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I chose an '04 Forester over equivalent Outback because it's lighter which will benefit all aspects and I find the taller back to be more useful for cargo, it also has shorter front and rear overhangs. '03 is when the body style changed on the Forester and is a better car IMO. More ground clearance, better interior, better motor. Really happy with the purchase. I got the 2.5 XS, I'd avoid the X simply because it has drum brakes and they're annoying to service more than anything else. Wish I had the turbo but they're like gold around here. Biggest things at that mileage; timing belt and headgaskets. I had a PPI done on my car by a Subaru specialist, and I've never bothered with a PPI before, just to make sure the headgaskets were ok. On these years its an external leak anyway so if it starts to go bad it will theoretically just leak coolant which you can periodically top up and won't lead to engine damage. Motor, tranny, and diff mounts will probably be wanting to be replaced at 160k+. Seems like the throwout bearings go bad fast on these cars so over 160k it might be getting ready for it's 3rd bearing. You will also probably have a random assortment of exterior bulbs burnt out. The sunroof probably won't work but it's a pretty simple fix to replace the motor once you drop the headliner. Other than that I'm pretty drat impressed with how it functions and drives with barely any maintenance and also happy averaging 27mpg. Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 00:37
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There's a 2005 Forester X (2.5 4cyl) with 99k mi that looks fairly promising, and a 2003 Outback (3.0 6cyl) with 124k miles. I'll probably be checking them out tomorrow. I'd heard about the head gasket leak but I need to find a good place to have them inspected. Are there any other particular issues with these years that should make me run like the wind? I've never bought a car with this high of mileage before, so I'm a little nervous about it.
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Dec 31, 2014 01:27
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TB is the only thing that spells disaster on these cars I think.
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Dec 31, 2014 01:31
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Keep in mind timing belts need to be done, in Aus we do them every 100000 kms, that outbacks done 198 000. If you are scared of loving it up like I am and get it done at a mechanic, its quite expensive. You'll probably want to do stuff like gearbox oils etc too.
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Dec 31, 2014 01:39
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Don't forget the water pump and idler pulley.
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Dec 31, 2014 07:56
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00+ is better so you dont have to deal with the DOHC bullshit of the 2.5s. OP has headgasket info. Ideally you want paperwork of them and the timing belt WITH PULLIES being done, otherwise you should get a price drop by a lot. I'll be looking for similar cars for a friend of mine and my rule is no paperwork for tb/hg = I'm going to be doing them and we should get a 1000 dollar discount accordingly, otherwise bye bye.
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Dec 31, 2014 14:31
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So whats' the verdict on Gates water pumps? Are they still good or has the quality dropped to Lower grade Chinese garbage?
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Dec 31, 2014 15:26
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They're good but the subaru pumps don't need to be replaced on the first timing belt change unless you're just playing it safe (I replaced it on mine, been using the gates for 10k so far no issues no change from OEM performance).
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Dec 31, 2014 16:10
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I've done half a dozen cars with them without issue. I believe you and jamal have noted that there have been issues with them? Honestly the last time it came up it made me consider switching but I'd like some more evidence as to whether or not they are becoming an issue.
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Dec 31, 2014 16:49
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Slow is Fast posted:I've done half a dozen cars with them without issue. Yea that's what I was getting at. I'm looking for more evidence.
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Dec 31, 2014 17:01
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Thanks for all the replies. They've been a big help. I'm leaning toward the flat 6 now because of the lack of head gasket issues and the fact that it uses a timing chain instead of a belt. Is there any other significant well-known issue in the 6cyl that I should be wary of? Any particular service I should confirm w the seller?
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Dec 31, 2014 18:34
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I've started recommending the oem pumps but rest of the gates kit still seems to be ok. I've personally seen 3-4 cases of the gates pumps leaking after a fairly short period of time (2-3 years, 20k mi or so). It's not that much extra to get an oem pump from sgp instead. I have the numbers for 2- vs 3- inlet and cast and stamped impellers. I think the cast impeller is thought to be slightly better but it doesn't really matter most of the time. And don't even think of doing a timing belt service without replacing everything. I personally had an original water pump explode at ~130k miles and an idler fail at 180 or so because I only had the belt and pump replaced.
