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I don't know what a Phantom 2 comes with, but a 3-axis gimbal for the GoPro makes a 2-axis gimbal look like trash.
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Jan 7, 2015 06:39
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 It's not really impressive. But the important point, is that it works. +5v in, video goes out to my reciever and I can see it in my goggles. .. did you know a full wave antenna at 5.8ghz is 1.9 inches?
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Jan 7, 2015 09:09
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hahah nice - I crashed my micro fpv so hard it broke the antenna jack off. Fortunately it was just the solder joints so I re-soldered tonight.
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Jan 7, 2015 09:47
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I'm so surprised with how much damage I've caused to my Hubsan in the short time that I've had it. Still have the original props, and they look absolutely knackered. One's been bent at least three times, and it just keeps soldering on.
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Jan 7, 2015 10:33
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Odette posted:I'm so surprised with how much damage I've caused to my Hubsan in the short time that I've had it. Still have the original props, and they look absolutely knackered. One's been bent at least three times, and it just keeps soldering on. i glanced at the props on my Revell Nano quad (estes proto-x rebrand?) and i'm amazed it can even fly. in other news,  this is a pending shopping basket for me, to do a build based around http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__68596__Trifecta_Mini_Foldable_Tricopter_Frame_KIT_.html which seems really cool! I have no idea if tri-rotors are harder to fly than quads, but it sure as hell looks amazing! I won't be pressing buy for quite some while due to finances/wanting to train some more with my syma x5c, but other than a TX/RX combo, is there anything else obviously missing from that shopping list?
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Jan 7, 2015 13:15
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You need to buy the TGY-9018 MG servo that is not included with the frame. Also, you should buy tons of props if it's your first larger build. Tricopter should fly pretty similar to a quad, but with better yaw authority
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Jan 7, 2015 13:39
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Frobbe posted:http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__68596__Trifecta_Mini_Foldable_Tricopter_Frame_KIT_.html which seems really cool! I have no idea if tri-rotors are harder to fly than quads, but it sure as hell looks amazing! Woah, that frame looks awesome! I've been waiting for a good mini tricopter frame and this one supports up to 8" props and is foldable? Yes, please.
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Jan 7, 2015 14:05
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on the left posted:You need to buy the TGY-9018 MG servo that is not included with the frame. Also, you should buy tons of props if it's your first larger build. i did notice the servo in the recommended acc. list but was confused as to why it's there. is it for the tail rotor? EDIT: I just watched the youtube video, all is clear now! Frobbe fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 14:08
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Frobbe posted:i did notice the servo in the recommended acc. list but was confused as to why it's there. is it for the tail rotor? Yeah, basically the common config for tricopters is the props all turn CCW, and the computer "aims" the rear prop in the right direction so that the yaw from rotational force of those three motors is counteracted. There are a few configurations of this, but importantly, naze uses all CCW props, so only buy CCW props. Check out the manual here: http://www.abusemark.com/downloads/naze32_rev2.pdf It may be different if you use Cleanflight or other alternate firmwares though.
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Jan 7, 2015 14:13
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I've been looking into a Hubsan X4 after owning one of those mini tiny micro quads, but in all honesty I'd like a little project and a lot more power. Something that could have better motors added to it down the line to maybe carry GoPro+3axis gimbal, but that's only the wishlist. For now I just want to build and fly it. I see lots of kits on hobbyking but they all seem geared towards mid to full-sized quads. Is there a kit available that is roughly hubsan X4-sized or a bit larger? http://www.quadrysteria.com/store/p60/Nemesis_240_Mini_Quadcopter.html I really like this frame but i know nothing about anything. Another thing, 2 of the motors on my lil nano quad have started making a clicking noise when I turn the prop, I think this means I burned them out because those two don't rotate as freely anymore, and sort of "land" at the same orientation every time when spun freely. These are those 7x15 tiny coreless motors. I've tried replacing them with motors of the same size salvaged from other electronics but none of the replacements have the power that the originals do. I was wondering if I just replaced all 4 motors at once so at least the power output is equal, can I get away with turning "CW" motors into "CCW" by reversing the motor wires? These arent brushless or anything fancy, just garbage bog standard coreless mini motors. I know it can work technically, but will it rotate with the same power in reverse? My guess is no, and they sell CW/CCW motors for a reason, but the skeptic inside me wonders...
