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wormil posted:You've never used a Coleman lantern or stove? Same principle. Yeah, I have, but they've nearly always been propane. Nice threaded connectors, gas regulators, heavy gauge steel. Leather gaskets for gasoline torches just don't give me a warm fuzzy.
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Dec 6, 2014 05:43
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Hu Fa Ted posted:Yeah, I have, but they've nearly always been propane. Nice threaded connectors, gas regulators, heavy gauge steel. Leather gaskets for gasoline torches just don't give me a warm fuzzy. Not the propane type, this type that run on Coleman fuel or gas: http://smile.amazon.com/Coleman-Two...coleman+lantern http://smile.amazon.com/Coleman-Burner-Compact-Liquid-Stove/dp/B0009PUPX8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417844561&sr=8-2&keywords=coleman+stove If rubber cracks/dry rots it must be replaced but leather can be reconstituted by soaking in oil. I've also used hand lotions and oils to get Coleman lanterns working again in the field. In any case, the leather never comes in contact with the fuel, it's part of the air pump plunger. I have some rubber gasket material if I can't get the leather working again, I'll just replace it. And if the leather thing bothers you, don't google how to light a gasoline torch or your butthole might pucker so tightly it turns you inside out.
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Dec 6, 2014 07:15
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wormil posted:[D]on't google how to light a gasoline torch or your butthole might pucker so tightly it turns you inside out. Let's have the top end of this torch sit in the flame of an open puddle of gasoline for five minutes before turning it on. Sounds top. I love old blowtorches and, in general, all self-vaporizing burners. I've burned tens of gallons of white gas through an MSR Whisperlite that has the same startup procedure. Pump. Crack the fuel valve. Let liquid fuel spill out EVERYWHERE. CLOSE FUEL VALVE OMG WTF THERE'S GAS EVERYWHERE. Light on fire. Let burn until it's nearly out. Crack the fuel valve. Hope your top end is hot enough to vaporize fuel, otherwise, there's flame going on while LIQUID FUEL IS SPILLING OUT EVERYWHERE (Goto step 2 or 3 or whatever FIRE EVERYWHERE THE FUEL BOTTLE IS ON FIRE!!!). Good times.
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Dec 6, 2014 07:47
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Well, if you guys say its safe.  I detect a faint whiff of sarcasm over by babyeatingpsychopath, could also be the gasoline fumes. I'll stick to my propane and oxacetylene fuels. Raw milk used to be safe and people used bacon rinds for bearing caps on model T's too. 
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Dec 6, 2014 16:30
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If you google blow torch accidents they are mostly stories of oxyacetylene torches, so gasoline torches are safer! babyeatingpsychopath posted:LIQUID FUEL IS SPILLING OUT EVERYWHERE  Okay, I'm out of fire related emoticons. On a serious note, if I never post again it's because I died in a gasoline fueled explosion.
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Dec 6, 2014 19:13
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I rock a paraffin lamp for heat/light on my boat in the winter and I have a 40's wartime dated blowlamp in the workshop, they're both super reliable and honestly quite safe. Use the fuel it's designed for and you'll be surprised at how effective these things are. Refresh the gaskets and try a just a shot measure of methylated spirit in it. You Americans might call it denatured alcohol? Don't use gasoline. I also use an acetylene (carbide) EDIT: Oh and for pre heating you can just stuff a little rock wool in the burner and squirt a bit of alcohol on that, let it burn down. No need to squirt pressurised fuel everywhere. Even better, use a pre-heater that clips around the stem: http://www.tilleylamp.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=43&osCsid=jf853f3lkeqe0fvre883q290b3 ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Dec 8, 2014 |
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Dec 8, 2014 10:24
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I have a question for you guys. I have ended up with an Atlas 10" x48" metal lathe and the following partial list of tooling and accessories. I'd like to unload all of it, but I'm not sure what I should ask. I know what I paid for it, but I'm pretty sure it's worth more than that. Everything works fine, I just don't have much use for a metal lathe as it turns out. Any guesses on what it's worth? -Lathe proper (Lead screw is in ok shape, some wear, I have a spare set of apron jaws), no real corrosion, some wobble in the tailstock -a 3-jaw and a 4-jaw chuck -3 Drill-type chucks -full set tapping gears -couple dead centers, couple live -faceplate -3 lathe dogs, I don't think any of them actually fit the faceplate though -toolpost (old style, not quick-change) -3 tool holders that fit the toolpost -about a dozen tool holders that are too big for the existing toolpost -2? carbide bit holders -a small box of carbide bits, most of them are chipped though, probly means they're worthless right? -maybe 20 round boring bar-type toolbits -A boring bar holder -A shitton of old-style carbide tooling (maybe 30 lbs) -A shitton of old-style HSS tooling (probably 50 lbs) -A bunch of miscellaneous stuff that is definitely related to the lathe but drat if I know what it does Any ideas on price? Should I sell it in one lot or try and split it up?
