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Yesterday I bought an awesome 9-3 sportcombi aero. I really like this car and am starting to understand the 1000 buttons in the interior. It had 100k miles but was really clean and had it inspected by a Saab specialist that only found two problems. First was it needed intimidate change of the ATF and second was the turbo return pipe leaked oil (not major). But low and behold on a short drive to a friends last night the check engine light came on. It was 10 degrees out and it is pretty low on gas right now. Could the ATF or the temp/low gas figure into the light? it was running fine.
Unknownmass fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Dec 28, 2014 |
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Dec 28, 2014 18:15
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Unknownmass posted:Yesterday I bought an awesome 9-3 sportcombi aero. I really like this car and am starting to understand the 1000 buttons in interior. It had 100k miles but was really clean and had it inspected by a Saab specialist that only found two problems. First was it needed intimidate change of the ATF and second was the turbo return pipe leaked oil (not major). But low and behold on a short drive to a friends last night the check engine light came on. It was 10 degrees out and it is pretty low on gas right now. Could the ATF or the temp/low gas figure into the light? it was running fine. If it is transmission related, you'd be in limp home (locked in third gear) mode. If your car is still shifting OK, then this isn't the cause. Since you just bought it, I'd take it back to the shop that gave it the clean bill of health and have them see what the issue is- perhaps they oopsed- or didn't do a thorough job. Low gas will not cause a CEL. E: If it is the 2.8L V6, and hasn't had the ignition coils changed, I'd take a stab in the dark at that- but without any codes, we've got nothing. Its always a good idea to have a cheap code reader if you don't own a Tech 2. -- Decided to rebuild the spare blower motor for now and will refurb/rehab the existing one later. Save time and make sure I have a good working blower for the rest of winter. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Dec 28, 2014 |
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Dec 28, 2014 18:20
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I've been checking this thread once and a while and noticed the last page talking about a tech 2 which piqued my interest. Can they reset airbag codes generally speaking? My partner has a commodore and it seems like every year some BS happens with an airbag fault (high resistance maybe a plug got loose) The way GM Holden in australia have it configured is you can not reset an airbag fault with a regular ODB2 tool/reader, it needs a holden tech2 or equivalent, not a ebay cheapy, so I haven't even bothered getting an OBD2 scan/tool until I can find one that can reset that code. Is the case similar over there, that airbag codes are harder to reset, can't do it with a cheapy (inc ebay tech2s), but can do it with some combination of them and something else? What I mean has someone had a similar airbag problem in saabs and defeated it somehow? Otherwise it's $70 each time the stupid airbag light goes on, because cheap tools can not reset it and I need to go to a dealer or auto leccy that has a $1-2k tool. From what I read airbag faults are stored deep within the BCM and locked away from regular tools/scanners. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Dec 28, 2014 |
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Dec 28, 2014 21:42
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Sorry I should have noted that it is a v6. The car was not in limp home mode I went to an auto parts store and used their reader. I got a p2187 - System Too Lean at Idle code. Quick google searches says that it can be caused by many things, but is not an immediate concern so I will have a shop look at it as they replace the ATF. Thanks for the help.
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Dec 28, 2014 22:44
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Unknownmass posted:Sorry I should have noted that it is a v6. The car was not in limp home mode I went to an auto parts store and used their reader. I got a p2187 - System Too Lean at Idle code. Quick google searches says that it can be caused by many things, but is not an immediate concern so I will have a shop look at it as they replace the ATF. Thanks for the help. Sounds like the amm is messed. This is a $200 part new. Fo3 posted:I've been checking this thread once and a while and noticed the last page talking about a tech 2 which piqued my interest. The Tech 2 is what gm mechanics use (used until 2009). It won't do it by itself. You will need a TIS (or compatible) solution in order to see and reset this. Also gently caress the blower motor in OG95. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Dec 29, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2014 05:30
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I'm pretty sure there's a picture of me flipping off my old blower motor somewhere in this thread.
