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I mean if I "span" the two drives so they appear as one disk.
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Dec 26, 2014 11:07
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Dont bother with that. Just have 2 drive letters.
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Dec 26, 2014 15:42
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Anything I need to know before dropping an 850 Pro into a Mac Mini? Any firmware updates or anything I should do beforehand?
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Dec 26, 2014 19:12
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Don Lapre posted:Dont bother with that. Just have 2 drive letters. Also you can have your OS mount the smaller drive as a folder in the large one in addition to a new letter to be similar to one spanned drive but without the chaos if one dies.
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Dec 26, 2014 21:31
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Come on guys... I know most of the downsides of spanning drives (that's the word windows uses), but I'm not concerned about doubling my failure rate. I just want to know if I keep all my drive commands if I do this. I know how to use sym links and what not, and there is no chaos if the drive dies, I am properly backed up and have devices to cover for any missing SSD capacity. LRADIKAL fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Dec 26, 2014 |
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Dec 26, 2014 22:53
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Jago posted:Come on guys... I know most of the downsides of spanning drives (that's the word windows uses), but I'm not concerned about doubling my failure rate. I just want to know if I keep all my drive commands if I do this. Not sure I understand what you are asking. You could look into storage spaces if you're running windows 8. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/storage-spaces-pools
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Dec 26, 2014 23:43
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Quick Question: Is Samsung Magician still hosed up? I managed to set up my HTPC just fine before with the older version but I'm about to head to the grandfolk's in an hour and I still need to run both the Data Restoration & enable UEFI and all that. I'm also building a computer tonight/tomorrow for a friend so I'll need to do it for that one too. Am I going to run into problems or has Samsung fixed their software? If not, does anyone have the previous version of Magician backed up? Don Lapre posted:Hate to break it to you but you need to reinstall to get uefi benefits. I guess if Win10 turns out to be decent, that'll be my chance for the other comps. The Joe Man fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Dec 27, 2014 |
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Dec 27, 2014 00:53
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The Joe Man posted:Quick Question: Is Samsung Magician still hosed up? I managed to set up my HTPC just fine before with the older version but I'm about to head to the grandfolk's in an hour and I still need to run both the Data Restoration & enable UEFI and all that. I'm also building a computer tonight/tomorrow for a friend so I'll need to do it for that one too. Hate to break it to you but you need to reinstall to get uefi benefits.
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Dec 27, 2014 00:59
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Season's greetings, thread! Yesterday I unexpectedly received a 250gb 840evo and with your help I am on my way to installing it. I'm afraid I might be a little bit out of my depth. I've read relevant parts of the OP about a dozen times and have managed to run memtest and disk cleaner so far. When it comes to cables, can I install this drive with just a SATA cable? Samsung insists I buy a little usb dongle and have the drive outside for the data migration, but can't I just use the permanent cables? Where do I get power? can I just shove it onto the daisy-chain that winds about the inside of my PC? And is "just sitting on top of my HDD" an appropriate resting place for such advanced modern technology? tl;dr--How much do I need to buy an installation kit or can just skip that step? tia EDIT: \/\/\/\/Thanks for the reassurances. I guess the kits would be useful for replacing drives instead of just adding another one. say no to scurvy fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Dec 27, 2014 |
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Dec 27, 2014 01:33
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The Joe Man posted:Goddamn it. I guess I can do it on the new build but I'm kinda at a loss on the others since don't you have to run that registry hotfix within Win7 first and then switch it in the BIOS on the reboot? That's what I did with the HTPC. Are you getting UEFI and AHCI mixed up? UEFI is for the fast boot stuff and AHCI is for getting TRIM working and general performance improvements. In an ideal world you'd want both, but if you're stuck with a video card that doesn't support fast boot, then you at least want AHCI to be on. say no to scurvy posted:Season's greetings, thread! Are you migrating your current install or are you going for a fresh install? If you are migrating, then you can use Macrium Reflect Free to do so with regular SATA cables. I'm not sure if Samsung Magician works with the SSD connected to SATA, but you can give it a shot. How you get power depends on how you connect it. If you use SATA, you'll want to use a SATA power connector. You'll probably have one available inside your case. If you get that USB converter, it'll be powered through USB. An SSD has no moving parts and doesn't give a poo poo about orientation. If you don't move your case around, then "just sitting on top of my HDD" is a fine choice. I personally have my SSD screwed in to one of the trays my case has, but others just let it hang from the cable or velcro it to the case. Go hog wild!