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Dec 8, 2014 17:28
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Uncle Enzo posted:I have a question for you guys. I have ended up with an Atlas 10" x48" metal lathe and the following partial list of tooling and accessories. I'd like to unload all of it, but I'm not sure what I should ask. I know what I paid for it, but I'm pretty sure it's worth more than that. Everything works fine, I just don't have much use for a metal lathe as it turns out. Any guesses on what it's worth? By carbide bits, you mean indexable carbide? If all the cutting edges are chipped, the inserts are scrap. But it's scrap that goes $20 per pound. See if your local metal recycler will take it. Same goes for the "old-style carbide tooling", if you can't find anyone to buy it, though I'm not sure what you'll get per pound since they have to separate and sort it.
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Dec 8, 2014 19:21
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Uncle Enzo posted:snip For whatever reason, some people think those lathes are just the bee's knees and will buy those things over other bench lathes that don't have timken bearings in the headstock. I guess they love potmetal handles and fine Sears lowest bidder craftsmanship . I'd find somebody (not a friend) local to buy the lathe for somewhere north of $1200 (gently caress shipping that thing, and budge on the price) and then hock the rest of the crap on ebay if that's your thing. If you find a discerning buyer who knows what slop in the tail stock means, sweeten the pot with the chuck or some tooling.
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Dec 8, 2014 23:18
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WerrWaaa posted:Off chance, but is there anyone in here in Southern California? I have done some work with my dad in his smithy, back in Indiana, but I'd like to get serious about learning blackmithing skills. I am not in SoCal, but I do know of some places to forge down there. Where are you?
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Dec 9, 2014 07:08
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Hu Fa Ted posted:For whatever reason, some people think those lathes are just the bee's knees and will buy those things over other bench lathes that don't have timken bearings in the headstock. I guess they love potmetal handles and fine Sears lowest bidder craftsmanship Agreed. I was at an estate sale a few weekends back and I saw the same lathe you're describing, minus tooling, priced at $1300. According to the fellow running the sale, all the tooling sold within the first few hours (for a few hundred, if that). But the lathe itself had little interest. I'm not sure it sold, as I swear I saw it listed on CL for $900 the next week. There's more details needed, but $1200 as a lot might be a good deal for someone who knows what they are doing. Otherwise it's just more junk to sort through and try to sell. I don't know about you, but my time is more valuable then listing 100 pieces of tooling on ebay for a buck or two.
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Dec 9, 2014 10:00
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One note on used machine tooling. Old cutters can be a good deal, especially if they have some or all of the original wax dip/coating. Don't ever pay too much for old vices and chucks. Think scrap value + 5% if that. There is nothing worse than getting some bitch wore out chuck that came out of industry and paying too much for it and finding it's out over 25 thousandths. Didn't happen to me, but to an acquaintance. I paid attention to the geezer who said not to buy old chucks.
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Dec 9, 2014 11:57
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Since we are talking about machine tools more, our little machine shop is coming together nicely. 1962 Bridgeport J-Head with VFD/Powerfeel (need a knee power feed and a Digital Read Out) 1978 Bridgeport Series 2 NC (Working on retrofit) 1967 Rockwell 14" Lathe 1965 Do-All 36" Bandsaw Jet 7x12 Horizontal Bandsaw MillerMatic 252 Dynasty 200DX with water-cooled CK torch Hypertherm PM45 Want list: Surface Grinder, DRO for Bridgeport, and lots of tooling/measurement gear.  Also, I fixed my water cooler tonight:   I can't wait to learn TIG brazing with aluminum bronze this weekend. the spyder fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Dec 10, 2014 |
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Dec 10, 2014 08:01
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Speaking of lathes, I've been lurking in this thread for a while, and was wondering if anyone could give me an idea of a price for a smallish lathe. All I've got any sort of experience with is the Chin Hungs my school(BCIT) has. I'm up in Canada, obviously, if it matters. Edit: the reason I'm going to BCIT is straight up for machining. Manual machining might be dying out, but it's fascinating as hell to me. Plus, I like making things by hand. MohawkSatan fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Dec 10, 2014 |
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Dec 10, 2014 08:12
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the spyder posted:Since we are talking about machine tools more, our little machine shop is coming together nicely. Nice set up, I should clean my shop up to be that neat / well laid out. Put your future surface grinder in the shed though, that little room would be more than happy to deposit grit all over your ways. Is that the head for NC machine on the engine stand back there?
