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mds2 posted:I've had this saw for a couple years and I'm pretty happy with it. It's accurate. I wish I would have gotten a slider though for the extra capacity. The hold down thing that comes with it is a joke and a complete design flaw. If you try to use the hold down you can't pull the saw all the way down to make a cut because the rod on the hold down hits the motor. On the CF12 version you can use the hold down on the non-motor side.
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Dec 31, 2014 22:07
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My dad got my brother in law and I both a dewalt 20v drill/impact set. I have been wanting to get an impact driver but it looks like that's been taken care of for me! Now I get to use them both helping my mom doing some remodeling at her house!
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Dec 31, 2014 23:18
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I got a bostitch 6 gallon compressor from my father in law for Christmas and when he was demonstrating it to me, he showed me his air gun. After returning home I bought a Kobalt branded air gun and it seems, well, leaky. The air pressure at the tip seems much lower than the one he had and a significant amount of air is lost via lateral holes on the air gun. Is this normal and I'm just misremembering the power of my f-i-l's air gun?
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Jan 1, 2015 16:55
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snickles posted:I got a bostitch 6 gallon compressor from my father in law for Christmas and when he was demonstrating it to me, he showed me his air gun. After returning home I bought a Kobalt branded air gun and it seems, well, leaky. The air pressure at the tip seems much lower than the one he had and a significant amount of air is lost via lateral holes on the air gun. Is this normal and I'm just misremembering the power of my f-i-l's air gun? When you say airgun, do you mean? Air Nailer Air Sprayer Air Impact Wrench Crossman BB Air gun?
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Jan 1, 2015 17:26
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tater_salad posted:When you say airgun, do you mean? 
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Jan 1, 2015 18:15
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tater_salad posted:When you say airgun, do you mean? http://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-5-Piece-Quick-Connect-Blow-Gun-Kit/50129860 I'm sorry I wasn't specific at all. We both kept referring to it as a blow gun so blame my naïveté. Edit-picked the wrong kit. Same blower, different tips. snickles fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Jan 1, 2015 |
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Jan 1, 2015 19:04
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If it's leaking out of the side its either not tight enough or its broken. Did you use Teflon tape on the joints? Were you using the same psi?
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Jan 1, 2015 19:40
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tater_salad posted:If it's leaking out of the side its either not tight enough or its broken. Did you use Teflon tape on the joints? I do not know what PSI he was using but increasing it only seems to increase the loss out of the sides. I don't understand the design of the nozzles but the air holes appear intentional. The threaded parts are taped and there isn't any leakage that I can tell. There doesn't appear to be leakage around the quick-fit connector either. If you look at the brass nozzle in this picture you can see some holes on the side well beyond what would be seated in the fitting. The extension nozzle also has these holes. The rubber tipped nozzle doesn't have these holes and has a more robust airflow. http://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-5-Piece-Quick-Connect-Blow-Gun-Kit/50129860
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Jan 1, 2015 20:05
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tater_salad posted:When you say airgun, do you mean? Hmm, what kind of pressure do CO2 BB guns run at? Might be economical (though hilariously dangerous) to make a refillable cylinder and use compressed air. Or just an adapter to run the hose into the gun, carnival-shooting-gallery-style.
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Jan 1, 2015 23:29
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Hmm, what kind of pressure do CO2 BB guns run at? Well liquid CO2 canisters are always right around 800psi in the bottle (until there's no more liquid left, of course) but I don't know about any internal regulators a particular device might have.
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Jan 1, 2015 23:59
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A mitre saw question. I'm buying one to do some new flooring, new baseboards, and build some furniture at a later point in time. Should I be going for a 12-inch blade, or a 10-inch? I just want to be sure that I'm not limiting myself in any way if I do decide on a 10-inch sliding mitre saw.
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Jan 2, 2015 05:21
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I would (and did) go with the 10" sliding, and have zero regrets. I find the blades are more readily available (and cheaper), it cuts everything I've ever needed to, and, as an added side bonus, my table saw also takes 10" blades, so if I need to buy a specialty blade, I only have to buy one. Granted, that doesn't happen often, but it has happened.
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Jan 2, 2015 06:10
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I'm looking at getting an impact driver that matches the Dewalt batteries I have, and need to choose between brushed (DCF885) and brushless (DCF886). From what I understand brushless uses less battery power, although I'm only using around the house so this isn't a huge concern. I have anecdotal advice that brushless is less likely to break and/or when brushed tools break it is usually just the brushes that need replacing whereas brushless the whole unit is basically trash. The local versions of these are priced around (Australian) $149 brushed and $169 brushless, although I have seen the brushed one on special for around $125. Any advice? I can't find any direct comparisons between them online.
