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Asbrandt posted:If it's a full-size SNES of the 1CHIP variety and not a SNES Mini, then the full range of options are available to you without any modding at all. Great, thanks. Any idea how to tell what the good ones are? I'm fine with paying a little bit for quality, I just don't want to end up wasting money on something that barely works.
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Jan 19, 2015 02:23
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So I recently made the unpleasant discovery that my PSP-3000 battery has gone bad. I see a ton of cheap replacements on Amazon/eBay, but is there a specific brand I should be looking for (or avoiding)? None of these are particularly expensive, but quality-wise, I'd like to get the closest thing to a Sony battery that I can.
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Jan 19, 2015 02:29
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DoubleDonut posted:Great, thanks. Any idea how to tell what the good ones are? I'm fine with paying a little bit for quality, I just don't want to end up wasting money on something that barely works. Unfortunately aside from the official Nintendo branded and the Monster branded ones, which I believe sell for $40 or more (Official ones from Japanese stores) on Ebay, there's no real way to tell without someone who's had the same specific cable tell you if it suffers issues or not. Theres a handmade one from a "gamekingno1" in Sweden for $20 that looks pretty solid if you want to give that a try and don't mind waiting for international shipping. (I apologize if it sells before you get to it.)
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Jan 19, 2015 02:32
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RumbleFish posted:So I recently made the unpleasant discovery that my PSP-3000 battery has gone bad. I see a ton of cheap replacements on Amazon/eBay, but is there a specific brand I should be looking for (or avoiding)? None of these are particularly expensive, but quality-wise, I'd like to get the closest thing to a Sony battery that I can. PSP batteries are poo poo to say the least. Before you go down this route I suggest trying to fuzz the circuit inside the battery to revive it. A few options are listed in this post http://forums.dashhacks.com/psp-tutorials-guides/266155-repairing-broken-dead-psp-battery.html
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Jan 19, 2015 02:49
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flyboi posted:PSP batteries are poo poo to say the least. Agreed don't get cheap ones cos they wont work right. Get real Sony ones if possible.
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Jan 19, 2015 03:28
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DoubleDonut posted:What are my options for video quality if I've got a 1CHIP SNES without getting into any in-depth modding? I'm not looking for any ways to electrocute myself, I just want to know if I can do anything without spending tons of money or learning how to actually solder things. I'm using a CRT that does have an RF port, if that matters. I'll sort of echo what everyone said, but also try to sum up and clarify things: A. The 1CHIP SNES is most commonly found in the second model SNES. It might be in the first, but I haven't heard much about that. B. If you have a first model SNES, go to C. B2. If you have a second model SNES (the Mini) then your only easy option for video quality is a composite AV cable. You can go generic, or look on Ebay for a Nintendo original one. This is because the SNES Mini isn't wired for S-Video or RGB output through the AV port. You can pay a goon to have this functionality restored, though. C. If you have a first model SNES, you can use composite video (as above), or S-Video (with a cable like this) (or the one Asbrandt linked to). You can also use a combination of a SCART cable and a SCART RGB-to-component transcoder, if your TV is a regular CRT with component/YPbPr plugs. This is pricey, but it should give you very nice quality.
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Jan 19, 2015 03:38
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So I'll get right down to it, I need someone to help fix an arcade PCB for me. It's a Dungeon Magic board (Taito F3 hardware). Basically in the middle of testing it out yesterday on my supergun, my SG stopped working due to the power supply going out. The board itself was kinda iffy to start out with, severe audio problems potentially due to the op amp on it. Whether it blew out my PS due to being faulty or me doing some idiotic during troubleshooting, it's hard to say. Either way, I don't trust myself or my setup with this board right now.
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Jan 19, 2015 03:41
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Kthulhu5000 posted:and a SCART RGB-to-component transcoder, if your TV is a regular CRT with component/YPbPr plugs. I want to throw in that I've personally had terrible luck with that particular converter, and had to return two different ones. Even though they have adjustable pots the colors never looked right. I got this more expensive one and it was perfect out of the box. YMMV though!