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Dec 29, 2014 06:18
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I got even with mine. Did it at folks' house. My $15 core didn't even need brushes, but I did them anyway. See ya in 10 years, Sport!
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Dec 29, 2014 07:01
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West SAAB Story posted:Sounds like the amm is messed. This is a $200 part new. But last time the airbag light went off I went to see some guy who advertised resets for $70 on gumtree (our version of craigslist). The guy hooked up the holden tech2 (nothing else), even plugged just that into the cig lighter for power, and reset the airbag fault using the tech2 alone in 2 min. Apparently nothing else can do it alone but the holden tech2, but I'd be interested in any other options even if it required multiple bits of gear. But so far the only answer I've heard is "no, can't be done, see your holden dealer or auto electrician if you get an airbag fault. A regular OBD2 tool just can't reset it no matter what but a holden tech2 can do it by itself" Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Dec 29, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2014 17:20
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Fo3 posted:But so far the only answer I've heard is "no, can't be done, see your holden dealer or auto electrician if you get an airbag fault. A regular OBD2 tool just can't reset it no matter what but a holden tech2 can do it by itself" The above statement is likely true, since basic ODBII readers are only designed to read out what the error code is- with some extra features thrown in (most can tell you which systems are not "ready" (smogworthy), and 2003+ can usually tell you your VIN, and a handful of other goodies. Although accessible via the same ODB port, it is not going to be setup the same way. I'm not familiar with a Holden specific PCMCIA card. Your abilities are limited to the programming available on that. Most GM products require you to obtain a higher service level to program things with the Tech 2 unit. This is why I suggested that the Tech 2 by itself isn't usually adequate. If he didn't need to run off and connect the Tech 2 to a computer- maybe you don't have this nuance to deal with. A Tech 2 is a Tech 2, no matter if it is cheap or cloned. There may be some compatibility and quality issues, but the device itself should not be any different. I'd contact him (if you still have his information) and see what revision software he was using on this Tech 2 and see if you can buy a cord. If you want a cheapo Chinese Tech 2, I can tell you where mine came from- but I can't really assist with anything else. Holden isn't gone (yet), so it is a very grey area.
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Dec 29, 2014 19:18
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Anyone here done a CV axle replacement? It sounds somewhat straight forward from what I've read. My driver's side boot is cracked and I think I just might replace the entire thing since an entire new axle isn't that expensive Now the real question is, do I go ahead and do some bushings, ball joints, control arms, and possibly struts/shocks while I have it apart. JayKay fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 10:19
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What car? On the NG900/OG9-3 and OG9-5 it's easiest to simply tap out the ball joint under the strut. By doing this you don't need to realign the front. This is probably true for most if not all cars with MacPherson strut front suspension.
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Dec 30, 2014 12:49
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OG 9-5 Aero. And I'm thinking I might do CV + Hub/bearing in one foul swoop.
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Dec 30, 2014 15:53
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I'll post offline WIS pics when I get home this afternoon. Got some drivin' in the snow to do today. Still on the fence about taking OG9-5 or 'sploder. Ford hasn't been driven for a couple days.. and I could give a gently caress about it (other than getting my money back out of it). Will probably take that.
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Dec 30, 2014 18:01
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Tonight I'm planning on doing my valve cover gasket, new head bolts, spark plugs, and hopefully replacing the trunk lock actuator. Also want to get the car up on stands and inspect the suspension. I know for a fact that the drivers side cv outer boot is torn and needs replacement. With the spark plugs, is dielectric grease required on the DIC tips or just recommended? I saw that it's used in the SaabWorld guide. Sometime this month I'm going to give dropping the sump another shot. Hoping that letting it sit overnight with a crap load of pb blaster on the turbo studs will let me get that final bottom stud out without snapping it. Else I'm probably going to have do some real wizardy to get the exhaust to clear the turbo. And if that comes back clean, I think it'll be time to do a full suspension overhaul. JayKay fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 22:35
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Hey JayKay- I just got home. Gimme a sec and I'll hook you up. E: If your wife wants my other two Brownie cameras, I'd be happy to send you other goodies, too. 
