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Meathole posted:Also, I'll add that this is the first car I have owned that I did the suspension first(before anything other than a tune), and the coilovers make the car 10X more fun to drive than any other mods I have done on past cars. Power is great and all, but when you do nothing but spin and slide every time you stand on it or go around a corner, and have to put up with the musy stock suspension, it sucks. I thought about putting a blower on it after the suspension was done, but instead decided it was great as-is and spent $5k on a bike that'll trap 140 mph without trying, even with my fat rear end on it. I would still love to supercharge the Mustang, but after realizing that it would never really hook on the street at any sane speed without sticky tires with heat in them, I decided to wait. Right out of the box any non-brembo/track pack GT is straight up unacceptable for "spirited" driving. The rear end gets so unsettled and squirrelly on broken road surfaces that the only place to go flat out would be highways and newly paved roads. The biggest suspension fixes I think were UCA/mount and a sturdy as hell panhard bar.
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Jan 11, 2015 05:21
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Starkk posted:DIB is the right choice.
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Jan 11, 2015 05:36
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ilkhan posted:Which rims? The EB rims are all 9" wide and are the same as the front GT-PP rims. The rear on the GT-PP are 9.5" wide. Sorry, didn't mention it was an '11 GT with Brembo
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Jan 11, 2015 05:40
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Starkk posted:DIB is the right choice. I see one like that in traffic a lot. Even on the bike I'll sit behind it to hear the exhaust before I split by.
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Jan 11, 2015 10:41
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Now exactly the new Mustang but still cool The New FORD GT!!!!!! http://jalopnik.com/ford-gt-this-is-it-1678893649 and some inside pics (i think they are rendered) http://www.autoblog.com/photos/ford-gt-2/ kalvick fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 15:44
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Wooooooow. That is breathtaking. Wonder if Jeremy Clarkson will buy one of these?
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Jan 12, 2015 15:51
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Now we got some Mustang News!!!! Shelby GT 350 R http://jalopnik.com/ford-mustang-shelby-gt350-r-this-is-it-1678951401 kalvick fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 16:03
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kalvick posted:Now exactly the new Mustang but still cool Twin-turbo V6 and a DCG on an american car? Did the Japanese win WW2 and are churning out GT-Rs under the Ford badge? ninjae: I loving love this thing!
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Jan 12, 2015 17:56
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Anyone ever buy a shifter gasket from http://www.stangshiftergaskets.com? Not sure if it'll help my case, but I heard a lot of noise coming from the shifter before I put it in storage for the winter. It would go away if say i was in 3rd and I put slight pressure towards the front. When I can start wrenching on it in the spring Ill obviously take the console out and make sure everythings nice and tight but for $15 it seems like a solid way to cut down on noise that isn't coming from the engine. Cage fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 18:38
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Did they drop the GT back down in height? It's barely up to those guys' nuts. I'm on break in my Mustang with my seat reclined, in guessing this is about the actual head height while driving that thing.
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Jan 12, 2015 18:43
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bowling 4 buttcoins posted:Right out of the box any non-brembo/track pack GT is straight up unacceptable for "spirited" driving. The rear end gets so unsettled and squirrelly on broken road surfaces that the only place to go flat out would be highways and newly paved roads. Yeah, it wasn't even good enough for comfortable cruising to the grocery store. The whole car just wallowed around all over the place like an old Cadillac. Even going down the highway it always felt like a 5,000 pound sled with missing shock absorbers. I did the coilovers, panhard bar, and relocation brackets together, drove it for a while, and then put the BMR control arms on just so I could use the top hole of the relocation brackets. The control arms did jack poo poo, I never felt a difference, but i needed them regardless so the geometry would be halfway right. My UCA is stock, and I don't care enough to mess around trying to replace it. I have zero wheelhop(never had any stock either), it rides way better, and with my Summer wheels and tires(18X10's all the way around with 275/40's) it'll go around corners scary fast for something that weighs what it does. I'm very very happy with it, and don't see any need to swap sway bars or even firm up the damping on the struts and shocks much above full soft. On a track things would certainly be different, with quick directional changes, heavy braking, etc., but on the street I don't see any reason to mess with what's working.
