetstones. My knives feel like the Green Destiny now. Steve Yun fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Dec 4, 2014 |
# ? Dec 4, 2014 22:50 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 14:41 |
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:No differences besides the handles on the ones in the first link, on a side note: gently caress all metal handles. Thanks for the response! Why are all metal handles a bad thing though? I'll have to look into Konosuke, though they've stopped taking internet orders. Guess I'll have to find a distributor.
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# ? Dec 5, 2014 00:40 |
Uber Kosh posted:Thanks for the response! Why are all metal handles a bad thing though? I don't like metal handles because they tend to make the knife handle heavy and because they tend to get slippery when wet, I want a secure grip especially when doing things like peeling or other paring knife work. For Konosuke knives the Fujiyama series are really nice if you don't mind reactive steel and the Ginsan series are very nice if you want stainless steel but are very thin and will feel delicate until you grow into them.
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# ? Dec 5, 2014 01:53 |
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Very nice thread, knife-loving goons, thank you. I picked up a vintage Japanese set on a craiglist swap whim a few weeks back, don't know if any of the Japanese-knife knowers would have heard of these...not much at all on the Net. a bit pretentious? Sure, hell, why not. Nice? Well, in my ignorant opinion, yes very. I've gotten a Shapton #4000 along with my old woodworker whetstone, and gotten a nice edge on them. My wife and I (mainly her, she's good) like to cook, we've never thought to get anything decent in the way of cutlery really...so trading a vintage Japanese guitar for them felt good. If anyone knows anything about these knives, please share.
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# ? Dec 9, 2014 02:09 |
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I might be getting a nice knife as a Christmas gift, and I'm wondering if anybody has used MAC's Professional 9.5" chef's knife, as seen here. I can't find much about it online, but people seem to describe these as good workhorse knives, which appeals to me. If this isn't a good use of $185, I'm open to suggestions. It doesn't seem like I'd want an ultra-thin gyuto, as I often smash garlic with the flat of the blade, and it doesn't seem like really thin blades would stand up to that sort of use. I don't really care about cosmetics so long as the edge is good.
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# ? Dec 20, 2014 07:40 |
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TheJeffers posted:I might be getting a nice knife as a Christmas gift, and I'm wondering if anybody has used MAC's Professional 9.5" chef's knife, as seen here. I can't find much about it online, but people seem to describe these as good workhorse knives, which appeals to me. I use my moritaka to smash garlic all the time. They're not as fragile on the sides as you think, its just the edge that you need to worry about. MACs are nice though, Thomas Keller uses them. I think if I was going to go stainless I would either go cheaper in the tojiro dp line or go with a powdered tool steel like some of the miyabis. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Dec 20, 2014 |
# ? Dec 20, 2014 07:51 |
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TheJeffers posted:I might be getting a nice knife as a Christmas gift, and I'm wondering if anybody has used MAC's Professional 9.5" chef's knife, as seen here. I can't find much about it online, but people seem to describe these as good workhorse knives, which appeals to me. I just picked up the Tojiro DP 300mm gyuto and not only is it sexy as hell and an inch longer for $100 less with a similar fit to that MAC, but I can confirm that its sturdy enough to smash all the garlic and then some to no ill effect.
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# ? Dec 20, 2014 09:34 |
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TheJeffers posted:I might be getting a nice knife as a Christmas gift, and I'm wondering if anybody has used MAC's Professional 9.5" chef's knife, as seen here. I can't find much about it online, but people seem to describe these as good workhorse knives, which appeals to me. I've sold a lot of them, use it myself and I'm really happy with it. I've definitely put it through a lot and so far I haven't even chipped it. Sharpens easily enough, too. I have more expensive knives, but it's the one I keep going back to. But ultimately you just have to try it and find out if it feels all right for your style of knife work.
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# ? Dec 20, 2014 12:07 |
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I got in and out of Korin for $13.07 last night (they were closing and I had someone to swat my hand).
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# ? Dec 20, 2014 16:33 |
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Thanks for the responses. I'll probably tell my Santa to get the Tojiro DP gyuto and a couple of nice sharpening stones instead.
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# ? Dec 20, 2014 18:52 |
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TheJeffers posted:I might be getting a nice knife as a Christmas gift, and I'm wondering if anybody has used MAC's Professional 9.5" chef's knife, as seen here. I can't find much about it online, but people seem to describe these as good workhorse knives, which appeals to me. I haven't used the 9.5" but I have the 8" and the Santoku from the same line and they're excellent.
