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Animal posted:Why wouldn't Fuji use a leaf shutter on the X-T1? What's the max mechanical (non-electronic) shutter speed on the X100T? The fastest shutter speed on the X100T varies with aperture. At f/2 it's 1/1000; at f/4 it's 1/2000; and at f/8 it's 1/4000 (with a couple of smaller steps in between), which is the maximum both it and the X-T1 are capable of. With the X100 series, there is a reason for this which I don't quite recall, but it is due to limitations on how quickly leaf shutters can respond if I'm not mistaken. This is why 3-stop ND filters were built into the X100 series. Leaf shutters and the X-T1 would be lovely together, but probably not very practical outside of a studio environment. I believe incorporating leaf shutters in lenses significantly increases their cost too.
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Dec 27, 2014 00:52
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Animal posted:Why wouldn't Fuji use a leaf shutter on the X-T1? What's the max mechanical (non-electronic) shutter speed on the X100T? A leaf shutter, by design, lives INSIDE the lens. You would need to design a line of leaf shutter lenses, and establish a mode of communication for release between the camera and lens. Just an extra level of complexity that kinda goes against mechanically simple ethos (and cost metrics) of MILCs.
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Dec 27, 2014 01:01
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Fart Car '97 posted:The duration of the flash is shorter than the sensor read time, so the scene would only be potentially illuminated. You can use constant lighting, but not flash Are we not at a level of tech with LEDs that they can put out at least an equal level of performance compared to a small xenon built-in flash, but with the added benefit of having much more control over timing and duration?
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Dec 27, 2014 01:14
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Go take a picture with a 3-4 year old smart phone and ask again. (no, they're slow as gently caress and even some phones use tiny flash bulbs instead. )
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Dec 27, 2014 03:31
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Linedance posted:Are we not at a level of tech with LEDs that they can put out at least an equal level of performance compared to a small xenon built-in flash, but with the added benefit of having much more control over timing and duration? Not like that, but Cool Things are still possible. Look up HSS flashes. Unfortunately, they're all proprietary systems now.
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Dec 27, 2014 04:29
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Elliotw2 posted:Go take a picture with a 3-4 year old smart phone and ask again. (no, they're slow as gently caress and even some phones use tiny flash bulbs instead. ) The comment was originally about flash duration being too short to fully expose the frame with an electronic shutter. I figure with a few ultra bright LEDs, you could extend the duration of the flash long enough to expose the entire sensor. I'd kind of like to see the results of an electronic shutter exposure with a traditional flash though, for.. um.. 
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Dec 27, 2014 04:37
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Linedance posted:The comment was originally about flash duration being too short to fully expose the frame with an electronic shutter. I figure with a few ultra bright LEDs, you could extend the duration of the flash long enough to expose the entire sensor. Somewhere I have some shots taken with my D40 (electronic shutter) and cactus v5 triggers (advertised sync to 1/1250 or 1/1000 I can't remember) at like 1/2000. I was testing to see how fast the equipment could sync. I recall it working up to 1/1250th. After that the flash just didn't appear in the image at all, really. My guess is that things were out of sync at those speeds and the flash and camera totally missed each other.
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Dec 27, 2014 05:05
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JHVH-1 posted:The Olympus lens cap fisheye is cheap fun. I bought the other lens cap lens while it was on a flash sale so now I have both. Fixed f/8 but that makes it easy for focusing cause there is basically a little bit of manual focusing up close and infinity for everything else. It makes the camera fit easily in my small iPad bag which isn't that deep, with room for a couple full size lenses so I am digging it. that looks pretty sharp - everything's always all gummy and soft on mine. can't really complain for a $60 toy though i guess. or do you know something i don't? Twenty-Seven fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Dec 27, 2014 |
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Dec 27, 2014 07:50
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Linedance posted:Are we not at a level of tech with LEDs that they can put out at least an equal level of performance compared to a small xenon built-in flash, but with the added benefit of having much more control over timing and duration? Not by like several orders of magnitude. Even the most worthless popup flash is absurdly bright (for the brief time it's firing.)