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Jan 13, 2015 01:08
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Shelby GT350 Mustang should start around $50K Not bad if true. ~10k more than the list price of the base PP GT Premium.
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Jan 16, 2015 18:48
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El Scotch posted:Shelby GT350 Mustang should start around $50K Well I for one cant afford that, but I would be highly interested in seeing the price of crate motor and wiring harness! that flat plane crank noise is awesome!
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Jan 16, 2015 19:01
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El Scotch posted:Shelby GT350 Mustang should start around $50K Part of me wants to DD one so much...
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Jan 17, 2015 22:19
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If anyone here buys a new '15/'16 Mustang and hears a weird rattling noise coming from the front end (similar to a coin vibrating around) PLEASE let me know.
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Jan 19, 2015 08:06
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Devyl posted:If anyone here buys a new '15/'16 Mustang and hears a weird rattling noise coming from the front end (similar to a coin vibrating around) PLEASE let me know. Did you drop a coin out of your pocket on the assembly line?
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Jan 19, 2015 08:27
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Devyl posted:If anyone here buys a new '15/'16 Mustang and hears a weird rattling noise coming from the front end (similar to a coin vibrating around) PLEASE let me know. Haven't heard anything on mine like that but I'll let you know should anything pop up.
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Jan 19, 2015 08:33
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Raluek posted:Did you drop a coin out of your pocket on the assembly line? No, but a lot of the front rails, specifically this part:  came from the manufacturer with slugs still stuck in them. While we were able to get a good percentage out, there are some that slipped through and made it into production.
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Jan 19, 2015 08:49
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Is it something the owner can get out later if need be?
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Jan 19, 2015 09:14
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Note to self: avoid 2015-16 model (I loathe rattles, buzzes, and squeaks. I bought my '11 Mustang because I test drove it on the roughest road I could find and didn't hear any.)
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Jan 19, 2015 10:33
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I've heard somewhere that squeaks are just normal sounds for a mustang. My 04 has a nasty one whenever I turn or hit a bump. 99% sure its the steering rack bushings but its put away for the winter now. 
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Jan 19, 2015 17:31
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Speaking about random noises, my 2012 has started making a squeaking sound from the rear end when going over bumps. Is there anything that I can do to narrow this down before going into the stealership and being like "the rear end squeks" and then being told that they can't reproduce it?
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Jan 20, 2015 01:14
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shodanjr_gr posted:Speaking about random noises, my 2012 has started making a squeaking sound from the rear end when going over bumps. Is there anything that I can do to narrow this down before going into the stealership and being like "the rear end squeks" and then being told that they can't reproduce it? How many miles? Brembo car? There isn't a whole lot to make squeak back there but EVERY bushing is relatively lovely from factory. Could be the UCA bushing, LCA bushings.. can you get the car jacked up by the diff and try to replicate where the sound is coming from?
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Jan 20, 2015 05:23
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bowling 4 buttcoins posted:How many miles? Brembo car? It's a performance package V6 with 23k miles on it. Unfortunately I don't have a jack. I've occasionally been able to replicate the sound by rocking the rear end pretty hard when stationary.
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Jan 20, 2015 05:30
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ilkhan posted:Is it something the owner can get out later if need be? I'm not sure how the frame looks completely assembled in that area, but I'd assume not. They're welded up pretty good from our factory. Ford got pissed at us when they built a few test mules and heard rattling coming from the front end and found out what the deal was when they cut them open.
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Jan 20, 2015 06:37
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shodanjr_gr posted:It's a performance package V6 with 23k miles on it. Unfortunately I don't have a jack. I've occasionally been able to replicate the sound by rocking the rear end pretty hard when stationary. Check your sway bar links back there, that gen was notorious for them going bad. Typically they clunk but I've seen them squeaking as well. Get the dealer to put it up on an alignment rack and jounce it up and down. Should show itself then.
