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Crustashio posted:What were you using for tools? I did a rear parking brake on my old e46 with visegrips once. Nearly broke my own nose. I was using pliers and a screwdriver. I picked up one of those brake tools linked above while I was at harbor freight today, what is the thing with the red handle for? I also got a mityvac test and bleed kit while I was there because I had opened the bleed screw on the drum brakes to compress the wheel cylinder and that probably got air into it.
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Jan 9, 2015 01:32
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SperginMcBadposter posted:I picked up one of those brake tools linked above while I was at harbor freight today, what is the thing with the red handle for?
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Jan 9, 2015 01:43
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I don't think that piece would have worked on the springs on mine then, the openings the springs go into are tiny. Oh yeah gently caress those hold down spring clips too. I had forgotten about how annoying they were while I was doing the return springs between the pads. Bonus pic of second new motor mount that I forgot I had taken: 
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Jan 9, 2015 02:15
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Crustashio posted:What were you using for tools? I did a rear parking brake on my old e46 with visegrips once. Nearly broke my own nose. I bought a pair of super-long needle-nose pliers with a bend in that that I was recommended for doing drum brake springs. They're perfect for the job, you have a ton of leverage to get the spring in place and are long enough to fulcrum off a bunch of different places for different models. Made a prick of a job into a few second affair.
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Jan 9, 2015 03:17
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Replaced the front brakes and rotors on my Civic SI. Holy gently caress they were overdue. Guess I need to turn down the music.  In a rare moment of smartness I realized I could use a 6" locking clamp to push the pistons back in quite easily, and shortly I'm going to set up a document on my google drive so I can keep track of when I do maintenance on the truck and civic.
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Jan 9, 2015 21:12
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Bled the brakes and got all the old fluid out of the system. A dead ant came out of the front right caliper when I bled it and just lazily floated through the tubing. Parts Kit posted:In a rare moment of smartness I realized I could use a 6" locking clamp to push the pistons back in quite easily, and shortly I'm going to set up a document on my google drive so I can keep track of when I do maintenance on the truck and civic. I did something pretty similar to that, but with a c-clamp that screws closed and a block of wood on the front of the caliper's piston so I wouldn't scratch or bend it.
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Jan 10, 2015 02:08
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I bought a giant C-clamp at Wal-mart for 99 cents and used that to compress the cylinder.
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Jan 10, 2015 05:39
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The nice thing about the 6" locking clamp is the little foot is small enough that it was able to go into the piston and bottom out on the inside so I didn't have to push on the machined face of it. So no worries about scratching. A normal c-clamp was my first idea but I couldn't find the huge one. Really I'm glad I didn't though because the locking clamp is easier as you can adjust it to make sure you get enough leverage but then it's just squeezing and releasing instead of 'ok, back this all the way out so it slips on, now screw it all the way back in, ok now time to turn it a dozen times, and time to remove it...gently caress this is taking forever.'
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Jan 10, 2015 18:40
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Does using one of the old brake pads to compress the piston, with the help of the c-clamp not work? Does this damage something? I mean you sit the old pad against the piston and put the clamp on it and crank down. In this way the old pad spreads the force out.
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Jan 10, 2015 20:47
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Vanagoon posted:Does using one of the old brake pads to compress the piston, with the help of the c-clamp not work? Does this damage something? That is how I did it.
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Jan 10, 2015 21:06
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Had a leaky exhaust cam seal on the GSR so I replaced it with a Blox aluminum unit. While I was in there I decided that it was worth my time to replace the valve cover gasket set as well. An hour well spent.
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Jan 11, 2015 02:25
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Vanagoon posted:Does using one of the old brake pads to compress the piston, with the help of the c-clamp not work? Does this damage something? This works great on every front I've ever seen. Some rears (mostly with integrated parking brakes, it seems) don't like it and you need to turn them while you retract them with a special tool.
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Jan 11, 2015 04:05
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 Put some lowering springs on the beater to raise it up off the bump stops.
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Jan 11, 2015 04:19
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Swapped out the 3rd out of the 4 motor mounts. This one attaches to the top of the transaxle. Old mount:    It's hard to see it, but the last motor mount is down there attached to the lower side of the transaxle right next to the firewall. I expect that one to be a complete loving pain to swap out when I get to it. New mount:   Battery tray, fuse box, and intake tubing put back in place above the mount:  Closer shot of the old mount: 
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Jan 11, 2015 05:17
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Bank 1 upstream o2 sensor and EGR valve done on my Ram, gave it a hearty middle finger when I finished it off. gently caress you, truck, I win.