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Jan 19, 2015 04:10
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Alright, thanks for the help; I think I know what I'm going to do now. For what it's worth, I have a first model SNES, but with a UN31... serial number, which according to the OP means it's a 1CHIP. (I also found my N64 composite cable, so I'll be using that until I get my hands on a good s-video cable.)
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Jan 19, 2015 04:19
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Now this is a neat project. One of the animators for Robot Chicken re-jiggered a Power Glove so the keypad on it is bluetooth-capable so he can send commands to his computer remotely (so he wouldn't have to keep moving back and forth between the stage where he manipulates the stop-motion figurines, and the computer itself). http://www.playerattack.com/news/2015/01/16/nintendo-power-glove-crucial-to-robot-chicken/
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Jan 19, 2015 04:30
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d0s posted:I want to throw in that I've personally had terrible luck with that particular converter, and had to return two different ones. Even though they have adjustable pots the colors never looked right. I got this more expensive one and it was perfect out of the box. YMMV though! Admittedly, I got mine used off of Ebay, so maybe the previous owner did all the pain of adjusting pots and whatnot. It's not necessarily cheap, regardless, but if you already have a regular CRT (and have component inputs), then it's a good solution. DoubleDonut posted:Alright, thanks for the help; I think I know what I'm going to do now. For what it's worth, I have a first model SNES, but with a UN31... serial number, which according to the OP means it's a 1CHIP. The thing to keep in mind about the 1CHIP and the like is that its "better video quality" is really only a factor if you're using the system's RGB (red/green/blue) output on an RGB-capable monitor. This usually means a PVM (professional video monitor) or BVM (broadcast video monitor) like this. Essentially big old CRT-based professional displays used where high quality display accuracy was desired, like in video editing, broadcast monitoring, and medical displays (the one in the video is an ex-medical display). Your N64 cable should do just fine, and should give you a bump in video quality. RF is the worst thing because it combines the audio and video data together in one signal that degrades both in order to make it work.
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Jan 19, 2015 04:58
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iastudent posted:So I'll get right down to it, I need someone to help fix an arcade PCB for me. It's a Dungeon Magic board (Taito F3 hardware). Basically in the middle of testing it out yesterday on my supergun, my SG stopped working due to the power supply going out. The board itself was kinda iffy to start out with, severe audio problems potentially due to the op amp on it. Whether it blew out my PS due to being faulty or me doing some idiotic during troubleshooting, it's hard to say. Either way, I don't trust myself or my setup with this board right now. 1) Any visual damage or defects? Any strange smells? 2) Any sight of damaged/burnt traces on the PCB? 3) Is the solder-side alright, no pins accidentally in contact with each other? This messed up a Namco board I have, had to bend the two op-amp pins away from each other and suddenly the audio worked flawlessly again. If it's just caps of the kind that aren't tiny pain in the rear end surfacemounts this will be a good (and easier than you think) time to get a $20 soldering station and get practice done.
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Jan 19, 2015 06:16
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So after years and years of putting it off, and having my first  xbox die of it (I literally said "it looks like an alien died here and its acid blood wrecked the pcb" not knowing what the clock cap issue was at the time) I finally cracked open my original xbox again tonight to remove the clock capacitor. I had tried to look twice before, couldn't find it, then said gently caress it and buttoned it back up. Anyway fast forward to tonight, when for whatever reason I decided to give it a whirl again. Much to my surprise my xbox was a 1.6 which changed everything.Word on the street is the 1.6 capacitors were made differently or from a different factor/material or something and are of way higher quality. Then there's about half of the people that say cut it anyway, and half say no leave it it'll mess up 1.6s if you remove it, if you do remove it replace it. I'm not sure who to believe here, but for the record it does look like it's ok to me. I took some phone pics and with the exception of the flash making it look dusty as gently caress, I for one think it looks cool:   So: 1. Is this the clock capacitor on a 1.6? (I did some random googling/youtubing) 2. Leave it alone? Cut it? Replace it? -- For now I'm leaving it just because it looks fine
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Jan 19, 2015 06:16
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My understanding is that the 1.6 oXbox doesn't have the infamous problem at all, but ofcourse you give up the ability to run Smilebit games (and possibly others) in Progressive Scan in exchange due to the video chip revision being incompatible.