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Dec 27, 2014 01:56
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Disgustipated posted:Based on the advice in the OP I have ordered an 850 Pro 512 GB for my Early 2011 15" MacBook Pro. Should be in tomorrow. I will be using TRIM Enabler, so TRIM should work fine. Would enabling FileVault be a bad idea? I've searched around and it seems like most people think it will be fine, but just wanted a sanity check here too. Adding to the chorus of "It'll be fine". The only SSDs where FileVault might be a bad-ish idea are those based on SandForce controllers. That's because well-encrypted data is more or incompressible, and SandForce controllers rely on compression to hit their specified write performance and write lifespan numbers. FileVault encrypts everything before it hits the drive, the drive can't compress it, performance suffers. However, (a) it's not a truly end of the world type deal (Apple itself shipped some OEM SandForce SSDs and does not in any way discourage you from using FileVault with them) and (b) Samsung controllers don't have this issue at all.
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Dec 27, 2014 02:23
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sellouts posted:Anything I need to know before dropping an 850 Pro into a Mac Mini? Any firmware updates or anything I should do beforehand? If your Mini has an optical drive, Samsung releases "Mac" firmware updaters in the form of ISO images you can burn bootable CDs from, so there's no need to worry about updating firmware before putting it in. If it doesn't have an optical drive there are people out there who've hacked Samsung's updaters into Mac-bootable USB sticks so even then you may be able to figure out a way to do it without popping the SSD out and putting it into a PC.
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Dec 27, 2014 02:36
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BobHoward posted:If your Mini has an optical drive, Samsung releases "Mac" firmware updaters in the form of ISO images you can burn bootable CDs from, so there's no need to worry about updating firmware before putting it in. Thanks, I've got an external drive I can use when needed. In the meantime it doesn't look like a fw update is out yet. I wish they'd release magician so I could enable rapid 2.0 but the drive still should be a massive improvement.
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Dec 27, 2014 02:44
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Fortunately we don't really need RAPID on the Mac, the OS X disk cache is pretty good.
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Dec 27, 2014 03:16
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say no to scurvy posted:Season's greetings, thread! Those kits are mainly for upgrading to a ssd when there are no more connectors or room for a drive, like laptops/netbooks/etc. I didn't mount my SSD, it's just lying on the bottom of the case, I rarely move that computer around. Alternatively you can just ziptie it to the side of the drive cage if you want it secured a bit more than that.
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Dec 27, 2014 13:19
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I just opened the Sandisk Ultra II I bought a few weeks ago and it came with this black bracket with adhesive on the back of it. There's no mention of it in the paperwork. What's it for?
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Dec 27, 2014 18:13
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Turkey Farts posted:I just opened the Sandisk Ultra II I bought a few weeks ago and it came with this black bracket with adhesive on the back of it. There's no mention of it in the paperwork. What's it for?
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Dec 27, 2014 18:24
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Flipperwaldt posted:It stops the drive wiggling around if you put it in a laptop that expects a 9.5mm thick drive instead of the increasingly more common 7mm, which your SSD is. Oh. *chucks it in the spare poo poo box* Thanks.
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Dec 27, 2014 19:40
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Is it worth the few extra dollars to go for a Samsung 850 at this point, or would my money be better spent on an 840 and a bottle of whisky? I'm still chugging along on a 7200RPM HDD, so really anything would be a vast improvement.
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Dec 27, 2014 21:38
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alright so i have two samsung evo 840s and i run the samsung magician software to make sure that the firmware is always up to date. is there any other voodoo i should be made aware of? besides that i always make sure to keep 20% of the total available space free for optimal speeds.
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Dec 27, 2014 21:40
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liquidfire posted:alright so i have two samsung evo 840s and i run the samsung magician software to make sure that the firmware is always up to date. is there any other voodoo i should be made aware of? besides that i always make sure to keep 20% of the total available space free for optimal speeds. Run the Samsung SSD 840 EVO Performance Restoration Software, if you haven't yet. The firmware it supplies is newer than what Magician has. Also, turn on RAPID. It's the secret sauce that makes the EVOs so good.* *I'm on 830s so I can't speak from personal experience.
