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I'm trying to focus on Doom, but I can't help but focus on Christopher Walken as the 11th Doctor in the background.
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Dec 3, 2014 20:40
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Cassa posted:I haven't tried arranging any yet. Mostly I head to cons and take photos of people there. A lot of the photographers I know will post on a convention's facebook page before the con and schedule mini photoshoots in advance. That way you can scout a location near the convention and get shots that are better than in the hotel. In the circles I run in, doing setting-appropriate shots seems to be really becoming the main focus of cosplay photography. Here's my standard armor starting post! It partly depends on what type of material you think you'd like to work with and how much you want to spend on it. quote:1. EVA foam, which is like craft foam from JoAnns or those big puzzle piece yoga mats. It's very easy to work with and super cheap and very lightweight. The downside would be that it's not as durable as plastics but you can surface it with glue (I hear FlexBond is a really good brand) or plastidip spray to protect it a bit more. I like cosplayer WM Armory for getting ideas, he posts tutorials sometimes like this http://www.wmarmory.com/?p=949 and his facebook has a lot of photos that I think are helpful to see how he's working
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Dec 3, 2014 20:42
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Going to Holiday Matsuri as Harry Dresden, and I was suddenly struck by inspiration. Grabbing myself some tinsel and a tiny Santa hat this week.
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Dec 3, 2014 21:49
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Commissar Canuck posted:I'm planning on making a Doctor Doom costume in the new year and could use any sort of advice/guide/info on making armoured bits for the legs and arms. In a perfect world, I would love to make something like this: Yea, DOOM is tough to get looking right. The one here is pretty good but the gloves are kinda crappy. The one you linked is cool but I'm about 90% sure those are motocross gloves that have been spray painted with some greeblies added for the yellow bits. I just think the chest armor is overkill. Weirdly enough, the best DOOM costume I have ever seen was in the Corman FF film.
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Dec 3, 2014 22:37
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Does anybody know if there's such a thing as contact lenses that appear 'clear' in daylight but glow under a black/uv light? I've found lenses that glow under a uv light but they still have a novelty design in daylight. Sorry if this is the wrong thread for it, but it seemd the best place to ask. Tea Bone fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Dec 3, 2014 |
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Dec 3, 2014 23:54
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Tea Bone posted:Does anybody know if there's such a thing as contact lenses that appear 'clear' in daylight but glow under a black/uv light? I've found lenses that glow under a uv light but they still have a novelty design in daylight. If you have blue or green eyes there are "rave" contacts you can get that won't seem abnormal outside of UV. Problem is that they also don't really pop under UV unless people are really looking; it's the abnormal colors like yellow that people will notice under UV. edit: What UV source are you expecting? I mean they'll all pop with enough UV; I've only used them at glow parties where the UV is from club lights and UV lamps 5-10 feet away. But aiming a lot of UV light at your eyes from a costume to get them to pop seems like a poor idea eye-safety-wise. fordan fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Dec 4, 2014 |
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Dec 4, 2014 00:31
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Bag of Hamsters posted:If you're worried about experience levels, don't. Anyone who's not an rear end will know they're helping you build a portfolio, just like they want to get better making costumes. Thanks for all the awesome advice! I'll definitely work on most of thise, and I'll be the one to record cosplayer names rather than expect them to keep a card. Kinda forgot a lot of costumes don't exactly have pockets. McPantserton posted:A lot of the photographers I know will post on a convention's facebook page before the con and schedule mini photoshoots in advance. That way you can scout a location near the convention and get shots that are better than in the hotel. In the circles I run in, doing setting-appropriate shots seems to be really becoming the main focus of cosplay photography. Huh I'll have to give that a go. Setting appropriate does sound more fun, and I've half a mind to build a green screen I can carry around so anywhere can become appropriate =D
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Dec 4, 2014 00:44
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fordan posted:If you have blue or green eyes there are "rave" contacts you can get that won't seem abnormal outside of UV. Problem is that they also don't really pop under UV unless people are really looking; it's the abnormal colors like yellow that people will notice under UV. It's for a masquerade party. One of the rooms is going to have 3x 20 watt uv bulbs, I have no idea how bright that's likely to be. If it makes any difference I'll be in a mask where the only part of my face you'd see is my eyes.
