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Crotch Fruit posted:Even that would not do enough justice to convey how the drat thing is impossible to even mount the blade. I honestly believe they simply put a completely wrong motor shaft on this since it is impossible to use it. The shaft both sticks out too far, and is too short to safely mount a blade, so someone hosed up when trying to copy the blue prints. This posting had me looking up miter saws again, as I periodically do (I just have a fixed 10" dewalt). It seems like a weird market. There is Ryobi and below at like $200. Then there is Dewalt/Ridgid/Hitachi and everyone else at $400 for a 10" slider. There is very little between $200 and $400. So it seems like the slider is a pretty big step to make. Either you're jumping down in quality or up in price. If you're often cutting wide stock the slider is worth it. But if you're not, I'd consider the 12" non-sliding Dewalt (just over $200) against the 10" Ryobi slider. As another aside I've never fully understood Ridgid. I like them, and have a couple tools, but Ridgid is a Home Depot exclusive. Given that, why does Home Depot so often position them as basically identical in cost to Dewalt/Milwaukee/Makita/Bosch especially in areas where there seems to be a glaring gap in the market like miter saws here. Their cordless tools in particular are identical to the bigger names, so why bother? Ok sometimes they're 10% cheaper and/or have a few extra features, but generally it's hard to pull the trigger on them when the better known (and often better reviewed) name brands are roughly the same price. (Oh, craftsman, which I sometimes forget exists, fills the gap a little with a 10" slider at $229)
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Jan 11, 2015 17:45
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At least the compressor doesn't involve a 10" metal disc spinning right in front of my chest.
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My logic is a 10" can cut a 4x4 or a 2x4 but not a 6x6 or 2x6. A 12" can cut a 2x6, but not a 6x6 (maybe?) or 2x8. . . a 10" slider however can cut a 2x10 or almost a 2x12. So the 10" slider can cut more dimensional lumber than a 12" non slider. The 12" fixed gains an extra inch in thickness but looses a lot in terms of width.
Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jan 11, 2015 |
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Jan 11, 2015 19:34
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Well, wups. I bought a $10 used-three-times Central Pneumatic (Harbor Freight) 3-gallon compressor from Craigslist because why not. I got it home to find out the max PSI was 100, .6 SCFM at 90 PSI. In short, it's a tire pump. I bought it to do upholstery stapling, because when you're stapling into a hardwood furniture carcass you need some oomph. We'll see how this works with the well-reviewed-on-Amazon pneumatic stapler I got. If it's a dud, I'll either stalk Craigslist for a decent compressor or just spend the extra $50 for the canonical 3.5-gal 135-PSI Porter Cable brand-new. (This puppy: http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCFP02003-3-5-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ ) Note to self: buy used tools IFF you know enough about the tool to know what you need. At $10, an electric air pump is still a handy thing.
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Jan 11, 2015 19:52
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That Porter Cable is a work horse and it's pretty light to move around, anyone looking for an affordable compressor should consider it. They regularly include a free 18ga gun (which is also good) with it at the big box stores around here at no extra cost, so you might want to look into that. One thing I would recommend if you get it, is to consider grabbing one of these as an alternative for the stock valve, easier to drain and less prone to rusting or stripping out if you drain often.
