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Is there a relitivly inexpensive way to filter the beer. I love Wheat Beers. When I was in Germany kristallweizen was some of my favorite. It have the flavor of a wheat bear, but was a bit lighter in the old tummy.
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Dec 31, 2014 03:04
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jadeddrifter posted:Is there a relitivly inexpensive way to filter the beer. I love Wheat Beers. When I was in Germany kristallweizen was some of my favorite. It have the flavor of a wheat bear, but was a bit lighter in the old tummy. Try Gelatin fining. you may be able to get what you;'re looking for without having to go into full on filtering.
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Dec 31, 2014 03:41
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Zaepho posted:Try Gelatin fining. you may be able to get what you;'re looking for without having to go into full on filtering. I have never heard of this before. I will have to try it. hopefully it works
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Dec 31, 2014 04:23
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jadeddrifter posted:Is there a relitivly inexpensive way to filter the beer. I love Wheat Beers. When I was in Germany kristallweizen was some of my favorite. It have the flavor of a wheat bear, but was a bit lighter in the old tummy. you can usually get a 1 micron level inline filter for around $70 iirc that's about what I paid for mine. it rarely gets used, mainly if im doing a lager and have need for my fridge to not be lagering.
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Dec 31, 2014 05:57
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Mother fucker After I emptied my first keg on Halloween I left the second one in because it had a little bit left. That one was polished off the next day in short order. I had opened it a week later and pulled an empty and everything was fine. Went to look now and there's about a half inch of orangish liquid with mold. What the actual gently caress? A theory would be the dregs of the left over keg leaked out but that was a saison and in my original keg which had sat full for months without a problem. So pissed that I have to clean up this gross liquid. Of course I also have to disassemble and clean/replace the lines as well because I didn't push any cleaner through them. What kegging makes up in lack of bottling it adds in cleaning and being careful I guess.
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Dec 31, 2014 06:25
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At least you aren't cleaning 50 or 100 moldy bottles.
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Dec 31, 2014 06:33
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Secret Santa turned up! 2liter / 68fl oz growler  Bells bottle opener, and that vinyl sticker made me lol hard. Think I might put it on my 60liter fermenter (on the outside of course). Thanks!  Yours should be there before February. Will send half from Canada to save on the weight of the ingredients and some some  stuff direct from goon to goon, got most the stuff sorted out already!
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Dec 31, 2014 10:11
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Well, I finished my very first Outdoors brew on Saturday. Had to dig an ancient propane tank out of the shed and exchange it (which went much better than expected). But my new DarkStar burner worked great, and I'm so happy to be brewing outside, even though it is getting colder. I made the Buffalo Sweat (Oatmeal milk stout) kit from Northern brewer but I changed the late addition hops out to a different kind. Smelled great!  IMG_0568 by david.doucette_1989, on FlickrI even had my first boilover. Just a small tiny boilover.  IMG_0569 by david.doucette_1989, on FlickrUnfortunately I got horrid efficiency again (BIAB). Next batch I'm going to introduce a dunk sparge in hopes of hitting 70%. If I get more efficiency it will just be a strong Pale Ale and I can hope to repeat it in the future. Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 17:22
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Finished my imperial stout at 1100  I had a dumb moment, I had left the bag to drain over a bucket and realised there was a good 2-3 litres of drain off in the bucket which I dumped in at about 20 mins off the end of the boil, so it diluted it slightly. Theoretically if I hadn't done it probably would've finished around 1105 or so  so here's hoping WLP028 attenuates hard for a good boozy 10%!
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Jan 1, 2015 15:34
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McSpergin posted:Finished my imperial stout at 1100 Maybe this is a dumb question, but what units are those gravity readings in? Is it just specific gravity * 1000?
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Jan 1, 2015 16:28
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Seph posted:Maybe this is a dumb question, but what units are those gravity readings in? Is it just specific gravity * 1000? Hey yeah, SG x 1000. I work as an engineer so I'm used to speaking in terms of density rather than specific gravity. That and I was lazy and didn't type the .'s
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Jan 1, 2015 17:17
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So I don't think I've ever actually bragged about a beer I've done but...I have to now. I finished a clone of Deschutes' Fresh Squeezed IPA today. This is prohibitively the best beer I've ever made and one of the best beers I've ever had, period. Recipe is courtesy of some random homebrewtalk thread then adjusted by goons, so thank you to whoever had input into it. HOME BREW RECIPE: Title: Fresh Squeezed IPA Clone Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: American IPA Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 7.4 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.047 Efficiency: 60% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.064 Final Gravity: 1.018 ABV (standard): 6.03% IBU (tinseth): 60.77 SRM (morey): 11.66 FERMENTABLES: 13.5 lb - American - Pale 2-Row (84.4%) 1 lb - American - Munich - Light 10L (6.3%) 1 lb - American - Caramel / Crystal 75L (6.3%) 8 oz - American - Wheat (3.1%) HOPS: 1 oz - Nugget, Type: Pellet, AA: 14, Use: First Wort, IBU: 29.99 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 14.11 1 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 16.67 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 0 min 1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 18 qt, Water Temp: 170 2) Temp: 170 F, Amount: 20 qt, Water Temp: 190 Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb OTHER INGREDIENTS: 1 each - whirlfloc, Type: Fining, Use: Boil YEAST: Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05 Starter: Yes Form: Dry Attenuation (avg): 72% Flocculation: Medium Optimum Temp: 59 - 75 F Fermentation Temp: 68 F Pitch Rate: 1.0 (M cells / ml / deg P) NOTES: 3 L starter Dry Hop 1 oz citra in secondary
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Jan 1, 2015 20:48
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bewbies posted:
Hold on, just out of curiosity you did a starter with dry US05? Any particular reason? I usually just throw as many packets as beersmith tells me, mainly because it's cheap as chips but I'd be curious to see why you did a starter.