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Jan 19, 2015 06:25
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Excellent that works for me, thanks! In other news I just had my receiver yanked out redoing cables and stuff to accommodate my xbox's component cables with my Wii's. I love that feeling of pushing that poo poo back, testing it out, and having everything work right the first time. My xbox is now "Video 1/VCR + Tape" while my Wii is of course "Video 2". "Video 3" is my 4-port component switchbox with systems/record player/LD (yes I said component) "DVD" is my blu-ray player while "Video 1" with my TV set to another sourse is also my VCR. . I know I didn't have to say all of that, but after putting hours of blood and sweat into the setup I felt I had to haha.
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Jan 19, 2015 06:34
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Heh, I'm one of those crazies who avoids switches for exactly those reasons, always a challenge to add anything to it, so I just make it as easy as possible to switch which one system is hooked up.
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Jan 19, 2015 06:42
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Kthulhu5000 posted:but if you already have a regular CRT (and have component inputs), then it's a good solution. Agreed, a SCART->component box is one of the best investments you can make if you have a good CRT with component in
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Jan 19, 2015 07:49
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Ok employing some cheating (password generator to give me more E-tanks and the "Super Jump" trick) Rockman 3 is beat. Rockman 4 is next, which means I'm halfway done with the Famicom Rockman games. I look forward to charged shots.
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Jan 19, 2015 10:35
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Tyson Tomko posted:So after years and years of putting it off, and having my first Thanks for bringing this up again and reminding me. I'm going to crack open my xbox on the weekend and take a look.
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Jan 19, 2015 10:52
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iastudent posted:So I'll get right down to it, I need someone to help fix an arcade PCB for me. It's a Dungeon Magic board (Taito F3 hardware). Basically in the middle of testing it out yesterday on my supergun, my SG stopped working due to the power supply going out. The board itself was kinda iffy to start out with, severe audio problems potentially due to the op amp on it. Whether it blew out my PS due to being faulty or me doing some idiotic during troubleshooting, it's hard to say. Either way, I don't trust myself or my setup with this board right now. Hopefully you just blew a fuse or something in your supergun, otherwise you're in for some rebuilding.
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Jan 19, 2015 13:20
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What's this about the original Xbox clock cap and different revisions? Is there a guide to fix/replace the clock cap? And how do I identify the model version? I have two Xboxes, one that is definitively older than the other since it came with the Duke controller and the DVD drive has issues opening and reading stuff (which is why I ended getting another one, since it was cheap), while the second one came with the smaller controller and it's in much better condition visually and operationally.
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Jan 19, 2015 13:37
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Pinguliten posted:Hopefully you just blew a fuse or something in your supergun, otherwise you're in for some rebuilding. The power supply definitely burnt out. I'm having a new one sent to me.
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Jan 19, 2015 13:58
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Saoshyant posted:the DVD drive has issues opening and reading stuff (which is why I ended getting another one, since it was cheap), while the second one came with the smaller controller and it's in much better condition visually and operationally. This happened with my first Xbox until one day it would not open at all and wouldn't display anything but a black screen. The one I replaced it with is slowly doing the same thing, the DVD drive has gotten more and more fickle over time and it'll probably see the same fate eventually. If it's the capacitor that's at fault, it'd be a relief to know, though I only really use it for the GTA series these days.
