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Well I mean what info do you need about it? A lot of us here do it and would be glad to help.
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Jan 7, 2015 19:48
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Bag of Sun Chips posted:Anybody have a link to a good kegging guide? I have no equipment for it but I'm going to pick up a couple brand new ball lock kegs for $75 each. I thought this was a pretty good getting started guide: http://handsonbrewing.com/brewers-reference/process/kegging/
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Jan 7, 2015 20:33
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I thought this was a pretty good getting started guide: http://handsonbrewing.com/brewers-reference/process/kegging/ This one too https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/1312/Summerzym95-Kegging_How-To.pdf
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Jan 7, 2015 21:02
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more falafel please posted:I get 70-75% typically. Unless I'm trying to do a small beer, then I'll estimate 80% and still usually overshoot :/ This is me too pretty much. I get about 70%+ on big beers too; I sparge SLOW AS gently caress. Bumped me a good 15-20% in efficiency.
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Jan 7, 2015 22:19
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Jacobey000 posted:This is me too pretty much. I get about 70%+ on big beers too; I sparge SLOW AS gently caress. Bumped me a good 15-20% in efficiency. I get 60 consistently, which I guess is good cause it's consistent. Going to introduce a dunk sparge to my biab to hopefully hit 70. I'll be so drat pleased if I hit 70,
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Jan 7, 2015 22:28
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Jacobey000 posted:This is me too pretty much. I get about 70%+ on big beers too; I sparge SLOW AS gently caress. Bumped me a good 15-20% in efficiency. That reminds me, why is it that you are supposed to drain your mash tun slowly? I get 70% almost exactly every time (except last time I got 78%, go go new mill!) and I just open the valve on my mash tun all the way to drain as fast as I can. Does draining slower help efficiency?
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Jan 7, 2015 23:32
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Glottis posted:That reminds me, why is it that you are supposed to drain your mash tun slowly? I get 70% almost exactly every time (except last time I got 78%, go go new mill!) and I just open the valve on my mash tun all the way to drain as fast as I can. Does draining slower help efficiency? If you're batch sparging, there's no reason to drain slowly unless draining quickly causes a stuck lauter. Counterintuitively for me draining slowly makes it stick, I have much less issue when it's draining fast. For fly sparging though, the more time the water has in contact with the grain the better efficiency you get, plus the slower you go the less likely you are to get channeling.
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Jan 7, 2015 23:55
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Hey guys, what's the best practice for using pectinol? I'm doing a table saison this weekend and half of it I will be adding cascara (dried coffee cherries) after primary. I read that pectic enzymes are inhibited by alcohol so should I add extra when I add the cascara or maybe let them sit in a tea with the pectinol for a while before adding?
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Jan 8, 2015 02:11
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Bobsledboy posted:Hey guys, what's the best practice for using pectinol? I'm doing a table saison this weekend and half of it I will be adding cascara (dried coffee cherries) after primary. I read that pectic enzymes are inhibited by alcohol so should I add extra when I add the cascara or maybe let them sit in a tea with the pectinol for a while before adding? Ive used pectic enzyme in alcohol. It works fine but you need to use more than if you added it before alcohol.
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Jan 8, 2015 02:32
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Has anyone with a kegerator ever experienced where when you start a pour after sitting idle, it will start to pour, then pause making a sound similar to when a keg is tapped, but then resume normally? It's just been with this keg of deviant dales so I'm not sure if there's a relation or something wrong with my sanke coupler
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Jan 8, 2015 02:45
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MickRaider posted:Has anyone with a kegerator ever experienced where when you start a pour after sitting idle, it will start to pour, then pause making a sound similar to when a keg is tapped, but then resume normally? Like it pours, quick sputter, pours again? I've always assumed the first part is what was in the line, and the cough is because some CO2 came out of solution while it was idle, or otherwise got in the line.
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Jan 8, 2015 03:27
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Woo, finally caught up on a 2 year homebrew thread backlog. What up, homebrew thread? I've been brewing for almost 10 years, but I've probably only made 4 batches in the past 4 years. That's all about to change, though. I helped my Fiancee brew her first batch before Thanksgiving, and she really enjoyed it (and got me a bunch of brewing related Christmas presents), so I'm going to try and take brewing more seriously this year. It looks like the local homebrew clubs have improved a lot in the past 6 years, the number of microbreweries in town is set to double next year, and we have a great homebrew store. As part of this, I threw together some beer bottle crates earlier this week. I was tired of cardboard cases falling apart and being a hassle.    Finally, a question: Does anyone have a good go-to winter spiced ale recipe?