West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 06:24
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I SWEAR TO GOD IF YOU ALL DON'T START TAKING CARE OF YOUR CARS, I'M GONNA REPLACE THEM WITH A 3.0t. 
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Dec 31, 2014 09:44
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What did I get my self into buying a Saab? It has been very cold here, below 0 for several days now. While driving to the shop to get the ATF changed the car went crazy with about every light and error going off. Brake problems, ABS failed, traction control failed, stability failed, and it kept telling me to pull over and call Saab. The brakes worked fine so I stopped at the next light restarted the car and they all went away and the car ran fine to the shop. This has to be a fluke right? edit: This is my first car made in the last quarter century so all the electronics and sensors and computers are throwing me off. My last car worked or didn't work so sorry for the stupid questions. Unknownmass fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 19:59
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Its the massive cold spell we are experiencing are going to cause many cars to freak out with the most random poo poo. Also any weak batteries are going to be exploited as well. Check out the BMW thread for some crazy poo poo.
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Dec 31, 2014 20:08
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Unknownmass posted:What did I get my self into buying a Saab? It has been very cold here, below 0 for several days now. While driving to the shop to get the ATF changed the car went crazy with about every light and error going off. Brake problems, ABS failed, traction control failed, stability failed, and it kept telling me to pull over and call Saab. The brakes worked fine so I stopped at the next light restarted the car and they all went away and the car ran fine to the shop. This has to be a fluke right? Most likely: either your battery is dying, or your ABS controller is dying. Both are relatively painless to remove and repair. That said, if you are too freaked out by this, I'd happily trade you a slow ford SUV for your car. (Per request by OzzyMeanderer)  Also, what year is your car? How many miles? I've done precisely one ATF exchange on a tranny that had over 150k on it (4 speed slush), and it helped- it was starting to slap into 3rd only with some assistance by feathering the gas. The rest I have left the hell alone. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 20:11
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Thanks for the reply's I think I have a bit of post buy jitters and am a bit nervous about it. The car is a 2006 9-3 2.8T Aero sportcombi with 110k miles. the pre-purchase inspection said that the ATF was the only major issue so I'm just getting it done at a shop as I still know very little about Saabs. My old car was an 80's Porsche and I was able to do most repairs and look forward to trying to figure out this car. I will try and be regular here to ask for your help and advice.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:08
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Unknownmass posted:My old car was an 80's Porsche and I was able to do most repairs and look forward to trying to figure out this car. I will try and be regular here to ask for your help and advice. This will be easier. Computers can tell you what is hosed. That tranny is confusing me, though. Why are you doing an ATF replacement? Did the car tell you that - or did the dealer? If it is the dealer, the tranny is likely hosed to hell (probably about $50 worth of solenoids, and 4 days of labor). If the car told you that, it'll be a first for me. Make sure they use the proper mineral spirits for it, and not some dumb aftermarket bullshit, or you will make it worse (usually by cleaning out the existing gunk). The 2.8 likes to eat the lovely ignition coils. If it starts throwing codes (get yourself a cheap OBD reader) for (pre)ignition, et al, you probably have a coil going bad. You can buy the Caddy ones cheaper than the SAAB branded ones- look for '06 Cadillac CTS / SRX 3.6L coils. They are a oval office to get all replaced, but still more fun than anything else on that goddamn engine. E: Jesus gently caress when did I become the SAAB Whisperer? 
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Dec 31, 2014 21:17
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A Saab repair place near by checked the transmission fluid during the inspection and said it really needed to be replaced, as it looked like it had not been before so that what it is having done right now. they mentioned that 2 back coils looked like they could be replaced but was not needed until a few more go bad. I think this will be my first project on the car and will start researching it.
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Dec 31, 2014 22:04
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If it starts stumbling or throwing codes, get new coils. I am still on the fence about the ATF since you didn't really answer my questions. Did they say WHY they suggested it?