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Jan 19, 2015 14:17
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Asbrandt posted:My understanding is that the 1.6 oXbox doesn't have the infamous problem at all, but ofcourse you give up the ability to run Smilebit games (and possibly others) in Progressive Scan in exchange due to the video chip revision being incompatible. I also remember the later XBox 1s having crappier picture quality; my guess is due to the encoder (I think Focus Enhancements were the good ones, and something beginning with an "X"; maybe Xcalibur or something, was the other one). Either way, I directly compared a 1.1 and 1.6 XBox and the 1.1 visually looked way better. Kthulhu5000 posted:The thing to keep in mind about the 1CHIP and the like is that its "better video quality" is really only a factor if you're using the system's RGB This definitely is not the case; I notice a huge improvement in the 1CHIP's s-video when compared to a non-1chip. It does not have to be over RGB to see the improvement. If his serial number is UN31 he most definitely does have a 1chip model 1. Congrats! 
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Jan 19, 2015 16:11
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:I also remember the later XBox 1s having crappier picture quality; my guess is due to the encoder (I think Focus Enhancements were the good ones, and something beginning with an "X"; maybe Xcalibur or something, was the other one). Either way, I directly compared a 1.1 and 1.6 XBox and the 1.1 visually looked way better. According to this page, Conextant made the graphics chip in the oldest models, Focus in 1.4 and 1.5, and Xcalibur in the 1.6
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Jan 19, 2015 17:53
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univbee posted:Now this is a neat project. This is a pro-click. I bet that poo poo makes his job like 500% more efficient too.
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Jan 19, 2015 17:58
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Went digging through stuff and found these Book Off pictures I took in March of 2006 in Hokkaido. Now I'm sad.        EDIT actually this one is from Geo I'm pretty sure. 
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Jan 19, 2015 19:25
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They have since forever wrapped their poo poo before putting sticky price tags on them and the rest of the world has not yet learned. gently caress the rest of the world for that. Prices have gone up a good bit since then.
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Jan 19, 2015 19:32
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univbee posted:Went digging through stuff and found these Book Off pictures I took in March of 2006 in Hokkaido. Now I'm sad. This seems like a good opportunity to ask about cool retro game things to see while in Japan. I'm visiting on vacation with the wife this summer as a sort of last hurrah before children and figure I may as well take some time out to go check out a Book Off or a Super Potato or something. Does anyone have any recommendations for cool things to see, stores to visit or arcades to spend money at?
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Jan 19, 2015 20:06
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JumbocactuarX27 posted:This seems like a good opportunity to ask about cool retro game things to see while in Japan. I'm visiting on vacation with the wife this summer as a sort of last hurrah before children and figure I may as well take some time out to go check out a Book Off or a Super Potato or something. Nationwide you can check out Book Off and Geo, for more specifics we'll have to know more about where exactly you'll be in Japan.
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Jan 19, 2015 20:07
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JumbocactuarX27 posted:This seems like a good opportunity to ask about cool retro game things to see while in Japan. I'm visiting on vacation with the wife this summer as a sort of last hurrah before children and figure I may as well take some time out to go check out a Book Off or a Super Potato or something. Super Potato is where you go when you want something specific. Book Off is where you go when you want to just load up a shopping cart full of carts and walk out with spending less than $100.
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Jan 19, 2015 20:50
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univbee posted:Nationwide you can check out Book Off and Geo, for more specifics we'll have to know more about where exactly you'll be in Japan. I'm staying with a friend in their Tokyo apartment, but we'll be traveling around a bit. We're still building our itinerary so anything neat in Japan is fair game. Definitely spending time in Tokyo and Osaka though. Random Stranger posted:Super Potato is where you go when you want something specific. Book Off is where you go when you want to just load up a shopping cart full of carts and walk out with spending less than $100. Book Off is dangerous. Got it.
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Jan 19, 2015 21:22
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JumbocactuarX27 posted:I'm staying with a friend in their Tokyo apartment, but we'll be traveling around a bit. We're still building our itinerary so anything neat in Japan is fair game. Definitely spending time in Tokyo and Osaka though. It's also worth noting that Super Potato is cool to go to for a, "wow look at all this cool poo poo they have," but you will almost assuredly NOT find a killer deal there or anything.