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Dec 28, 2014 23:45
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Google Butt posted:The a7 is around that price now. You can adapt Canon lenses to it, but if it doesn't have a manual aperture ring you will have to buy the metabones adapter ($300). Thanks. I'm looking to buy new since it's a present and only seeing it for around 1300 for body only. Do you have any links? Would really like to get her a body and quality everyday zoom lens if possible. If not what's a good lens so I can recommend her family get her one.
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Dec 29, 2014 05:39
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If you have to buy new, perhaps consider the a6000 and a second lens. The a7 new is still pretty expensive as a kit, but the a6000 is considerably cheaper and still just as capable a camera. The Metabones adapter will still work on it should you decide to adapt Canon lenses, and if you decide you need full frame later it'll be a painless upgrade.
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Dec 29, 2014 08:47
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If you can stretch an extra hundred, Fuji gets a lot of love in this thread and the X-E2 + 18-55 is $1100.
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Dec 29, 2014 10:14
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Dat Fuji 23mm.... I'm probably going to start re-building my Fuji system after a lull in late 2014. I'm hoping Fuji re-issues the 35/1.4 with an updated motor and clutch focus ring. A re-do of the 18mm would also be nice. krooj fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Dec 29, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2014 18:21
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The out of focus area on that fuji 23mm is so silky and smooth, like a 12" Steely Dan record
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Dec 29, 2014 18:32
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I love love love that 23mm. And guess what UPS delivered today? 56mm f/1.4 I am currently in my way to the beach with a cute girl for portrait practice
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Dec 29, 2014 19:02
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I spoke with her sister's and they're going to chip in so we're going with the a7. Is the 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS Lens a good walk around lens for nyc? I know she's mostly going to be shooting cliche city architecture and portraits.
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Dec 29, 2014 19:08
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Animal posted:I love love love that 23mm. I hate your guts. I would kill a man for the 56mm.
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Dec 29, 2014 19:13
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KidDynamite posted:I spoke with her sister's and they're going to chip in so we're going with the a7. Is the 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS Lens a good walk around lens for nyc? I know she's mostly going to be shooting cliche city architecture and portraits. It'll be perfect for it.
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Dec 29, 2014 19:13
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Elliotw2 posted:It'll be perfect for it. Sweet I got this birthday stuff figured out 2 months in advance. Thanks for the help guys.
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Dec 29, 2014 19:16
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Animal posted:I love love love that 23mm. I don't do anything at all that I need that lens for, but I still want it. I did order the 55-200 yesterday since it looks like the super telephoto won't be out for like another year.
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Dec 29, 2014 20:14
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fknlo posted:I don't do anything at all that I need that lens for, but I still want it. I did order the 55-200 yesterday since it looks like the super telephoto won't be out for like another year. At the shop where I snagged the 23, they had the 56 APD in stock, and were messing around with it. That's _a_lot_ of glass. Similarly, I can't imagine having a use for it - it's just lens porn.
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Dec 29, 2014 21:44
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fknlo posted:I don't do anything at all that I need that lens for, but I still want it. I did order the 55-200 yesterday since it looks like the super telephoto won't be out for like another year. The 56/1.2 (not 1.4) actually can replace alot of lens. I brought the 56, the 14 and the 18-55 and two bodies on a roadtrip recently. I took 99% of the photos with the 14 and the 56, and only used the kit zoom for maybe 10 photos.