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Jan 8, 2015 03:34
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Zuph posted:Finally, a question: Does anyone have a good go-to winter spiced ale recipe? This definitely isn't a go-to since I've never made it before, and it's a lot different than what most people want in a winter warmer but this is what I'm brewing this weekend: 50% munich 35% vienna 10% honey malt 5% caramunich Nobleish hops to 20 IBU @ 60 min 4 oz ginger and 2-3 cinnamon sticks @ 5 min White Labs Edinburgh fermented @ 66-68*F OG 1.046
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Jan 8, 2015 03:57
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more falafel please posted:Like it pours, quick sputter, pours again? I've always assumed the first part is what was in the line, and the cough is because some CO2 came out of solution while it was idle, or otherwise got in the line. Yeah that's what happens. I'm just confused because it's never happened until this keg. On another topic. I found out last april I have a Hop allergy (brutal, I know) I've given up beer for a few months to try and get my allergies under control and see if I can get a better understanding on how to manage this. I bought a filter kit a while ago to try and reduce particulates in my homebrew. Is there anyone out there with experience, or heard of someone, with a similar situation? I really don't want to give up my hobby or passion for beer. I'm wondering if there's a way to see which hops I'm more sensitive to than other, or some way of defining it more specifically. I guess there's always the magical world of Sours, meads, and ciders to dive into. MickRaider fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 04:00
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Zuph posted:As part of this, I threw together some beer bottle crates earlier this week. I was tired of cardboard cases falling apart and being a hassle. 
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Jan 8, 2015 04:20
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MickRaider posted:Yeah that's what happens. I'm just confused because it's never happened until this keg. I have no real knowledge of anyone who has experienced it, but I'd be curious to know what in the hops causes the allergy. Maybe a small amount of high alpha acid hops early in the boil to add some bitterness would be ok if you cooled quickly to try to get them out of suspension and then did a cold crash and secondary to clear it up more. Maybe even some fining adjuncts?
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Jan 8, 2015 05:06
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You could also try gruits. Im sure theres plenty of other bittering things you can add. But yeah that sucks and i hope im never in a situation where i cant do the one thing i love.
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Jan 8, 2015 05:19
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Ive used pectic enzyme in alcohol. It works fine but you need to use more than if you added it before alcohol. Cool, thanks!
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Jan 8, 2015 05:35
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Josh Wow posted:This definitely isn't a go-to since I've never made it before, and it's a lot different than what most people want in a winter warmer but this is what I'm brewing this weekend: I just ran a 5 litrestarter of Edinburgh  it's going into my smoked bourbon barrel imperial stout which won't actually be drunk for at least 6 months yet. I think this stout is my most complex beer by a long shot (bar maybe heady topper or its Australian hopped cousin, Chazzwazzers Hopfuck). Usually I use maybe 3 malts at most and one or two hops. Nice and basic is good.On topic though WLP028 owns
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Jan 8, 2015 13:07
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McSpergin posted:...Chazzwazzers Hopfuck... Stealing this
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Jan 8, 2015 13:20
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MickRaider posted:On another topic. I found out last april I have a Hop allergy (brutal, I know) If this were me, I'd use it as an opportunity to make ciders and meads like crazy - and maybe even start a hive. I'd also make friends with an orchard. The difference between "drinking cider" and "cider for making" is striking; I didn't think there could be that big of a difference before we did a group buy on the ladder. That stuff is amazing. Also: if you are looking for something to replace at least PART of the hops - experiment with grapefruit, and/or bitter almond (apricot pits) for the bittering part. In china they use bitter melon for all of their bitterness in most of their beers due to the price of hops there. I'm sure you could find at least a way around it. If you aren't allergic to the oils and are more allergic to the organic material - I'd check out hop shots and see if you can 'stand' those in lieu of flavor and aroma hops.
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Jan 8, 2015 13:59
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Coffee milk stout didn't turn out as planned. Expected OG 1.059 FG 1.018 Actual OG 1.050 FG 1.022 My refractometer said 1.035 but I trust my hydrometer more. Used a really good fresh ground Kenya coffee, don't think it was one of the COE ones we had though. Didn't sink the bag, poured it in loose and I think we got some oxidation on it. Adding grounds I still think is better than brewed coffee which is always way oxidized to me. Was making Brett Trois IPA today, but had too much sparge and strike so we had a total boil of 168 minutes to boil it off. We had already added our 60 min Belma addition. The dme starter was fantastic though so if it's not ridiculously bitter I'm excited for the beer.
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Jan 8, 2015 16:01
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Kenyan might not have been the best choice for that beer. Kenya is one of the more acidic, bright tasting coffee regions which is pretty contradictory to a milk stout. I'd have used something more mellow and chocolate-y like a Brazilian. It'll help that you're essentially cold brewing which helps keep acid levels low, but I think the flavor profile is the opposite of what would work best with that style.