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Jan 19, 2015 21:39
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The_Frag_Man posted:Thanks for bringing this up again and reminding me. I'm going to crack open my xbox on the weekend and take a look. Saoshyant posted:What's this about the original Xbox clock cap and different revisions? Is there a guide to fix/replace the clock cap? And how do I identify the model version? I have two Xboxes, one that is definitively older than the other since it came with the Duke controller and the DVD drive has issues opening and reading stuff (which is why I ended getting another one, since it was cheap), while the second one came with the smaller controller and it's in much better condition visually and operationally. This is the only thread I have in my bookmarks on the subject I'm not sure how the placement of this capacitor changes from revision to revision, unfortunately. Cubey posted:This happened with my first Xbox until one day it would not open at all and wouldn't display anything but a black screen. The one I replaced it with is slowly doing the same thing, the DVD drive has gotten more and more fickle over time and it'll probably see the same fate eventually. If it's the capacitor that's at fault, it'd be a relief to know, though I only really use it for the GTA series these days. If memory serves, if you get the right bios setup in addition to the usual softmod you can run games from HDD (the Startech SATA to IDE should work fine) and run the system without the optical drive in the system entirely, removing any future worries about it. However, the infamous capacitor has nothing to do with the optical drive whatsoever, it's purely a power supply for the real time clock circuit that Microsoft cheaped out on until the 1.6 revision.
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Jan 19, 2015 22:20
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Heads up for anyone who wants to read more old dev interviews: the guy behind shmuplations just started a Patreon in an attempt to fund a regular update schedule. He's mostly focused on shmup-related material in the past but there's already all sorts of stuff on his site, and he has a big catalogue of material that he's letting people pick from/vote on: http://shmuplations.com/patreonlist/ The patreon is here: https://www.patreon.com/shmuplations
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Jan 19, 2015 23:17
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BECAUSE I COULD, AND THUS DID: That's simultaneous four display Super Mario World, yo. That's rocking like a gangsta rapper circa 1992! 1. My main PVM, the white 20M2MDU on the left, is receiving the original composite signal from my SNES Mini. 2. The signal is then run out to my Sony PVM-8041Q above, which both receives and displays the signal, and passes it over to the Panasonic BT-S901Y to its left. 3. The Panasonic, in turn, displays the signal and passes it over to my bog standard SD Trinitron TV through it front input. It's actually kind of useful for comparing video quality. Surprisingly (or maybe not), the Panasonic BT-S901Y has better quality than the Sony PVM-8041Q I recently acquired. This is perhaps due to the 8041Q having had a much harsher service life (complete with some rather faint Dish TV burn-in on certain screens). Anyhow, just goofing off with the video output capabilities of the displays I've got...
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Jan 20, 2015 05:23
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I just skipped nearly 4k posts in this thread (i shamefully haven't kept up after discovering the 3ds, but I plan to remedy that), so forgive me if its been posted, but is anyone going to the Midwest gaming classic this year? I was there last year, I'll be there again this year.There weren't THAT many Streetpasses to get last year, but who knows.
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Jan 20, 2015 05:40
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Kthulhu5000 posted:BECAUSE I COULD, AND THUS DID: I've always wanted to do this with my monitors! They're just so drat heavy I never bothered. Very cool. 
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Jan 20, 2015 17:31
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univbee posted:Went digging through stuff and found these Book Off pictures I took in March of 2006 in Hokkaido. Now I'm sad. So what does a hyphen mean in Japanese pricing? Because 350 yen could mean like $3.50, but if there's another zero behind that hyphen then it's $35, which is about what a Dreamcast is worth at the moment. Two zeroes would just be ridiculous, like $350. VV Okay well that's just crazy. There's no way retro consoles or games would ever be that cheap in the US in any kind of sale. If that ever happened there'd be like a handful of guys who'd show up and buy the entire lot to try and flip it all. King Vidiot fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 17:36
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King Vidiot posted:So what does a hyphen mean in Japanese pricing? Because 350 yen could mean like $3.50, but if there's another zero behind that hyphen then it's $35, which is about what a Dreamcast is worth at the moment. Two zeroes would just be ridiculous, like $350. The hyphen, in this case, is just used like a period. It's 350 yen, full stop.
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