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Slavvy posted:For the cam chain you'll need a cam chain breaker/riveter. They are't expensive. You'll also need to grind/lap the valves into the head. People recommend you should get a professional shop to grind them but, honestly, lapping them in by hand will work just as well for what you're doing and is very cheap and easy (just time-consuming). Great info-- thanks! Bottom end has 70k on it so I think it might be worth looking at, but I've never torn down an engine to replace internals, only gaskets. Sounds like something best left to a machine shop altogether, no? Should I find a GSXR1100 motor and swap over my 1216 pistons?
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Jan 14, 2015 08:47
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I don't know what GSXR gearing and stuff are like, I've somehow always dodged working on/seeing one up close/hearing people talk about them. But they're six speed AFAIK, if they just bolt in my gut would tell me to do that because it's already a powerful engine with loads of grunt, gearing for suitable for a bike of a similar size (which you can skew with sprocketry) and you're making it even bigger. Also most of them here are considered too big and heavy to be 'serious' sportsbikes so they're largely owned by Old Men and babied around. If it's like that over there, getting a mint engine should be a piece of cake. The bikes themselves also have next to no resale value. The engines also look pretty swish. 
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Jan 14, 2015 09:03
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nitrogen posted:It's a fun project, sure, but since i'm new to a lot of this, it makes me a bit nervous too. Since you are/seem more experienced, the craigslist special bikes are probably more up your alley. I'm certainly learning a whole lot, though. I'm glad all this is happening during the winter where its been pretty cold and not conducive to riding at least. You are kinda/sorta in my area. If you need assistance, just let me know.
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Jan 14, 2015 09:07
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Great info-- thanks! There is one guy that goes nuts over the Bandits. Take a look at Dale Walker's HoleShot: http://www.holeshot.com/bandit/ He'll get you parts that will make a reliable and powerful Bandit.
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Jan 14, 2015 09:12
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Slavvy posted:I don't know what GSXR gearing and stuff are like, I've somehow always dodged working on/seeing one up close/hearing people talk about them. But they're six speed AFAIK, if they just bolt in my gut would tell me to do that because it's already a powerful engine with loads of grunt, gearing for suitable for a bike of a similar size (which you can skew with sprocketry) and you're making it even bigger. Also most of them here are considered too big and heavy to be 'serious' sportsbikes so they're largely owned by Old Men and babied around. If it's like that over there, getting a mint engine should be a piece of cake. The bikes themselves also have next to no resale value. Yeah, they're a direct swap, as are the internals. If I am to do this project, I'd need to swap in a GSXR 1100 clutch basket, so I figure I might as well just get an entire GSXR1100 engine, rebuild it on a stand, and bench test everything.  Skreemer posted:There is one guy that goes nuts over the Bandits. Take a look at Dale Walker's HoleShot: http://www.holeshot.com/bandit/ My Bandit already has every part he carries. My bike is a Dale Walker Special.  That's the reason I want to swap over everything to a new engine. I'm just sick of carbs and haven't found any newer bikes I've really found interesting so I'd rather modernize my oil burner and learn something fun in the process, haha. Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jan 14, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 18:04
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Yeah, they're a direct swap, as are the internals. If I am to do this project, I'd need to swap in a GSXR 1100 clutch basket, so I figure I might as well just get an entire GSXR1100 engine, rebuild it on a stand, and bench test everything. Could you just get B1250 throttle bodies and ECU?
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Jan 15, 2015 14:51
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1973 Honda CL350 - about 3900 miles on it. The bike has performed almost flawlessly over the last 3000 miles I put on it. Just the other day I noticed some hesitation between 7-9000 rpm. It's like the motor is struggling to keep accelerating, like it's not getting enough gas or air. What's the best way to troubleshoot this?
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Jan 15, 2015 17:08
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Great info-- thanks! How much money have you spent on your bandit?
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Jan 15, 2015 17:57
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Astonishing Wang posted:1973 Honda CL350 - about 3900 miles on it. The bike has performed almost flawlessly over the last 3000 miles I put on it. Just the other day I noticed some hesitation between 7-9000 rpm. It's like the motor is struggling to keep accelerating, like it's not getting enough gas or air. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? Astonishing Wang posted:1973 Honda CL350 - about 3900 miles on it. The bike has performed almost flawlessly over the last 3000 miles I put on it. Just the other day I noticed some hesitation between 7-9000 rpm. It's like the motor is struggling to keep accelerating, like it's not getting enough gas or air. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? Easiest thing to do right off the bat is check your spark plugs. How's the electrode look? Is it nearly gone? What color are they? They should be light grey. If they are too white your carbs are adjusted to lean. Are they black? Your carbs are adjusted to rich. Spark plugs look fine, take your carbs apart. Check the Jets. Are they clogged up? Are all the proper jet working as intended? How's the float chamber?