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Dec 29, 2014 22:36
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Here are some test shots with the 56mm wide open at f/1.2, this lens is nuts! I will need to use an ND filter to shoot wide open in broad daylight. I have some here but I forgot to bring them. They are well reviewed on Amazon but are made of plastic and I am afraid they will degrade quality. Anyone recommends some good ND filters that will do justice to this lovely lens? Not her best one from the shoot, but a good example of the creamy background blur. I used the Classic Chroma film simulation:  56mm f/1.2 bokeh by Mannymall, on Flickr A bodega owner. Classic Chrome again. Zoom in to see his badass skin graft on his left arm:  Bokeh effect on christmas lights by Mannymall, on Flickr A guy with Down's syndrome, he was cool as gently caress and really clever. Classic Chrome again, and check out the background blur on this one:  Bokeh effect on christmas lights by Mannymall, on Flickr Tomorrow I will do some test shots for stuff other than portraits. The focal length is actually pretty good for some street stuff at angles, I can see myself using this lens as a night street lens in a city with a lot of vertical activity like Seoul or NYC. If you do any portraits you need to get this lens, and get it soon because its already back to $999 at bhphoto and $882 on Amazon and will probably go back to a grand there too. This lens is a perfect complement for the 23mm f/1.4 and with those two I don't see myself needing the 35mm f/1.4 as awesome as it is, my sister will be keeping that one with my old X-E1. I'll just use the kit 18-55mm for wide angle stuff. I was considering selling it and getting the 14mm but the kit zoom is a fantastic travel lens for situations when it would be stupid to swap lenses (desert, beach, any time the sensor could get contaminated.) Animal fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 01:00
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I have seen 56 1.2 shots before that were very sharp, yours really aren't unless Flickr is being dumb or something. The only one that's pretty sharp is the bodega guy. Also, you don't need an ND filter for the girl on a bridge shot. What you need is to drop down from ISO 800 to ISO 200.
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Dec 30, 2014 03:51
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Dren posted:I have seen 56 1.2 shots before that were very sharp, yours really aren't unless Flickr is being dumb or something. The only one that's pretty sharp is the bodega guy. Also, you don't need an ND filter for the girl on a bridge shot. What you need is to drop down from ISO 800 to ISO 200. Yeah as far as sharpness I seemed to have better results in lower light shots like that bodega guy, plus he is the only one who stood still for more than two seconds. These were not nearly the best shots of the day, but the ones I chose to post to show the bokeh. I didn't have a lot of time today and was just messing around checking out the background blur in aperture priority mode. Also I still suck at this. Tomorrow I will try to take some serious shots fully manual in broad daylight
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Dec 30, 2014 04:02
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Animal posted:Yeah as far as sharpness I seemed to have better results in lower light shots like that bodega guy, plus he is the only one who stood still for more than two seconds. These were not nearly the best shots of the day, but the ones I chose to post to show the bokeh. I didn't have a lot of time today and was just messing around checking out the background blur in aperture priority mode. Also I still suck at this. Tomorrow I will try to take some serious shots fully manual in broad daylight Do Fujis have auto ISO with minimum shutter speeds? Set the minimum shutter to like 1/125 or 1/160 for humans that might move a bit, shoot in A like you are doing, and make sure you are nailing focus.
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Dec 30, 2014 04:08
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Yes, I had it set minimum to 80. Thanks I'll post again with results. I'm looking at all the shots and the bodega guy is by far the best one and the shutter speed is as you indicate. With the girl I had to switch continuous autofocus because she would constantly giggle and walk away from my frame. The guy with down's syndrome was a better model. With such shallow depth of field I gotta make sure I nail the focus right between their eyes.
Animal fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 04:12
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You can also set ISO to 100.
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Dec 30, 2014 05:29
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X100S bokey is nice Santa Monica by khyrre, on Flickr
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Dec 30, 2014 06:45
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Yeah but you can't shoot raw at 100 and blech to that
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Dec 30, 2014 06:46
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I kinda want to go nuts and buy another piece of Fuji hardware before I go on a 2+ week trip in March. I currently have an X-E1 w/ the kit and the 35mm 1.4; what would be the better thing to look into? X100S/T? 10-24mm? X-E2? Stop spending money and just shoot what I have?
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Dec 30, 2014 06:49
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Phone posted:I kinda want to go nuts and buy another piece of Fuji hardware before I go on a 2+ week trip in March. I currently have an X-E1 w/ the kit and the 35mm 1.4; what would be the better thing to look into? X100S/T? 10-24mm? X-E2? Stop spending money and just shoot what I have? Not spending anything is the cheapest  Asking about a x100 to a wide angle lens to a X-E2 sounds to me you just want to throw money at Fuji without any thinking about what photographic need you want to solve Are you into wide angles? I think my 14mm performs exceptionally well and its small size is very welcome. But online I read about some people ditching it for 10-24 and being very happy with it. Are you not taking the X-E1 a lot because of its size? Try the 27mm or the x100
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Dec 30, 2014 11:24
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Phone posted:I kinda want to go nuts and buy another piece of Fuji hardware before I go on a 2+ week trip in March. I currently have an X-E1 w/ the kit and the 35mm 1.4; what would be the better thing to look into? X100S/T? 10-24mm? X-E2? Stop spending money and just shoot what I have? If you want to go nuts, I highly recommend the X-T1, 23/1.4, and 56/1.2.