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Dec 4, 2014 01:25
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McPantserton posted:Here's my standard armor starting post! It partly depends on what type of material you think you'd like to work with and how much you want to spend on it. Thanks for that! I'll probably start with PVA and EVA before dropping money on worbla. Do you think it's worth buying the ebooks offered by Kamui Cosplay and WM Armory?
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Dec 4, 2014 14:52
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I've found the guide(s) on this site to be pretty helpful: http://props.punishedpixels.com/shop/foam-armorsmithing-vol-1-design-templating-fabrication/
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Dec 4, 2014 15:30
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Commissar Canuck posted:Thanks for that! I'll probably start with PVA and EVA before dropping money on worbla. Do you think it's worth buying the ebooks offered by Kamui Cosplay and WM Armory? I don't personally own either one but they're both pretty cheap, I imagine it couldn't hurt! I would not get Kamui's plastics book unless you're doing worbla though, it's a pretty specifically used material. The painting one is probably more universally useful.
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Dec 4, 2014 16:19
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Commissar Canuck posted:Thanks for that! I'll probably start with PVA and EVA before dropping money on worbla. Do you think it's worth buying the ebooks offered by Kamui Cosplay and WM Armory? They're cheap but before you buy I'd look around a bit more you can find most of the stuff online or figure it out through experimentation with whatever material you pick. Evil Ted on youtube has some great basic tutorials and links out to a bunch of other places.
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Dec 11, 2014 15:51
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Evil Ted is great, the only thing I don't like is that he recommends using a standard box cutter for making cuts in EVA foam, instead of a hot knife, which is way easier to use and finishes the edges of the foam with heat while you cut it. http://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-29639-Professional-HotKnife/dp/B003GXF4EK
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Dec 12, 2014 00:05
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Got a bunch of work done on Sorceress Edea today, woo!   I did a vector mockup of the whole thing and printed off the parts I'd need to sculpt at full scale so I could do the worbla snakes right on top of them, been working really well so far. I have not yet used a new sheet of worbla for this project at all, the whole backplate will be sculpted out of scraps that I already had.
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Dec 15, 2014 00:56
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my cat is norris posted:I've found the guide(s) on this site to be pretty helpful: Bill was at Dragon Con this year with Harrison of Volpin, they were hilarious and really nice to talk with. Bill regularly does Q and As on Google Hangouts.
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Dec 15, 2014 05:06
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McPantserton posted:Got a bunch of work done on Sorceress Edea today, woo! Looking amazing as always. That is one thing I love about worbla is that you can use it until its gone.
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Dec 15, 2014 18:04
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(e): I was right, my original idea was too amibitious. However, does anyone know where I could source any fabric that looks like this? Gyro Zeppeli fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Dec 18, 2014 |
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Dec 18, 2014 11:15
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Why not just buy a brown robe and sow a bunch of créme stripes onto it?
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Dec 18, 2014 15:48
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So to my surprise, there's actually a fairly active and vibrant Brisbane cosplay community, I've been to a few meets and taken just a butt load of photos. Not so surprisingly, everyone has been super welcoming and positive and it's very cool when they tag themselves in an old gallery. It'll be fun tomorrow, small expo on in Brisbane and have a bunch of people who want me to take photos of them in their cosplay 
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Dec 19, 2014 09:33
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gonna need some help identifying something. Lucky for me there's some good tutorials for dante's sword. The bone things at the side of his sword are especially annoying to make. I found a good guide on how to make them. In his guide he includes this picture  anybody know what the hell are the things at each end of the gluestick? Sorry for the small image. Monaghan fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Dec 28, 2014 |
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Dec 28, 2014 00:18
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The bottom one looks like a PVC endcap with some kinda thingie glued to it. No idea what the top part is though. Wrapped insulation foam maybe?
