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Vitamin J posted:That sounds fishy like you might be getting taken for a ride. Your transmission "blew up" without explaination at 90k? The transmission was operating normally (as far as I could tell) prior to the breakdown, and it went from "perfectly fine" to "needs a ton of throttle and clutch slipping to move" within the space of maybe 90 seconds when I pulled away from a light. After I parked, I did try to move it in first and reverse (very briefly), and it went into both gears (and neutral) fine, but felt like I was trying to drive with a really strong parking brake on, so I didn't move more than maybe 6 inches. When I talked to the shop, they said the transmission fluid smelled and looked badly burned despite being only 8000 miles old, which does sound consistent with something in the transmission going catastrophically wrong. They didn't use the term "blew up", but they were confident that whatever happened to the transmission was beyond repair. I did have the center diff replaced under warranty at about 30,000 miles (it started binding up in turns), so I'm wondering if there wasn't some underlying issue or damage in the drivetrain that just needed another 60,000 miles to decide to frag the transmission. I'm going to talk to the shop tomorrow to get some more details, so if you folks have some specific questions I should ask, I'd appreciate it. azflyboy fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 05:00
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The fluid smelled bad doesn't really explain that, and you would likely hear really loud and bad noises. It could be something simple like an inner cv that popped out of the diff, or something wrong with a wheel/brake. Or a spider in the front diff could be shattered and wedged into the housing and preventing one side from turning.
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Jan 8, 2015 08:46
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I'm not in the US any more but $2700 sounds way high for "random used tranny" and labour even if they are correct. Like, "we are going to clear $2,000 from this chump" high.
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Jan 8, 2015 12:54
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Thanks for the advice. The shop quoted me about $500 in labor for the swap, and looking online, I'm finding transmissions with between 110-150,000 miles on them for $500-700, so even assuming $200 in shipping, there's still over $1000 in the quoted price that needs some explaining. When I talk to the shop again today, I'm going to ask them to look at the diff and give me a more detailed explanation of exactly what's wrong with the transmission.
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Jan 8, 2015 14:13
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azflyboy posted:Thanks for the advice. Bolded is what I have issue with. I'm with jamal in thinking it could be something dumb like a brake or cv, or the front diff exploded and locked against the case. Can't really know unless it's on stands or a lift.
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Jan 8, 2015 17:02
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I will say that price is pretty much what I was quoted from a bunch of different places to swap in a junkyard transmission with a 90 day warranty into my WRX when it went. In my experience, most shops will not do the work (or jack the labor up a ton) if you try to bring your own parts.
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Jan 8, 2015 17:16
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DIY. The procedure to replace the trans isn't that different than what most people do to replace their clutch. For the price they're charging, do it every day all day long. You can probably find some local Subaru types who will even lend a hand for pizza and/or beer. My guess is part of that undocumented $1000 is that they want to replace the clutch/flywheel/TOB and maybe do the rear main seal at the same time. I probably would. That's a guess. If they aren't, then gently caress that. P&L in Chicago used to rebuild the 4.11 5MT for about $500 from all the 'common failures', it varied a bit but rarely significantly different. They did it so often and had 3-4 broken ones sitting around at any given time it wasn't a big deal to rebuild one. You say that it doesn't make sense to do this given the car is worth $4500, but remember, without it, it's worth a lot less than $4500 - probably less than (4500 - <trans cost + labor>) as well. Might be a $1000 sale if you don't fix it. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html
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Jan 8, 2015 17:22
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Looks like the brake line recall was just reissued because they didn't give proper instructions to the dealerships the first time and the first fix was ineffective.
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Jan 8, 2015 18:25
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bull3964 posted:Looks like the brake line recall was just reissued because they didn't give proper instructions to the dealerships the first time and the first fix was ineffective. So I was at a dealer doing a replacement for one of my TPMS sensors during the original recall and they said that they did whatever procedure was necessary even though I have after market stainless steel brakelines. Does this actually affect me? I can't figure it out from what I can google and getting to the dealer from my house is a pain in the rear end so I'd rather avoid it if I can.
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Jan 8, 2015 19:14
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Yes, it's not the brake lines at the end, it's the hard pipe connector near the firewall which is apparently made out of metal from recycled Lancias.
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Jan 8, 2015 19:23
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I don't think the issue is near the firewall. It's in the rear of the car. It's because of a gap in the fuel tank protector that could allow salt water to accumulate which could accelerate corroding the lines.