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Jan 11, 2015 20:34
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Crotch Fruit posted:My logic is a 10" can cut a 4x4 or a 2x4 but not a 6x6 or 2x6. A 12" can cut a 2x6, but not a 6x6 (maybe?) or 2x8. . . a 10" slider however can cut a 2x10 or almost a 2x12. So the 10" slider can cut more dimensional lumber than a 12" non slider. The 12" fixed gains an extra inch in thickness but looses a lot in terms of width. I posted about my miter saw decisions a few pages pack, and ended up with basically exactly this logic. I went with the DeWalt 10" Slider (admittedly, $450 is a big jump up from the $220 for the 10" fixed)
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Jan 11, 2015 20:49
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Just continuing with the mitre saw discussion: I've limited my buying decision to either the DeWalt DWS780, or the Milwaukee 6955-20HP. But I'm having trouble deciding. Does anyone have experience with either model? I've been checking reviews online, and it sounds like the Milwaukee has more electronic components that are awkward to use, but has a much better sliding mechanism that the DeWalt miter saw. If I go with the DeWalt, I'd also have to spend an extra ~$200 on a saw stand. And on the topic of miter saw stands- are they brand specific? ie. can I put a Kobalt miter saw on a DeWalt stand? melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 02:10
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I've got the 10" version of the same dewalt (double bevel, sliding) and have zero complaints, the slider seems to hold tolerance pretty well, changing blades is reasonably simple, etc. I've cut everything on mine from wood to plastic to soft metal to steel, haven't had any trouble yet. Obviously that doesn't really speak to a comparison, even aside from being the 10" instead of the 12", but there it is. As for a stand: if you want a stand, great, do that, but depending on your intended use, I thought I'd point out what I did: I just put a drop in my 16' workbench and installed mine there, which gives me 4 feet of table on one side of the blade and 12' on the other. The table on those saws is always (unless the designers are retarded) exactly a 2x4-on-edge high, so it's easy to match height there, just make your drop a 2x4 deep. Worked great, and if I ever DO want to take the saw out, it's just a couple bolts real quick and I can haul it out and put it on the tailgate of my truck or whatever. e: for reference:  ee: Wow, so THAT'S what my workbench actually looks like. It's been so long since I've seen it, I'd forgotten. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 02:16
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Bad Munki posted:I've got the 10" version of the same dewalt (double bevel, sliding) and have zero complaints, the slider seems to hold tolerance pretty well, changing blades is reasonably simple, etc. I've cut everything on mine from wood to plastic to soft metal to steel, haven't had any trouble yet. Obviously that doesn't really speak to a comparison, even aside from being the 10" instead of the 12", but there it is. How deep is your work-bench? I'm planning out my shop now (with the same saw as you) and am wondering what I should aim for in depth (to accommodate the slider) and width (to allow for side-to-side adjustment).
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Jan 12, 2015 02:41
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So again this is all relevant to the 10" double bevel slider, I have no idea how the dimensions differ on the 12", but: My workbench is just shy of 31" deep. They were thoughtful enough to put the power cord hanging off the back of the slider on a swivel that points down, so it doesn't take up much extra space in the back. So when I installed the thing, I just scooted the saw back until the cord point was a half inch out from the wall. Set like that, I have 10" from the fence to the edge of the bench. That's generally way more than I need, and even if I do need more, it's okay if the workpiece hangs off the workbench a little, as long as it's mostly on the bench. So I could drop a 12" deep piece on there and it'd be fully on the saw's table, and only a couple inches off the workbench, perfectly stable for most purposes. The only real concern with doing what I did is the angle locking mechanism in front. It comes real close to bumping into the edges of the drop, BUT, as long as the drop is wide enough to take the saw (which it has to be, duh) and doesn't go much beyond 10" in front of the fence, then you can get the full 45° in each direction. If it's too deep, the locking handle will crash into the edge of the drop. I think you could fit 12" in front of the fence and still get the full 45, but it'd be cozy. My saw actually goes to, I think, 50 or 55 in one direction? I can't quiiiiite get to the very end on that side, but it hasn't mattered yet, and if it did, I could just slide the saw out an inch further.  The vertical tilt runs into no problems. The sliding mechanism in the back just swings over the workbench at each end of the horizontal swing, so no problem there either.  The biggest downside to doing this, of course, is that workbenches tend to get littered in poo poo, so half the time when I want to just slap something down and cut, I have to spend a few minutes cleaning all the crap off my bench. But that may be more of a problem for me than you. e: Oh, one little serendipitous perk to have the drop just wide enough to accommodate my saw: I discovered the space I left is juuuuust wide enough to jam my hacksaw in upside down between the saw and the edge of the drop, which has acted as a very convenient vise-like holder for the thing, which is handy when, say, you want to trim 1/4" off the end of a bolt while holding it in vice grips. It's sorta silly, but I'm always surprised at how often I find myself jamming the hacksaw in there now that I know it fits so well. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 03:07
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Bad Munki posted:So again this is all relevant to the 10" double bevel slider, I have no idea how the dimensions differ on the 12", but: Thanks, this is a god-send. I mean I measured my saw in all the various ranges of motion, but it's the sort of thing where I'd totally forget about some simple-yet-annoying factor so having hands-on expertise is great. I'm considering building something either like this:  Or like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcuElzIKDKE e:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgGmebcgvM8
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Jan 12, 2015 03:43
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If you look at my original picture (the bench in its nascent moment just after installing the saw) you can see I left a break in the shelving underneath. Having that space for some dust collection (as in your first pic) is a definite must-do. I left the surface the saw is sitting on a little short in the back so that I could fish the shop vac hose up through the back, leaving it completely out of the way. Oh, the other thing I did was run 1/2" conduit along the back underside of the bench and installed four boxes with outlets evenly space along the thing, on its own circuit. I'm super glad I did that, means I don't get any dimming of my lights or anything else when I power up the saw or any other tools I have installed on the bench (I have a lot of lights in my garage, seven 80-watt 4' dual-bulb fixtures for a total of like 35,000 lumens, so combining that with a big power draw like a saw would almost always cause a dip in lighting, if it didn't trip the breaker outright.)