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Jan 26, 2015 02:13
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I am now the proud new owner of a 2012 Mustang GT. Nobody told me stock mustangs ran 13s. Flat. At 110. I'm scared of this car and I love it. I can't believe people can get used to this kind of speed. The only rub to this being perfect is the drat power seat motor got stuck, so the front of the seat is too high, so I either sit unevenly with my knees up and hurt my back, or have the seat too high but level, and at 6'3" I look like lurch sitting in it and have to crane my neck. This is apparently common, bleh. Are there any good racing seats that bolt in to avoid this happening again? Also, do racing seats generally help taller drivers fit a helmet comfortably? I'm not about to own something this fun and not track it. Also, I think the return spring on my clutch had been softened or removed, or I'm just Fred Flintstone - it does not have the hard pedal everyone says they do stock. Is this going to wear my clutch out sooner or should I just go with it and not worry? It's really easy for me to modulate for such a powerful car.
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Jan 26, 2015 17:23
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Congrats! Launch better/practice and see mid-high 12's stock; 11's without much money  Removing the clutch return spring should have made the pedal more firm, not softer. I would check and see if it's been removed, and if it hasn't, go ahead and remove it. You will not see any abnormal clutch wear unless you ride with your foot on the clutch pedal itself. As far as how heavy the clutch is, my 5'3" 135 lb wife didn't complain about the clutch in my '12, so I usually chalk that up to people being limp legged ninny babies. Can't help you with the seats, unfortunately. Tide fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 17:30
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Space Whale posted:I am now the proud new owner of a 2012 Mustang GT. Somehow people do. Having gone for a test drive in a '15 GT Vert yesterday, I agree. After two WOT runs in 3rd I turned to the sales dude and was like "I'm going to get into SOOO much trouble".  Apparently most drivers calm down on the streets once they start doing track days. I hope so.Depending on when in the year it was purchased you may still be under warrantee. Take it in ASAP and see if they'll take care of it. Otherwise, you're tall and that sucks. Don't know about the racing seats. I'm with ya on tracking it. Check the clutch pedal. If there is a perch for a spring in there, without a spring, the return spring was removed. Reactions to removing it are mixed, but sounds like you like it. This is a good thing. 
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Jan 26, 2015 17:31
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Tide posted:Launch better/practice and see mid-high 12's stock; 11's without much money 
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Jan 26, 2015 18:14
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I'm not kidding. Back when the Coyotes came out, some chick was taking her Mustang to the track with some pretty basic bolt ons (slicks, long tube headers, a couple of other basic bolt ons, and MAYBE a higher RPM stall converter, plus tune) and running high 10s with two kid seats in the back. I'll see if i can find a vid of it. She might have had a bit more but it wasn't much that you couldn't do in your driveway. A quick search brought me this link: http://www.modularfords.com/threads/185818-Bolt-on-2011-2013-Mustang-GT-5-0-Drag-Racing-ET-List So, more than just basic normal bolt ons, but still. Mid 10s? I'll take it. Tide fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 18:27
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Tide posted:I'm not kidding. Oh, I believe you. Unfortunately I can't mod a torque converter, just my left foot. Speaking of which my back is absolutely killing me. Are these seats just not great on tall people or is this all because the front of the seat is stuck too high? Ford seats in general tend to just push against my upper back and some of my lower back, leaving my middle not so supported. Any seat recommendations for people with a lot of upper back arch?
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Jan 26, 2015 20:14
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I would guess it's your current sitting position that you can't adjust because of the burnt out motor. I'm no where near your height (5'10" on a good day) but I spent many an hour at a time in mine with no back issues. I actually thought they were about the most comfortable seat I had ever sat in. There's a lumbar adjustment / inflatable air bladder in the seat in all models, I think. At least it was on my leather clad premium version. Might check that. And get your seat fixed. Your biggest issue with trap times is going to be traction. Fortunately, slicks or drag radials and some mild suspension upgrades will fix that. Stock, and depending on track condition, I got my best results with a well timed clutch dump from about 1700 RPM and rolling into the throttle (rather than just putting my right foot down as hard and fast as possible). Do it right, and you'll shoot out like a cannon. Do it wrong, and you'll either kill it or send the rear tires up in smoke. By the time I sold mine, I was at 600 RWHP and on the street, with street tires, 1st-3rd where pretty much useless.
