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Astonishing Wang posted:I've circled a few things that make your situations different: AKA: The everything.
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Jan 8, 2015 20:59
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Sperglord Firecock posted:YES! I DID! This is also one reason why you should draing and refill the cooling system every few years, so it has good stuff in there, it can degrade over time. In terms of tools, a halfway decent socket set and a cheapo multimeter will get you a hell of a long way with car repair. I'd suggest a set of good screwdrivers, a worklight, and some spanners to bolster that. And obviously a BFH. Astonishing Wang posted:I've circled a few things that make your situations different:
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Jan 8, 2015 21:06
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InitialDave posted:Freezing inside the engine block (the coolant runs all through the block, it's full of cavities to let it circulate in there) isn't always terminal, but it can be, and if it happens badly it'll properly gently caress the thing. If you're only a few degrees below freezing, pretty much any antifreeze will work to prevent it, it doesn't need to be a specific "harsh winter" mix or whatever. Weeeell, I got two different sets of socket sets that are worth a drat. One's a MASSIVE Craftsman set complete with adjustable screwdriver and heads, and two spanners. Other's a Kobalt set that's less nice but still has some neat stuff. Another's this weird non-brand name tiny kit that I've used more to fix my computer than anything else because it came with tiny screwdrivers.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:01
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I've done a lot more with a lot less. Sounds like a good haul. poo poo, I probably pulled that engine out of the S2000 with about what you have right now, plus a jack and some stands. Point is, it's what you do with them. While it may not be ideal, you can basically do everything you need to with what you have now.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:09
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Adiabatic posted:I've done a lot more with a lot less. Sounds like a good haul. Alright, cool. So now just need money for the parts and a nice sunny day where it's not -fuckyou degrees outside. Which means it's time to play the waiting game until I get paid next friday!
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Jan 8, 2015 22:16
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I still use the first socket set I ever bought, a Pepboys branded Goodyear kit. It even still has some of the original parts (case and SAE sockets mostly). Take good care of it and it will take care of you. Kobalt is actually pretty decent as far as low-end tools go.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:18
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Other than an alternator belt, what parts do you need? IIRC it's easiest to work on that alternator belt from the bottom than the top. Make sure you can safely get under the car and use your time underneath there to look at things and understand what they are. Other than your Mk1 eyeball, do you know how to check alignment and wear? revmoo posted:I still use the first socket set I ever bought, a Pepboys branded Goodyear kit. It even still has some of the original parts (case and SAE sockets mostly). Take good care of it and it will take care of you. Kobalt is actually pretty decent as far as low-end tools go. Also, every fastener on that car is metric. Every single one. The only time an imperial fastener would be encountered is from the PO fuckery so be extra-sure before you put an inch socket/wrench on it before you pour on the torque. That can be an express way to round a head.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:46
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_if8-CkTZE
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Jan 8, 2015 22:49
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slidebite posted:Other than an alternator belt, what parts do you need? I posted a video before about this guy who checked alignment on the pulleys by spraying water on the belt while it was squeaky and running. Noise goes away, pulley alignment issue, noise gets worse, tensioning issue. Noise doesn't change, belt's fuckered more than likely.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:53
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JN1HZ14S0GX147529 Alright so here is what we know from factory: JN1: Nissan Passenger Vehicle H: VG30 (NON-TURBO) Engine Z: Z31 CHASSIS 1: Model Change (0-9) 4: Your body type S: Standard Restraint System G: Manufactured in 1986 X: Manufactured in Japan at Hiratsuka 147529: The number of production Have you got any other compliance plates or anything under the hood, you should have the manufactures plate on the car (standing at the front looking at engine bay it's on the left on the firewall) which will 100% tell you the make a model. For example my VIN inidcates that it's a non turbo engine because it was imported by Nissan and the VIN's are different in Australia but the manufactures plate from Hiratsuka inidcates "NISSAN 300ZX VG30 (ET)" which is factory turbo. Don't know how you guys go with car imports and stuff.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:53
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Almost forgot to mention what parts I'll likely need. Uhhh, for right now? Just the alternator belt. Need to buy that, and then put it on to diagnose before I can really even bother with getting different parts.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:58
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For pulley alignment, I normally just use a straight edge like a metal ruler across them, it's generally pretty easy to see a problem.