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Jan 8, 2015 00:24
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Ok double post but:Nerobro posted:I'm pretty proud of this: Astronaut Jones posted:Started getting into quads a couple of months ago, figured I'd show off some of the family. The 250 is a Strider I just finished building and have barely had time to maiden. These types of quads is what I'd like to take a stab at. Little ones, but with brushless motors and bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 00:51
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:I've been looking into a Hubsan X4 after owning one of those mini tiny micro quads, but in all honesty I'd like a little project and a lot more power. Something that could have better motors added to it down the line to maybe carry GoPro+3axis gimbal, but that's only the wishlist. For now I just want to build and fly it. I see lots of kits on hobbyking but they all seem geared towards mid to full-sized quads. Is there a kit available that is roughly hubsan X4-sized or a bit larger? You need a decent amount of prop area to be able to safely lift your $600 gopro + gimbal combination. I would definitely recommend picking up a Phantom I on sale if you want to do it inexpensively, reliably, and easily without knowing anything about RC.
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Jan 8, 2015 02:22
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Most of the smaller guys are lifting mobius cameras these days. They don't have the quality of a gopro, but they're way cheaper and lighter. Once you start hefting a gimble, physics dictates something roughly 400 size or larger.
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Jan 8, 2015 02:30
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Also the weight of an external recorder to get uncompressed video out of the gopro. Maybe video is a bit much to hope for. Even if I built a little Nemesis 240 based quad or one of these guys: with some low power motors to learn on right now, is there no type of motor+battery combo I could add that would get it flying a gopro+gimbal if I wanted to spend the money in the future? Is it that the props required to lift the weight would be too large for the frame, or is it too small to be stable carrying that weight? Where's the bottleneck there? Those DJI's look sort of boring, but I know they're amazing kits if the youtube videos are anything to go by. I was hoping to find a parts company that sold all-in-one sort of quad kits for beginners to build themselves. I guess that's sort of what the frame kits on Hobby King are? You just add the motors and controllers? Do you need a GPS on it if you arent planning on programming flights? Are they required for stability? bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 02:56
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Got some secondhand Fatshark Dominators (V2, I think) coming in the mail for some multirotor FPV fun. I assume I need a camera, rx/tx and antennas? Transmitter (Fatshark 250mW V3 5.8 GHz) Receiver (Fatshark 5.8 GHz module) Camera (Fatshark 600TVL) I have no idea regarding antennas, or if these above items are worth it. Can I get some feedback, or suitable/cheaper replacement parts?
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Jan 8, 2015 04:09
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Odette posted:Got some secondhand Fatshark Dominators (V2, I think) coming in the mail for some multirotor FPV fun. Those are good products and will do very well for you. The most popular (for good reason) camera out there right now is the PZ0420, which is about the same price, and seems to be a little less affected by vibration. Also, an Immersion 600mW Vtx is about ten bucks more and will get you much better range. For antennas, the ones that it comes with are fine to get into the air. Get some circular polarized ones like this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__62527__5_8GHz_Circular_Polarized_Antenna_Set_Transmitter_and_Receiver_90_SMA_.html if you want better performance around reflective objects like trees and buildings, though the range with the normal antennas will be slightly better in more open settings.
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Jan 8, 2015 04:17
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Wojcigitty posted:Those are good products and will do very well for you. The most popular (for good reason) camera out there right now is the PZ0420, which is about the same price, and seems to be a little less affected by vibration. Also, an Immersion 600mW Vtx is about ten bucks more and will get you much better range. This camera? It was the first google result, so I'd say so. Which lens size would be ideal? The page says 2.1/2.8/3.6mm options are available. Also, why are these antennas more expensive? The brand?