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Jan 8, 2015 16:07
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I recently purchased a bag of Counter Culture Aleme Wako that has a serious light berry and milk chocolate thing going on. It's drat delicious and I really want to put it in a beer. A sweet stout would probably be perfect.
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Jan 8, 2015 16:16
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rockcity posted:Kenyan might not have been the best choice for that beer. Kenya is one of the more acidic, bright tasting coffee regions which is pretty contradictory to a milk stout. I'd have used something more mellow and chocolate-y like a Brazilian. It'll help that you're essentially cold brewing which helps keep acid levels low, but I think the flavor profile is the opposite of what would work best with that style. It was one of the beers that Coffee Libre (in Seoul) had in their coffee cupping on Wednesday. Was a natural process coffee that wasn't really acidic at all when brewed and had a nice dark chocolate fruit thing going on with some pipe tobacco aroma. I actually really like using the out of stereotype African coffees. The biggest thing that I struggle with in all coffee stouts is the oxidized quality. Tastes likes the canned coffee that is so popular in this part of the world. 'Dutch' coffee is really popular here too and that is done open air so that's always oxidized too. Really want to try something like Mad Fermentationist's coffee blonde using a bright acidic fruity coffee in a blonde.
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Jan 8, 2015 16:45
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Thanks for the ideas guys. All really interesting stuff. The beer that caused mild anaphylactic shock was a barrel aged saison. I ended up getting some of the stuff at the bottom and I think it was a high enough concentration to trigger it. I've never had it off a filtered beer, but it usually just results in a congested nose and waking up with sinus pain. Really sucks cause my favorite beer has been IPA's.
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Jan 8, 2015 16:49
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DontAskKant posted:Used a really good fresh ground Kenya coffee, don't think it was one of the COE ones we had though. Didn't sink the bag, poured it in loose and I think we got some oxidation on it. Adding grounds I still think is better than brewed coffee which is always way oxidized to me. I did loose grounds and a few weeks later I'm using CO2 to push the plug of grounds out of my dip tube. I put a steel mesh on the end, but I'm so tired of clogged tubes. Cold brew extract from now on. I haven't had oxidation related flavors in any of them. You might be able to put grounds into a vessel and CO2 purge, then add carefully.
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Jan 8, 2015 20:32
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Finally got a chance to finish brewing that pale ale from tuesday. It warmed up to a balmy 24f, so I figured it was now or never! So, to recap, I boiled it for about an hour on tuesday night before my propane tank quit working, and then it sat on the counter until this afternoon waiting for the other 30 minutes of boiling and accompanying hop additions. Of course, I had a work emergency right after it started boiling, so it ended up going for a little over an hour. I'm really not sure how it's going to turn out, what with all of the extra boiling time and the 1.5oz of cascade that sat in it for a day and a half and everything. Fingers crossed!
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Jan 8, 2015 21:56
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I'm doing a bare boring 3 gallons of cider with standard yellow packet yeast. I threw in half a tsp of nutrient at "brew time" (when I dumped it in a bucket). Should I throw in a half tsp more at 3/5 days? Planning on getting this ready by the 16th. I put it down on the 6th. I just want it as dry as it's going to be so I can then backsweeten (can of frozen concentrate) and keg. I'm not trying to enter a competition, just offering a gluten free option. Just wondering if throwing in more nutrient might help it get to that point in 10 days versus the close to 14 I'd usually give it sans nutrient.
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Jan 8, 2015 21:59
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Adult Sword Owner posted:I'm doing a bare boring 3 gallons of cider with standard yellow packet yeast. I threw in half a tsp of nutrient at "brew time" (when I dumped it in a bucket). Should I throw in a half tsp more at 3/5 days? Planning on getting this ready by the 16th. I put it down on the 6th. Speaking of ciders, I had an interesting idea today, inspired by some recent things I have read about for ice ciders. -Buy cans of frozen apple juice concentrate (without preservative) -Allow cans to thaw into a liquid. -Pour into carboy with some yeast nutrient, Montrache/Champagne yeast, and dilute with water until you get an OG of 1.130 (or whatever your target is) -Ferment out as much as possible, then carbonate like a champagne
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Jan 9, 2015 02:31
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ScaerCroe posted:Speaking of ciders, I had an interesting idea today, inspired by some recent things I have read about for ice ciders. That last step may be tricky. Do you mean you'd just ferment to completion (which means either dry cider with live yeast or sweet rocket fuel and dead yeast) and then prime enough to bottle carb? If you make a high gravity cider you'll end up with lots of residual sugar but the yeast dies getting there so to get natural carbonation you have to know exactly when to bottle before the yeast gives up. Too early you made bombs, too late no carbonation whether you prime or not. I'd for sure use champagne or PET bottles for safety. You can look at different yeasts to get the alcohol tolerance you want and base your gravity on that but choose with flavor in mind also - champagne yeast for example makes bad cider even with a lot of residual sweetness IMO. I've bottled ice cider and what was effectively ice dandelion wine (tastes like a double riesling, not something I can take much of at a time) but I bottled them still to avoid all that. I bottle sparkling dry cider every year and that's as easy as bottling beer. You could force-carb a sweet strong cider if you're sure the yeast has quit (or you could sterile-filter any cider at any level of sweetness you like, or use chemical stabilizers) and then bottle it - it seems to me that in almost every case sweet carbonated cider calls for kegging, unless you have the devotion to learn some tricky methods and know your ingredients and methods backwards and forwards. Sorry that's pretty wordy.