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Dec 31, 2014 22:06
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When they checked the fluid from the trany it was brown/black, and was pretty adamant about having to change it immediately. Is replacing the fluid bad? I would think it would just be unnecessary but not hurt and cost a little bit.
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Dec 31, 2014 22:20
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Well, bad/burnt fluid could be a sign of transmission trouble. How did the transmission feel while driving it?
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Dec 31, 2014 22:53
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Well, bad/burnt fluid could be a sign of transmission trouble. How did the transmission feel while driving it? Also, how did it smell? I had clean red with the smell of death in the 4 speed- but it ws just slipping in 3rd. I decided "gently caress it I'll need to rebuild it if this doesn't work'. A not-pump-assisted flush did perfectly well.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:13
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^^^^^ that too. If its old, it will just smell old. ATF has TONS of detergents in it, so if its dirty in color, its doing its job, but don't let it go. As long as the transmission isn't clunking around or shifting slow/slipping a drop the pan and change would prolong the life. I am not as familiar with the auto boxes in SAABs though, but I don't ever see many issues with them.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:22
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Okay I keep seeing fairly nice looking Saab 9-3 convertibles in manual in my area but this one is probably the nicest I've seen yet. Why the hell are these things so cheap? I've seen piece of poo poo Del Sols from the early 90s sell for more. Is it because Saab doesn't exist? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/4822087239.html    I know nothing about these cars, but should I buy one?
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Jan 1, 2015 00:23
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Shogunner posted:I know nothing about these cars, but should I buy one? Not until you check its' history. My guess is that the top is non-functional. If you need to fix that, it is probably $2500 to repair, which, with the cars' expense- is too much. SID is good, ACC is good, mileage is good. Body panels match (and align). It has likely been taken care of. Get it checked for sludging, but otherwise- that is a drat fine car. It may be up for timing, or something else rather strange going wrong with it. Bring an ODBII reader and test everything. Make sure the heater gets warm (a lot of CA lives with bypassed heater cores, because it doesn't get too cold), make sure the top goes all the way up (and all the way down), and then offer $1750. I'll give you $2250 for it if it passes. 
West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Jan 1, 2015 |
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Jan 1, 2015 00:28
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West SAAB Story posted:Not until you check its' history. My guess is that the top is non-functional. If you need to fix that, it is probably $2500 to repair, which, with the cars' expense- is too much. Awesome! Thanks for your help. According to him the top goes up and down but the passenger rear window sticks up. Bad regulator? I'll inspect out everything else in person assuming the dude checking it out tomorrow doesn't buy it.
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Jan 1, 2015 00:56
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Shogunner posted:Awesome! Thanks for your help. According to him the top goes up and down but the passenger rear window sticks up. Bad regulator? Most likely a bad regulator, but it could also be a bad roller. I'd try to have it sent up or down and check for noise. Those won't be fun to get to in a 'vert.
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Jan 1, 2015 00:58
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West SAAB Story posted:
I referred to you as this in conversation yesterday, I think it happened organically. They're already quirky Swedish cars, and are now quirky Swedish cars whose manufacturer has evaporated, so the position of "SAAB Whisperer" is one that is in need of filling in any suitably large automotive community. I am doubtless grateful for your advice and will report back on my adventures in window switch replacement.
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Jan 1, 2015 05:27
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Unknownmass posted:What did I get my self into buying a Saab? It has been very cold here, below 0 for several days now. While driving to the shop to get the ATF changed the car went crazy with about every light and error going off. Brake problems, ABS failed, traction control failed, stability failed, and it kept telling me to pull over and call Saab. The brakes worked fine so I stopped at the next light restarted the car and they all went away and the car ran fine to the shop. This has to be a fluke right? Brakes are purely mechanical/hydraulic (and somewhat pneumatic given the brake booster). The ABS central can affect the brakes but the hydraulic loops are not dependant on the ABS central. TCS and ESP work similarly as ABS, only with more sensor input and more advanced control of the four individual brake lines.