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Dec 30, 2014 12:18
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If you really just want to throw money Fuji's way, buy a GF670 and shoot lots of Velvia, Provia and Acros. (Keep the X-E1, take the 35/1.4 and the kit zoom, figure out which focal lengths you use most often and buy the closest prime when you get back. Though I reckon you could do worse than keeping the 35mm on at all times, it's a great and versatile focal length and changing lenses when out and about sucks.)
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Dec 30, 2014 13:01
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Phone posted:I kinda want to go nuts and buy another piece of Fuji hardware before I go on a 2+ week trip in March. I currently have an X-E1 w/ the kit and the 35mm 1.4; what would be the better thing to look into? X100S/T? 10-24mm? X-E2? Stop spending money and just shoot what I have? Depends on your budget Under 300b an used XE1/XM1/XA1 Around 600: a X100s Over 800: a 56 baby.
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Dec 30, 2014 15:52
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Baron Dirigible posted:If you really just want to throw money Fuji's way, buy a GF670 and shoot lots of Velvia, Provia and Acros. The 35mm has been plastered to the X-E1 since I got it. Space isn't really a concern, and the 18-55 is barely larger. I think I just need to calm the gently caress down and use what I have... And then buy that 50-140mm and a newer body near the end of the year. 
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Dec 30, 2014 16:29
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How dumb would it be to build out an E-mount system at this point? I've shot with my NEX-5N for awhile now and I love it, despite the clunky controls and lack of EVF (really lovely in sunny Colorado). I don't have the world's most critical eye, but I've been pretty impressed by what this body and DxO Optics can do with very basic lenses. But, I recently came across an A6000 bundle with the Sony 16-50 power zoom and 50mm f/1.8 all for under $800. I've already got the Sigma 19mm f/2.8, and that lens set seems like it would have me covered for nearly all shooting I'd ever do. I ask because I just saw some of those A7S reviews and I think I shed a tear when I saw how a single candle provides easily enough light for that camera to shoot. I can't justify spending $2k+ on a body that would out-resolve any lens I own now, but should I just start doing FE mount lenses in expectation of upgrading again in 1-2 years? Or take the fire sale that's happening on E-mount and stick with APS-C? If it helps, I regularly make 16x20 canvas prints and do some ham-fisted video editing. Radbot fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 16:42
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If you're just looking to expand your lens options, get a lens adapter and some manual focus lenses. The 5N is still a damned fine camera despite its horrible menu system. If you're doing big prints, the A7S may not suit you as it is only 12MP, less than your 5N. The A7S is a purpose-built camera and that purpose is to take photos and video in low light. That plus its silent shutter are the only main advantages it had over the other models in the A7 series. What you may want to consider is the A7II and using it with manual focus lenses until you can save up for AF glass.
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Dec 30, 2014 17:46
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HPL posted:If you're just looking to expand your lens options, get a lens adapter and some manual focus lenses. The 5N is still a damned fine camera despite its horrible menu system. Good point, MF may be the way to go, especially since I've really enjoyed shooting my MC/MD Minolta and Pentax 110 lenses on the 5N. Do you know if glassless (in this case, Minolta MD) -> Sony E-mount adapters will work on FE-mount cameras? edit: Holy poo poo, the A7II stabilizes manual lenses? Maybe that's the one I should go with after all. Although the IBIS doesn't look as effective as I'd hoped... Radbot fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 18:23
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So long as they're an open circle, it'll still work fine on the a7 models. The FE mount is no different from the E mount except it has a bigger sensor. Obviously the Pentax 110 and the Sigma 19mm won't make a big enough image circle, remember to enable crop mode if you want to use these.
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Dec 30, 2014 18:28
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