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Jan 8, 2015 23:13
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So the next thing. Once I do find that it is misaligned, do I buy a new pulley? Or just try and wiggle the pulley so that it is indeed within alignment? Or mechanically agitate it until it's in the right spot?
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Jan 8, 2015 23:29
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If it isn't aligned, my order of probablilities would be that the bracket holding it on is badly fitted, or not right for the car, or the alternator itself is incorrect, or one of the pulleys is incorrect. Someone having put it on with a bracket bent or in the wrong place or washers placed where they shouldn't be, something like that, is the most likely reason for it. If it's only out by a few millimetres, I suspect loosening everything off, tapping it back into position, and retightening it (after checking all the fasteners are present) will sort it out. Don't forget it must be aligned right on both the top and bottom run the belt makes - if it's mounted on an angle, it could well be aligned correctly when you look at it on top, but be off on the bottom run.
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Jan 8, 2015 23:38
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Sperglord Firecock posted:So the next thing. You'll need to shim it with washers
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Jan 8, 2015 23:39
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Sperglord Firecock posted:So the next thing. That will not tell you how worn it is though. A guage is the best way but see if you can feel a ridge where the belt rides or if it riding deep in the groove.
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Jan 9, 2015 02:11
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When I had a belt out of alignment it was visibly so, and wasn't bad enough to throw the belt. So yours is probably worse. If you have the space, just look at how the belt meets the pulley, and see if it looks a bit crooked to you. As far as tension, I think the rule of thumb is one inch of vertical deflection per foot of span? Something like that? I just do them by feel usually, "yep feels tight" "whoa that's loose".
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Jan 9, 2015 02:44
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I have seen them too but yeah if it is readily visible you definitely have problems. Also take a good look at the balancer and make sure it isn't separating or loose.
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Jan 9, 2015 03:06
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Saw this RC shell on TQ Racing and thought of you http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=2133 Sadly it is all sold out at the moment, but you might be able to source one from another hobby store
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Jan 11, 2015 22:48
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You Am I posted:Saw this RC shell on TQ Racing and thought of you Ahahahaha, that's adorable. If weather gets up to above freezing next week, gonna get that belt and slap it on there, and at the same time check the pulleys. I'm not entirely sure how to check to make sure the tensioner isn't making GBS threads the bed. Although I still need to figure out how I'm gonna lift it up to get it on there, one of you commented it'd be easier to get at the belt from underneath. Probably some jack stands like someone said before? My neighbor might have a set that I could use.
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Jan 12, 2015 03:35
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Get a set of four jackstands from harbor freight for $40 and a harbor freight floor jack for $100~. The floor jacks are awesome for the money. I hear even the NASCAR guys use them.
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Jan 12, 2015 03:38
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Propaganda Bob posted:Get a set of four jackstands from harbor freight for $40 and a harbor freight floor jack for $100~. The floor jacks are awesome for the money. I hear even the NASCAR guys use them. I've got a pair of the basic blue Pittsburg "racing" jacks to get the AE86 up. They work well enough if you're patient (the pressure release will drop your car if you're too hasty) and mine have lasted a couple years already. Well worth the money.
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Jan 12, 2015 04:25
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TheLarson posted:This. ^^^^ Did you get an undersized jack? I think I remember seeing in the instructions that the pressure release is supposed as a safety if you put too much weight on it.
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Jan 12, 2015 04:27
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Sperglord Firecock posted:If weather gets up to above freezing next week Just get a big incandescent light and point it at whatever you're going to be working on and it will warm up in ten minutes or so. I changed the master cylinder on my car today in -8C weather and I was very comfortable. Also, i really hope you didn't actually buy a $3000 pc, I just built a new rig for $900 and with an i5, ssd and gtx 760 it plays everything on max settings. In the pc building world diminishing returns are very real and after the $1000-1500 mark you're just wasting money you should be spending on your bitchin' ride!
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Jan 12, 2015 05:30
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TWSS posted:Just get a big incandescent light and point it at whatever you're going to be working on and it will warm up in ten minutes or so. I changed the master cylinder on my car today in -8C weather and I was very comfortable. Also, i really hope you didn't actually buy a $3000 pc, I just built a new rig for $900 and with an i5, ssd and gtx 760 it plays everything on max settings. In the pc building world diminishing returns are very real and after the $1000-1500 mark you're just wasting money you should be spending on your bitchin' ride! Fair enough, I get that point. I was also tempted to score a beater car. Turns out there's a 1999 impreza wagon for 1800.