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Jan 8, 2015 19:34
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Ah, my bad then, I thought it was the front 4-way connector, it is apparently the rear then (or both?) Diagram seems to indicate the rear http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM457674/RCDNN-14V311-3369P.pdf
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Jan 8, 2015 19:37
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I have an 06 Outback wagon, automatic, 2.5. I've owned it since last Spring, and I was always getting around 24-25mpg, according to my car's little computer display that's linked to the trip odometer. Recently, it has plummeted to 18mpg. I have not done any manual calculations to confirm or deny this figure. Where might I begin to investigate? I recently replaced a handful of parts- the PCV valve, serpentine idler pulley, low beam bulbs, transmission filter and fluid, and I ran seafoam through it. It has 211k and seems to run great. It also has a rear wheel bearing that's going bad. I previously thought this was a center diff bearing, and thank god it isn't. My mechanic took it for a spin and determined it was just a wheel bearing making a loud hum at 40+ mph. It's not so bad that there's play, it just has very light scrape noise when the wheel is spun on a lift. Regardless, I can't help but feel my car as a drag on it, like when I let my foot off the gas and coast, it feels like somebody is lightly applying brakes. I checked all four corners and the brakes LOOK fine. Plenty of life on the pads, everything looks alright. I don't see any smoke or anything when I arrive at a destination, so I don't think I have a stuck caliper or anything. The car smells like burnt poo poo after driving a few dozen miles, but hey, I've never owned a car that didn't. And I also understand that it's difficult for a car to run 100% in the cold, and it has been cold for about a week here in upstate New York. But this poo poo MPG has been going on for more than a week or two. What kind of mpg are you guys getting with your automatic 2.5's?
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Jan 9, 2015 00:44
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I went into the shop today, and talked to the tech who had looked at the Forester. Apparently something inside the transmission completely broke apart, and the fragments jammed up the front diff, which explains the locked front wheel. This is a shop that does a fair amount of work on Subarus, and the tech said this is the first time in about a decade working there he's seen a Subaru transmission fail that way, so at least the transmission picked an original way to commit suicide. The shop also managed to source a transmission with only 50K miles from Japan (thanks, Japanese emissions laws!) for $50 more than the unit with 190k (with the same warranty), and the quote includes all of the labor to do the transmission swap, plus a clutch replacement, the required fluids, and sales tax. Doing the math, the payments and insurance hike on a newer vehicle mean that even if this transmission only lasted a year, I still come out ahead on the financial side, so I decided to have the work done.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:00
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TheFrailNinja posted:I have an 06 Outback wagon, automatic, 2.5. I've owned it since last Spring, and I was always getting around 24-25mpg, according to my car's little computer display that's linked to the trip odometer. Recently, it has plummeted to 18mpg. I have not done any manual calculations to confirm or deny this figure. Where might I begin to investigate? I recently replaced a handful of parts- the PCV valve, serpentine idler pulley, low beam bulbs, transmission filter and fluid, and I ran seafoam through it. It has 211k and seems to run great. It also has a rear wheel bearing that's going bad. I previously thought this was a center diff bearing, and thank god it isn't. My mechanic took it for a spin and determined it was just a wheel bearing making a loud hum at 40+ mph. It's not so bad that there's play, it just has very light scrape noise when the wheel is spun on a lift. Regardless, I can't help but feel my car as a drag on it, like when I let my foot off the gas and coast, it feels like somebody is lightly applying brakes. I checked all four corners and the brakes LOOK fine. Plenty of life on the pads, everything looks alright. I don't see any smoke or anything when I arrive at a destination, so I don't think I have a stuck caliper or anything. The car smells like burnt poo poo after driving a few dozen miles, but hey, I've never owned a car that didn't. And I also understand that it's difficult for a car to run 100% in the cold, and it has been cold for about a week here in upstate New York. But this poo poo MPG has been going on for more than a week or two. What kind of mpg are you guys getting with your automatic 2.5's? 02 sensors?