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Jan 2, 2015 07:19
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Bad Munki posted:Well liquid CO2 canisters are always right around 800psi in the bottle (until there's no more liquid left, of course) but I don't know about any internal regulators a particular device might have. drat, looking it up, you're right. The lil' finger-sized BB-gun 12-gram cans are ... you don't want to drop a box of 'em. I suppose a 100psi feed would give about the same performance as when the CO2-powered gun is covered in frost from overly rapid fire. Wanna make a mortar -- drop an airgun CO2 cartridge down a 3/4"-ID pipe with a pin at the bottom, see how far it goes.
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Jan 2, 2015 12:07
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Bad Munki posted:I would (and did) go with the 10" sliding, and have zero regrets. I find the blades are more readily available (and cheaper), it cuts everything I've ever needed to, and, as an added side bonus, my table saw also takes 10" blades, so if I need to buy a specialty blade, I only have to buy one. Granted, that doesn't happen often, but it has happened. I laid 133mm wide 19mm thick hard wood flooring last year. I've a 10" slider too and it did the job fine.
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Jan 2, 2015 12:12
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snickles posted:I do not know what PSI he was using but increasing it only seems to increase the loss out of the sides. I don't understand the design of the nozzles but the air holes appear intentional. The threaded parts are taped and there isn't any leakage that I can tell. There doesn't appear to be leakage around the quick-fit connector either. If you look at the brass nozzle in this picture you can see some holes on the side well beyond what would be seated in the fitting. The extension nozzle also has these holes. The rubber tipped nozzle doesn't have these holes and has a more robust airflow. Those look dumb no clue why there are holes in the sides. If your fils set didnt have this then his would def be more powerful.
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Jan 2, 2015 13:18
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Delivery McGee posted:drat, looking it up, you're right. The lil' finger-sized BB-gun 12-gram cans are ... you don't want to drop a box of 'em. I suppose a 100psi feed would give about the same performance as when the CO2-powered gun is covered in frost from overly rapid fire. My dad converted a pistol when he was a kid. It took 8g cartridges, so he drilled an old one out, tapped it for 1/4" NPT, and put a barbed hose fitting in it. Then he drilled through the end cap that held the cartridge in, for the hose to pass through. He said it worked fine for the cheap pistol he was using. I made an air cannon once that could run off of an air compressor or 12g cartridges. I had a 1-1/2" barrel for potatoes or other large objects, and a 3/4" barrel for smaller, heavier things. Like used 12g cartridges. I could get them to go pretty far, but I would think with the escaping gas it would fly very erratically. I preferred using the air compressor, though. It used a cartridge up per shot, and that added up quickly.
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Jan 2, 2015 14:45
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melon cat posted:A mitre saw question. I'm buying one to do some new flooring, new baseboards, and build some furniture at a later point in time. Should I be going for a 12-inch blade, or a 10-inch? I just want to be sure that I'm not limiting myself in any way if I do decide on a 10-inch sliding mitre saw. Limited experience post, but I got a 12" and it's probably overkill for what I'm doing (simple tables so far) and it's quite large. I suppose if I ever need to build a deck it will come in handy. If you have the space and don't mind spending more on blades I would assume you'll be fine with a 12" but I wouldn't think you'll need it for flooring and baseboards.
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Jan 2, 2015 16:15
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snickles posted:I got a bostitch 6 gallon compressor from my father in law for Christmas and when he was demonstrating it to me, he showed me his air gun. After returning home I bought a Kobalt branded air gun and it seems, well, leaky. The air pressure at the tip seems much lower than the one he had and a significant amount of air is lost via lateral holes on the air gun. Is this normal and I'm just misremembering the power of my f-i-l's air gun? Those holes are supposed to be a safety feature. I'm not sure what they protect against, but they're OSHA standard. I can't stand that type of air gun. There is no control over pressure and they're uncomfortable to use. Get something like this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO6E1E
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Jan 2, 2015 16:33
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oxbrain posted:Those holes are supposed to be a safety feature. I'm not sure what they protect against, but they're OSHA standard. Air-injection injuries, I guess? But yeah they're very much intentional and not much you can do about them other than not use that tip or just use a different airgun like that one. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, I'm quite happy with this set: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-blow-gun-set-68260.html
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Jan 2, 2015 16:36
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MrPete posted:
I have to digress, well somewhat... If you have a proper shop with a miter station then sure, you're limited by space. BUT... I'm a big proponent of mobile stands. I have a 10" Makita slider, a 12" Ridgid slider and a 12" Bosch fixed and have all three on permanently mounted on Ridgid mobile miter stands. When folded up vertically, they have about a 24" footprint and you can store them up against a wall or in a shed (which is what I do). Seriously, I love the poo poo out of these stands. I picked up each of mine on CL for like $50 a piece. There's also the A-frame style universal stands but i'm not a big fan of those 
Sointenly fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 18:57
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I'm trying to connect my shop vac up to my table saw dust collection port, but I can't find an adapter for it. The dust port is 2.5" and the shop vac is 1.25". All of the connecters I can find are for connecting 2.5" hoses to 1.25" hoses. And so don't fit. I was hoping to just find something that connects right up to the dust port. Am I going to have to buy connective hose to do this? Or does someone know of a magical connector that I'm not able to find?