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Jan 12, 2015 06:33
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jeeeeeeeep brooooooooos I still haven't gotten around to buying ring terminals yet.
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Jan 12, 2015 07:00
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So these have a belt tensioner? I'd expect an 80s car to have V-belts, with the adjustment being one of the accessories swinging one way or the other. Or were they ahead of the curve with installing multi-rib serpentine belts and tensioners and such?
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Jan 12, 2015 07:09
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Raluek posted:So these have a belt tensioner? I'd expect an 80s car to have V-belts, with the adjustment being one of the accessories swinging one way or the other. Or were they ahead of the curve with installing multi-rib serpentine belts and tensioners and such? Correction: It's a V-Belt. Sorry, probably should've clarified. I don't know enough to know that a car this far back doesn't have a tensioner, although I'm sure I would've figured it out eventually.
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Jan 12, 2015 07:10
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Correction: It's a V-Belt. Sorry, probably should've clarified. I don't know enough to know that a car this far back doesn't have a tensioner, although I'm sure I would've figured it out eventually. If it's anything like my 60s motors, adequate tension is only achieved by jamming a jack handle into e.g. the power steering pump and hauling on it while someone else tightens the bolt that holds the pump at the correct tension.
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Jan 12, 2015 07:12
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These cars should have tensioners. It's probably like the 280zx one where you loosen the center bolt on the pulley and then loosen the long bolt behind it on the bracket for slack, then tighten the long bolt to achieve tension, and then tighten the center pulley bolt again to lock it in place.
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Jan 12, 2015 07:32
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mafoose posted:These cars should have tensioners. Huh, so like a turnbuckle kind of deal. I guess that's the intermediary system between jack-handle-and-wrench and a serpentine spring tensioner?
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Jan 12, 2015 08:42
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This isn't stock, but you can see the belt isn't a v belt, but the alternator does have a tensioner bolt: http://z31performance.com/showthread.php?15864-How-To-Installing-a-2005-Nissan-Titan-150-amp-Alternator The one I was thinking of is used for the A/C belt. Serpentine belts need the alignment to be right on or they will just pop off. Check to see if anything is wobbling once you get a new belt on there.
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Jan 12, 2015 10:51
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mafoose posted:This isn't stock, but you can see the belt isn't a v belt, but the alternator does have a tensioner bolt: Okay, neat. Also, because I was pestered to over and over by my family, I called up the shop that replaced the alternator belt for me last time and told me "Yeah, should be good to go", and left them an annoyed-sounding message. I seriously seriously doubt they will tell me anything other than "tough luck, if you wanna bring it back and pay more, feel free", but hey, y'never know. I don't like being pestered every 5 seconds by my family.
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Jan 12, 2015 20:58
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I once had a shop put my harmonic balancer on wrong on a previous Jeep. I only noticed after it shredded a belt. I called them up and they told me to bring it in and they'd take a look. The tech took one look and said "Yeah, we'll take care of that for ya." Half an hour later, and I was back on the road.
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Jan 12, 2015 21:28
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Same happened with my F150. Shop did the belt and it ate itself a day or two later, called them up and they said to bring it back and and had me back on the road in 30 minutes, no charge. Give them a call, if they truly hosed up or didn't check something they should fix it for you.
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Jan 12, 2015 21:33
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Sperglord Firecock posted:
Yea i don't think they can/would do that....
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Jan 13, 2015 18:55
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Also, because I was pestered to over and over by my family, I called up the shop that replaced the alternator belt for me last time and told me "Yeah, should be good to go", and left them an annoyed-sounding message. Try being polite instead of giving them the impression you're going to be a pain in the rear end.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:21
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Extra posted:Try being polite instead of giving them the impression you're going to be a pain in the rear end. I was polite about it. I'm never a jerk on the phone to people. I'm very rarely a jerk unless people really deserve it.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:35
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Also buy jackstands. Since you don't know what the gently caress for the most part I thought I would just reiterate to never get under the car without jackstands.  being crushed isnt fun.
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Jan 13, 2015 23:12
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AcidRonin posted:Also buy jackstands. Since you don't know what the gently caress for the most part I thought I would just reiterate to never get under the car without jackstands. I dunno. This thread has been rather amusing.
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Jan 15, 2015 17:57
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