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Jan 2, 2015 02:29
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I always just throw dry yeast straight into the fermenter. My last brew was an IPA with US05 and I had to put a blow off tube on a few hours after pitching. I've never had any problems with slow starts using US05.
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Jan 2, 2015 03:01
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HatfulOfHollow posted:I always just throw dry yeast straight into the fermenter. My last brew was an IPA with US05 and I had to put a blow off tube on a few hours after pitching. I've never had any problems with slow starts using US05. Aren't you supposed to hydrate the yeast first? I remember reading that the dry yeast needs to be hydrated before pitching or else it will take in too much sugar and die when it absorbs the wort.
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Jan 2, 2015 07:19
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The instruction on the packet say "sprinkle into wort".
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Jan 2, 2015 07:22
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If I recall correctly, danstar says to hydrate, while fermentis says not to. I'd assume that the difference would be small (outside of super high OG situations, in which case you probably would have made a starter or pitched onto cake anyway)
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Jan 2, 2015 09:25
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What are peoples thoughts on an Ale with Pilsner malt. A hoppy Pilsner Ale if you would. Beyond the 90 Minute boil, what else can I expect from Pilsner malt w/ Ale yeast. And should I add any specialty grain or just do 100% Pilsner malt?
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Jan 2, 2015 14:17
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Marshmallow Blue posted:What are peoples thoughts on an Ale with Pilsner malt. A hoppy Pilsner Ale if you would. Pilsner malt will be very light with a slight breadiness. It's very pleasant. Ales I've done that were mostly pilsner malt include Saisons, Belgian Golden Strong, and Hefeweizen (50/50 pils and wheat).
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Jan 2, 2015 15:45
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I've done ales that were 80% Pilsner, 20% carapils, lightly hopped and fermented with Brett on cardamom and blackberries. Delicious. I think I sent one to ieatsoap in the 2013 secret Santa.
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Jan 2, 2015 16:44
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Marshmallow Blue posted:What are peoples thoughts on an Ale with Pilsner malt. A hoppy Pilsner Ale if you would. My most well received beer is a really simple kölsch with just a straight pilsner malt bill. Depending on what your intended style is, maybe 10-20% specialty/wheat malt for head retention or complexity, but 100% pils works just fine.
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Jan 2, 2015 18:02
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Nanpa posted:If I recall correctly, danstar says to hydrate, while fermentis says not to. I'd assume that the difference would be small (outside of super high OG situations, in which case you probably would have made a starter or pitched onto cake anyway) http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_S04.pdf "rehydration instructions Sprinkle the yeast in minimum 10 times its weight of sterile water or wort at 27°C ± 3°C (80°F ± 6°F). Leave to rest 15 to 30 minutes. Gently stir for 30 minutes, and pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel. Alternatively, pitch the yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20°C (68°F). Progressively sprinkle the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes, then mix the wort using aeration or by wort addition." A while ago I wrote kind of a long summary of the dry yeast handling portion of White and Zainasheff's book. I'm on my way out the door so I can't find it right this second, but basically just adding it straight to the wort works well because dry yeast has more than twice the number of cells as a vial, so even if you kill off half of them you've still got more viable cells than a typical vial. Don't make a starter with dry yeast though, because they're specifically made to hit the ground running. A starter just wastes all their built-in stores.
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Jan 2, 2015 18:17
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Ok thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to pull the trigger on my current recipe plan.code:
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Jan 2, 2015 18:21
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McSpergin posted:Hold on, just out of curiosity you did a starter with dry US05? Any particular reason? I usually just throw as many packets as beersmith tells me, mainly because it's cheap as chips but I'd be curious to see why you did a starter. I almost always make a starter, probably more habit than anything. I feel like I get better results with starters and I use dry yeast almost exclusively.
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Jan 2, 2015 18:26
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Had the semi-traditional Happy New Beer brewday yesterday at a friend's house. Four brewers participated, so we had four rigs going in parallel. We did a total of 35 gallons of beer and 10 of cider between us. What a great hobby.