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Jan 2, 2015 22:40
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Doctor Zero posted:I'm trying to connect my shop vac up to my table saw dust collection port, but I can't find an adapter for it. The dust port is 2.5" and the shop vac is 1.25". All of the connecters I can find are for connecting 2.5" hoses to 1.25" hoses. And so don't fit. I was hoping to just find something that connects right up to the dust port. Am I going to have to buy connective hose to do this? Or does someone know of a magical connector that I'm not able to find? Not knowing anything about what the parts look like, what about a PVC pipe adapter? Or is that what you mean by hoses?
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Jan 2, 2015 22:57
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Doctor Zero posted:I'm trying to connect my shop vac up to my table saw dust collection port, but I can't find an adapter for it. The dust port is 2.5" and the shop vac is 1.25". All of the connecters I can find are for connecting 2.5" hoses to 1.25" hoses. And so don't fit. I was hoping to just find something that connects right up to the dust port. Am I going to have to buy connective hose to do this? Or does someone know of a magical connector that I'm not able to find? Have you seen Apollo 13?
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Jan 2, 2015 22:59
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Crotch Fruit posted:Lineman's pliers can't cut up close to something, like I particularly like to use diagonal cutters to snip zip ties off packages (hard on scissors). Tongue and groove or channel lock could replace slip joint, but they are a lot bigger, heavier and more expensive. Actually, I am not really sure what channel locks are good for. I mean I'm sure they are good at grabbing pipe (which I rarely do), but I use slip joint pliers to either pinch items or hold small nuts and bolts, for anything a slip joint can't handle I would prefer a wrench instead of channel locks. SkunkDuster posted:If I had to make a choice, I would go with a slip joint instead of a linesman. Linesman pliers have poo poo for grip on bolts and nuts and there are a lot of times when you need to get at one and don't have room to get in there with a T&G/arc joint/channel lock pliers. Get a diagonal cutter for general snipping and a small bolt cutter for more serious chomping. asdf32 posted:Basically yes. I'd include right angle needle nose instead of regular needle nose. I also go these for $5 http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Locking-Pliers-Set-2-Piece-96892/204406262 since cheapest long nose alternative is a single Husky pliers for $9. $20 to cover all my bases seems decent.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:04
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Doctor Zero posted:Limited experience post, but I got a 12" and it's probably overkill for what I'm doing (simple tables so far) and it's quite large. I suppose if I ever need to build a deck it will come in handy. If you have the space and don't mind spending more on blades I would assume you'll be fine with a 12" but I wouldn't think you'll need it for flooring and baseboards. Also, if I get a 12" mitre saw, is there any reason at all to keep a my DeWalt circular saw? I find that the circular saw is good for quick cuts, but it's never really accurate enough to get a squared edge.
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Jan 3, 2015 00:14
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melon cat posted:Well, I won't eliminate the possibility that I might put together a new deck at some point in the future. So maybe it's best that I go with the 12" saw. I'd rather feel like I had "too much" instead of not having enough. Keep the circ saw, it serves an entirely different purpose. Re: Hose adapter, you can make a wood version in minutes to at least tide you over. Just google it, lots of people make them.
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Jan 3, 2015 00:21
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oxbrain posted:Those holes are supposed to be a safety feature. I'm not sure what they protect against, but they're OSHA standard. Yeah, the vent holes on the sides are required for a couple of reasons. An air nozzle used to clean/blow stuff off isn't supposed to operate beyond a certain amount of PSI (I want to say 30 but I could be mistaken) and the holes help regulate that. They are also there to prevent your hand or other body parts from exploding in the event of your tip getting clogged or dead ended. If your nozzle feels weak, then it's probably in need of some tape or a fitting needs to be tightened (or just buy a new nozzle) because it's not really from those holes.
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Jan 3, 2015 00:28
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Falco posted:Not knowing anything about what the parts look like, what about a PVC pipe adapter? Or is that what you mean by hoses? Yeah kind of. But then... Erwin posted:Have you seen Apollo 13? Derp. The answer was sitting right in front of my face.
