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Splinter posted:Quick wood finishing question: I just applied the first coat of wipe on clear poly on top of 2 coats of stain. The cloth I used to apply the poly darkened a bit during the process, like it picked up some color from the stain. Is that bad? Does that mean the stain wasn't given sufficient time to cure, or is that expected? Sounds like your stain wasnt quite dry.
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Jan 12, 2015 16:12
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I'm not really very good with woodworking, but I'm welding together a sort of an end table for my living room to house all my electronics and I'm having trouble finding the wood I need for the top. What I want is a single piece of wood 22"x22" in half-inch thickness. I'm not overly concerned with the type of wood as long as it's flat and true without knots and can take a stain. What I'm finding is that all of the online wood suppliers only sell planks, not boards. Home Depot is the same situation. The only single pieces large enough that I've found have all been plywood. I'm trying to avoid the hassle of using veneer+ply, and I'd also rather not have to use multiple planks to make up the top. There's an 84 Lumber in town that I'm guessing would sell such things but they're extremely inconvenient for me to get to so I'd rather order online if possible. Is there any place that I can buy these larger pieces online? Have I been looking in the wrong places?
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Jan 12, 2015 18:06
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revmoo posted:I'm not really very good with woodworking, but I'm welding together a sort of an end table for my living room to house all my electronics and I'm having trouble finding the wood I need for the top. What I want is a single piece of wood 22"x22" in half-inch thickness. I'm not overly concerned with the type of wood as long as it's flat and true without knots and can take a stain. What I'm finding is that all of the online wood suppliers only sell planks, not boards. Home Depot is the same situation. The only single pieces large enough that I've found have all been plywood. I'm trying to avoid the hassle of using veneer+ply, and I'd also rather not have to use multiple planks to make up the top. Home Depot should sell laminated pine boards that should be big enough for your purposes, at least the ones near me do. The misunderstanding here might be that the size of board you are looking for doesn't really exist. Table tops are either veneer, plywood, or laminated planks - That is, planks glued together. Past a certain width, maybe a foot or so, a single board would start warping and bending.
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Jan 12, 2015 18:28
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You can also find plywood that already has a hardwood veneer applied, to save you the hassle of doing it yourself. But a standard Home Depot sandedply would probably meet your needs just fine, and be a lot cheaper (since you'd probably have to buy an entire 4'x8' sheet of the "hardwood" ply). Home Depot's birch-veneer plywood takes a stain just fine, and you can get it in 2'x4' sheets. It just probably won't be where the 4'x8' sheets are. Ask one of their clerks for guidance.
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Jan 12, 2015 18:43
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Anyone got the Forrest Woodworker II blade with a No.1 grind (WW10401125)? It sounds like an excellent idea, flat top all purpose blade, but how well does it work in execution? I find I rarely change out my cheapo flat top rip blade and I use it for all kinds of cuttings even when it's not suited for it, with splintering as a result, but it's pretty nice when I'm cutting dadoes and half-lap joints and similar things, which seems to happen a lot.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:05
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Slugworth posted:Past a certain width, maybe a foot or so, a single board would start warping and bending. Hmm, perhaps this is the reason I haven't been able to find anything in a larger size. I have to say I'm a little surprised that you can't get solid wood pieces in that sort of a size. Lesson learned. Thanks for the info guys.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:17
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revmoo posted:Hmm, perhaps this is the reason I haven't been able to find anything in a larger size. I have to say I'm a little surprised that you can't get solid wood pieces in that sort of a size. Lesson learned. My local lumberyard carries boards in the 10"+ width range, and they charge a lot extra for those boards. Wide boards that aren't built up out of thinner stock are hard to do.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:37
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http://youtu.be/v3Ad6tBdLbM found this through a thread on reddit, compared to my ability to plane things this might as well be magic.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:38
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I started a new project last week - a maple desk for my wife, which eventually will also support a hutch. It's a frame and panel construction with three drawers on one side and one drawer/one cabinet on the other. The framing elements are hard maple, the panels, drawer fronts and desktop curly maple. The final finish will be two coats of brown dye (first coat sanded back), then BLO, and eventually Arm-R-Seal. I prefinished the desktop and side pieces and put the main cabinetry together last night. Next step is building the drawers and the cabinet door, then trimming it out (base trim and something decorative at the corner rabbets), and assembling/finishing the whole thing. You can't really tell from these pics, but the side panels are made up of some very neat curly bookmatches.    