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Jan 9, 2015 01:03
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azflyboy posted:I went into the shop today, and talked to the tech who had looked at the Forester. While 2750 is still high... it isn't a deal breaker, I guess. Us new england folks are spoiled by you pull its and a crisp 100 dollar bill.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:03
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Slow is Fast posted:02 sensors? Could be a sensor of some kind. I just remembered I also replaced the air filter. poo poo was crusted with bugs and dust. The whole airbox assembly is kind of fits together loosely, but I can't imagine that causing a problem all of the sudden, after 200k+ miles. I thought to check the throttle position sensor because it seems to have a delay between application and reaction.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:09
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I think I just found the 1996 Outback I sold in November on Craigslist for $650. It's got a new tires now and no mention of the shot wheel bearing. I'm guessing it's changed hands at least twice based on the location, and a call from a rando 4 days after it first sold asking if I'd write him a bill of sale. Based on the swapping, my fears that the oil leak was from the HG and/or front main was probably correct.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:26
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Boys who love boys
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Slow is Fast posted:While 2750 is still high... it isn't a deal breaker, I guess. Us new england folks are spoiled by you pull its and a crisp 100 dollar bill. I live in Idaho, so I was thinking there might be somewhat better availability from all the Subarus in Oregon and Washington, but I guess there just aren't a ton of 5 speeds out there that are sold with any kind of warranty. Given that a new transmission from Subaru is $4k, and a used one with something past 100k was about $700, I figured $1300 (including shipping) for a transmission with 50,000 miles that was pulled out due to emissions laws (versus the car rusting out or being totaled) is pretty reasonable.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:37
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I'm kindof testing the waters of Subaru ownership after my parents just bought a brand new '15 Outback 3.6R. I DD a miata that my wife hates and I'd like to have something a touch more useful again. What should I be looking for? What are your guys' thoughts on something like this, a 2006 outback 2.5 limited with like 55K miles?
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Jan 9, 2015 13:37
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Taco Box posted:I'm kindof testing the waters of Subaru ownership after my parents just bought a brand new '15 Outback 3.6R. I DD a miata that my wife hates and I'd like to have something a touch more useful again. What should I be looking for? What are your guys' thoughts on something like this, a 2006 outback 2.5 limited with like 55K miles? If you drive a Miata I woudn't be thinking about an Outback. Impreza wagon would be a bit closer to the mark. Otherwise you're going to cry/drive off a cliff the first time you get to a corner.
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Jan 9, 2015 15:28
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Saga posted:If you drive a Miata I woudn't be thinking about an Outback. Impreza wagon would be a bit closer to the mark. Otherwise you're going to cry/drive off a cliff the first time you get to a corner. This would likely become my DD while the miata would become a garage queen. I guess I'm looking for a family truckster to haul my wife's art fair displays around (including a 10 foot ez-up) and the random trip to the hardware store for house projects. Also having a bikewagon would be the loving poo poo.This  is how I'm transporting my bike these days. So, impreza. What years should I be looking at to avoid potential head gasket issues? BloodBag fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 15:36
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Taco Box posted:
2015
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Jan 9, 2015 16:50
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daslog posted:2015 2015 is the same body style as 2012+, but they did a lot to improve road noise and added a lot of modern features to the stereo. And auto dimming side mirrors available. The side mirrors are huge, I wish I had these. Headgaskets are fine but there's a very small percentage that burn oil and need a shortblock replacement. I have fit two bicycles in the back of my 2012 with the seats down, but it was tight.
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Jan 9, 2015 16:55
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I was being snarky. They all have Headgasket issues. It's just the nature of the beast.
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Jan 9, 2015 16:59
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daslog posted:2015 That's kind of silly since I don't think there are any headgasket issues with the FB20 engines and those went into the Impreza starting in 2012.
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Jan 9, 2015 17:13
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2012+ is MLS gaskets as far as I know, so should be fine.
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Jan 9, 2015 17:15
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Taco Box posted:Also having a bikewagon would be the loving poo poo.This My Classic (93-00) is comfortably big enough to take my road bike with seats down and will definitely take 2. I can easily pop the bike in with the front wheel out and only half the rear bench folded, which is handy when I'm taking 1 child + our bikes. However, I'm not sure even the later Imprezas will take the huge loads your wife wants.  The benefit of the Impreza is once you get used to driving it like an AWD car, they are fun to drive, even lovely, old N/A ones like mine. Did the US get the previous version of the Forester? I would be tempted to see if you can get your wife's stuff into one of those, or a legacy wagon (do they exist where you are?), unless you particularly need the ground clearance and extra plastic of the Outback. Personally, I'm sceptical of the value of the Outback models' ground clearance, unless you live somewhere that has regular super-deep wet snow that you want to avoid having to plow or dig out of your wheel arches.