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Dec 10, 2014 14:21
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MohawkSatan posted:Speaking of lathes, I've been lurking in this thread for a while, and was wondering if anyone could give me an idea of a price for a smallish lathe. All I've got any sort of experience with is the Chin Hungs my school(BCIT) has. I'm up in Canada, obviously, if it matters. You should be able to scare up something, are you thinking bench lathe like a SB 9"? I paid $900 for my first SB 9" (pictures way back in this thread, in 2006 I think?) that was in really good condition for a lathe that was cast in 1890. The Chinese little lathes are retail of course, and opinions vary on them. I haven't been impressed. For something you need a forklift for, my Sheldon 13" was $3000 and that was also in pristine condition. Sometimes they come up for the price of "get it out of here" as the big green lathe I got that's big enough to swing a medium duty truck rim.
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Dec 10, 2014 14:27
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the spyder posted:Since we are talking about machine tools more, our little machine shop is coming together nicely. Wow that place looks sweet. I would love to have a little set up like that eventually. (With forging equipment too of course.)
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Dec 10, 2014 18:53
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MohawkSatan posted:Manual machining might be dying out, but it's fascinating as hell to me. Plus, I like making things by hand. It's not dying out, it's completely dead. This is why toolmakers/model shop techs/prototype machinists are worth $$$ and are hard for factories to find (outside of certain small areas).
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Dec 11, 2014 02:33
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sixide posted:It's not dying out, it's completely dead. This is why toolmakers/model shop techs/prototype machinists are worth $$$ and are hard for factories to find (outside of certain small areas). Manual machining as your only job might be dead but manual machines are still in every machine shop for good reasoon. Just might only be 1-2 of each type for every 10 CNC machines.
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Dec 11, 2014 04:20
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There are still a ton of things you can do faster on a bridgeport than any cnc machine. The adaptability of the head and quill means they can do things that would require a giant 5 axis machine otherwise. The issue is that full apprenticeships are getting rare and trade schools are pumping out machinists who can't do much more than push a button.
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Dec 11, 2014 15:50
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I recently cajoled, persuaded, lied and deceived my way into getting the machine shop at work serviced, for the first time in 22 years. Ajax mill, Harrison M500 lathe, surface grinder, cylindrical grinder. There were 4 gears missing from the thread cutting gearbox of the lathe, only 1 of 5 drive belts still intact, power feed clutches were all knackered & bodged together, chuck jaws were junk, the manual rack on the surface grinder was missing half its teeth, the cyl grinder needs a whole new tailstock, none of the mill position displays work. It seemed a shame to have these machines going to waste, I also got a couple of the apprentices interested in keeping it up to scratch later. One of the machines also had "Thump to start" written on the control box.
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Dec 12, 2014 22:58
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I did a thing a couple weeks ago as a sort of commission for a friend, but I couldn't post about it because he was giving it away as part of AI's secret Santa. Now that the recipient finally got and opened his package, I can talk about it, and I am stupidly proud of it. Start with 50 year old leaf spring from a 66 dodge which I can only assume is 5160 (sure seemed to be after doing a spark test and forging it a little, this stuff hammers down wonderfully, I loved working with it). Mark out and cut a blank.  Do a little initial sanding/grinding work.  Give it a nice round handle. (amazingly, it was balanced perfectly right where the blade meets the handle, I didn't even plan it that way, just worked out!)  Grind it into a rough knifey profile.  Quench in motor oil, this is an AI project after all.  Clean and remove all scale.   Polish it, temper it in the oven, then apply beeswax on handle.  Sharpened it to the point where I could shave the hair off my wrist before I handed it off to Seat Safety Switch. So yeah, my first for-real knife turned out really well, and I had a great time making it. 5160 owns loving bones and I love working with it. Zirconium Oxide sanding belts with different grits are a loving massive gift from science. Life is good.
