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Stealth Like posted:They screwed you if you can't find a comparable car for what they gave you. It's more that a comparable car (year, options, mileage, condition, etc.) literally just doesn't exist for sale in my area. Their adjusted settlement was actually several thousand dollars above the listed price of the cars they used for the valuation owing to the condition and mileage of the car. Unfortunately, I've got enough experience with this process to know that "I can't find a car exactly like mine right now so can you pretty please give me a few thousand dollars extra so I can buy one a couple of years newer?" wouldn't fly. I could easily go out and buy another '03 330ci right now and walk away with a couple of thousand dollars in my pocket from the settlement, it just wouldn't really be "comparable." dissss posted:I think it was a coupe vs sedan/wagon thing (the coupe got its facelift later than the other models) Yup.
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Jan 8, 2015 03:06
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Stealth Like posted:They screwed you if you can't find a comparable car for what they gave you. You can insure a car for a declared value, right? I need to do this with mine - the Miata is worth a lot more than the couch change KBB, I'm guessing the Saabaru might be as well.
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Jan 8, 2015 03:06
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blk posted:You can insure a car for a declared value, right? I need to do this with mine - the Miata is worth a lot more than the couch change KBB, I'm guessing the Saabaru might be as well. I think this varies by state, but at least in CT the insurance company won't look at KBB/Nada values at all. The valuation is based on 'comparable' cars for sale within a reasonable distance, adjusted for differences in mileage, options, etc. You'll also usually have some wiggle room with negotiation (the original settlement amount for my car was around $10k including sales tax and registration fees, and I got them to bump it up to just over $10k for the base valuation) if you can show that similar cars are actually selling for me.
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Jan 8, 2015 03:23
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Most policies also have an appraisal clause you can invoke, which is especially useful for low production cars where its hard to find comparables. Most people don't invoke it since you have to pay for your own appraiser ($200'ish) and it takes time, which often times people won't have if its their only car and they need to get around.
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Jan 8, 2015 04:53
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30 minutes to remove the radiator and expansion tank, about 45 minutes to put the new ones in. Less than 24 hours later, back on the road! I love my Beater 5.
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Jan 8, 2015 07:00
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Paradoxish posted:Insurance ended up paying out around $10k, which is definitely pretty generous, but at the same time it's not looking likely that I'm going to find a comparable car at that price point any time soon. I'm searching around for 04-05 330cis that won't require me to spend more than a few grand out of pocket, but my prospects at the moment aren't too hot. You can get a pristine (non-sulev) ZHP for that kinda money now. Atleast in California.
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Jan 8, 2015 07:33
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Shogunner posted:You can get a pristine (non-sulev) ZHP for that kinda money now. Atleast in California. That's what I paid for my ZHP in Oregon. It's also the price range for a well maintained E36 M3.
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Jan 8, 2015 14:37
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Motronic posted:This guy is the target market for the "stop loving up the M cars with lux goods and make a different high spec prestige line like Alpina from the factory that doesn't come with things that ruin it for people who don't want a sports car."
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Jan 8, 2015 15:55
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Mr. Apollo posted:Honestly, I would LOVE an Alpina B3. It's like an M3 but for someone who is never going to track their car and just wants something a bit nicer than a regular 3 Series. Problem is, Alpina is another manufacturer like BMW so they need to put all their cars through crash and emissions testing to sell them in the US. Not worth it for the smaller cars but justifiable for the 7 series. BMW could bring back the "L" cars like in the 1980s but across the entire line.
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Jan 8, 2015 16:27
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I really want a 135iL now
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Jan 8, 2015 16:35
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Brock Landers posted:Problem is, Alpina is another manufacturer like BMW so they need to put all their cars through crash and emissions testing to sell them in the US. Not worth it for the smaller cars but justifiable for the 7 series. BMW could bring back the "L" cars like in the 1980s but across the entire line. BMW should just acquire Alpina and incorporate them like Mercedes did AMG. But then you have the problem of having essentially 3 lines (BMW, M, Alpina) which I don't think they'd go for.
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Jan 8, 2015 16:48
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The solution is simple. Charge way more money for the L line. 335 costs 43k. M3 costs 63k. The L3 will costs 70-80k and have all kinds of crazy luxury stuff. If they did that, they could probably lower the price of the M3 by putting less luxury stuff in it. An M4 with manual cloth seats, no navigation, no sun roof, no fancy shades or parking distance sensors. I'd pay 53k for it. The rich people will always want the most expensive thing they can get. If you tell them 80k for this super luxurious 4 series, they will buy it.
Cojawfee fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 17:03
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Not a bad way to do it, especially since there's a precedent for L models. Both the E23 and E38 had a "L7". In the E23 it was a NA-only luxury package on top of the 735i, in the E38 it was a super-extended version of the 750iL with another 25cm in the middle.
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Jan 8, 2015 17:12
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Viper_3000 posted:BMW should just acquire Alpina and incorporate them like Mercedes did AMG. But then you have the problem of having essentially 3 lines (BMW, M, Alpina) which I don't think they'd go for. But then they would have a $3000 Alpina package for the 220i active tourer that gets you all of the badges and none of the luxury.