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Jan 15, 2015 18:09
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n8r posted:How much money have you spent on your bandit? $1200 for the bike, $800 for carb parts (full rebuild) + gas analysis tune, $400 on tires, few hundred on Brembo MC and brakes. Not much by any means, honestly. edti: I've spent an ungodly amount replacing wear and tear items on my car with my own labor, so motorcycles are a hilariously cheap joke in comparison babyeatingpsychopath posted:Could you just get B1250 throttle bodies and ECU? I don't believe they fit. article online posted:Tighter spacing between the two pairs of cylinders makes the cylinder head and the throttle bodies 20mm narrower... People online are saying that the K3 GSXR600 throttle bodies are almost a direct swap. The guy in the previous post's links ended up using a Hayabusa ECU and tapping the valve cover for a cam position sensor and using the gear position sensor to assist in the map, but he ended up having enrichment issues from his last posts before disappearing into oblivion. I think a small DIY MS box would solve a lot of issues that arise when mixing and matching parts like this, including using the spark signal to control fueling as well. edit: apparently gsx650 bodies fit as well and match Katana 750 motors, which are pretty drat near identical to B12s. Hmmm... Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jan 15, 2015 |
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Jan 15, 2015 18:33
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Having some starting issues with my ex250, again. I can get the bike to crank but it wont run for longer than half a second before it dies and was running fine the day before, the air filter is still pretty clean from when I put in a k&n filter in there about 6,000 miles ago. I'm planning on ripping the carbs out and giving them a good cleaning. Is there anything else that I should be looking for?
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Jan 15, 2015 23:15
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What does it do, sort of choke and die? Just completely turn off the way it does when you try to ride off with the kickstand down? What happens when you get on the throttle? What happens when you crank it with the throttle open?
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Jan 16, 2015 00:10
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M42 posted:What does it do, sort of choke and die? Just completely turn off the way it does when you try to ride off with the kickstand down? What happens when you get on the throttle? What happens when you crank it with the throttle open? Yup, just chokes and dies. If I get on the throttle I can usually get it to rev up a little bit but it runs very rough and will just choke and die again. It doesn't cut like if you turn off the kill switch or drop the kickstand, choking is the best way to describe it I think.
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Jan 16, 2015 00:25
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Does it smell rich? You may be dumping a ton of fuel into your engine. I'd check vacuum lines, choke seals, and petcock before tearing into the carbs. Even if your float needles prevent excess fuel from entering the engine, this can be worsened by any vacuum issues up the line.
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Jan 16, 2015 00:36
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I think I just found out. the spark plug for the left cylinder is broken, now I gotta find out how to get the broken piece out of the cylinder. Any ideas? http://imgur.com/ltFYnxe
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Jan 16, 2015 00:55
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Ohhh, poo poo. Yeah you had a dead cylinder like me then. What brand plug is that? Champion? I'm honestly not sure how to get it out. Try making a thread on ninjette.
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Jan 16, 2015 01:00
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If they're Champions, it likely melted off. I don't think there's anything you can do. Same thing happened to my friend, just got a new (non-champion) plug and kept riding.
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Jan 16, 2015 01:06
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drat. That's lovely. I'd stick one of those magnets on a bendy stick down the spark plug hole to pick it up. There's a chance it may have escaped already but I'd definitely try and see if it's willing to come out.
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Jan 16, 2015 01:08
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Armchair Calvinist posted:If they're Champions, it likely melted off. I don't think there's anything you can do. Same thing happened to my friend, just got a new (non-champion) plug and kept riding. This is what I'm betting on. but like Bugdrvr said, can't hurt to stick a mag on a stick in there. set the piston all the way at the bottom and you might be able to sweep the side of the bore.
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Jan 16, 2015 01:19
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And if there's anything small and nonmagnetic inside, you might be able to fish it out with a blob of sticky grease on the end of a stick. I've never tried that in a cylinder before, but I've used it in other situations and it works okay.
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Jan 16, 2015 01:31
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Thank you all for the ideas, I will try the magnet trick. And they were not champions, I got the NGK plugs that the wiki recommends.
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Jan 16, 2015 01:40
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High five freak-ninja-sparkplug-accident buddy 
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Jan 16, 2015 02:17
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Ninjette question: My front tire is from 2012, and has maybe 4k miles on it (3k from me, 1k from previous owner). It is the stock IRC tire. There is plenty of tread left, but the sidewall is cracking, as shown in the pictures below. Is this normal or dangerous? My previous front tire was also IRC, from 2009, had 6K+ miles, but I do not remember seeing anything similar.   for reference, here is the rest of the bike 
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Jan 16, 2015 05:26
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Normal for an old tire, yes it's somewhat dangerous, and if there's one thing you don't want to cheap out on it's your tires. I say replace it.
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Jan 16, 2015 05:29
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Change that poo poo.
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Jan 16, 2015 05:30
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So out of curiosity, what causes a tire that's at most 3 years old to have that much cracking?
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Jan 16, 2015 05:31
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Collateral Damage posted:So out of curiosity, what causes a tire that's at most 3 years old to have that much cracking? Three years, it sounds. Also, what's the date code? Time on a shelf still counts.
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Jan 16, 2015 05:40
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Collateral Damage posted:So out of curiosity, what causes a tire that's at most 3 years old to have that much cracking? Heat, sunlight, too low of a PSI allowing too much flex? Could be a lot of things. Front tires are ~$100 investment into making sure you don't die owing to something preventable.