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Jan 1, 2015 12:24
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Iskariot posted:Something that makes the voltage drop. Usually the battery but can also be the alternator, a shortage or faulty ground points. Just to follow-up again: when you get the Christmas tree lights, it's usually the ABS controller.
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Jan 10, 2015 09:20
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I have a 1980 saab 99T which I rebuilt 10 years ago. It had an entirely rebuilt engine and gearbox as both were buggered. Its not been driven for the past 7-8 years because I bought a house and ran out of money and because it was always a fucker to start and I kept getting stranded. I now have it in the garage and am trying to get it going again. I have found that the only way I can get it running is by spraying lots of easy-start into it and cranking it lots or by putting a manual switch on the cold start injector and then leaving that turned on for 2-3 minutes until it seems to warm up enough to tick over on its own without the extra fuel. With the cold start injector running it starts instantly on the key - but is quite lumpy. Turning the injector off too early makes it stumble and stall - even if you rev it. After 2-3 mins you can hear it settle out and start running properly. Once it is warm it starts perfectly. Any ideas? It always used to be bad but used to run okay once you got it initially started. Its recently had a fuel pump (a second hand one) and I've dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out (had loads of horrible varnishy fuel in there) and have run fuel through to all the injectors which now spray nicely if you hold them in a jar. 5 years ago I replaced the K-jet Warm up regulator (which I always thought was causing this) with one from a c900T I had that rotted away (but used to start perfectly). Still had to fight to start it (which I did every few months)
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Jan 11, 2015 19:32
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I'm having an intermittent ignition problem. Place key in ignition. Car lights up. All lights on. Car will not crank. No sound. After a few minutes of banging my head against steering wheel, car cranks like normal. Had ignition replaced. Problem still exists. 2005 SAAB 93 Linear
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Jan 12, 2015 17:12
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Was the ignition cylinder only replaced? There are multiple parts. Also try shifting in and our of gear, your CPS/NPS may be on the way out.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:50
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West SAAB Story posted:Was the ignition cylinder only replaced? There are multiple parts. Also try shifting in and our of gear, your CPS/NPS may be on the way out. Thanks! I will pass this on to my mechanic. Hopefully he can sort this out before I burn this car with fire.
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Jan 12, 2015 21:07
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Tomarse posted:I have a 1980 saab 99T which I rebuilt 10 years ago. It had an entirely rebuilt engine and gearbox as both were buggered. 
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Jan 13, 2015 05:54
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I've got an OG 95 wagon 2.3t manual with about 110K on it. I got it very, very cheap, mainly because the engine rattles. Friendly MOT guy who seemed to know his SAABs said it was probably something about the lifters and not the cam chain like I suggested, but I really don't know. I've done the crank house ventilation thing and changed oil frequently for the year I've had it like the MOT guy said to do, but the rattle is not getting better, possibly because I have neglected to drive "like an Italian" like he also said to do. Lately it's been cold and i've heard a new bad squealing noise once or twice on cold starts, suspecting a bad bearing somewhere on the belt. Today leaving work I heard what sounded like a leaky exhausty noise from the cold engine. Minutes later I lost the temp gauge and got an immediate check engine light on the highway. After checking that the belt was still there and that the blower blew hot (in my mind this meant that the water pump was still working) I drove home and parked, and that's where she sits. I'll scan tomorrow night if I can find the scanner, but googling suggests the temp sensor, thermostat or both. Temp gauge has seemed on the low side lately, so that might indicate thermostat? I really don't know what to do with this car. It's worth practically no money, but drives well enough. Thermostats and temp sensors seem cheap, so I guess I'll change them, but that still leaves me with a car that rattles, with a number of other minor issues that add up to a machine I just can't love on a mechanical level. Engine swap, junkyard/trade, drive into the ground more or less as is or something else? /e/n
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Jan 13, 2015 22:33
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