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Dec 28, 2014 14:20
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This seems like this might be the best thread for my question. I'm starting to work on turning some nerf stuff into Borderlands 2 Maliwan style guns. What I can't find is any kind of guide for painting on plastic in layers. The only plastic spraypaint I can find locally now is Krylon Fusion, which I have a coat curing on a test piece. But I can't for the life of me find what would be safe to layer on top. Krylon just says clear coats won't work with it, so I thought another layer of white overtop, just using the fusion as a primer, so I could eventually clear coat it for durability. My question is has anyone overlayed Krylon Fusion with an enamel based paint like Rustoleum? Krylon is rare as hell here for anything past some basic colors, but there are tons of Rustoleum ones. Rustoleum does make a plastic primer, but the can I had ran out and I can't find anyone that carries it anymore. Hence trying with Krylon. I guess I may just have to continue to experiment, but I thought I'd see if anyone else has dealt with this before.
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Dec 29, 2014 02:09
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No clue man. If a paint says don't clear coat over it, it's a good idea never to do that. Either it's going to kill the look, or it's going to affect the paint below and turn it into a sludgy crackly mess. Also, found this, which I thought was a pretty good deal : https://www.etsy.com/listing/216197003/leds-for-beginners-for-cosplayers-by?ref=shop_home_active_1 It's a 5$ ebook that basically walks you through how to do lights and LEDs in your costume. A friend of mine pointed me towards it earlier. Thought someone would want to know how to do light up stuff as well.
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Dec 29, 2014 04:27
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I used a base coat of Krylon Fusion (covered with acrylic craft paint) sealed with Mod Podge clear gloss spray on some plastic Christmas ornaments last year, and other than some mild crazing on a few of them where I laid the gloss on a little thick, they were fine. No issues with durability or changing the color or anything like that. I'd recommend testing on a scrap piece of plastic first, though. (I was going to say it might depend on your climate, too, but turns out you're practically my neighbor, 'sup Chandler buddy.)
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Dec 29, 2014 06:56
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Last time I painted NERF stuff I ended up giving up and using vinyl dye instead.
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Dec 29, 2014 17:55
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So I have to make some superhero costumes for this corporate company. It includes some basic utility belts and some masks like the green arrow. I think maybe using EVA might be the easiest route. I don't know that the costumes are to be used more than for one or two events. Anyone have any advice on using foam for masks? I would assume back it with foam but are there other limitations for this? My other plan is to use vinyl since my sewing machine seems to have no problem sewing through it.
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Dec 29, 2014 22:29
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Squarely Circle posted:I used a base coat of Krylon Fusion (covered with acrylic craft paint) sealed with Mod Podge clear gloss spray on some plastic Christmas ornaments last year, and other than some mild crazing on a few of them where I laid the gloss on a little thick, they were fine. No issues with durability or changing the color or anything like that. I'd recommend testing on a scrap piece of plastic first, though. (I was going to say it might depend on your climate, too, but turns out you're practically my neighbor, 'sup Chandler buddy.)  Chandler!I've got an old plastic tote I'll experiment on. I did find I can order proper plastic primer from Home Depot. I'd have to get a case (6 cans) but with ship to store there are no shipping or hazmat fees. Liquid Communism posted:Last time I painted NERF stuff I ended up giving up and using vinyl dye instead. It's surprisingly hard to find locally. I'm trying to avoid ordering a ton of aerosol cans over the internet, they're a lot more expensive.
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Dec 29, 2014 22:43
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Happy new year everyone! Haven't posted in a while, but just wanted to share one of the big projects that I worked on last year. A Toothless costume from How to Train your Dragon.  On it's first test run to see how long the wearer could hold up inside. About 30 minutes before he needed to take a break.  Added detailing on the eyes and scales.   Lights! Final debut at the Singapore Toys, Games and Comics Convention!   With an awesome Hiccup and Valka!  And then this happened.
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Jan 1, 2015 11:44
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That is brilliant.
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Jan 1, 2015 19:23
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Awesome work!! I love that the eyes light up. Nice work on that Godzilla, too, whoever that is.
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Jan 2, 2015 14:56
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Well I am about to start up with Lapras again once I finish Hilda for PAX South. Then it's glue all the rhinestones. So question has anyone glued rhinestones before? I haven't and I figure before I just start slapping them on there I would see if anyone had tips for a first timer.