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Dec 26, 2014 08:24
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Haha, that is the most awesome secret santa gift.
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Dec 27, 2014 02:45
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knocked out a copper plaque for a Christmas gift. 
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Dec 27, 2014 03:58
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Slung Blade posted:So yeah, my first for-real knife turned out really well, and I had a great time making it. 5160 owns loving bones and I love working with it. Zirconium Oxide sanding belts with different grits are a loving massive gift from science. Life is good. Nice one. I'm half way through making an early razor from an old worn out file, and I can confirm that Zirc-oxide abrasives are loving magic, even on hard file steel. I love the flap-wheels for my little Hitachi grinder. Somehow the Chinese "Faithfull" brand ones poo poo all over the European brand-name ones which cost more than twice as much.
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Dec 29, 2014 10:27
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ok this is definitely the best thing ive ever made (linking it b/c it is, improbably, nws) http://i.imgur.com/CwIaCfU.jpg?1 based on this authentic roman fascinus bas-relief, also nws http://www.flavinscorner.com/roman_relief.jpg
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Dec 30, 2014 01:02
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Ah, yes. The "Dickbutt Dogge", a historical classic that belongs in every art collection. That's loving awesome work Ambrose, I liked that last one you posted too. Your skills are incredible, I wish I had your patience for sheet metal art 
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Dec 30, 2014 01:25
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Ambrose Burnside posted:ok this is definitely the best thing ive ever made (linking it b/c it is, improbably, nws) I visited a museum in Italy that had a poo poo ton of those this summer. Of all kinds - sculpture, bas-relief, mosaics, etc. It was really something to see.
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Dec 30, 2014 01:30
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Ambrose Burnside posted:based on this authentic roman fascinus bas-relief, also nws http://www.flavinscorner.com/roman_relief.jpg I learned something today.
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Dec 30, 2014 01:31
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Slung Blade posted:Ah, yes. The "Dickbutt Dogge", a historical classic that belongs in every art collection. Thanks. It turned out pretty well given that I did it all by eyeball- normally I do templates with a vector program, print them out, and scribe/graphite-paper trace the pattern through, but this time I just sketched the legged wingus freehand on the copper with a marker and did the medallion outline with a compass, and chased the detail n decorations in with no real plan until I got it to a place I liked. Your knife looks real good too, I really dig the handle's lines n flow. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 01:50
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So how feasible do you guys think it would be to heat 16 Guage sheet with a propane Burnzomatic, in order to shape it into a rose? No anvil, just wood for slight rounding / veining and then bending the heated sections using pliers. Possible?
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Dec 31, 2014 00:24
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Rime posted:So how feasible do you guys think it would be to heat 16 Guage sheet with a propane Burnzomatic, in order to shape it into a rose? No anvil, just wood for slight rounding / veining and then bending the heated sections using pliers. You may miss out on a lot of texture without peening the petals, but the general form should be achievable.
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Dec 31, 2014 00:41
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Rime posted:So how feasible do you guys think it would be to heat 16 Guage sheet with a propane Burnzomatic, in order to shape it into a rose? No anvil, just wood for slight rounding / veining and then bending the heated sections using pliers. That should work just fine, although 16 gauge is very heavy for a rose. 20 gauge or mayyyybe 18 would be my go-to for nonferrous, and steel's stronger than brass or copper.
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Dec 31, 2014 02:02
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Yeah, the only affordable blanks kit was 16g for some reason. I finally found a metal supplier that I can get to in Vancouver without a car, though, so imma pick up some 22g and see what I can do with that as well. I've seen people peening on butchers blocks in lieu of anvils, bad idea?
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Dec 31, 2014 02:33
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Cold working of sheet metal is often done on wood. The local coppersmith uses a large freestanding oak log to dish a given workpiece, using one spot for a dishing many pieces until a hollow starts to appear in the surface, which makes it easier as you go. When the hollow in the wood becomes too deep he moves to the next spot. he's had the current log about 20 years and he hasn't used all of one end yet. Working on wood means more work, but a finer finish. And as with an anvil, the bigger the log, the easier the work.