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Dec 31, 2014 19:03
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Subaru dudes, I've had my eye on getting a DD/beater for a while so I can put fewer miles on my G8, but it has to be something fun to drive. I would love a Baja, since I've gotten to spend a week driving one and know how much fun the turbo version is. Unfortunately they're waaaay out of budget for me, but I figure I would also enjoy a WRX. I also know jack and poo poo about them. I want your opinions on whether or not this car is even worth going to look at: Autotrader Link A 2003, 197k, 5 speed, "lightly" modded, blue wagon, for $4000. It's high miles, but my understanding is these things last for quite a while if you don't treat them like poo poo. So, is it worth a look, or should I pass it by? Is there anything I should check specifically if I do go look at it?
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Jan 1, 2015 03:30
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WAR CRIME SYNDICAT posted:Subaru dudes, I've had my eye on getting a DD/beater for a while so I can put fewer miles on my G8, but it has to be something fun to drive. I would love a Baja, since I've gotten to spend a week driving one and know how much fun the turbo version is. Unfortunately they're waaaay out of budget for me, but I figure I would also enjoy a WRX. I also know jack and poo poo about them. I want your opinions on whether or not this car is even worth going to look at: I would never buy a modded WRX, especially not with 197k on it.
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Jan 1, 2015 03:44
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VelociBacon posted:I would never buy a modded WRX, especially not with 197k on it. I think finding an unmoded WRX is near impossible nowadays.
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Jan 1, 2015 04:26
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VelociBacon posted:I would never buy a modded WRX, especially not with 197k on it. Yeah, I'm torn on the mods. I've seen a lot worse than "intake and exhaust" but who knows what he took off and put back to stock. And I wasn't sure how bad 197k was. Bajaha posted:I think finding an unmoded WRX is near impossible nowadays. Also this, especially for under 10k.
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Jan 1, 2015 04:28
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I think for almost any make, for the 150k to 250k "old fast and/or fun car" category, there are generally three general tacks you can take: -You spend a bunch of money and time and replace possibly still-good rubber and wear items, for the sake of thoroughness. Car is set to make it to 400k and its ride amazes everybody for its age. Is totaled by idiot in pickup truck at 228k. -You spend a few bucks as things blow out here and there, the ride is never as slick or good as stock, but it stays rolling and is occasionally quick between hose clamp breaks and manifold cracks. You never put too much cash into it at once, but it's fun. Lasts another 100k or so, then gets too expensive to fix. When it dies you desperately CL it for $1200 and drive an '02 Corolla. -Put pretty much zero dollars into it except for literal safety issues, drive it until the wheels fall off while you get familiar with the platform and plan your #2 car. Since you didn't put poo poo into the first beater, you have a bit of money to help on the budget for this one, and can get something worth it. Generally I think if you can pull off the third option when getting into a new platform/marque/scene/whatever, it's best. It's super super hard to be a savvy shopper for a 'weird car' when you haven't been up in their peanut butter for a few years already.
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Jan 1, 2015 05:10
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Jonny 290 posted:I think for almost any make, for the 150k to 250k "old fast and/or fun car" category, there are generally three general tacks you can take: Yeah, I have no problem doing stuff to keep the car running and fun. I already have my big project car in the G8, so that's taken care of.
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Jan 1, 2015 05:17
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WAR CRIME SYNDICAT posted:Subaru dudes, I've had my eye on getting a DD/beater for a while so I can put fewer miles on my G8, but it has to be something fun to drive. I would love a Baja, since I've gotten to spend a week driving one and know how much fun the turbo version is. Unfortunately they're waaaay out of budget for me, but I figure I would also enjoy a WRX. I also know jack and poo poo about them. I want your opinions on whether or not this car is even worth going to look at: You're definitely rolling the dice there. A boy-racer tuner and nearly 200k on the odometer? If you already have a fun car in the garage and want something to beat on, maybe this isn't the one for you; unless you want them to trade roles eventually.
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Jan 1, 2015 11:13
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McSpatula posted:You're definitely rolling the dice there. A boy-racer tuner and nearly 200k on the odometer? If you already have a fun car in the garage and want something to beat on, maybe this isn't the one for you; unless you want them to trade roles eventually. Yeah, I had that feeling. I was just trying to justify it to myself. I'm gonna keep looking. Thanks, guys.
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Jan 1, 2015 18:26
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BIG HORNY COW posted:Replaced my driver's side axle today. Took about 2 hours and was way less painless than I was expecting. I was sure the axle was going to be seized in the hub but it just flopped right out without any effort. That's good news. I just bought a 2004 Outback LL Bean with 96k and it's got a bad driver's side axle. It's making noise when turning left and accelerating aggressively so I'll be doing that in the near future. It's also probably going to need most of the exhaust system replaced at the next smog check (rust), but that's two years away so I have time to move out of California or whatever.