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# ? Dec 20, 2014 19:20 |
The MACs are good knives but I would recommend the Tojiro DP or Fujiwara FKM lines over them just based on how much cheaper they are. The FKM line does not get mentioned much here but they are really nice. I prefer them over the DPs, they are a bit thiner, especially at the tip. The thinness helps the tip pass through stuff more easily and makes it better for fine work while still not feeling fragile.
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# ? Dec 21, 2014 08:26 |
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someone recommend to me a 5k-6k finishing stone. I'm looking at the King 6k cause it's cheap but idk how it is. http://www.amazon.com/King-S-3-Deluxe-Water-Stone/dp/B00201M960 also maybe this Suehiro http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suehiro-600...=item19d47e14f5 I have a chinatown coarse grit right now for repairs, a Bester 1200 for medium grit, and some loaded balsa strops that I also use for straight razor, but I think a low bound fine grit finishing stone would work better for kitchen use. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Dec 22, 2014 |
# ? Dec 22, 2014 01:22 |
GrAviTy84 posted:someone recommend to me a 5k-6k finishing stone. I'm looking at the King 6k cause it's cheap but idk how it is. The King one is decent, if you want something that cuts faster, doesn't need soaking and like a harder stone this Shapton is good, it's the same as the Shapton pros, just with japanese branding. I dunno about the Suehiro, their Rika line is very good if you like a soft stone but I've heard their other lines are mediocre. That one you linked doesn't say what it is but it doesn't look like a Rika to me, it's a bit of a gamble I guess.
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# ? Dec 22, 2014 02:24 |
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I have no previous experience with sharpening knives, but I decided to give the EdgePro-esque a shot. I lack self-confidence in these matters so I decided to try it on an old crappy paring knife my wife had before she went Cutco - meaning it's spent the last 15+ years in a drawer, and before that, it probably went through a few hundred dishwasher cycles, and before that, it probably cost $5 at some grocery store somewhere. Anyway... I had no problem getting the knicks out with a coarse stone, but now I've taken it to 1000 grit, it looks pretty shiny, but it doesn't feel especially sharp. I'm comparing it to the paring knife I ignorantly bought as part of a Henckel set and then maintained with a pull-through, so the bar isn't especially high here. I've got three theories: 1) 1000 grit isn't enough and I need to go further before I try cutting something, or 2) a knife this lovely is just not going to take a good edge, or 3) I'm doing something wrong. I want to rule out number three before I try sharpening my chef's knife, 'cause if I do something bad to it, I will spend the holiday mired in self-loathing. Can anyone provide advice or moral support?
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# ? Dec 23, 2014 05:30 |
Zorak of Michigan posted:I have no previous experience with sharpening knives, but I decided to give the EdgePro-esque a shot. I lack self-confidence in these matters so I decided to try it on an old crappy paring knife my wife had before she went Cutco - meaning it's spent the last 15+ years in a drawer, and before that, it probably went through a few hundred dishwasher cycles, and before that, it probably cost $5 at some grocery store somewhere. Anyway... I had no problem getting the knicks out with a coarse stone, but now I've taken it to 1000 grit, it looks pretty shiny, but it doesn't feel especially sharp. I'm comparing it to the paring knife I ignorantly bought as part of a Henckel set and then maintained with a pull-through, so the bar isn't especially high here. I've got three theories: 1) 1000 grit isn't enough and I need to go further before I try cutting something, or 2) a knife this lovely is just not going to take a good edge, or 3) I'm doing something wrong. I want to rule out number three before I try sharpening my chef's knife, 'cause if I do something bad to it, I will spend the holiday mired in self-loathing. Can anyone provide advice or moral support? What exactly are you doing? Walk us through your procedure in as much detail as possible. 1k ought to be plenty for a soft steel knife.
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# ? Dec 23, 2014 05:35 |
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1000 grit is still a pretty medium grit in knifeland. If the knife was really that beat up maybe you didn't grind off enough to form a new edge? I'd watch some videos about edge forming and chasing the burr, etc. edit: also make sure you're not mistaking sharpness for edge "bite"
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# ? Dec 23, 2014 05:36 |
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GrAviTy84 posted:someone recommend to me a 5k-6k finishing stone. I'm looking at the King 6k cause it's cheap but idk how it is. Insofar as it informs my suggestion, I lack for the comprehensive experience presented by someone like knifenut/Jason Bosman. That said, I took his suggestion of an Arashiyama 6k, and I have been very happy with it. In the absence of a dedicated stone, it's done a solid job as a razor hone, too.