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Dec 31, 2014 16:58
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Hello, off-and-on lurker here and now a metalworking newbie - I inherited a 120 VAC stick welder over Christmas this year(nobody died thankfully, my father was just getting rid of some of the random poo poo he's acquired over the years in the basement) and am now trying to learn how to work this thing halfway-decently. I've always been interested in welding and other metalworking but due to circumstances it was always kind of out of reach, but now since I have a garage(seperated and won't leak smells into the house, woo) I can actually start learning how to do this stuff rather than just sitting on the sidelines and  to all the stuff that gets posted in here. I read through some electrode guides and grabbed a pack of 1/8" 6011 electrodes from Tractor Supply, grinding/cutting wheels, deadblow hammer, and the cheapest rebar I could find and cobbled together a log holder for the fireplace to see how much I did/didn't like it. Turns out the VUWUZZZZZZZZZMMMZZZ noise the arc makes is hypnotic and turning a lump of metal into something real and useful gives me a bit of a thrill. As for the log holder, 5/6 of my joints were happily much less spattery and bird-shittier than I expected them to be and it passed the (highly scientific) tests of being dropped from head height and then tossed up into the air in the driveway without breaking. So mission accomplished for my proof-of-concept there. Afterwards I went back here and read the first post, primer stuff that AbsentMindedWelder put together(most links are dead at this point unfortunately), and the later bitching about Hobart electrode quality("stick" welding indeed, har har. Guess what brand I had bought). I did manage to work out the bounce method for striking an arc on my own after a few minutes though. One thing that I hadn't seen covered yet is a general safety gear overview - aside from the requisite hood and leather gloves/apron/etc, what kind of filter mask(s) or other gear should I invest in to get the best bang for my buck as a starting hobbyist? I won't be doing anything galvanized or stainless so a full-on remote-air-supply hood would be overkill, but I don't really know the quality differences between the PPE out there for this. Also, the way I understand it so far the thinner the material the thinner the electrode and the lower the amps I want to use in general, correct? I think I have a half-assed idea of what electrodes are appropriate from looking at the charts Miller publishes. I'm planning on hitting the city's trash dropoff/recycling center near me(as long as you have a current city water bill they let you come in and drop off/take whatever you want from several recycling piles) soon to get scrap to practice on and learn to lay actual beads - I was planning on getting as many thicknesses of metal from 1/4" tube and sheet down as I could, is that good idea? The reason for this being the first thing I'd like to make is a rectangular vertical smoker with a side-connected firebox, seems like a simple enough thing to tackle as a first project. Seems like I'd want to really brush up on learning to do lap joints and butt welds on both sheet and tubing for it. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 07:21
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Hey everyone! Wondering if anyone here does any gunsmithing. What I'm curious about is having a couple holes drilled and tapped in the Mossberg Maverick 88 shotgun I just bought. It doesn't come with the holes neccessary to mount optics to the top of the receiver. Any ideas on how hard it would be to do it? I have access to a drill press, but no experience in metal work. What would I need to do something like this and what would I be getting myself into?
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Jan 7, 2015 23:36
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I'm thinking of hosting a blacksmithing / metalworking specific wiki, since Wikipedia is more technical than necessary and there is a lot of useful information being lost as geocities era sites like Anvilfire shut down. Heck, even the OP here is mostly dead. Would this be worthwhile?
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Jan 7, 2015 23:44
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Element1290 posted:Hey everyone! Wondering if anyone here does any gunsmithing. What I'm curious about is having a couple holes drilled and tapped in the Mossberg Maverick 88 shotgun I just bought. It doesn't come with the holes neccessary to mount optics to the top of the receiver. Any ideas on how hard it would be to do it? I have access to a drill press, but no experience in metal work. What would I need to do something like this and what would I be getting myself into? The most important part, especially for optics, it getting the holes in the right spot(s). Measuring and/or templates are critical, and I don't think baby's first close tolerance drill and tap project should be on a $300 shotty. There no reason you can't work up to that, but with no previous metalworking experience I'd start on scrap and work your way up.
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Jan 7, 2015 23:46
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Rime posted:I'm thinking of hosting a blacksmithing / metalworking specific wiki, since Wikipedia is more technical than necessary and there is a lot of useful information being lost as geocities era sites like Anvilfire shut down. Heck, even the OP here is mostly dead. This would be hugely beneficial to metalworkers at any training level to learn new stuff. I say it would be very worthwhile.
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Jan 8, 2015 00:22
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