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Jan 11, 2015 19:43
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if one O2 sensor is gone, the other usually isn't too far behind. They would have been a 10 minute job on my f-150, but plug on the passenger side sensor inexplicably fucks off back into a razor thin gap between the engine and firewall, and there isn't enough give in the wire to properly decouple the plug. loving fucks.
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Jan 11, 2015 20:45
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Yeah, I'm gonna do the other one ASAP, I just had limited funds on hand without dipping into my savings. The CEL kicked on right when my inspection ran out, and I've been on vacation the last week. I put the pro in procrastination.
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Jan 11, 2015 21:49
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Vanagoon posted:Does using one of the old brake pads to compress the piston, with the help of the c-clamp not work? Does this damage something? I use an old pad and this tool: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES8211/?gclid=CN2-6e2tjcMCFW4F7Aodf1wAxw As noted, it will only work on calipers that don't contain a spiral threaded pbrake mechanism. Previously I would put the old pads in the caliper, brace the non piston end on my knee, and use my two largest box wrenches as prybars to pry the piston back into the caliper. Then that tool (or a cheap knockoff of it) was on sale at the parts store so I added it to the collection.
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Jan 12, 2015 03:03
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I changed the valve cover gasket and spark plugs in the EF civic. I'm pretty sure the spark plugs had 233k miles on them as they didn't really have an electrode on them anymore. One of the previous owners decided to use RTV on the valve cover gasket when it started leaking, instead of buying a new one for less than $20. No more oil smoke when I start it up, maybe the valve seals aren't bad after all and it was the valve cover gasket.
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Jan 12, 2015 03:33
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I installed a hood latch release cable on a 97 Civic. It was a pain in the rear end.
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Jan 12, 2015 06:26
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 New tyres to match my new rotors. Thing stops so hard it makes your face hurt.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:46
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Started pulling the engine on my 83 C10. Must say 6.2L Detroit Diesel's are a pain to get the engine out. Going to be placing a Vin J 6.2L Detroit out of a Military Hummer back into it. May have to do some modifications to the oil pan and pickup tube to make it fit between the cross members. Thinking of putting a Gale Banks Sidewinder turbo setup on it. Any thoughts on it?
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Jan 13, 2015 02:08
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I don't know anything about those motors, but can't you pull the oil pan, pickup, windage tray, etc off your old motor and slap them directly on the new one? Also, aren't HMMWVs glacially slow?
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Jan 13, 2015 03:48
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I lifted the back, doing the front tomorrow
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Jan 13, 2015 03:52
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Raluek posted:I don't know anything about those motors, but can't you pull the oil pan, pickup, windage tray, etc off your old motor and slap them directly on the new one? Im reasonably sure that a HMMWV weighs about a glacier more than a C10 and that has something to do with its speed.
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Jan 13, 2015 12:52
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Late post from the weekend projects. For the miata: Wix air filter, Rotella T6 and Wix filter on the motor, Motul Gear 300 in the trans, and Amsoil Severe Gear in the diff. For the M3: Replaced the fuel pump and installed halos.  (sorry for lovely HDR, fuckers are bright and I was too lazy to properly edit a picture of a stupid car) And then cleaned the garage.    Still have to organize tools better and clean the counter space, but the floor space is mostly in order.
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Jan 13, 2015 14:36
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Sadi posted:
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Jan 13, 2015 15:48
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Its my GFs stang. _MG_2374  _MG_2994 _MG_3004Its a base 6 with 6 speed. Will be getting lowering springs, GT track pack shocks, and adjustable panhard bar soon.
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Jan 13, 2015 17:23
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Ok...now tell us more about your girlfriend.  Just kidding, thats a nice car!
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Jan 13, 2015 17:25
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Geirskogul posted:They're called the blazecut, and around $200. Worth it. I think I need one of these for my GMC. Any gotchas about routing it? Going to take a few measurements and decide on which size I want.