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# ? Dec 23, 2014 06:02 |
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GrAviTy84 posted:1000 grit is still a pretty medium grit in knifeland. If the knife was really that beat up maybe you didn't grind off enough to form a new edge? I'd watch some videos about edge forming and chasing the burr, etc. I was, in fact, mistaking sharpness for bite. Googling those terms and figuring out the difference led to a page that also taught me that watching videos had given me the wrong idea of what raising a burr really meant. I moved from 400 to 1000 when I could feel some stuff on the other side of the blade, but seeing people describe it as a wire tells me I wasn't really there yet. Anyway, I tried using it to cut thin bits off an onion rather than trying to slice balance transfer checks and hey, look at that, it was probably 95% as good as my old knife. I assume that actually raising a burr with the 400 and 1000 will get it to where I was hoping it would be. Thanks! AVeryLargeRadish, I was trying to faithfully follow the advice from the videos on the EdgePro web site, but I didn't get the nuances. :/
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# ? Dec 23, 2014 06:29 |
Zorak of Michigan posted:I was, in fact, mistaking sharpness for bite. Googling those terms and figuring out the difference led to a page that also taught me that watching videos had given me the wrong idea of what raising a burr really meant. I moved from 400 to 1000 when I could feel some stuff on the other side of the blade, but seeing people describe it as a wire tells me I wasn't really there yet. Anyway, I tried using it to cut thin bits off an onion rather than trying to slice balance transfer checks and hey, look at that, it was probably 95% as good as my old knife. I assume that actually raising a burr with the 400 and 1000 will get it to where I was hoping it would be. Thanks! When you are sharpening a very old and beat up knife like the one you were sharpening you want to grind until you can see a clear, even bevel on the side you are sharpening and then repeat on the other side and switch back and forth until the sides are roughly equal. Then switch to the next stone and raise a burr on one side, then the other, etc. When you are nearly done with a stone the feel of the stone going over the knife will change, becoming smoother feeling. You will still have some bur left at the very end even if you cannot feel it, if you have a cork you can draw the edge of the blade through the cork to remove the last of the burr. If you have some newspaper sitting around you can put it on a flat surface and do some edge trailing strokes on it to refine the edge a little more. You should be able to get it to shaving and printer paper slicing sharpness even if it's a pretty crap knife, I got my $15 Ikea knife there with a 1200 grit stone after all.
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# ? Dec 23, 2014 06:47 |
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Can anybody identity the make of this knife? I found it at a garage sale in pretty rough shape but after some vigorous sharpening it holds a very nice edge. It's extremely heavy and has a fairly obtuse edge but holds it very well.
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# ? Dec 23, 2014 13:13 |
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Is the Tojiro DP mentioned as the mid range chef's knife in op still the recommended knife for that category? As in this bad boy?
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# ? Dec 25, 2014 20:21 |
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Paper With Lines posted:Is the Tojiro DP mentioned as the mid range chef's knife in op still the recommended knife for that category? As in this bad boy? It is AFAIC. Santa dropped the 10.5" DP and a ceramic honing rod on me for christmas, and I'd put that motherfucker against knives that cost five times as much. The honing rod also whipped the rest of my knives into shape. Even my beater Victorinox is feeling the love!
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# ? Dec 25, 2014 20:50 |
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Paper With Lines posted:Is the Tojiro DP mentioned as the mid range chef's knife in op still the recommended knife for that category? As in this bad boy? thats the one. Also consider the Fujiwara FKM. Tojiros are a great bang for buck but they may need a bit of touch up out of the box. A lot of people really like the Fujiwara's too. Edit: unless you have shallow counters, I would recommend going at least 240mm. Edit 2: I may take the plunge on an ebay yanagi soon. Found a seller that does Takefu v2 (similar to shiro2), kurouchi stuff for really affordable and the spergforums seem to really like their gyuto and nakiri. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Dec 25, 2014 |
# ? Dec 25, 2014 20:55 |
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or just get this fuckin thing http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-TADAFUSA-Blue-Steel-Wa-gyuto-Knife-Nashiji-210mm-/381101717905 that's a crazy deal
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# ? Dec 25, 2014 21:18 |
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GrAviTy84 posted:or just get this fuckin thing Too small. I'm eyeing a 270mm Moritaka Kiritsuke as a birthday present next year. May try to get a custom that's a bit taller.
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# ? Dec 25, 2014 22:23 |
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I got that chinese Edge Pro knockoff that I think someone linked in here for Christmas. It's a lot of fun to use. What angle do most people use for their knives? I had just been free-handing it with a water stone, so I've never really worried about the actual angle.
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# ? Dec 25, 2014 22:48 |
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Too small. I'm eyeing a 270mm Moritaka Kiritsuke as a birthday present next year. May try to get a custom that's a bit taller. I mostly meant for Paper With Lines who was looking at the 210 Tojiro DP. This is the yanagi I'm lookin at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-YA...e3a48c#shpCntId in 270mm. Takefu V2 steel core.