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Jan 26, 2015 20:24
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Tide posted:I'm not kidding. This makes me happy, because it means the Mustang is finally (10+ years after they stopped being made) finally caught up with the f body. So now I can buy the one I like, without starting so goddamn far behind.
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Jan 26, 2015 22:26
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I got a happy middle with my seat. I look like I'm 8' tall but my back is getting less sore now. Are stock replacement seats in the same price range as a decent race seat? I'm wondering if I could just ask CarMax to put one of those in instead of getting a stock seat I'm just going to replace anyway. Tide posted:I would guess it's your current sitting position that you can't adjust because of the burnt out motor. I'm no where near your height (5'10" on a good day) but I spent many an hour at a time in mine with no back issues. I actually thought they were about the most comfortable seat I had ever sat in. There's a lumbar adjustment / inflatable air bladder in the seat in all models, I think. At least it was on my leather clad premium version. Might check that. By kill it do you mean bog the motor or something bad? And what suspension mods do I need to look at. The UCA, bushings, and such, or something more involved? Edit: How do I look this up? 
Space Whale fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 27, 2015 00:20
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I came up with the following after Googling for that part no. (M-FR1-MGTB). Seems to be a combo pack of mufflers, tune, and air filter. http://www.americanmuscle.com/power-pack-2011-gt.html
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Jan 27, 2015 08:50
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It's pretty close to time to replace the factory tires on my race red 2012 V6; I do about 7500 miles/year, always in Florida, so I'm thinking these tires and wheels: The Pilot Super Sport tires recommend wheel widths from 6.5" to 8.5", and these wheels are in that range; they don't seem too tacky to my unrefined tastes either.
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Jan 27, 2015 15:24
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Number_6 posted:I came up with the following after Googling for that part no. (M-FR1-MGTB). Seems to be a combo pack of mufflers, tune, and air filter. I googled for a half hour and didn't find jack poo poo, tried to call ford racing but they were closed for the night; then I just went driving again, and started learning how to launch  Thanks for finding it! Cocoa Crispies posted:It's pretty close to time to replace the factory tires on my race red 2012 V6; I do about 7500 miles/year, always in Florida, so I'm thinking these tires and wheels: This is my first fast car and I'm learning about high performance tires as I go. I have Sport Pilot AS3s on it; 255/40 R18 if I remember correctly. Where do they fit in the pantheon of sticky rubber? Do they really need the road to be over 45* to be safe? What are other good options granted I don't decide I love these? (I do, they're incredibly grippy and take first gear shenanigans in sport mode to even chirp) Is there a tire thread I've skipped over?
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Jan 27, 2015 16:33
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Space Whale posted:I am now the proud new owner of a 2012 Mustang GT. Congrats on the new stang! As an 06 GT owner, I'm very jealous of what you guys can do stock!
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Jan 27, 2015 16:56
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Space Whale posted:This is my first fast car and I'm learning about high performance tires as I go. I have Sport Pilot AS3s on it; 255/40 R18 if I remember correctly. Where do they fit in the pantheon of sticky rubber? Do they really need the road to be over 45* to be safe? What are other good options granted I don't decide I love these? (I do, they're incredibly grippy and take first gear shenanigans in sport mode to even chirp)  Everything I've read that's willing to throw out a number cites about 45°F as the bottom limit for summer tires.Consumer Reports puts the Sport Pilot AS/3 at the top of their all-season rankings. If you get a capital-W Winter, you might consider alternating summer and winter tires instead of all-seasons, but that's mostly hearsay, because I have basically no winter driving experience.  
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Jan 27, 2015 17:16
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