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Jan 13, 2015 17:45
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Yesterday I helped a friend sort out some of his e36's mechanical issues and sunroof gremlins while he did some detailing. There was still some sunlight left when he finished, so...   My e30 got a paint detail! Today he's finishing up the other side and detailing the interior while I find broken things to fix on his e36 and learn about detailing. I already got antsy and cleared the plumbing on the e30 and e36 for winter.. The e30's passenger floor just started getting damp a week ago, turns out my elephant trunk was packed tight with debris. Nobody ever thinks about that! Note to self: clean that thing out every summer when it's warm out, it's a pain to get back on in the winter. I agreed to help him fix up and sort out his e36 since he decided to keep it as a daily. He's given it a $1-3k ish budget and told me that all of his wheels are bent and need replacing. Found some nice tasteful wheels for $370 in the same city I'm going to check out, that fit the new, good tires he has. Shame about him having good staggered tires though, I would have liked to have held off for a good square set of BBS style 5's for not much more. He also has lovely smoked ebay taillights on it from the PO that need replacing. Found a passenger side one in his shed but the driver side one he had was a replica and cracked, so I'll need to source one of those. He has glass euro headlights, and the smoked craplights on the back cheapen the look SO much. Mechanically, haven't really looked at it long enough to know what needs doing. HEY VAPER fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 18:28
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Ferremit posted:Im reasonably sure that a HMMWV weighs about a glacier more than a C10 and that has something to do with its speed. Yea it doesn't move fast. The key is I can drag almost anything with it. Just couldn't take the diesel out for a 350. It has been a pain to find parts for epically wiring harness.
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Jan 14, 2015 02:39
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Got my new idle air control valve in for the Ranger today. Seems to have fixed the whining and the rough idle on startup.
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Jan 15, 2015 03:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think I need one of these for my GMC. Any gotchas about routing it? Going to take a few measurements and decide on which size I want. Of course, they activate by heat, so they have to go above where you think a fire will happen, or where heat will collect. They also burst at around 270 (IIRC) so keep them away from immediate hot zones like exhaust headers. Try to imagine where a fire will start and where the flames will collect, and make sure it runs around there. Above fuel rails, above the exhaust header to block connection (usually dips a bit, think about fuel puddles and ignition points), or just above the wiring harness/fuel rail/vacuum hose rat's nest that most cars have. I will be putting one right above my carburetor and routing it above the fuel line connections  I 3D printed some visor clips for the Beetle. The old ones are impossible to find, and I could make these in glow-in-the-dark plastic (the only "white" filament I have on hand). Seriously looks so much better than the homemade wire "clips" the PO left me.   (this one has some of the raft I later removed still stuck to it) Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jan 15, 2015 |
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Jan 15, 2015 03:17
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doogle posted:
That happened when I replaced the stock springs in my '90 RX-7 with Racing Beat sport springs, The silly thing ended up slightly higher that it started, the stockers were so worn out.
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Jan 16, 2015 19:48
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Thought I was going to change out the shift linkage bushings, but the stuff I got was for the shift stabilizer bar instead. These obviously aren't the same size bushing. Only one of the two bushing pieces were actually on the linkage, and I'm assuming the missing one had already disintegrated.  I went ahead and swapped out the old shift stabilizer bushing since I had the part.  Old bushing.  Stabilizer bar on the right, shift linkage on the left. At the left edge of the pic is that last motor mount I need to replace. There's no room between it and the shift linkage to get a socket in there and there's a loving crossmember in the way of the bolts on the bottom of it. Will be replacing those linkage bushings if I find somewhere that has them. Rockauto and amazon don't.
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Jan 17, 2015 01:30
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Popped a new fuel filter and filter-to-carb rubber fuel hose on the imp due to the rubber being rotten and the filter being full of rust. Some idiot had the great idea to make it so that you can use every last drop in the fuel tank by putting the draw pipe at the lowest point, somehow forgetting that rust & dirt exist. Will be driving it by this time next week.
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Jan 17, 2015 02:38
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Will be replacing those linkage bushings if I find somewhere that has them. Rockauto and amazon don't. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=ATM0771303_0349821206
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Jan 17, 2015 19:05
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$1.50 huh. I ordered some on ebay for 30bux yesterday. Maybe I can cancel it since it hasn't shipped yet.
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Jan 17, 2015 21:27
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Bled 3ml of air out of a brake system that probably holds <10ml total. No wonder my MTB brakes didn't work. I'd do some actual car work but the car doesn't ft in my living room. 
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Jan 17, 2015 22:33
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