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Jan 4, 2015 06:49
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Are airtools actually useful for woodworking? I'm certain a rattle gun would be useless, I could see using a spray gun for finish and an air nailer might be nice but not used enough to justify purchasing a compressor. I am tempted to get a compressor, but honestly I think the main reason I want one is so that I can air up my tires in the garage instead of driving to the nearby gas station in -20F with high wind to spot either a half dozen cars lined up or discover the air is out of order.
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Jan 4, 2015 17:14
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melon cat posted:Well, I won't eliminate the possibility that I might put together a new deck at some point in the future. So maybe it's best that I go with the 12" saw. I'd rather feel like I had "too much" instead of not having enough. I built 2 decks over the summer with a 10" miter and it was such a pain. Unless you enjoy flipping posts and 2x8s and get uneven cuts, get a bigger one. Or rent it.
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Jan 4, 2015 17:37
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Crotch Fruit posted:Are airtools actually useful for woodworking? I'm certain a rattle gun would be useless, I could see using a spray gun for finish and an air nailer might be nice but not used enough to justify purchasing a compressor. I am tempted to get a compressor, but honestly I think the main reason I want one is so that I can air up my tires in the garage instead of driving to the nearby gas station in -20F with high wind to spot either a half dozen cars lined up or discover the air is out of order. I bought a compressor just to have a pin nailer and the ability to air up tires. It's totally worth it. That said, I bought a teeny tiny one that can't do much more than that so it wasn't a huge investment.
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Jan 4, 2015 18:10
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I use my compressor for blowing dust off the workpiece very often.
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Jan 4, 2015 18:19
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wormil posted:Keep the circ saw, it serves an entirely different purpose. internet inc posted:I built 2 decks over the summer with a 10" miter and it was such a pain. Unless you enjoy flipping posts and 2x8s and get uneven cuts, get a bigger one. Or rent it. As for the rental issue- I'm finding tool rental costs to be really high. Usually around $150/day for things like mitre saw and wet saws. And if you're using it for the entire weekend, you'll end up spending a stupid amount on just renting the darned thing.
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Jan 4, 2015 18:49
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melon cat posted:I'm not doubting the validity of your statement or anything, but what can a circular saw do that a miter saw can't? I'm only asking because every application that I've tried to use a circular saw for (cutting baseboards and laminate flooring, cutting scrap wood to make small furniture) would've been done so much faster and accurately had I used a mitre saw. I've used my circular saw to trim tree branches, because I'm too dumb to get a pruning saw. Let's see your mitre saw do that! Also, cutting plywood sheet or other long cuts like ripping a 2x8 into a 2x6 etc.. Doing cuts in place also (like framing work) where you can't take the work to the saw. I'm sure there are a bunch more applications, but I don't do much of any full-size wood working, so those are the ones I could think of.
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Jan 4, 2015 19:05
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melon cat posted:I'm not doubting the validity of your statement or anything, but what can a circular saw do that a miter saw can't? I'm only asking because every application that I've tried to use a circular saw for (cutting baseboards and laminate flooring, cutting scrap wood to make small furniture) would've been done so much faster and accurately had I used a mitre saw. Rip cuts. Basically. Any cut over its max width in length. I'd like to see you break down an 8 foot by 4 foot sheet of plywood with the mitre saw.
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Jan 4, 2015 21:34
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I used my circular saw to cut dadoes once before I had a table saw. And this week I used it sorta like a router to trim up my new workbench I've been working on.
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Jan 4, 2015 22:06
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In addition to what's been said about circ saws, you can build your deck then cut all the ends flush rather than cutting each board and try to line them up.
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Jan 4, 2015 22:28
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Plus you can bevel the edge of a board, cut tapers, cut holes in floors/walls/etc, cut rabbets, and if you're really in a bind, you can put an abrasive blade in and cut metal or masonry.
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Jan 5, 2015 00:23
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Crotch Fruit posted:Are airtools actually useful for woodworking? I'm certain a rattle gun would be useless, I could see using a spray gun for finish and an air nailer might be nice but not used enough to justify purchasing a compressor. I am tempted to get a compressor, but honestly I think the main reason I want one is so that I can air up my tires in the garage instead of driving to the nearby gas station in -20F with high wind to spot either a half dozen cars lined up or discover the air is out of order. Air compressor is so useful, I bought a cheap 2.5 HP (<$150) Compressor and use if for so many different things. I'd imagine a small brad gun or staple would be useful for woodworking, if your doing any sort of building work a large framing gun speeds things up considerably. There is also the advantage of having an air blower to dedust things quick. Really handy for automotive work even if it's just changing a tyre, checking tyre pressures etc. When I think about it's probably one of the best investments I made for my work shed, but I do like to DIY everything so of course i'd find a use for it.
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Jan 5, 2015 00:43
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