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Jan 16, 2015 05:41
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Yeah, I'll change it. Thanks goons!
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Jan 16, 2015 06:51
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Collateral Damage posted:So out of curiosity, what causes a tire that's at most 3 years old to have that much cracking?
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Jan 16, 2015 09:20
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Climate, age, manufacturing. I once saw some Dunlops that were cracked that bad with like a 2 year old manufacture date.
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Jan 16, 2015 16:18
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Some of the race tires crack like that from the factory. No idea. The best tire I've seen recently was a wonderful gixxer750 from like, 89 or so, with tires with a 3 digit date code (Mid-95) - they felt like tupperware when you ran your finger across them.
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Jan 16, 2015 19:51
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Gs500 was great after my carb job for about a day. Now only one cylinder is firing. Spark plug is somewhat wet. Don't know what the gently caress I could have done to it, but I'm going to pull the carbs off again and look. Unless you guys have any ideas of something to look for, I'm going to take it to a shop tomorrow.
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Jan 18, 2015 19:53
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I have no idea what just happened to my bike but it freaked me the gently caress out. doing about 40, started feeling vibration like I was going over that stepped concrete (the stuff you get on the approaches to some junctions to wake drivers up - imagine corduroy with a pitch of about an inch), and had to increase throttle to maintain speed. My first thought was "oh gently caress, engine's dying" and next twenty thoughts were "oh gently caress this is the worst possible place for it to happen" - it was at the lowest point of a tunnel with no hard shoulder and blind bends. Engine death worries were assuaged when I changed down as i slowed - the engine responded to a blip with the clutch in perfectly normally, and the vibrations slowed as I did rather than with revs - however I was also slowing much harder than I'd expect with the clutch in on the flat, and the feeling was definitely that my front brakes were slightly on. As suddenly as it started it stopped, and I finished my journey without any further problems. Getting it on the stands once I got home and I can't see anything weird at all. Back wheel spins normally, no slack, no tight points in the chain (rear pads were replaced about 50 miles ago and aren't fully bedded in yet FWIW). Front wheel has a very slight tightness suggesting one of the calipers is partially seized, a problem that I've had before but which normally makes itself known rather earlier with difficulty pushing the bike around, and normally is a lot tighter than that on the stand too. There's no scoring on the disks suggesting something had stuck in them, pad wear is even all round (the seized caliper problem normally - obviously - leaves one pad more worn), buttons are all fine, head bearings and forks all feel fine too. Didn't have time before the sun set to investigate further. My impression is that the vibration was too high-frequency to be brake-related but I could be entirely wrong on that. The one thing I can't remember is if I had touched the brakes before it happened - my guess is not because the road was quiet and I normally engine-brake on the slope down in the tunnel. I *had* touched the brakes when I pulled away after this, and I think maybe they needed a bit more of a pull than normal but I could just be being oversensitive. Probably going to pop the bike to the garage to have them check things over but if any of you have felt something similar in the past and can put my mind at rest it'd be appreciated.
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Jan 18, 2015 21:16
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I was lubing my chain and noticed a small rubber ring coming out of the master link. I pulled it out because it was obviously torn, but I've never seen this before. The chain only has a couple thousand on it. Don't recall what kind of chain it is, bought and installed at shop. I lube and clean every couple hundred miles. Is this a big problem? The chain feels fine.
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Jan 18, 2015 21:27
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Schroeder91 posted:I was lubing my chain and noticed a small rubber ring coming out of the master link. I pulled it out because it was obviously torn, but I've never seen this before. The chain only has a couple thousand on it. Don't recall what kind of chain it is, bought and installed at shop. I lube and clean every couple hundred miles. Is this a big problem? The chain feels fine. The lubricant in that link will leak out, and it will begin to tighten up now. Hopefully others will weigh in, but I think you'll probably need to replace the chain soon. I don't have any idea why that would happen so soon.
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Jan 18, 2015 21:34
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If none of the other O rings are bad, just replace the master link with another O ring type. I'd inspect the master link pins for wear, high amounts: replace the entire chain. Theres O ring type, and X ring too. E: Never hurts to carry a spare masterlink either, I've broken a couple retainer clips. 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jan 18, 2015 |
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Jan 18, 2015 22:04
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The first time that happened to me was when I was changing a clutch cable. I was wondering where the hell the pile of half and quarter o-rings came from. I'd definitely try a new master if the chain is newer. Got a question. 40k too many miles for an otherwise squeaky clean R6? I am newly into buying an '05 R6 due to it's ugly roundy old school looks coupled with modern underpinnings. There are plenty out there, it's just that most are shagged and/or have a bit of mileage on them.
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Jan 19, 2015 01:23
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40k miles isn't too many at all for a modern(ish) bike. My ride is an '97 zx6e and I've just ticked over 140,000kms (89,000 miles) and it isn't even missing a beat. Runs perfectly. As long as they're looked after they'll go forever.
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Jan 19, 2015 01:36
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stick it in second gear. if it jumps, run the gently caress away. If it has maintenance history, don't worry too much. no history? run the gently caress away.
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Jan 19, 2015 01:48
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