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Jan 12, 2015 19:48
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mds2 posted:Sounds like your stain wasnt quite dry. If that's the case, am I going to have future issues due to applying the first coat of wipe-on poly before the stain was completely dry? Or do I just need to make sure the 1st coat of poly is completely dry, then continue applying additional poly coats? I'm testing all of this out on a portion of wood that will not be visible in the completed project, so I'm not too concerned with any potential lost color during the application of the first poly coat.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:59
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This table is incredible, that folding mechanism  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7708E1bmoxc&t=1189s The whole video is pretty good if you have some spare time.
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Jan 12, 2015 20:30
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yaffle posted:http://youtu.be/v3Ad6tBdLbM Check out the first plane in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrmCyADNhe0 If I can even somewhat read a piece of paper through my shavings I'm stoked
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Jan 12, 2015 20:32
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bimmian posted:This table is incredible, that folding mechanism Man, making me watch a 3-minute-long trailer before I can see your video? gently caress that noise. What kind of table was it?
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Jan 12, 2015 20:57
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bimmian posted:Check out the first plane in this video holy hell that looks satisfying. bet that surface is smoother than smooth too
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Jan 12, 2015 21:08
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revmoo posted:... I want is a single piece of wood 22"x22" 200 years ago you could have bought a 22" wide board. These days they are rare. You would need to find a high end sawyer. The simpler solution is hardwood plywood with edge banding (easy for DIY types). Another solution is narrow boards glued up to width. You could find a woodworker in your area to make the top for you, pretty basic for any decently equipped shop.
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Jan 12, 2015 21:45
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Well...our dining table is made from a 36"x2"7' douglas fir slab..
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Jan 12, 2015 22:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Man, making me watch a 3-minute-long trailer before I can see your video? gently caress that noise. What kind of table was it? 3 minute long trailer? I didn't even get an ad. Small slab table with foldable legs, the "mechanism" for locking the legs in place you can see here, just snaps into grooves and locks the legs in place. The "snap" sound it makes in the video is pretty satisfying though 
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Jan 12, 2015 23:11
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Well...our dining table is made from a 36"x2"7' douglas fir slab.. Yeah, nobody said it's impossible, it's just harder to find and you're gonna pay for it. My sister has similarly-sized walnut slab for a table. It only cost like three grand just for the slab. 
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Jan 12, 2015 23:12
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So just for comedy purposes... Where would I get a 22"x22" slab, and How much are we talking?
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Jan 12, 2015 23:46
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revmoo posted:So just for comedy purposes... You need to find a local lumber yard/mill. As live-edge furniture is becoming increasingly popular you may be able to find local furniture makers that will sell you slabs too. Price, anything from $100-$1000, depending on wood, quality, prep, etc. Craigslist is your friend. Search for lumber.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:01
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revmoo posted:So just for comedy purposes... Google "[area] slab lumber". probably looking at 250-500 depending on wood, location, quality
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Jan 13, 2015 00:10
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Thanks for the tips guys. Found a 1.62" thick slab of elm that is 23"x67" or so for 300 bucks. That gives me a pretty good starting point.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:21
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bimmian posted:This table is incredible, that folding mechanism sweet, something to put on while cooking, thanks! speaking of satsifying woodworking videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1pvUlQgYtk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1oMZKYuSI8
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Jan 13, 2015 00:51
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The more I see of Japanese joinery, the more I want to learn it  That stuff is jaw-dropping.
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Jan 13, 2015 01:04
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Conduit lumber rack, Jay Bates design. On the unpainted wall I'm gonna make more of these and one row deeper too, there's another wall behind the camera that could use some of these as well. Got a lot of crap up off the floor thanks to this.
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Jan 13, 2015 19:24
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His Divine Shadow posted:Conduit lumber rack, Jay Bates design. On the unpainted wall I'm gonna make more of these and one row deeper too, there's another wall behind the camera that could use some of these as well. Got a lot of crap up off the floor thanks to this. Holy poo poo I thought I was in the building code thread. . . That shelf is probably safe but (especially if I put that up myself. . .) I would be scared for my life every time I walk through the door.
