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evil_bunnY posted:Hahaha it's like they're trying to one up each other in a "most insignificant upgrade" contest. +Touchscreen doesn't even come close to +360 degree mode dial. Canon is once again the champion of champions.
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Jan 6, 2015 16:55
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I just picked up a d7100 as an upgrade to my d80 (thank you thread, I like it much better than the d5300 I was looking at before). I have been looking into some entry level wide angle lenses and I was curious if there was a clear go-to one around 600 - 800 USD. Main usage would be landscape and potentially indoor group photos. I saw a few different models on Amazon from sigma and nikon around that price range but I wasn't sure which one for be good for me.
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Jan 6, 2015 21:18
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I believe the Tokina 11-16/2.8 is pretty well regarded (and well below your budget), though they were apparently also showing off an 11-20 model at Photokina a few months ago.
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Jan 6, 2015 22:28
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The Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 is at the high end of your price range, but it's significantly sharper and faster than any of the other APS-C wide zooms. If 18mm is wide enough for you, it's probably worth a look.
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Jan 6, 2015 22:46
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Thanks for the feedback. I saw the tokina mentioned when I first started looking into wide angle but I couldn't recall seeing them talked about on the forums. I do prefer faster / sharper, I'll play around with focal lengths and see what I actually want. Probably do a short day trip and rent one from borrow lenses or just dust off my kit glass.
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Jan 6, 2015 23:23
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district of thizz posted:Thanks for the feedback. I saw the tokina mentioned when I first started looking into wide angle but I couldn't recall seeing them talked about on the forums. I'd recommend using your kit glass for a while and seeing what the shortcomings are. You might end up finding that it is fine for most of your needs but a wide fast prime would be a good addition.
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Jan 6, 2015 23:25
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You could pick up a used Nikon 14mm f2.8 for that. It is a good lens
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Jan 7, 2015 00:01
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The 14mm f/2.8 is a questionable choice for a DX body. It's huge, heavy, and vulnerable to front element damage, and it can't take filters unless what you want is available as a gel. Tokina just announced an 11-20mm f/2.8, which actually has a useful zoom range compared to its predecessor. It should be a good lens, if the performance of the 11-16mm was any indication.
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Jan 7, 2015 01:36
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Since I am a huge sperg, I couldn't stand using a silver lens on my black F100. Tonight I found somebody selling the same lens (the AF 28-80 3.3-5.6 G) in black for $20 so I bought it as a replacement. It works perfectly but there is a small bit of resistance when I turn the focus manually past a certain point. Almost like there is something inside catching. Once I pass that point, it's smooth again. It's kinda subtle, but my silver one is completely smooth the whole way. The F100 has no problem with autofocusing it either. Should I be concerned? I guess who cares for $20 right?
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Jan 8, 2015 06:25
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BANME.sh posted:Since I am a huge sperg, I couldn't stand using a silver lens on my black F100. Tonight I found somebody selling the same lens (the AF 28-80 3.3-5.6 G) in black for $20 so I bought it as a replacement. It works perfectly but there is a small bit of resistance when I turn the focus manually past a certain point. Almost like there is something inside catching. Once I pass that point, it's smooth again. It's kinda subtle, but my silver one is completely smooth the whole way. The F100 has no problem with autofocusing it either. Should I be concerned? I guess who cares for $20 right? It's been dropped. One of the brushes in the AF motor is out of alignment. I had the same issue with my 50mm AF-D except it was bad enough to stop the AF motor. I think it cost me $75 to get fixed at a local shop. Honestly it's not a big deal as long as the AF motor doesn't hang up.
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Jan 8, 2015 12:00
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This has probably been good and covered in this thread but I just noticed the terrible focusing problem with my D7000. I haven't really touched my Nikon since I got a X-pro1 but I did some test shots today and on both my 35mm and 50mm prime the focus was absolutely terrible - although with live view it was perfectly in focus. The Nikon service center's charge for the repair is $224 which I can't really afford at the moment. Are there alternative solutions to the problem. I've heard mixed results with the 'fine-tuning focus' feature. I've got 6 or so lenses for the D7000 so I'm rather invested in the Fx mount. I feel a bit lost on what my next step is....
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Jan 11, 2015 03:06
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842 posted:I've got 6 or so lenses for the D7000 so I'm rather invested in the Fx mount. I feel a bit lost on what my next step is.... The D7k uses a DX sensor, the full frame Nikons use an FX. The mount of all nikon lenses and cameras is F-mount.