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Jan 8, 2015 04:29
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:Ok double post but: They're called "250 class quadcopters". As I understand it, this: http://www.getfpv.com/blackout-mini-h-quad-frame.html The Blackout Mini H, is the gold standard. That said, you can do something as simple as the Maltese, which is quite literally a flat routed piece of 3mm G10 fiberglass. And 8 aluminum standoffs. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__65243__HobbyKing_Maltese_230mm_Acro_Quad_Copter_frame_Kit_.html 32MB OF ESRAM posted:Also the weight of an external recorder to get uncompressed video out of the gopro. Maybe video is a bit much to hope for. Even if I built a little Nemesis 240 based quad or one of these guys: The "race quad" frames, and that Maltese frame are really quite different. The Maltese frame is an acrobatic frame. It's goal is to be as simple, light, and crash resistant as can be. Race 250 quads tend to have fuselages, with room for FPV gear. Both will happily carry quite a bit of weight. My X-Factor, will happily carry my HD camera, a 200mw transmitter, and metal cased camera.  I need to get a shot of it with the camera strapped on it. With everything stacked on there, it's around 650g. And it's quite a stable camera platform. Weight carrying capacity is a somewhat strange subject. Really, it comes down to "bigger props are better." But a gopro, on a gimbal, isn't exactly heavy. It looks like the typical gopro brushless gimbal is in the 200g range. And 100g if you don't mind using servos. Either of my quads would happily carry that into the sky. I bet the Maltese would even do it on 2s. HobbyKing, and sever other sources do sell all (or most) in one kits. Hobbyking has three or four, two in the 250class. Now.. if you want to learn to pilot a quadcopter, 250 class birds are big and powerful. Like, damage property, and or yourself. (my friend has a series of six bloody wounds on his arms from his board deciding to power up the props the other night.. It was a 12point crash. All four props lost their blades.) If you want to learn quadcoptering, micro quads are where it's at. You don't need GPS to have that rock steady video you see from phantoms. That comes from the gimbal.
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Jan 8, 2015 04:37
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Not sure if this applies to many people here other than me, but DJI has finally released new Android software which is now natively picked up on the Play store with the big Galaxy note tablets. Used to be you'd have to do a work around, but not anymore. Haven't flown with it yet (miserable) but it looks good. e: Looks like I was wrong, it is inspire software 
slidebite fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 04:40
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Odette posted:This camera? It was the first google result, so I'd say so. Which lens size would be ideal? The page says 2.1/2.8/3.6mm options are available. Yes. 3.6mm lens seems to be the favorite (I am running it and like it). The genuine Immersion antennas are probably higher build quality but will likely perform the same as the cheap ones.
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Jan 8, 2015 04:42
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I thought 2.8 was preferred for multirotors, and higher for fixed wing fpv. I replaced my 3.6 with a 2.1 personally, but haven't had a chance to try it out
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Jan 8, 2015 04:58
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:Those DJI's look sort of boring, but I know they're amazing kits if the youtube videos are anything to go by. I was hoping to find a parts company that sold all-in-one sort of quad kits for beginners to build themselves. I guess that's sort of what the frame kits on Hobby King are? You just add the motors and controllers? Yeah, Hobbyking sells quads of various completeness. If you want to order parts that will work as a kit, I will take some time to put together a parts list to order from Hobbyking that will work together guaranteed. Just confirm what your goals are and if you are ok with soldering or not. I recently built up this frame and it's awesome for the following reasons: - Ultra-stiff arms - dihedral layout makes it ultra-stable for video - designed for rails/gimbal mount - includes good legs - integrated PCB has dedicated extra traces for FPV/Gimbal hookup - Good manual -  a bill of materials that lists the exact screws used and how many there are and where they go (and includes extras)- includes motor mount screws - can accomodate up to 12in props
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Jan 8, 2015 06:04
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:Ok double post but: If you're looking for H quads, look into the Strider, Blackout, Minion, QAV250. If you're looking to go cheap, there are Chinese knockoffs of the Blackout you can buy on Banggood that are crazy cheap. You'll need to source the PDB for them though, but they are available on RC Groups. Astronaut Jones fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 14:15
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every online shop that sells multirotor parts should have little pdb boards, unless you want some sort of specially shaped one with all the non motor power spots.
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Jan 8, 2015 18:33
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A Yolo Wizard posted:every online shop that sells multirotor parts should have little pdb boards, unless you want some sort of specially shaped one with all the non motor power spots. There's nice ones purpose built for the Cloneout and Blackout frames that are pretty nice. I still think the Strider is the most solid of the bunch.
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Jan 8, 2015 18:37
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Yeah, i just saw another being worked on http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2306948 Heres the one you probably meant http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2260906 I've also seen one that fit in the main area and sorta stacked with / hovered under the FC. Something about using pcbs as structural support on the underside always worries me though.
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Jan 8, 2015 18:49
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Just got a big ol' box of parts from Hobby King for my first build. Didn't realize the screws would be mostly tiny hex heads, so I have to run to a hardware store for drivers. Is locktite a good idea?