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Jan 12, 2015 03:52
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What corded drill should I buy for woodworking that is less than $100? I don't want to have to charge batteries, I'm going to use it at home all the time where I will have an outlet or extension cord nearby, I have a cordless "drill" (7.2v screw driver) for just in case stuff, and I think I can get a more powerful and cheaper drill if I go corded. I think a $59 DeWalt 8amp is my best bet but I don't want a repeat of the Harbor Freight miter saw incident. . .
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Jan 12, 2015 04:30
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Crotch Fruit posted:I wish I could have received a just fine saw, as is I simply don't feel safe buying an HF saw anymore. I fully believe a $200 Ryobi will last me a lifetime without killing me. The 10" does look a little sketchy, I agree. If I had to do it all over, I'd probably get a name brand one but the wife was pleased with the price and the 12" really is a good saw for the cash. The adjustment mechanisms are pretty bare bones, but it cuts well and the table rotator is really solid. Not regretting the purchase but I can understand wanting to get a better brand. I wonder if they will waive the fee if it's so obviously defective.
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Jan 12, 2015 05:11
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Doctor Zero posted:I wonder if they will waive the fee if it's so obviously defective. Fee was waived no questions asked, it took less than 5 minutes and everything about the process was just very mundane as if they had done this hundreds of times before. The Ryobi is in my basement.
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Jan 12, 2015 05:30
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Crotch Fruit posted:as if they had done this hundreds of times before Your first clue should have been the 78 layers of packing tape re-sealing the box. 
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Jan 12, 2015 05:39
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Crotch Fruit posted:What corded drill should I buy for woodworking that is less than $100? I don't want to have to charge batteries, I'm going to use it at home all the time where I will have an outlet or extension cord nearby, I have a cordless "drill" (7.2v screw driver) for just in case stuff, and I think I can get a more powerful and cheaper drill if I go corded. I have this one. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWD112-Pistol-Grip-Keyless-All-Metal/dp/B0011XSEW6 I think it's the same as the one you linked, except the DWD112 has a bubble level included (actually pretty handy). I've had it about a year, and I'm real happy with it.
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Jan 12, 2015 06:37
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I got my Dust Deputy this weekend. Hooked it up to my Ridgid shop vac and it's amaaaaazing. Just as good as the reviews say. I vacuumed up all the sawdust I made over the christmas holidays building my desk, which ended up filling about half of the 5 gallon bucket on the deputy and none of it made it into my actual vacuum. Huzzah! I also tried it out hooked up to my table saw and router table and it works great both of them. Couldn't be happier with it  Also I didn't realize this but the dust deputy has tapered connections so you don't need to have a 2.5 inch hose, the Ridgid 1 7/8" one will work too I think. Though if you did that you'd probably need an adapter to connect the hose to most tools anyway.