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Jan 6, 2015 02:50
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LadyRavenWaves posted:Well I am about to start up with Lapras again once I finish Hilda for PAX South. Then it's glue all the rhinestones. So question has anyone glued rhinestones before? I haven't and I figure before I just start slapping them on there I would see if anyone had tips for a first timer. I have a setter similar to this. The rhinestones have glue on the back of them. It works fairly well. http://www.amazon.com/Darice-2704-0...inestone+setter
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Jan 6, 2015 04:33
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Funhilde posted:I have a setter similar to this. The rhinestones have glue on the back of them. It works fairly well. Is that just for heat activated crystals or for both regular and heat ones?
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Jan 6, 2015 16:16
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LadyRavenWaves posted:Is that just for heat activated crystals or for both regular and heat ones? Just the heat ones as far as I know. My setter is a bit different. It is pretty easy though.
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Jan 6, 2015 17:40
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Funhilde posted:Just the heat ones as far as I know. My setter is a bit different. It is pretty easy though. Right now I don't have heat crystals as I found the non heat ones on sale and sense I needed so many I wanted to save some money. I'm currently just using an epoxy glue to put the crystals on. This is going to take forever. Where I am with the whole project.  The sheer blue panel will have a crystal at the center of each flower. So a total of 350 crystals just for the sheer layer. If I can find some in the right colors I will be adding them to the flowers and obi to tie it all in. After I finish the bleaching dots on the obi I need to do some darting to it so that it has the proper shape, and make it's top layer. I'm thinking about trying to alter the dye job on the obi to brighten the blue a bit as well looking back at the reference pic it's not nearly as bright as it should be. I have quite a lot of dye correction to do on the other panels but once that is done I start drawing out and painting all of the flowers. Here is hoping I am done by Matsuri.
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Jan 6, 2015 20:57
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drat, it's been an age since I posted here... I'm re-doing the embroidery I did at the beginning of the project, for multiple reasons. The worry I have is, the new thread I have is very delicate. If one thread breaks, I thing the whole section may just unravel. I'm lining everything anyway, so it shouldn't rub too much, but I was thinking of putting something on the reverse of the embroidery, like clear nail varnish, so that if a thread pops it'll stop the rest from coming undone. Anyone have any ideas/experience with this? Also, remind me to never work with velvet again. Seriously, gently caress this fabric, it's so annoying.
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Jan 9, 2015 12:58
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SusiePhone posted:drat, it's been an age since I posted here... I'm the farthest thing from a sewing person but what about an iron-on backing, just like fusible interfacing? Then you wouldn't have to worry about it soaking through. Otherwise I'd probably do a fabric glue before I did nail polish, I used a kind called Sobo that was really durable for one of my costumes. I haven't been posting much either but my Final Fantasy 8 Edea costume is nearing the home stretch, finally! Back thingie is done:  Helmet is probably 85% done, I need to finish a fan thingie, ear spiral, and front horn and then I'll be doing coats of woodglue to smooth out the texture.  Reference:  This costume is so weird and I don't know what to call any of the parts of it.
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Jan 9, 2015 15:06
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Looking good! Naw, couldn't iron it, the thread is plastic, and velvet hates heat. Fabric glue not a bad idea, though. I'll see what I can find. Cheers!
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Jan 9, 2015 15:30
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omg McPantserson, that Edea costume looks great so far. How heavy is that back piece? And do you have a whole group doing FF8 stuff? 
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Jan 9, 2015 19:12
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TheTofuShop posted:omg McPantserson, that Edea costume looks great so far. How heavy is that back piece? And do you have a whole group doing FF8 stuff? Ayyy thanks! It is super freaking light, I'm guessing maybe 5 pounds max? It's all mounted in a pine disc on the center back, then the spokes are hollow aluminum and the top parts are just plastic and craft foam so it's pretty durable but verrrrry light. I think my husband might go with me as Cid, which would be extra cute because I'll be wearing it for the first time on Valentine's Day, but otherwise it's just me!
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Jan 9, 2015 19:38
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