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Jan 13, 2015 19:49
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The pipe itself at that length will take around 2500kg before it goes, the wood supports will probably give out first. The guy who designed it stood on one of his pipes and mine are thicker and bigger. I'm not sure if all that pine and poo poo exceeds 100kg even, distributed across 12 pipes.
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Jan 13, 2015 19:53
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It looks like pieces of wood could fall off. Especially if heavy machines in the room are vibrating them around.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:41
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the wizards beard posted:It looks like pieces of wood could fall off. Especially if heavy machines in the room are vibrating them around. Yeah, especially that slanted short piece on the top shelf is a widowmaker.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:48
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The pipes are slanted upwards by about 10 degrees, so things will want to slide in towards the wall, and the only way I'd get enough vibration in my shop would be to hit the wall themselves with a sledge hammer. I have a solid concrete foundation, I could be hitting the floor with a sledge hammer and nothing would happen on the walls.
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Jan 13, 2015 21:13
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I want some hand saws and I've heard good things about the Veritas saws, basically anything from this page - http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1&p=42884 I really only want to spend on one or two saws, and this is entirely for jointing making like dove tails, is there a specific reason to choose japanese over traditional style saws or vice versa ?
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Jan 14, 2015 02:10
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Chris Schwarz is doing an Ask Me Anything right now. Definitely some good reading material for the next few days when I've got downtime!
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Jan 14, 2015 05:01
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Sylink posted:I want some hand saws and I've heard good things about the Veritas saws, basically anything from this page - http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1&p=42884 Japanese saws may be easier for you what with the pull action. Also they have a very thin kerf and IMO tend to give better bang for the buck relative to a comparable quality western saw.
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Jan 14, 2015 05:31
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Sylink posted:I want some hand saws and I've heard good things about the Veritas saws, basically anything from this page - http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1&p=42884 IMO get one of each if you're not sure. It is really a preference thing, though having both isn't a bad idea. A decent dozuki should only run $30, you'll spend twice that on a veritas dovetail saw (not saying it isn't worth it). A ryoba is also a good buy if you don't have any other saws, very good general purpose saw.
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Jan 14, 2015 16:50
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I have a Veritas dovetail saw and like it quite a bit. I also have a cheap ryoba. They both have their places but I find it harder to cut on a straight line with the ryoba. I heard some woodworker, Rob Cosman maybe?, talk about how your hand is able to repeatedly index on a western style handle, making things like dovetailing consistently easier. Made sense to me at the time.
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Jan 14, 2015 18:20
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Woodsmith Shop is not my favorite woodworking show but considering there are only three that air here on PBS, I would rather watch it than not. Unfortunately this year my local PBS moved the series to their lowest sub station, the only one I can't pick up. Oddly the last couple episodes will air on the regular channel. I sent an email asking about it. Geop posted:Chris Schwarz is doing an Ask Me Anything right now. Definitely some good reading material for the next few days when I've got downtime! Been reading it off and on, great questions. When my woodworking club did a Schwarz chat all the questions were prepared in advance, boring and stuffy, and we are not supposed to ask impromptu questions. So instead of a "chat" it ends up being a really boring interview: What's your favorite hand plane? When did you start woodworking? I'm sure Chris was at his keyboard contemplating the cost of fame. When we did the same "chat" with Steve Ramsey he didn't seem at all interested in being interviewed, he wanted to just shoot the poo poo about whatever. The whole 'format' sort of broke down and people were just -- chatting. So the moderator tried to get it back in interview mode but Steve just started soapboxing on some other subject. He was one of the best guests we've had. In fairness to my group, some guests demand that all questions be submitted in advance and they do not want impromptu discussion.
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Jan 16, 2015 06:08
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I really liked his answer about what it's like to work with Roy Underhill which gives me even more respect to both guys.quote:What's it like working with Roy Underhill? Chris posted:
FruitNYogurtParfait fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jan 17, 2015 |
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Jan 17, 2015 00:23
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Welp, my table saw just stopped working the other day. Made a cut (nothing thick or hard), turned it off, wouldn't turn back on. Resetting the breaker doesn't do anything, switch is fine, capacitor is fine, not sure how best to test the relay. I pulled the motor and took it apart.... poo poo.
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Jan 17, 2015 22:10
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bimmian posted:poo poo. Care to enlighten me? To my lay eye, it looks a little dirty and crusty, but so what?
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Jan 17, 2015 23:25
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The rotor is missing
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Jan 17, 2015 23:31
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