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Jan 12, 2015 06:41
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Bad Munki posted:Your first clue should have been the 78 layers of packing tape re-sealing the box. Actually my first clue was the scrap of white paper taped to the box. Either someone had a bad Christmas, or it could be related to how the clerk had to tell their helper to stop taping on defective tags.
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Jan 12, 2015 14:04
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canyoneer posted:I have this one. I got that one for Christmas, and have used it twice. So far, so good.
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Jan 12, 2015 14:08
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Picked up the DWD110K at Home Depot, it still shot screws like crap at first and ate 2 harbor freight Phillips head bits. Eventually I decided to try switching from a 1/8" pilot hole to a 9/64" and the difference is night and day.  For reference, I'm putting 3" drywall screws into 2x4s to finally assemble a workbench (all the lumber is there and one set of legs is complete!) Is there an easy to read chart for pilot hole size? I don't believe my box of screws is labeled with the diameter of the screws only the length. I tried to guess by holding up the bit in front of the screw and you can tell how that worked out. . .canyoneer posted:I have this one. For reference, the difference is actually that the DWD112 has an all-metal chuck, the DWD110 also has the spirit level on back. I honestly don't know what they mean by all metal chuck, especially since the outside of the chuck looks like plastic in the amazon pictures. I am assuming they might mean all metal gears? Also, I have learned that the ratcheting chuck on the DWD110 does not allow me to get as tight a grip as I would like on a screw bit, when I placed the naked Philips driver in the chuck and tightened it down, the bit immediately slid all the way back in the chuck when I applied pressure. I quickly rectified this by using a quick change adapter but I was still a little surprised. . . With my cordless drill without a ratcheting chuck I am able to tighten it down by hand enough to prevent a bit from sliding back in the chuck.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:45
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No pilot hole size chart is going to be easy to read if you don't know what size your screws are... Pretty good odds that 3" drywall screws are #8 in which case the appropriate pilot hole would be between 5/64" and 7/64" for soft wood, depending on who you ask. 9/64" is larger than the screw shaft, and you're starting to lose holding power at that point.
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Jan 12, 2015 22:08
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Speaking of quick change adapters, I have a huge tray o' bits from Ryobi, with quick change adapter included for all of the screw heads, hex bits, ratchets, etc. Cool! Problem is, none of the drill bits have the hex quick change thing, and must be manually tightened down. Sort of a bummer, as the quick change needed 95% of the time is swapping between making a hole (drill bit) and filling the hole with a screw (screwdriver bit). Does such a thing exist?
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Jan 12, 2015 22:44
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canyoneer posted:Speaking of quick change adapters, I have a huge tray o' bits from Ryobi, with quick change adapter included for all of the screw heads, hex bits, ratchets, etc. Cool! Hex shank drill bits? My local home depot had those and others on the shelf.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:18
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My inclination would be to invest in a decent impact driver. It's even quicker to not do bit changes at all, than it is to do quick changes, and impact drivers are better at screwdriving than drills.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:21
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thespaceinvader posted:My inclination would be to invest in a decent impact driver. It's even quicker to not do bit changes at all, than it is to do quick changes, and impact drivers are better at screwdriving than drills. Can you recommend a good corded impact driver for under $100? I still am not ready to transition to cordless, and all I see for corded are well over $100 with the exception of a Porter Cable, Craftsman, or Harbor Freight. I am tempted to get the Harbor Freight because on paper the specs are better, it's cheaper, and they can't gently caress up something as simple as a drill, right??  Besides, I am already familiar with their returns process.
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Jan 13, 2015 12:48
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 What's that yellow thing in the chuck?
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Jan 13, 2015 13:39
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Crotch Fruit posted:Can you recommend a good corded impact driver for under $100? I still am not ready to transition to cordless, and all I see for corded are well over $100 with the exception of a Porter Cable, Craftsman, or Harbor Freight. I am tempted to get the Harbor Freight because on paper the specs are better, it's cheaper, and they can't gently caress up something as simple as a drill, right?? Despite my liking of the 12" slider and also despite the fact that I got a cordless impact wrench from them that works pretty well, I generally would recommend avoiding power tools at Harbor Freight.