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Jan 8, 2015 21:24
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There was an L6 in the United States too
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Jan 8, 2015 21:31
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2015 WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO MY BMW THREAD e: Cojawfee posted:The solution is simple. Charge way more money for the L line. 335 costs 43k. M3 costs 63k. The L3 will costs 70-80k and have all kinds of crazy luxury stuff. If they did that, they could probably lower the price of the M3 by putting less luxury stuff in it. An M4 with manual cloth seats, no navigation, no sun roof, no fancy shades or parking distance sensors. I'd pay 53k for it. The rich people will always want the most expensive thing they can get. If you tell them 80k for this super luxurious 4 series, they will buy it.
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Jan 8, 2015 21:36
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SuperDucky posted:2015 WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO MY BMW THREAD nobody does. not even BMW
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Jan 8, 2015 22:03
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There are BMWs post e46?
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Jan 8, 2015 23:17
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PaintVagrant posted:There are BMWs post e46? As far as I'm concerned the last M cars produced were made on the e46 chassis.
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Jan 9, 2015 00:14
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BMW isn't a sports car company or luxury car company. It's a company that makes car that are usually pretty nice. I don't think it's fair to blame BMW either, their SUVs, automatic transmissions is because that's what consumers want.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:09
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HotCanadianChick posted:That's what I paid for my ZHP in Oregon. It's also the price range for a well maintained E36 M3. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4829952807.html Is this you?
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Jan 9, 2015 01:11
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SuperDucky posted:2015 WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO MY BMW THREAD BMWs business model seems to be to make as many models with as many different, confusing product lines and options as possible. This, from what I can tell, has two primary effects: - Moves cars that dealers order and which have the most popular option combos that make them easy to resell when they come back from a lease. -Cause people to say "gently caress it" and order the "loaded" cars which have higher margins. Seems to be working as BMW both outsold and outgrew (% growth rate) Mercedes in 2014.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:43
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That's way too clean to be mine Not enough rock chips/rash on the front lip and the headlight lenses are actually clear. 
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Jan 9, 2015 01:55
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BMW luxury VS sports car chat is being interrupted by actual question regarding a BMW: I finally buttoned up the replacement starter in my E36 M3. I dicked up the pintle caps on a couple of injectors so I figured I would get replacements as well as the o-rings for the injectors where they go into the intake manifold. My car started and sputtered quite a lot. I am hoping it was the fuel system purging itself of air bubbles (I attempted to replace my fuel filter but couldn't get it out passed the hard lines so decided screw it, I'll do it later). My CEL came on (no surprise there) and I got a misfire detected for cylinders 3&4. My Peake tool also pulled an EWS signal code - what the hell is that? After a few restarts the car started up and acted completely normal (hence my suspicion about purging the fuel line). Now my battery light came on. I drove the car around the block and it definitely had the same power it did before I ripped everything apart so I was happy about that. I drove home and put my multimeter on the battery and saw 11.4-11.8V  am I just that unlucky of a bastard that the moment I got my starter replaced that the alternator died? Or am I missing something bigger? I pulled the alternator to take to test tomorrow after work since it's the only thing on this drat krautsled that is a 10 minute job.I'm really hoping it's just the alternator. I beat on it with a rubber mallet (even while running) and the battery voltage remained unchanged. If there is anything else I should be looking at I would appreciate the tips.
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Jan 9, 2015 08:06
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It sounds like you might have missed, unplugged, or broken a connection to the alt. If it checks good, check the charge light wiring. Another order to pelican, another $150 down. I've yet to have a single order with BMW parts that was less than $100... At least the turbo 6 will be back on the road shortly. Also all I need is the ribbon and gauge rings to come in so I can do the cluster LCD on the beater 5. mafoose fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 08:23
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So I'm trying to get my dad into a BMW since I got my e46m3. He wants an automatic, sedan. Soooo, e46 330i or e39 540i? I'm actually having a surprisingly hard time finding a decent 330 in SoCal that isn't some horrible color, which is bizarre. I did find a '03 540, M-package, black on tan, 100k miles. They want 11k for it though... edit:// /\/\ E36 guy--is there a big wire from the alternator to the starter? That connected? It's either that (although I feel there would be more smoke) or a disconnected field wire... the poi fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 09:28
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the poi posted:So I'm trying to get my dad into a BMW since I got my e46m3. He wants an automatic, sedan. Soooo, e46 330i or e39 540i? E60 m5s are automatic. .
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Jan 9, 2015 16:03
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the poi posted:So I'm trying to get my dad into a BMW since I got my e46m3. He wants an automatic, sedan. Soooo, e46 330i or e39 540i? E46 automatics are terrible and prone to suddenly making GBS threads themselves, resulting in a four figure bill for a replacement transmission. Dunno if E39s used the same awful unit, I think they might on some models.