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# ? Dec 25, 2014 23:56 |
Paper With Lines posted:Is the Tojiro DP mentioned as the mid range chef's knife in op still the recommended knife for that category? As in this bad boy? Yeah, the Tojiro DPs are great deals, especially if you want something pretty hefty. I like the Fujiwara FKM a little better because it thins out more as it goes towards the tip where as the Tojiro maintains most of it's thickness until it hits the grind into the tip. If you want to try a japanese handle the Richmond GT Artifex is a really good choice, the blade is made by Fujiwara and is very similar to the FKM's blade and the handle is of exceptional quality for such a low priced knife. If you want to try out a carbon knife I recommend grabbing the one Grav linked on E-bay.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 02:43 |
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As far as Japanese handled knives go is Grav's recommendation of the Tojiro ITK 240mm Gyuto still standing for that style? The carbon one linked above is probably not a good idea for a first knife that isn't a $20 Kitchenware thing.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 03:39 |
Salsa McManus posted:As far as Japanese handled knives go is Grav's recommendation of the Tojiro ITK 240mm Gyuto still standing for that style? The carbon one linked above is probably not a good idea for a first knife that isn't a $20 Kitchenware thing. Hmmmm, for a first time Wa handle I would go with the aforementioned Richmond GT Artifex. Mostly because it's very cheap for the quality you get, has a much nicer handle and it's fully stainless. The ITKs have really great blades for the price but the iron cladding is really reactive and they a good bit of care to make sure they don't rust on you.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 04:02 |
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Awesome! Thanks everyone. Willie Tomg posted:It is AFAIC. Do you know which one it is or do you think any ceramic rod would do? I've got a Chicago cutlery rod but it seems a bit aggressive.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 05:24 |
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GrAviTy84 posted:or just get this fuckin thing The description says its blue #2 steel clad stainless steel. That makes no sense. Why would they use blue #2 as cladding. Must be a mistake in the description.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 05:43 |
Paper With Lines posted:Awesome! Thanks everyone. This one plus the sheath is good. The Chicago one will damage hard steel knives like these. Though I really recommend getting some waterstones for sharpening, they work much better than a rod if you can get the hang of them. good jovi posted:I got that chinese Edge Pro knockoff that I think someone linked in here for Christmas. It's a lot of fun to use. What angle do most people use for their knives? I had just been free-handing it with a water stone, so I've never really worried about the actual angle. It depends on the knife, I like 12-14 degrees for my japanese knives and 18-20 for the western ones. If I'm cutting a lot of meat I prefer a more robust edge since meat is tougher on the edge. I mostly cut vegetables so I stick with steeper edges in general.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 05:45 |
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Present posted:The description says its blue #2 steel clad stainless steel. That makes no sense. Why would they use blue #2 as cladding. Must be a mistake in the description.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 06:13 |
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Salsa McManus posted:As far as Japanese handled knives go is Grav's recommendation of the Tojiro ITK 240mm Gyuto still standing for that style? The carbon one linked above is probably not a good idea for a first knife that isn't a $20 Kitchenware thing. the ITK is still a carbon knife so if you want to avoid carbon I wouldn't get that one. Radish's rec of the richmond looks like the only one in that price range. I'm not familiar but the reviews look good. Wa handle + stainless is kind of a hard combo to get in this price range for some reason. Looks like there's a Tanaka in Ginsan stainless at the 160bux mark but that's twice the price of the ITK you were considering.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 19:05 |
GrAviTy84 posted:the ITK is still a carbon knife so if you want to avoid carbon I wouldn't get that one. The Tanaka Ginsan is a really good knife by all reports. It's handle is very low end but serviceable and the fit and finish is very rough but the blade itself is really, really good. Also Ginsan is a great steel, very fine grained and easy to sharpen for stainless. If you don't mind taking some sandpaper to the spine and choil to even out the roughness it's well worth the price.
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# ? Dec 26, 2014 22:04 |
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I got a wusthof serrated paring knife for Christmas. Should I switch it for the non serrated one? I don't have any other knives besides Cheap rear end-Walmart ones.
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# ? Dec 29, 2014 01:56 |
goodness posted:I got a wusthof serrated paring knife for Christmas. Should I switch it for the non serrated one? I don't have any other knives besides Cheap rear end-Walmart ones. I'd say yes, serrated knives are a pain to keep sharpened and paring knives are meant for fine, delicate work, serrations only work against you for that sort of stuff.
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# ? Dec 29, 2014 04:02 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 14:41 |
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I'm betting it's a tomato knife. Yeah, if you don't already have a normal paring knife, go for that instead.
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# ? Dec 29, 2014 04:05 |