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Jan 11, 2015 03:09
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842 posted:This has probably been good and covered in this thread but I just noticed the terrible focusing problem with my D7000. I haven't really touched my Nikon since I got a X-pro1 but I did some test shots today and on both my 35mm and 50mm prime the focus was absolutely terrible - although with live view it was perfectly in focus. It sounds like your back focus is off. I'm pretty sure the D7000 has AF fine tune capabilities, which can fix the problem if it's not too far out of whack. Nikon has a guide on how to do this: https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/51633/~/how-to-use-the-af-fine-tune-function
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Jan 11, 2015 03:15
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So I have a D3300, and finally got a flash for it. When I first put the flash on to play with it, it worked fine, I took a few dumb pictures of my brothers dog, etc. Now, when I put the flash on, it won't fire, the camera acts like it isn't there and tries to pop up the built in flash. I put the flash on a remote and it triggers off of the remote just fine, so I put the remote transmitter on the camera, and.. nothing. It tries to use the pop-up flash. Is there a way to test the hot-shoe on the camera to see if it's working, or is it clear based on the flash not being recognized while directly on the camera, or the remote transmitter not being seen, that it's non-functional?
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Jan 11, 2015 06:59
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The Locator posted:So I have a D3300, and finally got a flash for it. When I first put the flash on to play with it, it worked fine, I took a few dumb pictures of my brothers dog, etc. What kind of flash? A lot of old flashes will gently caress up your DSLR camera body due to high trigger voltages (I think).
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Jan 11, 2015 11:51
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What kind of flash is it and what kind of remote triggers?
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Jan 11, 2015 18:13
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Dren posted:What kind of flash is it and what kind of remote triggers? It was an Altura kit that says it's compatible with the camera - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H84WRK2/?_encoding=UTF8&colid=18RI90ZST1E5K&coliid=I3FV4F8M0DQWFD&psc=1
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Jan 12, 2015 01:29
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Is the D2XS good enough to start shooting weddings with or should I be looking elsewhere?
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Jan 12, 2015 20:50
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GunForumMeme posted:Is the D2XS good enough to start shooting weddings with or should I be looking elsewhere? Are you good enough? Also you might need a lens with that.
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Jan 12, 2015 20:56
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It's really not. Anything over 400 ISO is going to be garbage, the autofocus is going to struggle in anything but perfect lighting.
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Jan 12, 2015 20:56
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GunForumMeme posted:Is the D2XS good enough to start shooting weddings with or should I be looking elsewhere? I feel like if you're asking this, you probably shouldn't be shooting peoples weddings for money. People get sued sometimes for taking wedding photographs that the couple is unhappy with - please bear that in mind. If you're just looking to fart around and take pictures at your friends weddings for fun, it doesn't matter what you get.
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Jan 12, 2015 21:03
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Bottom Liner posted:It's really not. Anything over 400 ISO is going to be garbage, the autofocus is going to struggle in anything but perfect lighting. A common complaint about Nikon pro bodies is the balky autofocus performance, yes
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Jan 12, 2015 21:17
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He's right about the sensor but yeah the D2x's AF will crush nearly anything.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:07
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Mightaswell posted:Are you good enough? No, I am not. I was looking more towards being a second shooter to get better at weddings.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:17
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If this was 2008 it'd be fine with some really fast glass, but it's not 2008 so yeah, anyone with something like a D7000 would be much better equipped if you leave lenses out of the picture.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:59
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Asked about this before a while back, in the lighting thread, but didn't get any response and a lot of time has passed so I'll try again here. Nikon D600. Pocketwizard MiniTT1 on the camera, FlexTT5 on the SB-600 flash. Camera's Flash Sync Speed is set to 1/200 (AutoFP) just as Pocketwizard's wiki says to do. HyperSync doesn't seem to be kicking in, at all. At any shutter speed faster than 1/200, I start getting black bars as the curtain swings down. It almost feels like I'm missing something, but I can't figure it out. Seems like the vaunted PWs should at least be able to get me to sync at 1/250th. Anyone else using this combination of hardware and able to report your results? Phanatic fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 02:33
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So is there any way to test the hot-shoe on my camera to find out if it's bad?
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Jan 13, 2015 03:45
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Phanatic posted:Asked about this before a while back, in the lighting thread, but didn't get any response and a lot of time has passed so I'll try again here. What flash power are you using? According to this page (and the PocketWizard wiki, incidentally), the SB-600 is an IGBT flash. PocketWizard advises people with an IGBT flash to operate the strobe or speedlight at full power for best results, since HyperSync needs a long flash duration to work. Set your SB-600 to M mode and 1/1 power and work from there, if you aren't already.
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Jan 13, 2015 03:48
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TheJeffers posted:What flash power are you using? According to this page (and the PocketWizard wiki, incidentally), the SB-600 is an IGBT flash. PocketWizard advises people with an IGBT flash to operate the strobe or speedlight at full power for best results, since HyperSync needs a long flash duration to work. Set your SB-600 to M mode and 1/1 power and work from there, if you aren't already. I figured it just meant making sure the full-power indicator was illuminated, and hence full power was available, which it is. If I set the flash to manual and dial in full-power then it won't do any TTL exposure, right? I'll give it a try.