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Jan 9, 2015 16:32
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Bape Culture posted:E60 m5s are automatic. . They have that weird SMG-II though that's basically the manual with some computer controlled hydraulic bits bolted on. Aren't those pretty bad for normal driving type situations (parking in particular), not to mention prone to an expensive failure?
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Jan 9, 2015 16:33
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wolrah posted:They have that weird SMG-II though that's basically the manual with some computer controlled hydraulic bits bolted on. Aren't those pretty bad for normal driving type situations (parking in particular), not to mention prone to an expensive failure? Yes, the early SMG/SMG-II units are also prone to expensive failures. Basically if you want an automatic you're much better going for an E90 or E60 with a standard automatic, everyone keeps saying it's a solid, reliable unit.
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Jan 9, 2015 16:41
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But there's only certain versions of the e90 and e60 with good autos. Basically its the higher units, the E90 330/335i and the e60 545/550i that get the good autos. They use a ZF box that has is pretty proven and lasts. The others use some god awful GM unit, which blows up around 120k miles. The E46 gets a ZF 5hp19 box only in 330i (and very late 328i, check the tag). E39 received a ZF box in 540i form. These like to poo poo A drums for dirty fluid. As long as the fluid is taken care of there is no issues with them and should live a long time. The zf boxes are good just keep up on maintenance and you will be fine.
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Jan 9, 2015 16:51
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300000km e39 525i automatic from 2001, feels fine to drive, how long should i expect it to last (the gearbox) and should i change the fluid or not? edit: e39, not e30 yes Killstick fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 17:32
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Killstick posted:300000km e30 525i automatic from 2001, feels fine to drive, how long should i expect it to last (the gearbox) and should i change the fluid or not? E30 525i? You mean E39, right? On average... 125k miles or more is borrowed time unless the fluid has been changed. These were supposed to be "sealed for life" which is horse poo poo. You can try changing the fluid and filter to the tune of 300 bucks (the fluid is pricy, and they are super touchy to fluid).
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Jan 9, 2015 17:36
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Update from my Beater5: So my expansion tank had exploded Tuesday , which was why I got stranded the other night. No problem, replace radiator and expansion tank. Wednesday night, button it up, follow fill procedure. Thursday morning head to work, right before the interstate on-ramp, blows the upper radiator hose. No problem, acquire hose from BMW dealership, click-click replace it, follow fill procedure. In retrospect when I unclipped this hose from the radiator the previous day, it felt a little squishy. My fault for not replacing it at the same time. Heading to work now, wish me luck. Theoretically the rest of the parts are not under pressure, and the water pump was replaced nearly a year ago. Thank God for the KTMP OBC Test 7. That thing has saved my car (I noticed the coolant temp doing funky things right before the hose blew up).
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Jan 9, 2015 17:42
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If you weren't experienced I would think that sounded like the hose blew off, i.e. wasn't fastened properly, rather than just blows.
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Jan 9, 2015 18:23
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BrokenKnucklez posted:But there's only certain versions of the e90 and e60 with good autos. Basically its the higher units, the E90 330/335i and the e60 545/550i that get the good autos. Where can i see a list of which transmissions were installed for each model and year?
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Jan 9, 2015 18:28
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Just Google searching... Plus when I was in the yards I would make note of what car had what transmission. There's a few years in the E46 that had some fuckery too. There's no hard and fast rule but what I outlined above is a pretty good indicator. But the lower models/smaller engines got the poo poo transmissions.
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Jan 9, 2015 19:02
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BrokenKnucklez posted:E30 525i? You mean E39, right? On average... 125k miles or more is borrowed time unless the fluid has been changed. I've heard about people changing the fluid in their transmissions and destroying it because the fresh fluid shook loose debris or something inside it that then goes on to clog the works. What do you do to avoid that? If i do change it i'll do it myself (with some help) so if there's anything i should know before that i'd be grateful to hear it. Also if the car runs fine should i just leave it be and wait until some symptoms appear? Don't want to fix what isn't broken. Killstick fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 19:14
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Killstick posted:I've heard about people changing the fluid in their transmissions and destroying it because the fresh fluid shook loose debris or something inside it that then goes on to clog the works. What do you do to avoid that? If i do change it i'll do it myself (with some help) so if there's anything i should know before that i'd be grateful to hear it. If a fluid change kills a transmission it was already on its way out. There's several diys on how to do it. Mostly its jacking the car up and getting under it to drop the pan and make a giant mess in the process. Just make sure you have every thing needed, extra fluid, etc. Oh BTW those giant kitty litter pans make good catch cans. Or those under bed storage totes work well too. I'll search and post a diy brb. http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...d_Replacing.htm Also... Is your transmission steptronic? If so it's a zf 5hp19... Much better unit than the GM pile. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 19:18
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Has any one experienced jerky acceleration out of an e46 M3? Primarily in the 2k-5k rpm range? It feels like fuel starvation but there is no trouble Light. I have a replacement fuel pump going in soon as well as fuel filter.
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Jan 9, 2015 20:02
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