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Jan 13, 2015 13:52
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spog posted:
Quick change thing - http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2730-Piece-Quick-Change/dp/B000056H9O
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Jan 13, 2015 14:56
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armorer posted:Quick change thing - http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2730-Piece-Quick-Change/dp/B000056H9O Thanks. Oooh...that's quite clever. I could see myself using something like that. (that said, I would probably use 2 drills at the same time instead)
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Jan 13, 2015 16:00
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Crotch Fruit posted:Can you recommend a good corded impact driver for under $100? I still am not ready to transition to cordless, and all I see for corded are well over $100 with the exception of a Porter Cable, Craftsman, or Harbor Freight. I am tempted to get the Harbor Freight because on paper the specs are better, it's cheaper, and they can't gently caress up something as simple as a drill, right?? My advice is to just save up a little more and get something cordless. Cordless is way nicer for most people for most situations, even if you are near an outlet. Something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-1-4-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-2462-22/204316313
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Jan 13, 2015 16:31
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Picked up a FLIR e4 camera this weekend. I love it, it is already saving me money finding the horribly done insulation job and other issues from the morons who built this place. Edit : Hey look I found another hole busted in the OSB on the exterior wall. Might as well have had a door open in my main bedroom this whole time .. that makes 4 holes found in the wall. powderific posted:My advice is to just save up a little more and get something cordless. Cordless is way nicer for most people for most situations, even if you are near an outlet. Something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-1-4-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-2462-22/204316313 Pick up a 10% off @ Lowes coupon from eBay, it can be used at home depot as well. Costs like $2, will save you more than that! mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 18:53
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So far in my search I think I have decided I can go with a Porter Cable 1/4" corded impact driver, a lot of reviews say "just got it, it's incredible" but a lot of reviews say the motor starts smoking sometime between one hour to 91-days after opening the box. . . The harbor freight option is a $45 1/2" corded electric impact, but I'm pretty sure that if it doesn't set my house on fire it will be great for removing lug-nuts and snapping the heads off every screw I try. The $129 M12 looks like probably the best impact driver. . . But for $139 I can get an 18V Ridgid X4. I don't know if Ridgid's quality is acceptable (it's probbably acceptable for my usage) but it is 18V vs 12V, and the home depot specs list the M1s at 1000ft-lbs and the Ridgid at 1750ft-lbs. But I'm also very tempted to go with a Black & Decker solution (stop laughing. . .) I know it would be lower quality, but I already own a Black & Decker 20V Lithium-ion product- a weed eater. I have a "20V Max Lithium 4.0AH 2x" battery, and a charger, and I could cheap out and buy a bare impact driver. . . What are the odds my batter would be compatiable with a DeWalt branded impact driver? I am extremely tempted to get two batteries, two drills, $105, not a harbor freight brand. . .
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Jan 13, 2015 19:35
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Crotch Fruit posted:So far in my search I think I have decided I can go with a Porter Cable 1/4" corded impact driver, a lot of reviews say "just got it, it's incredible" but a lot of reviews say the motor starts smoking sometime between one hour to 91-days after opening the box. . . The harbor freight option is a $45 1/2" corded electric impact, but I'm pretty sure that if it doesn't set my house on fire it will be great for removing lug-nuts and snapping the heads off every screw I try. Here's the thing with tools. Buy it right the first time. Don't buy brands that have stipulations to tell people to "stop laughing", because they have earned that reputation for a reason. My uncle has several Ridgid tools and he likes them, but he also has a lot of Dewalt and loves those. Corded is great if you really need the extra power, but obviously you sacrifice that power for having to drag a cord around .. that's a big pain in the butt and very much limits the places you're going to use it. I love my Makita impacts (have two of them with a standard drill), and they have taken a serious beating. Milwaukee makes some fantastic stuff, my super sawzall is awesome and has taken a beating as well. I stopped buying anything from Harbor Freight. Sometimes you can get a good deal, but frequently it's cheap for a darn good reason. If you will be using this much I wouldn't trust anything from HF that contains a motor, etc. Edit : The gist of it is, buy it right the first time so you don't need to buy it again and again down the road. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 19:42
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mAlfunkti0n posted:Picked up a FLIR e4 camera this weekend. I love it, it is already saving me money finding the horribly done insulation job and other issues from the morons who built this place. I just bought one of these and, while I have no idea how it compares to a dedicated unit since I've never used one, it's pretty awesome for $200: http://obtain.thermal.com/product-p/lw-aaa.htm
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Jan 13, 2015 19:43
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powderific posted:I just bought one of these and, while I have no idea how it compares to a dedicated unit since I've never used one, it's pretty awesome for $200: http://obtain.thermal.com/product-p/lw-aaa.htm I had tried out the FLIR One for my iPhone and wasn't impressed with it because the temperature accuracy was horrible. However, a buddy of mine just picked up a Seek and loves it as well. The e4 came with an 80x60 resolution (or something similar) but has the same hardware as the e8 and with a simple software mod you get the full 320x240 resolution. Point being, these things are awesome and allow us to see things as never before. I liked the stand alone one for my uses, but I do wish it were quite a bit cheaper.