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Jan 8, 2015 23:52
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loctite on your motors. BLUE loctite
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Jan 9, 2015 00:46
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Erwin posted:Just got a big ol' box of parts from Hobby King for my first build. Didn't realize the screws would be mostly tiny hex heads, so I have to run to a hardware store for drivers. Is locktite a good idea? It's never a bad idea, just use the weakest stuff if it's parts you'll be replacing often.
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Jan 9, 2015 00:46
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsHMjWORFvI More evidence that it's perfectly fine to learn to fly on a Phantom as long as you're a good catch.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:31
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Also make sure the locktite doesn't touch anything plastic. Locktite eats plastic. It's only meant for touching metal parts.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:33
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Zigmoose posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsHMjWORFvI drat, I know the wide angle exaggerates it but that was hilariously close I posted this above but I think it got overlooked by my 250 frame kit questions. quote:Another thing, 2 of the motors on my lil nano quad have started making a clicking noise when I turn the prop, I think this means I burned them out because those two don't rotate as freely anymore, and sort of "land" at the same orientation every time when spun freely. These are those 7x15 tiny coreless motors. I've tried replacing them with motors of the same size salvaged from other electronics but none of the replacements have the power that the originals do. I was wondering if I just replaced all 4 motors at once so at least the power output is equal, can I get away with turning "CW" motors into "CCW" by reversing the motor wires? These arent brushless or anything fancy, just garbage bog standard coreless mini motors. I know it can work technically, but will it rotate with the same power in reverse? My guess is no, and they sell CW/CCW motors for a reason, but the skeptic inside me wonders... I was wondering if anybody had any insight into the bolded part. I'm talking about these little guys: 
bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 02:14
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Well, you'd also need to swap the blades to CCW ones. They uh, don't work so well spinning backwards. One of the motors on my Proto X has died on me already. I ordered something like this, and just swapped out the bad one. http://www.amazon.com/Estes-4617-Proto-Syncro-Motor/dp/B00J6EFHQ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420772459&sr=8-1&keywords=este+proto+x+motor
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Jan 9, 2015 04:01
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:drat, I know the wide angle exaggerates it but that was hilariously close DC motors have something called timing. That timing makes them spin much better in one direction than another. It matters. With revsersed timing you might see only half the power, and the brushes will wear much faster.
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Jan 9, 2015 04:06
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Nerobro posted:DC motors have something called timing. That timing makes them spin much better in one direction than another. It matters. With revsersed timing you might see only half the power, and the brushes will wear much faster. I was wondering why it was an issue exactly. That explains it and makes sense.
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Jan 9, 2015 04:56
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How do you guys find good sites to fly multirotor craft? I've flown a few and have now gone with a Phantom, but it's not exactly low-profile compared to smaller quads and draws a lot of attention. RC guys, in my experience, don't want you flying in or around their fields. All parks in my area (Denver, Colorado) have banned any RC flight. I guess I'll just try to find somewhere on BLM/National Forest (non-wilderness) land and hope that any ranger who sees me knows that it's allowed?