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Jan 9, 2015 08:55
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Speaking of coffee stouts and porters, I had found a local roasters in town. I had a cup of their "crowd pleaser" blend and  it was absolutely loving amazing. Super mellow character, no bitterness at all. So good that I went back after work and got a bag of coffee. Now I'm thinking what I can make! Imperial coffee porter sounds good.So my question: what ratio of coffee do you guys use in beers?
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Jan 9, 2015 10:42
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ChickenArise posted:I did loose grounds and a few weeks later I'm using CO2 to push the plug of grounds out of my dip tube. I put a steel mesh on the end, but I'm so tired of clogged tubes. Cold brew extract from now on. I haven't had oxidation related flavors in any of them. You might be able to put grounds into a vessel and CO2 purge, then add carefully. 1.75oz of fresh grounds in 19L for 20 hrs.
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Jan 9, 2015 13:36
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McSpergin posted:Speaking of coffee stouts and porters, I had found a local roasters in town. I had a cup of their "crowd pleaser" blend and I've only done one coffee stout, but I made a cold brew concentrate and used about 8oz of in in the secondary of a 5 gallon batch.
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Jan 9, 2015 15:05
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Myron Baloney posted:That last step may be tricky. Do you mean you'd just ferment to completion (which means either dry cider with live yeast or sweet rocket fuel and dead yeast) and then prime enough to bottle carb? If you make a high gravity cider you'll end up with lots of residual sugar but the yeast dies getting there so to get natural carbonation you have to know exactly when to bottle before the yeast gives up. Too early you made bombs, too late no carbonation whether you prime or not. I'd for sure use champagne or PET bottles for safety. You can look at different yeasts to get the alcohol tolerance you want and base your gravity on that but choose with flavor in mind also - champagne yeast for example makes bad cider even with a lot of residual sweetness IMO. I've bottled ice cider and what was effectively ice dandelion wine (tastes like a double riesling, not something I can take much of at a time) but I bottled them still to avoid all that. I bottle sparkling dry cider every year and that's as easy as bottling beer. You could force-carb a sweet strong cider if you're sure the yeast has quit (or you could sterile-filter any cider at any level of sweetness you like, or use chemical stabilizers) and then bottle it - it seems to me that in almost every case sweet carbonated cider calls for kegging, unless you have the devotion to learn some tricky methods and know your ingredients and methods backwards and forwards. Sorry that's pretty wordy. I was thinking of fermenting until the yeast give up the ghost. If need be I can force carb in my kegs, as I did with my 15% Eisbock.
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Jan 9, 2015 15:11
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ScaerCroe posted:I was thinking of fermenting until the yeast give up the ghost. If need be I can force carb in my kegs, as I did with my 15% Eisbock.
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Jan 9, 2015 17:54
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Myron Baloney posted:That sounds sensible to me - it leaves getting it to taste good as the main issue to focus on. Haha, I hope that is always the main issue with brewing! My hope is that the concentrate will leave behind a lot of the apple flavor, and not using cider apples will help keep the tartness/acidity down to tolerable levels.
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Jan 9, 2015 22:41
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I'd be more concerned about what those yeast are going to do when you push them that hard. I doubt it's anything time wouldn't solve.
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Jan 9, 2015 22:45
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ChickenArise posted:I'd be more concerned about what those yeast are going to do when you push them that hard. I doubt it's anything time wouldn't solve. I've found that wine yeast <3 really acidic environments. At least cotes des blancs does. Every time I use it in a cyser (mead) it overshoots tolerance 2-3% ABV. Champagne yeast is the honey badger of the yeast world. It don't care.
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Jan 9, 2015 23:09
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rockcity posted:I've only done one coffee stout, but I made a cold brew concentrate and used about 8oz of in in the secondary of a 5 gallon batch. And as a coffee stout, how was that? I'm debating what to use but it will likely be a single origin. And what water:coffee ratio did you concentrate at? I've used between 1:3 for making bulk iced coffee to 1:6 for normal drinking up to 1:14 for actual French pressed coffee
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Jan 10, 2015 15:04
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