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Jan 13, 2015 19:46
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mAlfunkti0n posted:Don't buy brands that have stipulations to tell people to "stop laughing" I believe Black & Decker is a capable brand for weekend warriors, I'm sure a contractor could destroy B&Ds best drill in a day or less, but I know full well I'm not a contractor. I add the stipulation purely because the original recommendation was for a Milwaukee (high end) and B&D is a known low-end weekend warrior brand, which might suite me better than a high end Milwaukee. mAlfunkti0n posted:The gist of it is, buy it right the first time so you don't need to buy it again and again down the road. If anything, I think the batteries will "expire" long before I wear out any other part of the tools. I believe with any brand of cordless drill I would need to buy again sometime down the road. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 19:53
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Crotch Fruit posted:I believe Black & Decker is a capable brand for weekend warriors, I'm sure a contractor could destroy B&Ds best drill in a day or less, but I know full well I'm not a contractor. I add the stipulation purely because the original recommendation was for a Milwaukee (high end) and B&D is a known low-end weekend warrior brand, which might suite me better than a high end Milwaukee. It really all depends on what you need the tool to do. A weekend warrior could destroy tools easily if the application requires something more powerful. Match the tool to the use and you will be happy. Batteries are a consumable and should outlast the tool if things are built properly.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:01
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mAlfunkti0n posted:It really all depends on what you need the tool to do. A weekend warrior could destroy tools easily if the application requires something more powerful. Match the tool to the use and you will be happy. Batteries are a consumable and should outlast the tool if things are built properly. Yeah, I only want to drive screws into wood. . . I really don't care for working on cars ($$$, greasy, too cold/hot, etc) so I will probably never need to combat rusted on bolts or other stuff requiring lots of torque. But I am also up for considering DeWalt 20V drills if my B&D brand battery and charger are compatible.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:05
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Crotch Fruit posted:Yeah, I only want to drive screws into wood. . . I really don't care for working on cars ($$$, greasy, too cold/hot, etc) so I will probably never need to combat rusted on bolts or other stuff requiring lots of torque. But I am also up for considering DeWalt 20V drills if my B&D brand battery and charger are compatible. I use mine for building, etc as well, I rarely work on cars. I would just consider what the impact is doing and go from there. If you feel comfortable with it then that's all you need. I've just dealt with many crummy tools in the past and just pony up for the good ones now days.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:11
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powderific posted:I just bought one of these and, while I have no idea how it compares to a dedicated unit since I've never used one, it's pretty awesome for $200: http://obtain.thermal.com/product-p/lw-aaa.htm This Flir E6 and Seek Thermal comparison is pretty good (although the latest Seek app update improves the Seek image a bit). Basically, it's garbage in comparison to the professional tools but of course the professional tools are priced well above their value to a DIY'er. Crotch Fruit posted:Yeah, I only want to drive screws into wood On the other hand, you're apparently really bad at it, so maybe you do need something high power... IMO, a "weekend warrior" is probably best served by a 12v cordless line. You generally don't need long battery life, and the rare cases you need more power, a corded tool will suffice, while the compact and light weight tools are much more convenient, and can fit into small areas where larger tools won't fit.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:42
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