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Jan 1, 2015 18:56
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Boys who love boys
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Anyone know if a 2006 WRX would have some sort of collision/rollover protection that prevents a start? The issue we have is no power to the ignition going into the steering wheel. Hooking up 12V to this wire from the battery the car starts perfectly, so the ignition relays seem to be working fine. Its possible there is a break somewhere in the wiring harness but I don't want to tear it apart if there is a simpler answer.
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Jan 1, 2015 20:18
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Bajaha posted:I think finding an unmoded WRX is near impossible nowadays. I've got an Blue '05 WRX sedan w/ a 5speed and no mods that I've owned since 2006. 108k on the clock, full service records and I did the t-belt, idlers, waterpump and cam seals at 103k. I wonder if I could get more than 10k for it in Seattle? But at this point, WRXs that have not been hosed with are so rare I'm inclined to not change anything.
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Jan 1, 2015 22:13
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mcgreenvegtables posted:Anyone know if a 2006 WRX would have some sort of collision/rollover protection that prevents a start? The issue we have is no power to the ignition going into the steering wheel. Hooking up 12V to this wire from the battery the car starts perfectly, so the ignition relays seem to be working fine. Its possible there is a break somewhere in the wiring harness but I don't want to tear it apart if there is a simpler answer. On my 2004 I think there may be a rollover sensor at the top of the fuel filler neck.
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Jan 1, 2015 22:19
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Today's my lucky day! The pinhole rust I thought I saw in the exhaust system is actually flakes of shiny metal showing through mild surface rust. I was assuming it was going to be rusted to hell since the car was in Alameda, but it's not bad at all. Now I almost feel bad for low-balling the seller. The clicking while turning left is all I need to address in the near term. The CV boots are all in good shape, and I can't feel any difference in play from side to side. I hear aftermarket axles for Subarus are trash and want to confirm that mine are OE. Does anyone know how to identify genuine or aftermarket axles? I didn't see any markings on either, though the coloration/discoloration on the inner ball joint housings were different so I suspect one/both may have been replaced. It's a 2004 Outback H6 if it matters.
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Jan 1, 2015 23:58
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monsterzero posted:Today's my lucky day! The pinhole rust I thought I saw in the exhaust system is actually flakes of shiny metal showing through mild surface rust. I was assuming it was going to be rusted to hell since the car was in Alameda, but it's not bad at all. Now I almost feel bad for low-balling the seller. For me at least (gc8 STI) the OEM axles are lime green.
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Jan 2, 2015 00:18
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I'm confused by the retaining clip on the HID low beams in my 92x, which I believe is the same clip used in the 06-07 STI (and maybe the WRX Limited if it had a HID option back then, IDK). You're supposed to remove this ghetto-rear end retaining clip/spring that looks like a bent paper clip holding in the bulb. It took me forever to figure out, and I don't think I reinstalled it correctly because the bulb isn't leveled. There's some sheathed wiring going to the bulb with a connector on the end that the base of the bulb plugs into. Am I supposed to unconnect the plastic connector and pull away the wiring, leaving the bulb in place under the clip in the lens assembly, THEN unclip the bulb and remove it seperately? In every other car I've had you're supposed to just pull the bulb and wiring from the lens, then unplug the bulb from the wired base. I consulted the manual and it doesn't seem clear on this.
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Jan 3, 2015 02:20
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Yeah, with most oem HID sockets you twist and then pull the connector off the bulb and then release the retaining clip. The bulb is also keyed so it'll only fit properly one way. If you knock the bulb off center when installing or removing it you'll mess up the headlight output. The bulb is most likely a D2S bulb.
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Jan 3, 2015 08:48
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Bajaha posted:Yeah, with most oem HID sockets you twist and then pull the connector off the bulb and then release the retaining clip. The bulb is also keyed so it'll only fit properly one way. If you knock the bulb off center when installing or removing it you'll mess up the headlight output. Got it, thanks. I think it's actually D2R.
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Jan 3, 2015 13:47
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One of my hatch struts blew out during a cold snap. I want to replace it, but I don't really feel like paying the $100 from the dealership. Are there any good aftermarket ones, or just someplace to get the OEM ones that isn't that expensive? Not sure how much the model matters for that part, but it's a 99 OBS.