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Dec 27, 2014 22:12
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Alright, so I'm looking for cables to buy and this power cable mentions that it won't do 3.3v which I may need? Will I need 3.3v for a 840evo?Geemer posted:Are you migrating your current install or are you going for a fresh install? If you are migrating, then you can use Macrium Reflect Free to do so with regular SATA cables. I'm not sure if Samsung Magician works with the SSD connected to SATA, but you can give it a shot. I was going to migrate. After work I will see what I can scrounge from my old machine, but I guess the question still stands. say no to scurvy fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Dec 27, 2014 |
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Dec 27, 2014 23:36
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You'll most likely have a free SATA power connector in your computer, but otherwise, that should be fine. I don't think there's any MOLEX to SATA converters that offer 3.3V as MOLEX just doesn't have any 3.3V lines.
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Dec 27, 2014 23:43
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Geemer posted:You'll most likely have a free SATA power connector in your computer Well it turns out I did. And with a SATA I already had, I got this thing installed without spending any money and surprisingly little trouble. Thanks everybody! Posted from my solid state OS
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Dec 28, 2014 11:25
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Do power quality problems (specifically brownouts or power outages that make the computer go down) still kill SSDs? (As in the SSD gets corrupted and all the data is lost, and the SSD stops working.)
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Dec 29, 2014 01:53
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Three-Phase posted:Do power quality problems (specifically brownouts or power outages that make the computer go down) still kill SSDs? (As in the SSD gets corrupted and all the data is lost, and the SSD stops working.) Give me a week and I can tell you  I had my EVO die due to a suspected PSU problem. I'll know more once Samsung receives the drive for RMA.
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Dec 29, 2014 02:45
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Three-Phase posted:Do power quality problems (specifically brownouts or power outages that make the computer go down) still kill SSDs? (As in the SSD gets corrupted and all the data is lost, and the SSD stops working.) My Lenovo laptop had a battery calibration issue that caused a bunch of abrupt power outages and it doesn't seemed to have harmed the Samsung 830 it came with at all - never lost any data and performance is still consistently good (or at least as good as it can be for a drive of that generation)
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Dec 29, 2014 03:44
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Currently trying all sorts of tricks to revive a year old PNY 120GB XLR8 drive that disappeared after a sudden power loss. And of course when I asked the user if they had backed up to the  , the answer was  .There's plenty of articles about drive endurance and data loss due to power failure, but I could only find this about devices being bricked, and they don't mention brands or models. Perhaps paying the premium for an Intel drive would have been better, but its not like it was an OCZ.
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Dec 31, 2014 16:33
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Personally, if it's not Samsung or Intel, I wouldn't put it in any machine that I care about data integrity.
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Dec 31, 2014 16:48
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What's the cheapest the thread consensus would go for for a HTPC boot drive? It just needs enough to boot XBMC (Kodi now). Or should I just use a USB stick and keep a spare around? The main reason I'd want local storage is for the thumbnail cache, hitting the network for those would be a lot slower. It's absolutely something that can be trivially re-installed, so it's mostly a matter of "won't have to RMA + reinstall every few months"
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Dec 31, 2014 22:08
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Bensa posted:Currently trying all sorts of tricks to revive a year old PNY 120GB XLR8 drive that disappeared after a sudden power loss. And of course when I asked the user if they had backed up to the Do you mind sharing your tricks? I had my 840 EVO brick last week and I've done the following: 1) Clear CMOS 2) Swap RAM around (this was a hail mary) 3) Try the SSD in another machine (that BIOS failed to detect as well) 4) Boot up to BIOS and let sit for several hours in hopes of resuscitating the drive 5) Swap SATA and power connectors 6) Remove SATA connector but keep power on and let soak All of these have been fruitless so I'm planning on sending it back to Samsung soon. If you have any suggestions I'd love to hear it.