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Jan 10, 2015 17:56
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Ordering the right parts is by far the hardest part about building a quadcopter it seems. Here's some problems I've run into so far, in case it helps someone: - My battery doesn't seem to have the normal battery connector. I referenced several build guides online and all said to just buy a 3S battery in the 3000mAh range. They didn't say I had to be careful to check the connector. - None of the build guides say you need to buy a battery connector to connect to the power distribution board (though I guess if I thought hard enough about it, I could have figured that out). I guess the good news is that I can get one that matches my weirdo battery. - Seems like all build guides should include "a shitload of bullet connectors". - My motors don't come with mounting screws. WHY? Charge me an extra $3 per and give me the loving screws. - My frame doesn't seem to have a lot of room in it. I don't know where I'm going to put everything, and I'm not sure where to mount the gimbal (Tarot t-2d). Probably should have just overpaid for the flame wheel. It's weird that the frame has all 5 star reviews. Are Hobby King reviews worth anything? - The GPS stalk thing for the Naza doesn't stay together. The little rod seems like it's going to need to be glued in. It's weird that none of the build videos even address that. This is all more frustrating when I have a weekend free to build it, but can't because everyone who does build guides online has already built a bunch and already has tiny screws and bullet connectors out the wazoo, and those aren't things that stores sell (I tried Home Depot and Radio Shack). I guess the good news is that it looks like I can get them on Amazon Prime and don't have to wait another week. I've also notice that everything is so much smaller than I imagined. I've never seen a quad in person besides my little Hubsan, but for some reason everything on youtube seems bigger - the motors, frame, battery, etc. v  v
Erwin fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 19:29
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Radbot posted:How do you guys find good sites to fly multirotor craft? I've flown a few and have now gone with a Phantom, but it's not exactly low-profile compared to smaller quads and draws a lot of attention. RC guys, in my experience, don't want you flying in or around their fields. All parks in my area (Denver, Colorado) have banned any RC flight. I guess I'll just try to find somewhere on BLM/National Forest (non-wilderness) land and hope that any ranger who sees me knows that it's allowed? National parks are illegal for multirotor flying as well, so I'd be careful with that (I'm actually not sure of the national park / forest relationship - we have a national forest surrounded by a national park, and I have no idea if that means I can just fly in that part but not the other). If you got an AMA membership, and you want to toot around in a phantom for a while at an ama airfield, wouldn't that work? moron izzard fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 19:57
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Erwin posted:Ordering the right parts is by far the hardest part about building a quadcopter it seems. Here's some problems I've run into so far, in case it helps someone: You're way in over your head. I hate to say it, but you dove headlong into a complex hobby without any preparation. I'm sorry. Everything you're pointing out is "well I bought from 15 suppliers and I need to make it work" issues. .. I suppose I'm saying this is normal, and you're complaining about nothing. But you're a noob, nobody told you what you were in for. You need to keep in mind that you're buying kits, and kit parts. Sadly, since you're already "there" there's nothing we can do to soften the blow. Okey, enough of that. To build hobby grade things, you need hobby tools. That includes a small selection of wire (14, 16, 20ga..) A set of your favorite connectors. (Ideally several sets.. I have 20 sets T-connectors sitting in my battery box) Batteries generally come with "A" connector, but rarely "your" connector. You're also expected to have glue, several kinds; Cynoacralyate, Epoxy, and HotGlue, at minimum. You're also expected to have abrasives, sand paper, files, etc. And a few cutting tools, at least a wire cutter, scissors, and x-acto knife. You're also expected to have a drill, and drill bits. The motors don't come with screws, because they don't know what you're bolting it to. Are you bolting to a bit of fiberglass? An aluminum arm? a big plastic motor mount? Plywood? All of those will need different screw lengths. Bullet connectors are trash. You're better off hard soldering everything you can. At least if you plan on carrying anything expensive airborne. I suspect your battery has a trash connector on it, pick something useful. Either "common" or "good." XT60, Deans, Anderson, something good (read: low resistance, and easy to solder or crimp), and something that can't be plugged in backwards. The reviews you're reading are from hobby people. They know they're buying a kit. They know their setup is going to be theirs, and unique to them. Who cares if they need to drill a hole, or deburr a hole, it's going to be their setup, and they're going to be fine with it. It's a very different world from that of RTFs and factory built toys. I'm sorry your introduction has been rough.
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Jan 11, 2015 02:02
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Erwin posted:Ordering the right parts is by far the hardest part about building a quadcopter it seems. Here's some problems I've run into so far, in case it helps someone: I had these exact same problems when I started out. To fix your problems: - Get an HXT to XT60 adaptor. It's the easiest way to make your battery compatible with your charger and everything else - Get a pack of XT60 connectors already connected to wires. If you don't want to solder, get this and just connect it up to bullet connectors on your ESCs. - Get M3 bolts for your Motors. Your local hardware store should have them. 3mm bolt diameter. As for the "Charge me an extra $3 per and give me the loving screws.": get used to dealing with low-cost Chinese parts if you are getting into RC. - The frame honestly sucks and is too flexy. This frame is awesome and well documented (comes with a manual), comes with motor screws, and there's a version available with PDB here - Yeah, you need to glue the thing together first, then stick it on in the right orientation. You can get a collapsible mount here Also, i'm going to white knight bullet connectors. I strongly prefer to have bullet connectors rip out than to have traces ripped off the board. timecop of Naze32 fame strongly recommends them over soldering. They do add weight, but they are simple and reliable. on the left fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jan 11, 2015 |
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Jan 11, 2015 04:15
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