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Jan 3, 2015 23:53
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22 Eargesplitten posted:One of my hatch struts blew out during a cold snap. I want to replace it, but I don't really feel like paying the $100 from the dealership. Are there any good aftermarket ones, or just someplace to get the OEM ones that isn't that expensive? OBS is Impreza right? (that poo poo still confuses me) Anyway, Looks like Rockauto has them for $25/$30. Make>Year>Model>Body>Lift Support to find them. Also if I'm wrong and it's Legacy based they're like $15.
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Jan 4, 2015 00:14
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Outback Sports are Imprezas, yes. Avoid the Monroes, they don't fit. I just did a pair of self-clearancing Monroes in my '03 TS and have nicely cracked interior trim for my trouble as soon as it got below about -20. In my '97 OBS I went with a brand that RockAuto no longer appears to carry, forget what it was, but it worked well. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jan 4, 2015 |
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Jan 4, 2015 00:31
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Just go to a wrecker?
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Jan 4, 2015 00:42
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I guess I'll probably go with the AMS ones from RockAuto, unless anyone has had negative experiences with them. I don't know wreckers around here that have much in the way of subaru parts unless I drive for an hour. Which is weird, because over 10% of the cars I see around here are subarus, but the junkyards around here seem to be full of Jeeps and pickup trucks. Maybe because the Subarus are all still on the road.
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Jan 4, 2015 01:21
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Can't you just go to like napa and get a pair that fits?
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Jan 4, 2015 01:31
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I didn't even see them on NAPA's website. AutoZone, Advanced, and the dealership would all have to order them in. I didn't check O'Reilys.
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Jan 4, 2015 02:15
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Transmission related question... I have a 2003 Forester X with the 5 speed and 97k miles on it, and apparently the transmission decided to die yesterday. Shortly after I pulled away from a stoplight, the car started acting like they brakes were engaging somehow (I thought the hill holder might have been acting up initially) and when I got into a parking lot about 30 seconds later, it took a lot of throttle to get into a parking space, and required slipping the clutch quite a bit. When the car was pulled onto a flatbed, the left front wheel wasn't rotating at all, but the other three rolled freely, and the shop called me today to let me know that the problem was caused by the transmission having blown up internally, so I have a choice a between a 160k mile transmission from Texas (that's the mileage on the donor vehicle, the transmission might be newer) for $2700 installed (with a new clutch) or a new unit from Subaru, which would be about $6k installed. Since the car is only worth $4500, the new transmission doesn't make financial sense, and since the used one comes with a 12 month warranty, I was planning to have that installed, and then plan on replacing the car within the next year or so, since the transmission would let me get slightly more than the current "4000lb paperweight" resale value it has, and (more importantly) would let me look for a replacement car on my own time. This raises two questions in my mind... Is there a chance that the transmission going like that could have destroyed the center differential? Having one wheel completely locked up with the transmission in neutral seems to me like the center diff is doing something it isn't supposed to. Secondly, is the $2700 a reasonable price for a transmission with possibly 160k miles on it? I'm not having a lot of luck finding prices for the transmission online, and calling several transmission shops wasn't super helpful, since they couldn't give an estimate without seeing the car.
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Jan 8, 2015 00:53
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azflyboy posted:Transmission related question... A transmission on ebay is going to be cheaper installed than what they are suggesting. I need a shop jesus christ. The center diff and the trans and the front diff are all one unit, so either way all that poo poo is getting replaced regardless. Your car in theory should be 4.11 gear ratio, you should be able to scrounge something up on ebay, forums, or car-parts.com. If you are in new england you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a 4.11 MT outback or forester in a junkyard. I'd expect to pay no more than 500 for a box locally, 800 shipped, 800 labor to installed. I'm a cheap gently caress though, but 2700 still sounds like too much.
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Jan 8, 2015 01:23
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That sounds fishy like you might be getting taken for a ride. Your transmission "blew up" without explaination at 90k? I'd ask to see some evidence of that and not a stuck-on brake or other minor issue like you thought. Another possibility is that the throwout bearing went out suddenly and locked everything up. 3 wheels spinning and 1 locked up sounds to me like the diffs are working as intended and either the locked tire has a stuck-on brake or the tranny is locked to the engine and that's the tire of least resistance.
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Jan 8, 2015 03:40
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Your symptoms sound a hell of a lot like when my center diff unwound and fragged the whole transmission.
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Jan 8, 2015 03:46
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