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Jan 13, 2015 03:55
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Phanatic posted:I figured it just meant making sure the full-power indicator was illuminated, and hence full power was available, which it is. If I set the flash to manual and dial in full-power then it won't do any TTL exposure, right? The flash ready light just means that the flash is ready to fire. It doesn't have any influence on the amount of light that the flash is going to put out (whether set through TTL exposure control or a manual setting.) You're correct in that the camera won't do any TTL flash metering with the flash in M mode, but that doesn't really matter here, since you want full power all the time. Adjust your aperture to a wider or narrower setting to control the overall brightness of the scene instead, and raise or lower your ISO if need be.
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Jan 13, 2015 04:03
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Phanatic posted:I figured it just meant making sure the full-power indicator was illuminated, and hence full power was available, which it is. If I set the flash to manual and dial in full-power then it won't do any TTL exposure, right? You can't do TTL with hypersync anyway - the camera wouldn't be metering intending for the tail off of the light which is what hypersync is using. That's why you want a high power, so the duration is as long as possible
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Jan 13, 2015 04:38
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Phanatic posted:I figured it just meant making sure the full-power indicator was illuminated, and hence full power was available, which it is. If I set the flash to manual and dial in full-power then it won't do any TTL exposure, right? And of course, you can't do TTL with hypersync. You need to better understand how those things work, and you'll realize the inter-dependencies.
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Jan 13, 2015 10:12
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I've noticed that my cheapass speedlite is doing something weird with my D7000. It worked completely fine with the D3100 and works fine with the D7000... except for if the shutter speed is above about 200-250. When the shutter speed is higher than that, it leaves a black bar at the bottom of the picture, and the size of the black bar increases as the shutter speed increases (I dialled ss up to 1000 and half the picture was black). Any idea why it's doing that? Also is there any way to change the focus method on the D7000 so I can select the focus point myself, rather than just pressing the shutter button and hoping it focuses correctly then realigning the shot, etc?
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Jan 13, 2015 10:26
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That's just your max sync speed. The shutter isn't fast enough to leave the whole sensor exposed at the same time.
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Jan 13, 2015 10:34
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Oh, that makes sense. Is the solution just keep the shutter speed low, or do the more expensive hotshoe flashes work well with higher shutter speeds?
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Jan 13, 2015 10:58
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If you really really need higher speed then remotes with hypersync or just strobing the flash as the curtain travels works, but it's a pain and you lose other things (TTL, Power/range, etc). Just control your shutter speed, or use the flash as a shutter.
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Jan 13, 2015 11:57
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Fraction posted:Oh, that makes sense. Is the solution just keep the shutter speed low, or do the more expensive hotshoe flashes work well with higher shutter speeds? Keep your shutter speed at or below 1/250 with flash. The D7000 simply cannot sync at faster shutter speeds. quote:Also is there any way to change the focus method on the D7000 so I can select the focus point myself, rather than just pressing the shutter button and hoping it focuses correctly then realigning the shot, etc? http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d7000/af-settings.htm TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 13:04
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Fraction posted:Oh, that makes sense. Is the solution just keep the shutter speed low, or do the more expensive hotshoe flashes work well with higher shutter speeds? More expensive flashes work in FP/HSS/Whatever mode, by pulsing the flash multiple times as the curtain travels over the shutter. (The reason you see a slit, is that above X-Sync, the curtains can't move fast enough to expose the entire sensor at once @ that speed, then close up. So instead, the two curtains move together with an open slit between them, exposing each piece of the sensor for that amount of time) - FP/HSS Flash does a bunch of bursts repeatedly so that each part of the sensor gets exposed, but since it has to do a lot of high power bursts in succession, the range for the flash is massively reduced. With Hypersync (pocketwizard tech, also ripped off by yongnuo and called Supersync) , what they are doing is taking advantage of the fact that at very high power levels, the burst of light from most flashes is longer in duration. The higher the power level, the longer the duration of the flash. So what you end up with as far as light out of your flash is like a big peak, and then a long "trail" that rolls off as time goes on. (This is how the flash pulse always looks, but it's much faster at lower power levels) - HyperSync/SuperSync fires the flash a little early, so the initial huge pulse of flash is missed, but the long slow tail of it is captured as the shutter slit moves across the sensor. This allows you to expose using that tail of light above x-sync.
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Jan 13, 2015 16:09
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I just found a Nikon pk-13 in a box. I imagine it is from the late 70's. Can I use this on a D7000? I already have a old Micro-Nikkor 55mm lens so would this tube even be useful?
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Jan 16, 2015 07:17
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You could put the extension tube on the micro nikkor to make it even macro-er. I had a 105mm macro that needed the tube to go 1:1 and I think the old 55's are the same way.
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Jan 16, 2015 07:26
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