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Jan 2, 2015 18:30
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bewbies posted:I almost always make a starter, probably more habit than anything. I feel like I get better results with starters and I use dry yeast almost exclusively. Starter or rehydrate? Because there's no reason to make a starter with dry yeast, the cell count is already sufficient
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Jan 2, 2015 19:02
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Jermaine Dildoe posted:Starter or rehydrate? Because there's no reason to make a starter with dry yeast, the cell count is already sufficient Starter. For 5.5 gallon batches of mid and heavy ales using 04 and 05 yeasts I think there's a noticeable difference between using a starter and not. Shrug.
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Jan 2, 2015 19:46
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Sokrateez posted:My most well received beer is a really simple kölsch with just a straight pilsner malt bill. Depending on what your intended style is, maybe 10-20% specialty/wheat malt for head retention or complexity, but 100% pils works just fine. This is 100% true for me too. I've brewed complex sours, oak aged quads, all kinds of crazy/boss stuff and most people were all up on the Kolsch.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:33
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Jacobey000 posted:This is 100% true for me too. I've brewed complex sours, oak aged quads, all kinds of crazy/boss stuff and most people were all up on the Kolsch. It's so true. I went to a hoppy beer festival with 30 New England Breweries and each had 3-4 beers ranging all across the hop spectrum. And one of the greatest things was a simple balanced hop Pilsner malt based beer.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:36
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So I am going to be making my first starter later (wyeast 1450 denny's fav 50) any tips? When using the DME am I suppose to use extra dme or just a portion of what the recipe calls for? Going to be brewing on Sunday so hopefully it's enough time to get it going.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:36
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Jacobey000 posted:This is 100% true for me too. I've brewed complex sours, oak aged quads, all kinds of crazy/boss stuff and most people were all up on the Kolsch. For me it's my blondes. I can do all sorts of weird/experimental/complex stuff but I HAVE to keep my blonde on hand / on tap at all times lest the visitors get restless.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:44
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Harminoff posted:So I am going to be making my first starter later (wyeast 1450 denny's fav 50) any tips? When using the DME am I suppose to use extra dme or just a portion of what the recipe calls for? Going to be brewing on Sunday so hopefully it's enough time to get it going. Extra.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:45
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Harminoff posted:So I am going to be making my first starter later (wyeast 1450 denny's fav 50) any tips? When using the DME am I suppose to use extra dme or just a portion of what the recipe calls for? Going to be brewing on Sunday so hopefully it's enough time to get it going. Extra, the starter is not part of the calculations for the sugar content/etc for the beer itself. In fact you can decant the majority of the "Beer" produced in the starter leaving just enough to be able to pour the resulting Sludgy Yeasty Goodness into the fermenter. Although when i was looking at doing 3BBL batches, I was planning to make a starter for a 10 Gallon batch of the beer and then dump the whole 10 gallon beer into the 3BBL fermenter as a starter and make up for a little loss in transfers/racking.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:48
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Well poo poo. Guess I'll not use a starter and just hope for the best then  I also have some dry windsor yeast. How hosed up would it be to just throw that in as well? Making a milk stout.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:51
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Harminoff posted:Well poo poo. Guess I'll not use a starter and just hope for the best then You probably don't need to be mixing yeasts. If I recall right, one will just grow faster and you won't get combined profiles.
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Jan 2, 2015 22:00
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Whats your planned OG? Smack Packs are usually OK to pitch by themselves up to 1.060 or so.
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Jan 2, 2015 22:03
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Harminoff posted:Well poo poo. Guess I'll not use a starter and just hope for the best then Go with just the yeast you planned unless you know you're WAY under pitching. If you're under pitching but not terribly, go ahead ad re-hydrate to maintain as much yeast viability into the wort at the beginning. Worst case, you'll have beer! 
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Jan 2, 2015 22:04
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j3rkstore posted:Whats your planned OG? Smack Packs are usually OK to pitch by themselves up to 1.060 or so. 1.052 so I'll just pitch it. Thanks for the help everyone!
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Jan 2, 2015 22:10
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It's gotten cold and my basement is a relatively constant 52 degrees. I don't have a fermentation chamber. I've been doing ales but I think that's a bit low for ales and yet it's too high for lagers (or at least for the conditioning phase of lagers?). What should I brew? What yeast would be happiest?
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Jan 2, 2015 22:23
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toe knee hand posted:It's gotten cold and my basement is a relatively constant 52 degrees. I don't have a fermentation chamber. I've been doing ales but I think that's a bit low for ales and yet it's too high for lagers (or at least for the conditioning phase of lagers?). What should I brew? What yeast would be happiest? 52? Yeah you're stuck in lager territory there. You could make a nice dunkel. Bohemian lager yeast has been kindest to me so far with my cold-but-not-controlled temperatures (2124) but you'll need some kind of diacetyl rest at a warmer spot.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:05
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