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Jan 9, 2015 18:00
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Saga posted:will take the huge loads your wife wants. Heh 
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Jan 9, 2015 18:20
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Saga posted:My Classic (93-00) is comfortably big enough to take my road bike with seats down and will definitely take 2. I can easily pop the bike in with the front wheel out and only half the rear bench folded, which is handy when I'm taking 1 child + our bikes. However, I'm not sure even the later Imprezas will take the huge loads your wife wants. I was able to get that tent in the car when I had a third gen focus after I unbolted the seat bottoms. I can't imagine an impreza is very different in size to one of those. I wouldn't mind a forester at all. I like that they're shorter wheelbase than the legacy outback, which seems like a pretty bigass car. I was also able to get two folding tables, a bunch of display hardware, some tackleboxes, and piles of her wares. I had to tetris it all in there, but I got it to work. She's looking to do more fairs this year so I feel like I gotta get a move on.
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Jan 9, 2015 18:35
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How much ground clearance do you lose from the Fumoto valves? I'm debating getting one, but I really enjoy the ridiculous clearance my OBS has for the rare times I go on roads that are just two tire ruts, or where there's rocks and erosion all over the place.
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Jan 9, 2015 19:38
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Seat Safety Switch posted:2012+ is MLS gaskets as far as I know, so should be fine. They still go, just not as frequently.
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Jan 9, 2015 19:46
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22 Eargesplitten posted:How much ground clearance do you lose from the Fumoto valves? I'm debating getting one, but I really enjoy the ridiculous clearance my OBS has for the rare times I go on roads that are just two tire ruts, or where there's rocks and erosion all over the place. Is your oil pan already above the subframe? Shouldn't be an issue. 
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Jan 9, 2015 19:55
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My WRX is running like poo poo at idle and under throttle. What's the procedure for diagnosing what the issue is?
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Jan 9, 2015 22:22
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Looking at the scheduled service for my 2013 Outback 2.5 Premium, it mentions replacing the fuel filter at 60,000 miles. This filter is in the tank, so not as easy as the old models, but not too bad overall. The consensus seems to be that it doesn't need done until 90,000, but I'd like to follow the schedule. The only fuel filter I can find for my MY is part number 42072AJ060, and price is around $80. Can anyone confirm this? Is the job pretty straight forward? I'm going to order the workshop manual off of eBay, but others have posted the process on other model years. It requires finding the access above the tank, relieving fuel pressure, disconnecting hoses/wires, lift out pump/filter unit, and replace the filter.
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Jan 9, 2015 22:56
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So I picked up my new Outback 2.5 Limited last month, and it's been a blast so far. The adaptive cruise control feels really weird at first, but once you get used to its capabilities and limitations, it's like having a copilot to handle the throttle and brakes while you focus on steering and navigation. As one of my friends with an Outback said, "it takes 90% of the rage out of road rage". Fantastic for long trips, and really well designed. The trunk is enormous, and with the seats down I'm pretty sure I could raise cattle back there. All the other little bells and whistles are cool too. I'll be living an hour and a half from Lake Tahoe for the next few years, so it should come in very handy.
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Jan 9, 2015 23:33
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Wingnut Ninja posted:. I'll be living an hour and a half from Lake Tahoe for the next few years, so it should come in very handy. You think? It's never snowing again. 
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Jan 10, 2015 02:30
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daslog posted:My WRX is running like poo poo at idle and under throttle. Check your vacuum lines, MAF sensor, etc. - generally start from the top and work your way down until you get to fueling/spark.
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Jan 10, 2015 02:37
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Taco Box posted:So, impreza. What years should I be looking at to avoid potential head gasket issues? Daslog answered the question really poorly and because he's old doesnt understand humor. So your choices are depending on budget. 2001 and down impreza wagons and outback SPORTS are going to come with a 2.2 L that doesnt have headgasket or rod bearing issues and will generally be bulletproof minus regular age issues such as rust and rubber gaskets bler bler bler. 2002+ impreza wagons and OBS's are all 2.5L's which have the headgasket issues as noted by the OP. Once they are done with the correct MLS gasket they should be fine forever. If you are looking at imprezas and they are at or over 105k miles and do not have paperwork for a timing belt, assume it needs to be done. If it doesn't have paperwork for headgaskets being done, you either go "this car needs headgaskets and a timing set, it will cost this dollars, reduce price by this dollars". They either do it or you walk. Otherwise you get a car with the documented work and it should be worry free. Also, doing the belt is not enough. All the timing pullies need to be done as well. The pullies fail before the belt does. Link the car and we can better guesstimate if it is terrible or not.
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Jan 10, 2015 04:06
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I think I need new headlights. Is that something I can replace myself without needing to re-aim them? And what brand should I go for? I haven't replaced these things in the 5 years I've owned the car, and I didn't notice any mention of them being replaced in the notes the PO left in the manual last time I was looking through it.
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Jan 10, 2015 04:59
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