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Dec 31, 2014 22:13
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Harik posted:What's the cheapest the thread consensus would go for for a HTPC boot drive? It just needs enough to boot XBMC (Kodi now). Or should I just use a USB stick and keep a spare around? The main reason I'd want local storage is for the thumbnail cache, hitting the network for those would be a lot slower. Go with a 120GB 840 or 850 EVO. Both are under $100. If you can swing $120, you can get a 128GB 850 Pro and pretty much never have to worry about your drive dying for easily 10 years, by which point computers will have taken over anyway. I'd also recommend an MX100 as a cheap option, but people get twitchy in here when you mention Crucial SSDs, and seeing as you can get a 256GB (MX100 or even an M500) for what Samsung charges for a 120, there are obviously corners being cut somewhere. EDIT: Evidently the 256GB M500 for $80 is a sale price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148694 I'd still go with Samsung, though. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Jan 1, 2015 |
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Dec 31, 2014 23:29
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If you just want a tiny XBMC drive you could go with the comdedy option of a CF card and a SATA adapter ($12) Ebay has tons of part-out 16GB SSDs for about $15 each shipped that probably came out of old netbooks. I bought two to experiment with a mirrored SSD drive pool in windows 8.1 and use it to launch steam games etc, it hasn't died (yet). They have read/write performance of about 100mb/s. The drive might not be super reliable over 5+ years but for $15 shipped it's a pretty good option for what you need it to do, especially if it's just to hold the OS of a device that streams all it's media over the network and data loss isn't critical. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Sol...=item5b096ea294 Newegg had an 850 evo, 240gb for $139 a couple days ago which points to an amazing 2015 in SSD prices/technology
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Jan 1, 2015 03:32
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I used Openelec and a 500GB HDD I had lying around for Kodi. I doubt using an SSD instead would have been any faster, it boots up in seconds anyway.
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Jan 1, 2015 03:49
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Why would you run openelec off a hard drive. Run it off a sd card or flash drive.
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Jan 1, 2015 04:03
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Don Lapre posted:Why would you run openelec off a hard drive. Run it off a sd card or flash drive. Thumbnail cache., although gig-e is probably faster than an ancient 16gb ssd anyway. I'll see what I end up wanting to do with the system aside from xbmc.
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Jan 1, 2015 06:40
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bull3964 posted:Personally, if it's not Samsung or Intel, I wouldn't put it in any machine that I care about data integrity. Hi this is the correct answer to any SSD questions appearing in this thread
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Jan 1, 2015 08:27
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Don Lapre posted:Why would you run openelec off a hard drive. Run it off a sd card or flash drive. It's also used as a PVR.
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Jan 1, 2015 08:50
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Anti-Hero posted:3) Try the SSD in another machine (that BIOS failed to detect as well) I've tried these, plus trying to see it with some low level tools, but the BIOS not seeing it limits this quite a lot. If I have the time I could try hooking it up to all sorts of electrical analysis hardware, now I just know the PCB is getting powered due to the current draw. go3 posted:Hi this is the correct answer to any SSD questions appearing in this thread Data integrity is slightly different from bricking, the prior wouldn't be so bad in this case. Edit: To clarify, I am fully aware that Intel is the best for long term reliability, but that's always not such a great concern as evidenced by the OP recommendations. But devices outright bricking when something goes slightly wrong is something that's not so well covered, and can't be discerned by looking at drive specifications. Bensa fucked around with this message at 11:00 on Jan 1, 2015 |
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Jan 1, 2015 10:56
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Bought a Mushkin Chronos about 1.5 years ago, and recently its been disappearing from my hard drive list. It will last for 30mins-1hour after a fresh boot, and then randomly disappear. I'm assuming its bricked, but is there any point in trying to install new firmware or anything? I've been able to pull off the few things that matter, so I'm not worried about losing data. Its full of video games, anyways. I kept 15-20% open the whole time I had it. I still have another 1.5 years on my warranty, and I'm assuming it just needs to return to mushkin heaven (and replaced with a new one for freeeeeeeeeeeee) edit: Related, I know samsung is making amazing SSDs. $184 for 250gig 850 Pro. Is the Pro worth the money bump from the EVO series? I'm not averse to getting two SSDs, just because Steam alone can put 200~ gigs of poo poo on one. Lobsterboy fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Jan 1, 2015 |
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Jan 1, 2015 18:11
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